Mistake, Mistake, Mistake, Learn - Build Thread

[Dotterer]

So I’m totally overdue for this - but here’s my ‘build’ thread.

I am most certainly a re-newb to this hobby. had a 55 saltwater tank about 20 years ago - and finally got the home where there was space for another one. Boy have things come a long way from an under gravel filter and a powerhead! So after poking around a little, I decided I’d dive in.

I’m self aware enough (just barely) to know that I’m going to make a ton of mistakes about this. So I fully consider this a ‘learning’ experience, where I try and do everything right (and don’t get to upset with myself for making the expected mistakes a long the way.)

I saw a used all in one red sea model at a local store, and thought about that - and then stumbled upon this beauty on craigslist.





So I had to choose between a smaller ‘take it home, fill er up and start the cycle’ or the bigger DIY model. I chose the later. I’m not sure if this was mistake #1, because I’ve learned a lot since then, but the fact of the matter is that the DIY is still in my garage as I build it, and the first option would have had me wet that weekend.

MISTAKE #2 - when I got to the guys house - suddenly the lights were ‘not working’ any more, and so he had taken them off and put them in his garage. I’m not sure what kind of lights they were here (more on that later) but I’m pretty sure the seller wanted to keep them and so took them off. Again - I was new enough at that point to be thinking about the tank as the glass, not all the cool toys around it.

So here it is, having pushed my truck to the driveway. (Apologies for the mess in this thread’s pictures - but we still have a bunch of moving stuff there in the garage)



Here’s a pic with the canopy off - you can see that there are some glass bracing in the middle, and glass tops fit to either side of that if desired.



The canopy has flip open lids that are a kind of a pain to get to, but would keep my kids out at least.



As I was investigating the type of filtration I was going to use, I stumbled across the BeanAnimal thread - and decided to use that. After 2+ weeks of reading that whole thread (fun!) I started in scraping the black paint off of the back of the tank, so I could build an external overflow.

[Dotterer]

In keeping with the spirit of ‘learning by buying used stuff and figurine it out’, and knowing that the Bean likes a high flow, I bought a used Mag 24 for $80 on ebay. It arrived like this, so I was a little worried, but it worked just fine.



In the meantime, started in on drilling the tank:



Mistake - trying to use an old cordless drill. Just didn’t have the RPMs, and was taking forever on the very thick glass.

But in the end, got three holes (these will basically flow through to the overflow on the back, they are not the holes for the bulkheads.



Called up my local glass guy who looks like he’s worked out of the same shack for 50 years (but a joy to talk to) and started assembling. Forgot to take pics of the glass assembly process, but here’s the first dry fit when I put the PVC on



Note that for the internal weir - I used an almost coast to coast, but opted for a bit of a departure from the normal square weir you would use if you were going to put plumbing in there - and went with a triangle weir.





This may bite me down the road for detritus collection, but I want to do a back wall,

(like this awesome one here: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1437901)

and thought the angle here would be perfect and let me make ‘rock’ that went almost to the top of the overflow, vs. building around a hard 90 degree angled bottom.



First water test a success! (the Mag24 is in a Rubbermaid container right underneath the external weir)

Here’s where I ran into my first big gotcha - I had picked up a 55 tank for a sump, and it will fit in there - but only if I take the stand apart to get it in. I’m not sure I’m ready to have it that permanently in there, so picked up a 29 at one of the $/gallon sales. (Should have grabbed two, and connected via a couple unions)





Started in on the return plumbing:

[Dotterer]

And got a big pile of rock from BRS to start my back wall - but here’s where I’ve run into my first big hurdle, and could use advice.

As you saw above, the original tank had some sort of lights underneath the flip-up-canopy.

They were connected with these:





I’ve got no idea what to do here. I’d like to eventually have some SPS. But have no idea on what lighting to think about/use.

There isn’t a lot of room between the flip top and the glass



and if I keep the up-and-over on the return plumbing, I won’t be able to have glass covering for something to rest on.

Lots of ‘mistakes’ Lot’s of learning.

Any ideas?

[living_waters]

Looks great so far although if you plan on having sps through the compact fluorescent out the window and look into radion leds if your on a budget look up reefbreeders there actually a sponser here and have great reviews and customer service I will be buying from them soon for my 75 good luck!

[Dotterer]

Originally Posted by living_waters

Looks great so far although if you plan on having sps through the compact fluorescent out the window and look into radion leds if your on a budget look up reefbreeders there actually a sponser here and have great reviews and customer service I will be buying from them soon for my 75 good luck!

Thanks for the kind words, LW, and the recommendation on reefbreeders. I'll definitely check them out.

The concern I had on the LED boxes was mounting - do I just put them under the flip up tops? I imagine they need to be pretty high off the tank? And then the question of if I should drill the back of the tank and run the returns through instead so that I can put the glass tops back on?

[MondoBongo]

i wouldn't worry about putting the glass tops on. they will eat up a lot of your light penetration, and could also negatively impact gas exchange and aeration.

if you're thinking about the lids for stopping jumpers, check out the self screen kits.

i just finished making my own screen top. i used a roll of this stuff:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/catalo.../view/id/1768/

then went to Lowe's and got two DIY window screening kits, they were about $12 each.

much better than the egg crate i was using as a top before. much more light enters the tank now, the "shimmer" is better, and it is a smaller mesh size to help keep everyone in the tub so to speak.

LED mounting heights can vary a good bit depending on the brand, type of optic they use, how many you have purchased versus how many feet of tank you have to cover, etc...

i have AI Vegas over my 75, and they're probably about 7" - 8" above the water.

you may need to use a hole saw on the lid above where the LEDs mount to give a little spot for the cooling fans to vent to.

[StevieD]

Man...I commend you guys that use the overflow boxes on the outside of the tank...I just don't think I could trust that lol....looks good though...

[Cbsailor11]

Dotterel, looks like those ballasts can handle T5HO bulbs which I see lots of people using. Could reduce your start up costs by just getting some bulbs, but lighting should be based on what you wish to stock the tank with.

Good luck with the build

[Dotterer]

That's awesome sailor - any idea on where to start learning about what bulbs could work in that? And if I just need caps?

[Cbsailor11]

There a forum site call Reef Central...lol
I would post some better pics of the ballasts and sockets in the lighting forum, should find lots of advice there.

What size tank is this your building BTW?

[Dotterer]

Originally Posted by Cbsailor11

There a forum site call Reef Central...lol
I would post some better pics of the ballasts and sockets in the lighting forum, should find lots of advice there.

What size tank is this your building BTW?

LOL. GREAT point.

It's a 125. Exciting times.

[tdo]

Looking good so far! Those ballasts for the lights u can rewrite to run 39w t5ho lamps. One ballast will run three bulbs.. Those bulbs are 3 ft long which would be perfect for your tank. U can get a retrofit online and it will come with the end caps and reflectors. Or if you choose to do led lights, I would still use the t5ho for supplementing since you already have the canopy..

[Cbsailor11]

Just a couple of observations. In the pic of the back of the tank the emergency pipe looks lower than your open channel. And all look kinda high, slight chance of overflowing the overflow box. May just be a dry fit that is shown in the pic.
A Mag 24 seems big for a return pump for only a estimated 145g system. Most returns are preferred to be 3-4x system volume. Depends mainly on skimmer requirements ie mine requires 1000gph. But I don't know you return plumbing head loss.

[Cbsailor11]

Todo- would you run T5 with Radions? I'll stop hijacking now.

[JAnwyl]

Nice thing is bigger tank more stable water params are. 10% of water evaporates from that salinity doesn't really change, 10% from my 24 gallon and salinity definitely changes. One thing that I learned (you could make a box inside the tank to skim water from the surface) Is that my 24 skimmed water from about an inch below the surface, This caused oils and stuff to accumulate on the surface of my water. One of the best/cheapest mods on that tank was a surface skimmer, which caused water to overflow from the surface. All that stuff accumulating on the surface is forced into filter. Helped make tank look nicer also helped with light penetration.

Besides that negative your tank looks great.

[JAnwyl]

Actually looking at the pictures again that kind of triangle thing looks like it will cause your water to overflow into it. (just make sure it skims the surface) Looks good.

I read on another thread someone saying something bad about it but I only purchase from Liveaquaria.com (they've always treated me and my friends right) when live purchases online. Otherwise craigslist and reeferclub members are good resources.

[tdo]

Originally Posted by Cbsailor11

Todo- would you run T5 with Radions? I'll stop hijacking now.

Yes, with tried and true performance from bulbs I certainly would if I had the capability to. I am all for LEDs just because of how they work, but I am all for supplementing if I had a canopy.

If op put radians in that canopy I don't believe he will get the spread needed from the LEDs.

[Jone]

Lucky deal..Always a couple of bugs to work out of doing a tank build..Just makes everything that much sweeter in the end..When your all done ,just sit back and enjoy..

[567234ta]

get some type of controller like a reef keeper lite and install fans in the canopy pushing air in, it helps with gas exchange on the water and you could run Metal halides with t-5 combo. Any light is gonna have heat trapped in there but having air blowing on the water even without lights is a really good thing for a healthy tank.

[living_waters]

i wouldnt waste any $$$ on glass lids i have one for my 36 and when i would use it it was so annoying to clean every maybe 2 days just so it wouldnt mess with the light penetration and it would throw my ph and alkalinity out of whack due to lack of oxygenation in the water. plus one on the screen lids for jumpers i dont know why people use egg crate when its designed to deflect light

[living_waters]

go on the reef breeders thread i beleave you can have them in your canopy no prob with light spread....

[Dotterer]

Originally Posted by Cbsailor11

Just a couple of observations. In the pic of the back of the tank the emergency pipe looks lower than your open channel. And all look kinda high, slight chance of overflowing the overflow box. May just be a dry fit that is shown in the pic.
A Mag 24 seems big for a return pump for only a estimated 145g system. Most returns are preferred to be 3-4x system volume. Depends mainly on skimmer requirements ie mine requires 1000gph. But I don't know you return plumbing head loss.

Thanks for the feedback, Sailor. I think the picture may not be a great one - the emergency has an upturned elbow, so only kicks in after the open channel. They are still in dry fit, though - as I'm still poking around trying to figure out if I can put a threaded 1.5 PVC as the last part of the open and siphon drains, so I can put a strainer on them. There is a LOT of water in that external overflow - but something I wasn't really thinking about when I did it is that I wanted the flow of water to go over the triangle weir (skimming there) and then not have another drop into the external overflow to limit the noise.

I do what to try and get around 10 times return (and it helps making the siphon start get going) and was thinking about running a couple things off the main line manifold, but the Mag 24 is so loud that I may swap it out later down the road as well.

Thanks again!

[Dotterer]

Originally Posted by JAnwyl

Actually looking at the pictures again that kind of triangle thing looks like it will cause your water to overflow into it. (just make sure it skims the surface) Looks good.

Yep - the almost coast to coast triangle weir's only purpose is the surface skimming.

[Dotterer]

Originally Posted by living_waters

i wouldnt waste any $$$ on glass lids i have one for my 36 and when i would use it it was so annoying to clean every maybe 2 days just so it wouldnt mess with the light penetration and it would throw my ph and alkalinity out of whack due to lack of oxygenation in the water. plus one on the screen lids for jumpers i dont know why people use egg crate when its designed to deflect light

Good feedback - appreciate that. Makes it that much easier, too, I'm keeping the up and overs!

[Dotterer]

And HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!