In wall double sided question

Bgcoop8784 · 02/10/2014, 07:16 PM

In my "man cave"/shop I'm wanting to build a faux wall to house a double sided reef tank. I've been searching but haven't seen any real info on powerhead placement. I'm thinking about doing a bean style overflow on the end of the tank instead of the back and plumbing the return line to the opposite side all hidden by the wall. Probably going to be a 125/150/180 gallon tank, going to talk to the guys at the nearest LFS and see what my options are for ordering one(closest fish store is an hour from me and no others within a 3 hour drive). My main concern is it needs to be around 24" wide so LR placement can all be down the center of the tank so fish/corals can be seen on both sides of the tank. Would using a powerhead in each corner facing towards the center of the tank with opposite corners alternating so it makes a circular water flow be ok, or is there a better way to do it. Really don't want to see powerheads stuck on the front and back of the tank. Thanks for any advice, hope this is posted in the right section, sorry if it isn't.

wtac · 02/10/2014, 08:20 PM

WRT powerheads, the least visually obtrusive would be using either 2xMP40's or 1xMP60 on each end. It's going to be $$$.

Comparing costs and weighing pros and cons of powerheads vs closed loop, you can have the intake drilled on the bottom pane @~the 1/3 mark and use either the 4-way Oceans Motions or 4/6 way derKroon FlowWolf and have the returns plumbed at the corners (4-way) and a pair at ~centre (6-way).

Other powerheads will have cords in the water and take up a bit more internal real estate, ie Tunze, Jebao, etc.

From here, it's figuring out how much you want to spend, visual impact, "risk assessment" (closed loop), etc.

JMHO/HTH

Bgcoop8784 · 02/10/2014, 08:48 PM

I don't mind the cords in the water so much, as long as they are on the sides of he tank and not front and back. I haven't read a lot about the closed loop systems, guess it's time for some more reading. I have a 80 gallon tank that I may be using for the sump, so plenty of room to add whatever. I'd rather not drill the bottom of the tank if possible, most of the tanks I can find have tempered bottoms.

Bgcoop8784 · 02/10/2014, 10:50 PM

The more I think about it, it would be nice to have three sides open, but then I would have to do a closed loop system coming from the top of the tank. I'd still have a couple inches of unsightly pipes to look at on the one end or a return pipe running over the side and under the liverock all the way down the center to the opposite side, but may be worth it to have the third side of the tank open. I'm just afraid I'm going to be fighting dead spots.

wtac · 02/11/2014, 07:40 AM

In keeping w/powerheads, on the return pipe from the sump (opposite side of overflow), you can use a Sea Swirl or two depending on the GPH, pressure or flow biased return pump, and 3/4" or 1" model of Sea Swirl that will rotate @90*. Also, IIRC, you can change the top fitting from a FPT-barb w/FPT-FPT union and plumb to the PVC vs having to use vinyl hose.

On the overflow side:
- a pair of MP40's
- MP60
- a pair of Tunze 6105 or 6205s w/ controller
- a pair of Tunze 6105 w/controller on a SeaSweeps
- I cannot comment on the Jebaos as I've never used them before.

With just LR in the beginning stages, the Tunzes and moreso Tunze on SeaSweeps are every obvious but once the corals begin to take hold, you won't notice them as much.

Closed loop, intake @lower 3rd and can easily be hidden by LR and pumped through either OM4 or dK-FW 4/6. Not knowing if it's a pre-existing aquarium or something that is being built, if you are hesitant to drill another hole that low, looping over is fine if the visuals aren't going to bother you. If it's a custom build and not built yet...you can request to have that side built w/thicker glass and/or tempered.

Configurations on how to do this are only endless with the vast experiences of hobbiests. Take the time to find what best fits for your needs and goals. If there is a club in your area, join and see what other reefers w/a peninsula style system are doing. It's easier to see first hand and ask the owner Q's both of what s/he likes and what they would do different.

HTH.

Bgcoop8784 · 02/11/2014, 11:46 AM

Thanks for the info. The aquarium will be a new purchase. I have a 125 that's not wide enough for my taste, and a 220 but it has some scratches from the previous owner and I really don't want to spend the time/money on a double sided tank that has scratches already in it. I will try and get the tank ordered this week and then I'll get a better picture of exactly how I want to lay out all the plumbing. The room the tank will be in is a 30' x 30' with no walls existing, so I'm building a peninsula shaped wall to separate the room a little. I hate going with such a small tank, but the temperature worries me. The room temp can get as low as 45F during the winter when I'm not in my shop. I have no problems keeping my 150 gallon at a constant 79F during the winter, but I believe that if I go much larger I'll have water temp fluctuations and it's not worth stressing the fish to me. I like the sea sweeps idea though and it's deff. worth considering for this build, in fact, maybe I'm missing something, but it looks an awful lot like a windshield wiper motor, which I access cases of with adjustable rotation and speed.

pledosophy · 02/11/2014, 01:56 PM

If you have not ordered the tank yet a thicker acrylic might help you to insulate the tank a bit better.

Also adding a few small heaters to the sump would not be so bad to keep the tank warm. You can stagger temp settings on a few different heaters or even get a temperature controller and run the heaters off of that.

Closed loops would be good to hide plumbing.

You can also have the canopy of the tank come down a couple of inches to hide the returns if you want to run them down from the top of the system. Cabinetry is very important when planning builds IMO.

I do think two MP40's would definitely move some water on a tank that size and if the canopy was covering a bit more then normal you could run them on wave mode and get some really nice motion.

Having a third side would be cool, but having the ability to run plumbing up both sides would also be cool. If your return was on one side and your drain on the other it would give the tank a natural flow.

JMO

Bgcoop8784 · 02/11/2014, 04:36 PM

The more I think about it, three sides would be awesome, especially after getting used to my 60 gallon cube and having three sides. I have all the access to acrylic I want, but for some reason I want a glass tank. I think if I run the return line over the tank vs. up the side I can still run all my plumbing from one side and drop my return/returns on the opposite . Depending on the height of the tank I will be able to extend my canopy down a couple inches, great idea by the way, and hide the return line in. I'm really dreading the cost of the mp40s most of all. After seeing the Seasweeps, I know I can diy one to work with whatever powerhead I choose. After looking at tank dimensions today, looks like I may have to go with a 180 gallon tank, it's the only way I'm going to be able to get a tank over 4' and still have my 24+ inches of width. I may have to build a slip on insulated cover for the tank during the winter months, but I'll have all year to build that. The best part of this whole build will be the fact that its in a concrete floored shop, so I don't have to worry about spills, lol. I'm going to my LFS on friday and see about ordering a tank. I have a response back from aqueon that their tanks only have tempered bottoms. I'm still waiting to hear from marineland about their tanks. I know my LFS stocks AG and Marineland tanks, maybe they will have another option. When I talked to them last week they said that every tank they sold was completely tempered glass including sides, I'm guessing it's easier to say that than to actually pull specs on each tank.

wtac · 02/12/2014, 08:58 AM

After some further thought on my suggestions, the 24" width is going to be an issue using the SeaSweeps as the Tunze 6105s will blow the sand towards the middle as it faces the long panes...that would drive me nuts...LOL!

To revise:

On the overflow side:
- a pair of MP40's
- MP60
- a pair of Tunze 6155 or 6255s w/ controller (the wide flow model)

02/10/2014, 07:16 PM	#1
Bgcoop8784 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Augusta GA Posts: 234	In wall double sided question In my "man cave"/shop I'm wanting to build a faux wall to house a double sided reef tank. I've been searching but haven't seen any real info on powerhead placement. I'm thinking about doing a bean style overflow on the end of the tank instead of the back and plumbing the return line to the opposite side all hidden by the wall. Probably going to be a 125/150/180 gallon tank, going to talk to the guys at the nearest LFS and see what my options are for ordering one(closest fish store is an hour from me and no others within a 3 hour drive). My main concern is it needs to be around 24" wide so LR placement can all be down the center of the tank so fish/corals can be seen on both sides of the tank. Would using a powerhead in each corner facing towards the center of the tank with opposite corners alternating so it makes a circular water flow be ok, or is there a better way to do it. Really don't want to see powerheads stuck on the front and back of the tank. Thanks for any advice, hope this is posted in the right section, sorry if it isn't.

02/11/2014, 01:56 PM	#7
pledosophy Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Beaverton Posts: 5,290	If you have not ordered the tank yet a thicker acrylic might help you to insulate the tank a bit better. Also adding a few small heaters to the sump would not be so bad to keep the tank warm. You can stagger temp settings on a few different heaters or even get a temperature controller and run the heaters off of that. Closed loops would be good to hide plumbing. You can also have the canopy of the tank come down a couple of inches to hide the returns if you want to run them down from the top of the system. Cabinetry is very important when planning builds IMO. I do think two MP40's would definitely move some water on a tank that size and if the canopy was covering a bit more then normal you could run them on wave mode and get some really nice motion. Having a third side would be cool, but having the ability to run plumbing up both sides would also be cool. If your return was on one side and your drain on the other it would give the tank a natural flow. JMO __________________ 120g mixed reef 90g QT

02/12/2014, 08:58 AM	#9
wtac Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Toronto and Calgary, Canada Posts: 377	After some further thought on my suggestions, the 24" width is going to be an issue using the SeaSweeps as the Tunze 6105s will blow the sand towards the middle as it faces the long panes...that would drive me nuts...LOL! To revise: On the overflow side: - a pair of MP40's - MP60 - a pair of Tunze 6155 or 6255s w/ controller (the wide flow model) Last edited by wtac; 02/12/2014 at 09:24 AM.

02/10/2014, 08:20 PM	#2
wtac Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Toronto and Calgary, Canada Posts: 377	WRT powerheads, the least visually obtrusive would be using either 2xMP40's or 1xMP60 on each end. It's going to be $$$. Comparing costs and weighing pros and cons of powerheads vs closed loop, you can have the intake drilled on the bottom pane @~the 1/3 mark and use either the 4-way Oceans Motions or 4/6 way derKroon FlowWolf and have the returns plumbed at the corners (4-way) and a pair at ~centre (6-way). Other powerheads will have cords in the water and take up a bit more internal real estate, ie Tunze, Jebao, etc. From here, it's figuring out how much you want to spend, visual impact, "risk assessment" (closed loop), etc. JMHO/HTH

02/10/2014, 08:48 PM	#3
Bgcoop8784 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Augusta GA Posts: 234	I don't mind the cords in the water so much, as long as they are on the sides of he tank and not front and back. I haven't read a lot about the closed loop systems, guess it's time for some more reading. I have a 80 gallon tank that I may be using for the sump, so plenty of room to add whatever. I'd rather not drill the bottom of the tank if possible, most of the tanks I can find have tempered bottoms.

02/10/2014, 10:50 PM	#4
Bgcoop8784 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Augusta GA Posts: 234	The more I think about it, it would be nice to have three sides open, but then I would have to do a closed loop system coming from the top of the tank. I'd still have a couple inches of unsightly pipes to look at on the one end or a return pipe running over the side and under the liverock all the way down the center to the opposite side, but may be worth it to have the third side of the tank open. I'm just afraid I'm going to be fighting dead spots.

02/11/2014, 07:40 AM	#5
wtac Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Toronto and Calgary, Canada Posts: 377	In keeping w/powerheads, on the return pipe from the sump (opposite side of overflow), you can use a Sea Swirl or two depending on the GPH, pressure or flow biased return pump, and 3/4" or 1" model of Sea Swirl that will rotate @90*. Also, IIRC, you can change the top fitting from a FPT-barb w/FPT-FPT union and plumb to the PVC vs having to use vinyl hose. On the overflow side: - a pair of MP40's - MP60 - a pair of Tunze 6105 or 6205s w/ controller - a pair of Tunze 6105 w/controller on a SeaSweeps - I cannot comment on the Jebaos as I've never used them before. With just LR in the beginning stages, the Tunzes and moreso Tunze on SeaSweeps are every obvious but once the corals begin to take hold, you won't notice them as much. Closed loop, intake @lower 3rd and can easily be hidden by LR and pumped through either OM4 or dK-FW 4/6. Not knowing if it's a pre-existing aquarium or something that is being built, if you are hesitant to drill another hole that low, looping over is fine if the visuals aren't going to bother you. If it's a custom build and not built yet...you can request to have that side built w/thicker glass and/or tempered. Configurations on how to do this are only endless with the vast experiences of hobbiests. Take the time to find what best fits for your needs and goals. If there is a club in your area, join and see what other reefers w/a peninsula style system are doing. It's easier to see first hand and ask the owner Q's both of what s/he likes and what they would do different. HTH.

02/11/2014, 11:46 AM	#6
Bgcoop8784 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Augusta GA Posts: 234	Thanks for the info. The aquarium will be a new purchase. I have a 125 that's not wide enough for my taste, and a 220 but it has some scratches from the previous owner and I really don't want to spend the time/money on a double sided tank that has scratches already in it. I will try and get the tank ordered this week and then I'll get a better picture of exactly how I want to lay out all the plumbing. The room the tank will be in is a 30' x 30' with no walls existing, so I'm building a peninsula shaped wall to separate the room a little. I hate going with such a small tank, but the temperature worries me. The room temp can get as low as 45F during the winter when I'm not in my shop. I have no problems keeping my 150 gallon at a constant 79F during the winter, but I believe that if I go much larger I'll have water temp fluctuations and it's not worth stressing the fish to me. I like the sea sweeps idea though and it's deff. worth considering for this build, in fact, maybe I'm missing something, but it looks an awful lot like a windshield wiper motor, which I access cases of with adjustable rotation and speed.

02/11/2014, 04:36 PM	#8
Bgcoop8784 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Augusta GA Posts: 234	The more I think about it, three sides would be awesome, especially after getting used to my 60 gallon cube and having three sides. I have all the access to acrylic I want, but for some reason I want a glass tank. I think if I run the return line over the tank vs. up the side I can still run all my plumbing from one side and drop my return/returns on the opposite . Depending on the height of the tank I will be able to extend my canopy down a couple inches, great idea by the way, and hide the return line in. I'm really dreading the cost of the mp40s most of all. After seeing the Seasweeps, I know I can diy one to work with whatever powerhead I choose. After looking at tank dimensions today, looks like I may have to go with a 180 gallon tank, it's the only way I'm going to be able to get a tank over 4' and still have my 24+ inches of width. I may have to build a slip on insulated cover for the tank during the winter months, but I'll have all year to build that. The best part of this whole build will be the fact that its in a concrete floored shop, so I don't have to worry about spills, lol. I'm going to my LFS on friday and see about ordering a tank. I have a response back from aqueon that their tanks only have tempered bottoms. I'm still waiting to hear from marineland about their tanks. I know my LFS stocks AG and Marineland tanks, maybe they will have another option. When I talked to them last week they said that every tank they sold was completely tempered glass including sides, I'm guessing it's easier to say that than to actually pull specs on each tank.