RO/DI set-ups? Auto shutoffs?

[60gal reef guy]

Now that I moved on to a bigger tank I'm trying to make things easier on myself. Starting with less trips to my LFS. Any good suggestions or complaints on the different set-ups? I know there's a lot out there and it's my first time running a RO/DI unit. Thanks

[Beandawg]

Set up an auto shut off or float valve, and also set yourself up a timer. I've had water on my basement floor. Like 14hrs of a 100gpd rodi "water on the floor". When are you allowed to call it a flood?

[Duvallj]

One of the best buys for a reef you'll ever make.

If you don't run a booster pump, then just a float valve is what you need.
If you run a booster pump, there is a pressure switch that will shut off the pump after the float valve is triggered. It takes a few seconds-mintue, but it will.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-5-...tem-75gpd.html
and
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/revers...oat-valve.html

I have the brs one that I linked, I like it.
Also many people like the spectra pure ones aswell.

[sn4265]

Right now I have a 33 gal Brute trashcan with a float valve in it that is directly connected to my RO/DI. I fill the can then dump in the salt and let it mix/age for a couple of days with a cheapo MaxiJet and a heater. I'm about to upgrade to a 55 gal drum that I'll put a couple of float valves in for both high and low water level in addition to a float valve. I'm planning on getting a LiterMeter for Xmas and going to setup a continuous water change system with it from the 55 gal drum. The 33 gal Brute will then become my RO/DI water storage.

[r1racer]

Originally Posted by sn4265

Right now I have a 33 gal Brute trashcan with a float valve in it that is directly connected to my RO/DI. I fill the can then dump in the salt and let it mix/age for a couple of days with a cheapo MaxiJet and a heater. I'm about to upgrade to a 55 gal drum that I'll put a couple of float valves in for both high and low water level in addition to a float valve. I'm planning on getting a LiterMeter for Xmas and going to setup a continuous water change system with it from the 55 gal drum. The 33 gal Brute will then become my RO/DI water storage.

if you are using reef salt don't store or "let it age" as the alk will precipitate.

[60gal reef guy]

Thank you everyone. Your able to "T" or "Y" of the RO unit one to a storage drum and one to the return side auto top off?

[sn4265]

Originally Posted by r1racer

if you are using reef salt don't store or "let it age" as the alk will precipitate.

Really??? Even with a powerhead in there to keep it mixed? I've always heard so long as you keep it mixed periodically you can keep water for at least a month or 2. How else is anyone running continuous water change systems if they don't have a volume of water to use for the changes?

[Sethjamto]

Originally Posted by sn4265

Really??? Even with a powerhead in there to keep it mixed? I've always heard so long as you keep it mixed periodically you can keep water for at least a month or 2. How else is anyone running continuous water change systems if they don't have a volume of water to use for the changes?

I've heard of plenty of people doing this with no issues as long as it is continually circulated and not exposed to extreme temps.

I plan on doing the same with my upcoming 300g build and a litermeter. The previous owner of the 300g had that same exact setup with a large SW storage tank in the garage, and plumbed the litermeter through the attic and down into the display tank to auto change 2g's a day. Never had a issue with the SW in the garage (and this is in extreme south Alabama summer heat too).

[r1racer]

Originally Posted by sn4265

Really??? Even with a powerhead in there to keep it mixed? I've always heard so long as you keep it mixed periodically you can keep water for at least a month or 2. How else is anyone running continuous water change systems if they don't have a volume of water to use for the changes?

If it's normal salt it's not a problem but if you have reef salt and want to keep the alk high without losing it all then don't do it.

The directions usually are different in mixing reef salt vs standard salt for this reason. I was doing this and my alk dropped from 12 to 8 and nothing but a thick brown layer of crud on the bottom of my salt bin. The water will be fine and safe to use it's just the loss of alk.

[jimmyj7090]

What you don't want to do is run your RODI directly to an ATO. The reason is that if you rely on a float valve/auto shut off on the RODI, the unit will constantly be turning on and off which causes "membrane creep" (rising TDS coming through the RO because it's not running properly/constantly).

Personally I run my RODI to a 55 gallon barrel with a float valve (and auto shut off on the RODI unit) in the barrel. The barrel then gravity feeds another float valve in my sump(s). When the barrel gets low, I'll manually turn on the RODI and let it fill until it hits the shut off, then I'll manually shut down the RODI until the barrel gets low again. This way it makes 45 gallons in one run, insted of turning on and off for dozens of little short runs.

I've never heard of alk precipitating out of stored saltwater. I guess if you have high atmospheric Co2 then that could gradually deplete it, but I've never seen it happen??

[Joe0813]

ok so this might be a dumb question... but how does the float valve on my brute trash can actually shut off my RODI water? I have the brs stage 5 plus connected directly to the facet and then the waste drilled into the elbow of the drain. so how does the RODI water actually stop coming out of the hose? does it just turn a valve or something and just have all the water just go down the drain?

[jimmyj7090]

Originally Posted by Joe0813

ok so this might be a dumb question... but how does the float valve on my brute trash can actually shut off my RODI water? I have the brs stage 5 plus connected directly to the facet and then the waste drilled into the elbow of the drain. so how does the RODI water actually stop coming out of the hose? does it just turn a valve or something and just have all the water just go down the drain?

It only works if the RODI unit has an auto shut off built in. When a unit does have the auto shut off, it will detect the back pressure from the float valve being closed, and then will shut off the input water to the RODI unit.

Here's an example;
http://www.marinedepot.com/Kent_Mari...RORASO-vi.html

Most of the better units these days come with the auto shut off installed (unlike the kent units that come with nothing and make you pay double to add on all the bells and whistles).

[Joe0813]

thanks for clearing that up... i have the BRS stage 5 plus i just checked.. i have the auto shut off.. so basically the water still runs but it just goes down the drain instead of dumping 20 gallons of water on my basement floor, again... maybe i should buy one

[Portsie]

I highly recommend an auto shut off. I just got mine set up and love it. I still manually turn off my RO unit between fill ups, but it's nice to not have to worry about making a mess while making your water. The 3 things needed to set up the auto shut off are 1) float valve 2) check valve 3) auto shut off. It's very easy to set up, BRS tv has a video that can walk you through it step by step.

I also just installed a flush kit on my unit, a lot of people recommend it to help extend the life of your RO membrane.

[rfgonzo]

If you don't have a auto shut off the float valve will stop your RO/DI water from going in the storage bin when full, and YES the rest will keep going down to waste water.

[60gal reef guy]

Thanks guys this has all helped out. Sounds like your better off getting a nicer unit that def. has a auto shut off then.

[jimmyj7090]

Originally Posted by Joe0813

thanks for clearing that up... i have the BRS stage 5 plus i just checked.. i have the auto shut off.. so basically the water still runs but it just goes down the drain instead of dumping 20 gallons of water on my basement floor, again... maybe i should buy one

It shuts off completely. No product water, no waste water. The input water to the RO is cut off.

[D-Nak]

My RO/DI has an auto shut off as well. I also added a hose timer so that water can be made only at certain times. This prevents the on/off problem that prematurely wears out the membrane, but also keeps the entire system automated. I have a small 5 gallon bin with a float directly hooked onto the RO/DI unit. Inside the bin is a pump for my Tunze Osmolator, which has a built-in auto off function if the pump runs dry. In other words, if my Osmolator sensors (it has both an optical sensor and float) fail, the most my tank will get is 5 gallons of top off water. Once the bin runs dry the pump shuts off and stays off until I reset the system.

[Joe0813]

So if I have a 16 gallon top off bin and a 20 gallon brute for water changes can I do them both? My top off container is 20 feet away from my facet

[sn4265]

If your RO/DI has an auto shutoff you should be able to tee off the output line to a float valve for each container. This is basically what I'm working on with my system right now. Is that what you were asking?

[shifty51008]

Originally Posted by Joe0813

So if I have a 16 gallon top off bin and a 20 gallon brute for water changes can I do them both? My top off container is 20 feet away from my facet

I have a 32 gal water change container and a 32 gal top off container and do them both with my RODI unit. I just T off the output line to each container that has a float valve in each and turn it on. if I only need 1 container to fill I shut off the ball valve to that container.

[Joe0813]

yes it was guys... thanks a lot