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View Poll Results: What percentage of your new live stock has caused a quarantine tank sterilization? | |||
0% - 25% |
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8 | 66.67% |
26% - 50% |
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1 | 8.33% |
51% - 75% |
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0 | 0% |
76% - 100% |
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3 | 25.00% |
Voters: 12. You may not vote on this poll |
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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 31
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What percentage of your new live stock has caused a quarantine tank sterilization?
I am new to the hobby and am doing it correctly with a quarantine tank. I am just wondering how often have people had to sterilize the QT because new live stock got sick/died. I have put some dry rock and sand, copepods and snails in the QT. I am taking this pole to get some sense of how much risk I am taking that I will have to dispose of the rock, sand, copepods and snails.
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 114
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There may well be several opinions, but my understanding and routine I use is to not have anything like sand, rock, snails, in the quarantine tank. Sand would continue to propagate things such as ich, and treatments such as copper would kill off the snails.
I go with a bare bottom with a few pieces of PVC pipe and elbows for cover for the fish. Based on what I have read, this seems to be the accepted norm. Thanks, Joe |
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#3 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 31
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Quote:
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: los angeles
Posts: 1,836
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The reason for the barebones qt is not because you have to sterilize it as you note. Most people do not run a full time qt w no fish in it. Instead they keep it dry until needed. To avoid ammonia spikes, I have a seeded sponge filter or three in my dt sump so when I need a qt, I use one sponge filter w a air pump. If you are treating your old fish, you can even take old water from dt to avoid shock. When not in use, break it down.
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#5 |
Grizzled & Cynical
![]() Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Stamford, CT
Posts: 17,319
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There are different kinds of quarantine tanks: those used for observation and those used for actual treatment. If you can swing it, I think both have their place. For example, I have a 30L setup as a more or less complete reef tank. I use this tank to QT all new inverts and to observe any new fish, and it has sand, live rock, etc., but it never sees medications. If a fish proves to be diseased, I remove it to a 20L hospital tank that is setup as needed. It is completely bare except for a few pices of 2" PVC. I keep a few bags of de-nitrate in my DT sump to use as biological filtration as needed. Nothing from the hospital tank ever goes back into either my main display or the observation tank. If a fish has had a disease in the observation tank, I then leave it fallow for 12 weeks.
I would estimate that about one in every five fish has required some kind of hospital stay and thus subsequent sterilization of the tank. Currently I have a purple tang in their for ich. I don't anticipate any further fish for a while so I may just empty it and let it just dry out. A few months ago I had a flame angel in there that died very quickly of what I now suspect may have been velvet, but I got the cupramine in there too late (and flames don't tolerate copper all that well). I sterilized with bleach after that. Last edited by ca1ore; 08/22/2013 at 08:24 PM. |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Conway, AR
Posts: 2,117
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I understood the reason to avoid sand/rock was that it made it much more difficult to get the correct levels of meds (like copper). I've started treating all new fish with copper unless it's a fish that's sensitive to copper.
__________________
DSA 155,Custom Trigger 42" sump/refugium, MP40 X2, MP 10 X 2, AI Hydra 52 X3, Apex controller, Tunze ATO Current Tank Info: DSA 155 gallon, mixed reef, SPS and wrasse dominant |
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#7 |
Registered Member.
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 472
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I "sterilize" after every use.
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 115
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I have some rock in mine. It helps the fish feel more at ease IMO.
I will run fallow if I suspect issues. You can also run real low or high salinity if you want to try and kill off something. You need to do a bit of research to determine it it is worth while doing so. Good question. |
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#9 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 890
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Quote:
R.W.
__________________
180g FOWLR "Sun bathing on the floor next to your tank is not, in any way equivalent to spending time outdoors." |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 854
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When I first set up a QT, like you I wanted a natural looking tank with rocks and sand because the only place I had for it was my living room and I wanted it to look nice. I also wanted the fish to have a natural environment. I did not treat prophylactically, just observed for 4 weeks. You can guess where this is going, after my last fish addition my tank broke out in ich. I had to remove all fish and treat with copper anyway, this time in a larger bare-bottom QT like I should have done in the first place. You can have a pretty QT for inverts/corals but for fish you want bare-bottom and treat every fish for ich with cupramine or tank transfer (IMO).
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Current tank: 125 Gallon Mixed Reef set up February 2012 |
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 642
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I would say that it more depends on the type of fish you purchase. Tangs are just more prone to have ich than say a madarin.
I would though, stick to tried and proven methods for QT to save yourself trouble in the long run. The fish don't need all for the purpose you are trying to accomplish. The reason people advise to have a stripped down tank is because that is what we have found over the last 10, 20, 30 years...to work best. I'm not saying you have too do it this way but there is no sense in reinventing the wheel. You can do whatever you want to the wheel but it works best when round...
__________________
Work in Progress: 75g Rimless DT | 20g sump | Aquamaxx ConeS-1 | Two Tunze Turbelle 6025 Tank established 02/16/14 |
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