To start over or not to start over...

Vanishingstar05 · 04/29/2014, 05:07 PM

Hi, my name is Ashley. I am a new member here (I have been to this site a million times but never signed up). I have a 75 gallon saltwater tank that I have set up for about 2 years now. I started it from scratch and it was flourishing and perfect, I had tons of different corals and some fish (even cope pods) and then made the mistake of getting anemone and it died shortly after getting it and it completely crashed the tank killing everything but my paired clown fish. That was about 8-9 months ago. I got really upset with it and stopped messing with it but just recently decided to get my tank back to working condition. I kept up with the water changes and maintenance. Except for having to put tap water in it because our RO supplier was no more. So I just bought a 4 stage ro/di filter to make my own. But my question is should I start over from scratch because I have potentially bad water or just start to do massive water changes to get the tap water and crap out. I have a green algae problem right now but nothing I can't handle. Thank you for your time and advice!!

Sgt Jonny Cat · 04/29/2014, 05:20 PM

I'm a rookie here Ashley, but I wouldn't start over. I started my 55 gallon FOWLR tank with tap water, and have been doing water changes with RO/DI and my tank is doing pretty well. I recently battled red slime cyano, but I seem to have it under control. Hang in there, and be patient. I wish I had some advise from my experience but I haven't even put my first coral in my tank yet...

MinnFish · 04/29/2014, 07:11 PM

After using tap water, you probably has a high concentration of phosphate. Which is the reason for the algae problem. My first course of action would be to manually remove the algae. Then run some phosphate removal media (I'm not into suggesting brand). This will get those phosphates in check. It might take some time, rocks might be leeching phosphate. Due to the use of tap water. You have some work to do. But, the bright side is. You can keep your 2 remaining clowns. We are here for you. Happy reefkeeping.

maddmaxx · 04/29/2014, 07:21 PM

To Reef Central

maddmaxx · 04/29/2014, 07:23 PM

i personally wouldnt restart, everything is already mature. i would do what is posted above me. manually remove as much algae as you can. some sort of phos remover. and top off and water changes with RO/DI water. feed minimal to the clowns. let the system rehab before purchasing new fish. change bulbs if they are old. and let it simply run..

question tho, do you have a sump with a fuge?

Vanishingstar05 · 04/29/2014, 07:55 PM

Thank you all for the fast reply!!

I have a sump with bio balls and a sock. It has a pond pump to cycle the water.

I have now purchased anything at all since the crash beside 8 blur legged crabs I bought yesterday to help me get this algae gone.

The lights are only about 5 ish months old.

MinnFish · 04/29/2014, 09:01 PM

You are going to get mixed reviews on the bio balls.

maddmaxx · 04/29/2014, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vanishingstar05

Thank you all for the fast reply!!

I have a sump with bio balls and a sock. It has a pond pump to cycle the water.

I have now purchased anything at all since the crash beside 8 blur legged crabs I bought yesterday to help me get this algae gone.

The lights are only about 5 ish months old.

remove the bioballs. yes youll get mixed reviews. but its better to have rubble rock in your sump then bioballs. is this a premade sump or a custom sump? do you have a fuge in it? cause if it does you could grow macro to help with phos export. if not, and its possible to add baffles to add a fuge, i would strongly recommend it. the macro algae would eat up the phos and start starving out what ever bad algae you have in the main tank...

maddmaxx · 04/29/2014, 09:14 PM

poss have a pic of your sump?

Vanishingstar05 · 04/30/2014, 09:46 AM

The sump and bio balls came with the tank when I bought it. It is a homemade type sump. I had a saltwater tank about 6 years ago with a canister filter so I am not formiliar with sumps and ruges.

I will take a picture of the sump when I get home.

ThisGuy12 · 04/30/2014, 10:41 AM

Welcome Ashley.

I also wouldn't restart, just start using the RO/DI water for top ups and water changes, you'll be fine. You do want to start pulling the phosphates and other metals out of the water though. I know a local guy who uses nothing but tap water and has never had a problem with it in 10 years, he has one of the if not the best tank around, everything is flourishing.

I would also recommend removing the bio balls, they will eventually become a cesspool for nitrates. Better off putting in a deep sand bed (4") and some live rock, you can also put in Chaeto and other organics to help with water quality.

jerseygurl · 04/30/2014, 12:26 PM

I would not restart at this point. I'd get a BRS GFO/Carbon reactor asap and get that baby running to get the PO4 and other crap out of your tank. Remove as much algae as you can manually and then go lights out for a few days. I'd lose the bioballs immediately. At the same time you can start water changes until you get everything down to an acceptable range. If you don't have a skimmer, you should get one. I'd pass on the fuge, make the tank as low maintenance as possible.

Good luck!

PatW · 04/30/2014, 12:52 PM

Like the others, I recommend not rebooting.

Test your water parameters especially nitrates and phosphates. Like everyone else, I suspect the tap water top offs and massive die off has pushed the values of those nutrients pretty high.

On top of everything else, I think you should run either more or larger water changes to get the nutrient levels down.

But either test the water or get your LFS to test it. Otherwise, we are all just guessing.

Vanishingstar05 · 04/30/2014, 07:47 PM

The tank

Vanishingstar05 · 04/30/2014, 07:51 PM

Left side of tank

Vanishingstar05 · 04/30/2014, 07:54 PM

Right side of tank

Vanishingstar05 · 04/30/2014, 07:55 PM

The sump

Vanishingstar05 · 04/30/2014, 08:04 PM

I did a 10 gallon water change yesterday. And got as much algae out as I could for the time being ( I will do more probably tomorrow)

I also did some tests here are the results from today
Ph 8.2
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 20

I don't have a skimmer on it. I was always told as long as you can keep the top of the water chopped up and not still it would be okay. I have never had a problem with not having one.

I will take the bio balls out. I would like to do something simple instead. If I do the sand and live rock or the rubble rock in the sump do I have to have a light on it or can it be in the dark. I like said before I no pretty much nothin about sumps and refuges.

mluntz · 05/01/2014, 12:52 PM

I wouldn't start over. From the pictures, your tank doesn't look that bad. Get your parameters in order and remove as much of the algae as you can. Get a GFO reactor. You might even want to consider lights our for 3 days. Worked wonders for me.

ThisGuy12 · 05/01/2014, 01:11 PM

You should put a lamp on the fuge, but it isn't entirely necessary, it just helps promote growth and prevent large ph swings.

What were your phosphate and alk readings?

Vanishingstar05 · 05/01/2014, 08:38 PM

I don't have tester for phosphate and alk.

ThisGuy12 · 05/02/2014, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vanishingstar05

I don't have tester for phosphate and alk.

You should get one. Phosphates can be through the roof in normal tap water.

sponger0 · 05/02/2014, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThisGuy12

You should get one. Phosphates can be through the roof in normal tap water.

Shouldnt be using tap water anyway. But since they have a RODI unit, getting a TDS meter and testing the TDS from the tap wouldnt hurt.

My advice, I wouldnt start over. Remove the bioballs. Scrub the algae off the rocks with a toothbrush.

Do a big water change with some fresh RODI saltwater

Get a hanna phos checker to see what your reading on phosphates.

Hook up a phosphate reactor with media. Change out the media every week.

Just keep an eye on your levels and then when things are evened out rebuild the reef.

I would also get more rock and redo the rock work. It wouldnt hurt to add more.

04/29/2014, 05:07 PM	#1
Vanishingstar05 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Kentucky Posts: 9	To start over or not to start over... Hi, my name is Ashley. I am a new member here (I have been to this site a million times but never signed up). I have a 75 gallon saltwater tank that I have set up for about 2 years now. I started it from scratch and it was flourishing and perfect, I had tons of different corals and some fish (even cope pods) and then made the mistake of getting anemone and it died shortly after getting it and it completely crashed the tank killing everything but my paired clown fish. That was about 8-9 months ago. I got really upset with it and stopped messing with it but just recently decided to get my tank back to working condition. I kept up with the water changes and maintenance. Except for having to put tap water in it because our RO supplier was no more. So I just bought a 4 stage ro/di filter to make my own. But my question is should I start over from scratch because I have potentially bad water or just start to do massive water changes to get the tap water and crap out. I have a green algae problem right now but nothing I can't handle. Thank you for your time and advice!!

04/29/2014, 07:11 PM	#3
MinnFish Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Home of 10,000 lakes Posts: 917	After using tap water, you probably has a high concentration of phosphate. Which is the reason for the algae problem. My first course of action would be to manually remove the algae. Then run some phosphate removal media (I'm not into suggesting brand). This will get those phosphates in check. It might take some time, rocks might be leeching phosphate. Due to the use of tap water. You have some work to do. But, the bright side is. You can keep your 2 remaining clowns. We are here for you. Happy reefkeeping. __________________ 33G Long, 4x54 watt T5, Tunze 6025, Tunze Osmolator ATO, Tunze Streamfilter 3163 Posts about moving an oversized fish to a bigger tank. Is like hearing every stripper is just working to pay for colle

04/29/2014, 07:21 PM	#4
maddmaxx Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Jersey Shore Posts: 3,003	*To Reef Central* __________________ One Life One Shot Current Tank Info: 40B Mixed reef

04/29/2014, 07:23 PM	#5
maddmaxx Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Jersey Shore Posts: 3,003	i personally wouldnt restart, everything is already mature. i would do what is posted above me. manually remove as much algae as you can. some sort of phos remover. and top off and water changes with RO/DI water. feed minimal to the clowns. let the system rehab before purchasing new fish. change bulbs if they are old. and let it simply run.. question tho, do you have a sump with a fuge? __________________ One Life One Shot Current Tank Info: 40B Mixed reef

04/29/2014, 09:01 PM	#7
MinnFish Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Home of 10,000 lakes Posts: 917	You are going to get mixed reviews on the bio balls. __________________ 33G Long, 4x54 watt T5, Tunze 6025, Tunze Osmolator ATO, Tunze Streamfilter 3163 Posts about moving an oversized fish to a bigger tank. Is like hearing every stripper is just working to pay for colle

04/29/2014, 05:20 PM	#2
Sgt Jonny Cat Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: North of Boston Ma. Posts: 685	I'm a rookie here Ashley, but I wouldn't start over. I started my 55 gallon FOWLR tank with tap water, and have been doing water changes with RO/DI and my tank is doing pretty well. I recently battled red slime cyano, but I seem to have it under control. Hang in there, and be patient. I wish I had some advise from my experience but I haven't even put my first coral in my tank yet...

04/29/2014, 07:55 PM	#6
Vanishingstar05 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Kentucky Posts: 9	Thank you all for the fast reply!! I have a sump with bio balls and a sock. It has a pond pump to cycle the water. I have now purchased anything at all since the crash beside 8 blur legged crabs I bought yesterday to help me get this algae gone. The lights are only about 5 ish months old.

04/29/2014, 09:14 PM	#9
maddmaxx Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Jersey Shore Posts: 3,003	poss have a pic of your sump? __________________ One Life One Shot Current Tank Info: 40B Mixed reef

04/30/2014, 09:46 AM	#10
Vanishingstar05 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Kentucky Posts: 9	The sump and bio balls came with the tank when I bought it. It is a homemade type sump. I had a saltwater tank about 6 years ago with a canister filter so I am not formiliar with sumps and ruges. I will take a picture of the sump when I get home.

04/30/2014, 10:41 AM	#11
ThisGuy12 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Winnipeg, MB Posts: 822	Welcome Ashley. I also wouldn't restart, just start using the RO/DI water for top ups and water changes, you'll be fine. You do want to start pulling the phosphates and other metals out of the water though. I know a local guy who uses nothing but tap water and has never had a problem with it in 10 years, he has one of the if not the best tank around, everything is flourishing. I would also recommend removing the bio balls, they will eventually become a cesspool for nitrates. Better off putting in a deep sand bed (4") and some live rock, you can also put in Chaeto and other organics to help with water quality.

04/30/2014, 12:26 PM	#12
jerseygurl Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Posts: 329	I would not restart at this point. I'd get a BRS GFO/Carbon reactor asap and get that baby running to get the PO4 and other crap out of your tank. Remove as much algae as you can manually and then go lights out for a few days. I'd lose the bioballs immediately. At the same time you can start water changes until you get everything down to an acceptable range. If you don't have a skimmer, you should get one. I'd pass on the fuge, make the tank as low maintenance as possible. Good luck!

04/30/2014, 12:52 PM	#13
PatW Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Posts: 275	Like the others, I recommend not rebooting. Test your water parameters especially nitrates and phosphates. Like everyone else, I suspect the tap water top offs and massive die off has pushed the values of those nutrients pretty high. On top of everything else, I think you should run either more or larger water changes to get the nutrient levels down. But either test the water or get your LFS to test it. Otherwise, we are all just guessing.

04/30/2014, 08:04 PM	#18
Vanishingstar05 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Kentucky Posts: 9	I did a 10 gallon water change yesterday. And got as much algae out as I could for the time being ( I will do more probably tomorrow) I also did some tests here are the results from today Ph 8.2 Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 20 I don't have a skimmer on it. I was always told as long as you can keep the top of the water chopped up and not still it would be okay. I have never had a problem with not having one. I will take the bio balls out. I would like to do something simple instead. If I do the sand and live rock or the rubble rock in the sump do I have to have a light on it or can it be in the dark. I like said before I no pretty much nothin about sumps and refuges.

05/01/2014, 12:52 PM	#19
mluntz Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Millersville, Md. Posts: 727	I wouldn't start over. From the pictures, your tank doesn't look that bad. Get your parameters in order and remove as much of the algae as you can. Get a GFO reactor. You might even want to consider lights our for 3 days. Worked wonders for me. __________________ 46 Gallon Bowfront, (1)Ocellaris Clownfish, (1)Carpenter wrasse, (1)Coral Beauty, (1)Kole Tang

05/01/2014, 01:11 PM	#20
ThisGuy12 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Winnipeg, MB Posts: 822	You should put a lamp on the fuge, but it isn't entirely necessary, it just helps promote growth and prevent large ph swings. What were your phosphate and alk readings?

05/01/2014, 08:38 PM	#21
Vanishingstar05 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Kentucky Posts: 9	I don't have tester for phosphate and alk.