Quartine question

[bmay]

Another question which I'm sure has been answered before but anyways, should I quarantine my cuc? And if so, since my quarantine tank is bare how do I feed my cuc while in quarantine?

[Newsmyrna80]

I would. I once introduced an unquarantined emerald crab and introduced ich. Eight years later I introduced a sea urchin and introduced brook. I know a lot of people say the chances are slim but I do not take the chance anymore. I have coral and snails in a QT right now with small prices of live rock for filtration and food.

[bmay]

Thanks for the reply! Thats my plan, I do not want to take any chances.

So a few pieces of live rock should be sufficient?

[snorvich]

Safest course is to quarantine anything wet. Most especially if it ever resided in a fish system.

[Dmorty217]

Originally Posted by snorvich

Safest course is to quarantine anything wet. Most especially if it ever resided in a fish system.

Do you recommend TT method,or something more long term and covering more possible diseases?

[snorvich]

Best practice quarantine protocol

My suggested protocol is to use tank transfer for all new fish specimens to insure against cryptocaryon irritans. 12 days and two 10 or 20 gallon tanks is all it takes.

The initial receiving tank is temp and SG adjusted to the bag water( SG a few points couple of points lower than the bagwater is ok but not higher) This obviates the need for drip acclimation and prolonged stays in bag water where pH can rise and ammonia toxicity can increase once the bag is opened. This is particularly important after prolonged stays in the bag.

During the 12 day tank transfer process ( 3 day stays 4 transfers, move fish on the morning of days 4,7,10,13) observe for other maladies. Since there are no meds to interact with in the transfer tanks which contain freshly mixed salt water aged and aerated overnight , use an ammonia detoxifier such as Prime during each 3 day period. Bound copper products for example can't be safely used with ammonia detoxifiers as more toxic free copper occurs with lethal copper toxicity,even though total copper measures the same.

If there is reason to suspect infestation with brooklynellosis, velvet or flukes , do a formalin bath before starting treatment with copper for velvet, formalin for brooklynellosis or prazi pro for flukes.

Since not all maladies will present symptoms in the 12 days( flukes can easily be missed, velvet can take up to 30 days to present), use a larger cycled QT tank for an additional 2 to 4 weeks of observation depending on the condition of the fish with treatment as necessary. This also gives the fish a chance to start eating in a friendly, no stress environment with no competition.

Most fish receive no medications yet all are effectively prophylactically treated for ich,the most common killer

Ammonia is monitored and has never been an issue during the 3 day stay but a detoxifier is added just in case, The cycled tank takes care of itself.

BTW there is no need to worry about nitrite or nitrate.

[bmay]

What about feeding the cuc while in quarantine since my 10g qt is bare.

[Newsmyrna80]

If you put some live rock in they can eat off that. Also you could lightly feed with fish food including Nori.

[igot2gats]

What kinds of 'signs' are there to look for on inverts?

[snorvich]

Originally Posted by igot2gats

What kinds of 'signs' are there to look for on inverts?

That they have a parasite? No visible signs, but then again fish also may have no visible signs.

[mx51]

Originally Posted by snorvich

That they have a parasite? No visible signs, but then again fish also may have no visible signs.

So with the cuc I would assume to QT shrimp (fire shrimp,cleaner shrimp,ect.) do you just add medications like copper, and the others from the get go?

[snorvich]

Originally Posted by mx51

So with the cuc I would assume to QT shrimp (fire shrimp,cleaner shrimp,ect.) do you just add medications like copper, and the others from the get go?

Never copper or other medication. Simply isolate for about 2 weeks, longer if you want greater certainty, and if it came from water that had fish, the safest would be about 10 weeks.

[tanked37]

Originally Posted by snorvich

Never copper or other medication. Simply isolate for about 2 weeks, longer if you want greater certainty, and if it came from water that had fish, the safest would be about 10 weeks.

I've wrestled with how long to QT CUC's if at all and I feel like QT'ing for 2 weeks is pointless. You won't (can't) ever see anything, and 2 weeks doesn't do anything. What does 2 weeks of time do? I'm just saying, if you're worried about Ich, etc then 8-10 weeks minimum in a fishless QT is your only real option otherwise just put them in the DT because any other amount of time is just wasting your time.

I can see dipping corals and then QT'ing for 2 weeks to look for pests, but as far as CUC's it's just not long enough. Am I wrong here?

[snorvich]

Originally Posted by tanked37

I've wrestled with how long to QT CUC's if at all and I feel like QT'ing for 2 weeks is pointless. You won't (can't) ever see anything, and 2 weeks doesn't do anything. What does 2 weeks of time do? I'm just saying, if you're worried about Ich, etc then 8-10 weeks minimum in a fishless QT is your only real option otherwise just put them in the DT because any other amount of time is just wasting your time.

I can see dipping corals and then QT'ing for 2 weeks to look for pests, but as far as CUC's it's just not long enough. Am I wrong here?

For 100% certainty, 72 days. It depends on what part of the life cycle came in with the CUC. If tomites, then 2 weeks is fine since if they do not find a fish host, they die sooner than that.