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07/08/2014, 07:53 PM | #1 |
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Cycling question
Hey guys,
Pretty new to the whole saltwater deal, lots of experience with freshwater though. I've heard when it comes to cycling you're supposed to let it cycle for quite some time. I heard as much as 40 days. While it is cycling, is it just the water and the sand? What should be in my tank when the initial cycling is going on? Any help would be awesome. Thanks.
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07/08/2014, 08:46 PM | #2 |
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I'm a newbie as well, but my understanding is that you want everything that will eventually be in the tank sans livestock. So put in any rock, decorations, filters, ect.
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07/08/2014, 08:59 PM | #3 |
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First I am also fairly new to this, but I read these forums every day.
I agree with putting everything but living creatures in your tank. Are you using live sand or liverock to introduce bacteria? That can speed things up a little, but remember patience is key in this hobby. Start your cycle with a piece of shrimp or by ghost feeding ( feeding fish food even though there is nothing to eat, in a sense you are feeding a "ghost"). You should also get test kits ASAP. You will want to test for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate regularly, and record the results each day. When you see the ammonia spike your cycle has started, that will follow by a spike in nitrite, and then nitrate. Once ammonia and nitrite levels return to zero, your cycle is complete and you can SLOWLY start adding livestock. Do a fairly large water change before introducing your first creatures. Also, I recommend researching the tank transfer method before adding your first fish. Good luck!!! ZB |
07/08/2014, 09:06 PM | #4 |
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Cycles can last from days to months. Many variables. If your using live rock then you don't need to add an ammonia source. The dead bacteria and creatures within the rock will start off the cycle. If you use dead(base rock) then add the ammonia source but don't use the shrimp just the fish food and also it would help to add some lr pieces or rubble to speed it along with maybe a scoop of live sand from an established aquarium. Hope this helps
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07/08/2014, 09:07 PM | #5 |
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I say don't add shrimp because it can begin to smell. Had it happen before.
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07/09/2014, 07:45 AM | #6 | ||
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Quote:
Just remove it when it gets stinky. Quote:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1031074 |
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07/09/2014, 11:47 AM | #7 |
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i agree with the others. the longer you let it cycle the better itll turn out when you start adding things. try not to cycle with tap water because it will give you an intense algae bloom. go to an LFS and buy your water to cycle with, premixed saltwater or RODI to mix yourself. as far as sand and rock, you want about a pound per gallon of each. make sure you get your water tested after the first two weeks to see if the cycle has actually started, and after you get confirmation that it has, get it tested after another few weeks. if the cycle isnt going with just rock sand and water, throw a piece of food in the tank like they said. only one, or
it will stink everything up. make sure you have everything set up correctly before you begin your cycle so you dont have to go back and redo anything! |
07/11/2014, 09:47 AM | #8 |
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Very awesome guys. I really do appreciate all of the help. I was thinking about using just some non live sand and some live rock in the tank when I do get it going.
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07/11/2014, 12:26 PM | #9 |
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If u decide to use dry rock & sand, see if your LFS will give you a cup of live sand & buy a live rock from one of their tanks to help 'seed' your rock & sand. It'll help cycle a bit.
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07/11/2014, 12:37 PM | #10 |
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What do you guys think about using something like Stability to kick start the process? Thats what I used in my tank with base rock and dry sand. I ghost fed for an ammonium source and within a 2 weeks my nitrite had already gone away. I'm guessing there is a down-side or more people would recommend it?
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07/11/2014, 03:59 PM | #11 |
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What is an LFS? Sorry, still getting used to all the new phrases and such
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07/11/2014, 04:10 PM | #12 |
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Local fish store
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07/11/2014, 04:15 PM | #13 |
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Yeah, definitely a new guy right here, thanks leewish.
What do you guys think of filters for the tanks? I've read a little about them. I'm going to get an RODI filter for the water for sure. Does any powerful filter usually do the trick for the water though?
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07/11/2014, 05:09 PM | #14 |
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hey guys, not sure what rodi is cause i'm also new to this, but i just found out the hard way that damsels is not the way to go. thanks do the db's at my lfs for making a quick$
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07/11/2014, 05:10 PM | #15 |
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damsels came down with ich. so now i'm in the process of quarantine and treatment. i should have come here first
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07/11/2014, 05:19 PM | #16 |
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RO/DI units filter out bad chemicals from your water supply that would wreak havoc on your tank. btw, any LFS that says it's ok to cycle a tank w/ fish (even the devil damsels) is only concerned w/ taking your money, & not interested in the well being of the animals. Run in opposite direction from them...
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07/11/2014, 05:20 PM | #17 |
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I wouldn't waste your money on it. It might help with the cycle but its kind of pricey and it doesn't remove the nitrates so you would most likely end up with high nitrates.
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07/11/2014, 07:07 PM | #18 |
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You need live rock, live sand and RO/DI water ( reverse osmosis / deionized)
Do NOT use tap water under any circumstance...ever. You will have algae nightmares from all of the dissolved solids in them, Do not do water changes at all Do not add any livestock under ANY circumstances. The levels of ammonia nitrite and nitrate that will build up in the cycle are extremely toxic to livestock. Start the cycle by adding an ammonia source. Take a raw shrimp from the grocery store and put it in a media bag. Let it sit in there for 5-6 days. Take it out once it stinks. That creates your ammonia. You will see it elevate as you test. Nitrite then develops, which builds as well on the rock/sand. It begins destroying ammonia. You will then see ammonia and nitrite start going to zero and nitrate increasing. Once ammonia and nitrite are zero, start doing large water changes to Eliminate the nitrate. When your at zero for everything, your cycled. Now...if you buy pre cured live rock and you get it back under water in your tank from the LFS very quickly, you may have little to no cycle at all because the rock already has billions of nitrifying bacteria present on it. Patience is key...test frequently and ensure you are cycled before adding any livestock. |
07/11/2014, 07:11 PM | #19 |
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LFS = local fish store
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07/11/2014, 08:09 PM | #20 |
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Awesome! So live rock and live sand together? Or just one or the other?
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07/11/2014, 08:20 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
Yes you want about 1-2" of live sand in the bottom of your tank and about 3/4lbs of live rock per gallon. Remember when the rock goes in your tank, the space it takes up displaces water. So for example....I have a 70 gal tank but only 55lbs of rock. I maybe have 65 total gallons of water in the whole system between the display and a 20 gallon sump due to the displacement. |
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07/11/2014, 08:24 PM | #22 |
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I strongly suggest using pre cured rock for your very first tank. It makes things much easier as fas as cycling.
I had less then 30 min time from LFS to my home and got it in the tank and added the water. I literally had no cycle at all. I tested my water daily for a month...added ammonia sources....and always read zero. I had what some call an instant cycle. This is very rare but quite possible if you use pre cured rock. Always attempt to cycle your tank for 30 days no matter what. My circumstance was very uncommon. |
07/11/2014, 08:26 PM | #23 |
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What in the world is a sump?
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07/11/2014, 08:32 PM | #24 |
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Google aquarium sump....or watch a youtube video which is probably even better to understand how it works so you can see it in action, but I'll explain further....
It's a tank under your tank inside the stand. Having a "reef ready tank" is very helpful in this hobby. there is a drain built inside the tank called an overflow box. This drains water into the sump. You typical place some kind of mechanical filtration in the first entry chamber of the sump like filter floss or a filter sock to catch all the gunk (detritus) in the water. The first compartment after the water goes thru a mechanical filter holds the protein skimmer. The protein skimmer takes out dissolved organic material from the water and puts it into a collection cup. This is a VERY Critical piece of equipment in saltwater tanks. The water then passes thru small chambers called "baffles" that help eliminate bubbles in the water. Most people have a middle chamber called a Refugium. (You don't have to have one, but it's beneficial) The Refugium has sand and live rock in it along with a bunch of macro algae. This algae is actually good because it absorbs phosphate out of your water. It also houses cool little critters like Copepods. Think of a Refugium as the "green" way of keeping your tank clean of phosphate. The water then exits a Refugium and enters the return section. You place a return pump in there which pumps water back into your display thru a series of piping. By using a sump, you constantly filter and aerate your water. It keeps your tank healthy and clean. Last edited by Mcgeezer; 07/11/2014 at 08:38 PM. |
07/11/2014, 09:21 PM | #25 |
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Read the sticky on setting up a new tank for excellent info, too.
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I love me some wrasse... & laissez les bon temps rouler! Current Tank Info: 120 gal Vizio |
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