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06/21/2014, 02:45 PM | #1 |
Moved On
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Clanton, Alabama
Posts: 23
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New to reef keeping, but this is the plan
So I am new to the reef scene but have been doing quite a bit of reading on the forums. You all have a wealth of knowledge that will be very valuable. Below is a list of the equipment I am currently planning to get over the next month or so. I would love to get your input on any suggestions for the build. I would like to mostly stock LPS, but will probably gain some softies and a couple SPS along the way.
-Mr. Aqua 7.5 gallon rimless glass aquarium (18.1" x 9.4" x 10.2") -Gloss black vinyl sheet on the back of the tank -AquaClear 70 converted into HOB refugium -I have AC 20 & 30 impellers to lower the flow rate - wasn't sure which I would need yet so I got both. -If you have any suggestions for a really small light to use for the refugium that would be very helpful as I haven't found one yet (I'll be putting some Chaeto in it) -I am also looking for a small heater to put in the refugium so I don't have to use up room inside my tank. Suggestions on this are welcome as well. -BuildMyLed 20k Reef Spectrum XB Series (black housing) -BuildMyLed Super Actinic Reef Spectrum XB Series (black housing) -BuildMyLed SoLunar Cotroller -Hydor Koralia Nano 240 Powerhead (x2) -Hydor Koralia Wave Maker -I'm also looking to create some sort of glass top/canopy for the tank to prevent some evaporation. Since the tank is rimless, it makes it slightly more difficult. I thought about trying to find some type of clear plastic clips or brackets to put on the edges of the tank and cutting a piece of glass to fit. If there is someone who has done this before you're welcome to chime in any time lol. That's really all I have planned right now as far as equipment goes. I am considering not using any live sand or substrate on the bottom. I thought about maybe putting some star polyps and zoas down there instead. Should I still put something down there for them to sit on or will it matter? I'm planning for about 15 lbs of live rock. |
06/21/2014, 04:59 PM | #2 |
Reef Chemist
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Arlington, Massachusetts
Posts: 86,233
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How did you plan to supplement calcium and alkalinity? I'd recommend a two part for this small of a tank.
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Randy Holmes-Farley Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef |
06/21/2014, 05:30 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Clanton, Alabama
Posts: 23
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06/21/2014, 06:02 PM | #4 |
Reef Chemist
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Arlington, Massachusetts
Posts: 86,233
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Water changes won't keep up with alkalinity for very long, but it is a fine approach as long as it does. As soon as coralline algae starts growing, even if you have few hard corals, water changes likely won't be adequate.
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Randy Holmes-Farley Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef |
06/21/2014, 06:23 PM | #5 | |
Moved On
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Clanton, Alabama
Posts: 23
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06/21/2014, 06:37 PM | #6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Belgrade
Posts: 1,086
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Serously think about getting an ATO. Also, the top of the tank should not be closed in order to allow for gas exchange.
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06/21/2014, 08:21 PM | #7 | |
Moved On
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Clanton, Alabama
Posts: 23
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I have looked into getting the Tunze Osmolator Universal 3155 Auto Top Off. Anyone have any opinions on this particular one or suggest something different? |
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06/21/2014, 08:28 PM | #8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Houston
Posts: 60
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I would consider painting the back instead. Also a 7.5 gallon tank is going to fill up awfully quick. . .
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06/21/2014, 10:36 PM | #9 |
Registered Member
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The following is just my two cents. May not even be worth that but inflation is pretty low these days.
May I suggest that a 7.5 gallon reef is about the most difficult type of tank to keep. One major key to a successful reef tank is stability. With such a low volume of water, maintaining that stability for even the medium term is extremely difficult. Even minor changes in water volume caused by evaporation can have outsized impacts. A single small dead fish or invert can cause serious problems with water quality. Dosing has to be done with greater precision and water husbandry has to be basically perfect. You may want to consider moving up somewhat in size. There are some good 29 gallon systems that occupy a small footprint but provide a more reasonable volume of water as a hedge in supporting stability.
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I want to burn twice as bright and half as long. Oh, and a full tank crash is just an excuse for a new build. Current Tank Info: 125 Rimless Leemar, Apex, Trigger 30 Elite Sump, Vertex 180i Skimmer, 2 X Gen4 Radion XR30W, BM Doser, 2xMP40WES, 2xTunze 6095, Sicce Syncra 4.0. |
06/26/2014, 09:16 PM | #10 |
Moved On
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Clanton, Alabama
Posts: 23
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weelll, I have made a couple changes to my equipment choices and suchhh..
I just purchased the following items (Just waiting for them to arrive )
Once all this stuff comes in I will probably get it set up and head to my LFS to pick up some RO/DI water. I'll also be ordering some dry rock within the next week or so |
06/27/2014, 03:43 AM | #11 |
SPS Addict
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 662
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I would suggest you go bigger than 10 gal, you have the other equipment to run a much larger tank and you will probably find yourself wanting to go bigger very, very soon
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06/27/2014, 04:16 AM | #12 | |
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06/27/2014, 05:04 AM | #13 | |
SPS Addict
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 662
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06/27/2014, 12:02 PM | #14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 15
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I understand and respect the use of nano tanks for those in the process of moving. (I personally am running a 5 gallon QT and 10 gallon display right now until I move in a few months).
I would suggest a couple things, First, look into an adaptable Clean up Crew. That can resolve animal losses and prevent them from breaking down in the water column. I use Nassarius snails (2-3), emerald crab (1) and a fighting Conch along with 2 banded turban snails and 2 blue legged hermits. With these in my tank, they were able to consume a goby loss in the tank without drastically affecting my water parameters. Second, Stick with hardy polyps that tend mind nitrates less then move up as you master the softies. Contemplate investing in/building an algae scrubber. I use a roughed up plastic sheeting with generic lighting LEDs over it attached to my AC 70 Return. It grows hair algae and I scrape it off every week or so. Also, contemplate using the AC 70 to hold an Aquatic Life 115 skimmer (this will require some modification to control the air intake. There are multiple threads online about how to both place in the 70 and modify the air intake). I use one AC 70 with the PS and foam filtration in it and one smaller AC acting as the refugium on mine. 3rd, do smaller water changes more often. I do 1 gallon weekly and I have 5 gallons in case something does affect my tank rapidly. Ammonia alert badge helps watch this. Breakdown of how I have my tank stocked currently (understand that most of these are juveniles and will be moved into a larger tank within a year): 1 Platinum Perc, 1 Black Ocellaris (introduced simultaneously), yellow watchman goby, 4 sets of zoas, 2 leather corals, 4 species of mushrooms, one Kenya Tree frag, 2 inches of oolite sand, 12lbs of live rock. After multiple months of stable stock level, my only real issue was the polyclad flatworms snacking on my turbans (caught one and then restocked and caught the 2nd eating the new snails). I cannot stress this enough... invest in pipettes with 0.5ml increments marked on them. They are invaluable for dosing very small quantities of supplements and target feeding polyps. It might just be me, but all of it seems like a lot of water movement for such a small space. I haven't needed anything outside of my ACs for movement in my tank, but I am of the minimalist mentality anymore. When I used to run bigger tanks, I invested in all the various widgets, but I can't tell much difference between then and now in overall happiness of the inhabitants. This of course depends on your goal tank inhabitants. I am not saying to follow my model, but it is what has stabilized for me in the past 4 months. Average water Parameters: Ammonia 0 Nitrites 0 Nitrates 5, dKH 10, SG 1.023 Prior tanks included 1-55, 1-75, 2-29 and 3-5 gallon tanks Give it time, stock simply and slowly. Remember that only bad things happen quickly in a reef tank. Watch it like a hawk while things are acclimating and you will get to the point where you can see the the overall mood of the tank and if you need to do a water change. I have atomic purple zoas that I call my tank canary. If they are grumpy, I should probably check my parameters. Take everyone's advice with a grain of salt, some regurgitate what they have seen spammed, some have the research and some are just using their own experiences. In the end, it is your hobby and as long as you are happy with the tank that is what matters at the end of the day. This hobby is often only as complicated as you want to make it. |
Tags |
10 nano, 7.5 nano, nano, nano build, new tank |
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