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Unread 10/24/2014, 06:57 PM   #1
geef64
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Which uv sterilizer

So i am doing a 180 build and trying to figure out what uv sterilizer to go with.

Needs to be big enough for the tank and not break the budget any suggestions or input would be great. Thanks


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Unread 10/24/2014, 07:05 PM   #2
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What is your budget?


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Unread 10/24/2014, 07:12 PM   #3
geef64
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Trying to stay under $250 but i know how this hobby is and you get what you pay for.


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Unread 10/24/2014, 07:15 PM   #4
lhm nole
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Aqua or emperor cant go wrong with either for you tank at least a 57 watt so would be around 400


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Unread 10/24/2014, 07:19 PM   #5
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Ok. Thanks I was looking at the coralife but did not know if they were worth anything and also the aqua


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Unread 10/27/2014, 04:31 PM   #6
Big_Boss_77
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Okay, how about a smaller one for 75 gallons of water. Any recommendations,or suggestions of what to stay away from?


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Unread 10/27/2014, 04:38 PM   #7
wooden_reefer
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The coralife spiral flow design does increase the path of travel and hence the dwell time.

I have 7 or more UVs, a few bought deliberately and a few obtained from "package deals".

A challenge would be to size one that is effective at reducing ich in the water.

Most UV sized against bacteria in the water (effectively) is not effective against ich.


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Unread 10/27/2014, 04:53 PM   #8
suthrnmn
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Ive run a 40 watt aqua on a 120 and on a 300. I think they can really help a tank....IF...and it is a BIG IF....you keep the lens clean....and the units with the wiper
do not work...I don't care what they tell you. So, if you don't mind the cleaning and you can over come the heat exchange...which btw is significant....they are useful. Now all that said....I do not use them anymore.....unless you are anticipating large fish populations and need the water polishing effect...and as stated earlier...the effect on ich is questionable....I would punt on the UV....good husbandry and patience will rule the day.


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Unread 10/27/2014, 05:02 PM   #9
wooden_reefer
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When QTing new fish for the first few weeks, I feel naked without my UV.

The UV does reduce the severity and/or frequency of external bacterial infection for the period when fish still have no antibodies due to lack of previous exposure.


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Unread 10/27/2014, 08:15 PM   #10
tkeracer619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wooden_reefer View Post
The coralife spiral flow design does increase the path of travel and hence the dwell time.
This is 100% marketing and defies physics. You cannot increase contact time by putting something in the way. Something in the way means less internal volume. Less internal volume + consistent feed rate = less contact time.

Yes, that is right, they reduced effectiveness to claim better effectiveness. Gotta love marketing!

UV is far and wide not used correctly in our hobby. What goals do you have for this unit? I see no evidence that a UV is required for a healthy thriving reef tank. Personally I would invest your money in a QT. It will be a better investment.


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Unread 10/28/2014, 01:22 AM   #11
Raul-7
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Emperor is better than AquaUV.

UV is all about dwell time, it needs to be slow enough to kill parasites but not slow enough to heat the water.


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Unread 10/28/2014, 05:25 AM   #12
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Just picked up a nice used aqua uv 25w for $80. Put a new bulb in, and have a nice new unit for $120. Look for a used one IMO cause these things are way overpriced. The quartz sleeve is replaceable and like $40, the bulb $40, and ballast $60. At $250 new for this unit, it's just silly to pay that for some plastic tubes.


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Unread 10/28/2014, 09:39 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raul-7 View Post
Emperor is better than AquaUV.

UV is all about dwell time, it needs to be slow enough to kill parasites but not slow enough to heat the water.
I feel AquaUV is Classic better if for only one key reason. They have a better parts distribution network which is important in my opinion. If you need parts, most large online retailers carry parts for the AquaUV line so no matter where you are located across the US, parts aren't too far away and are very reasonably priced. AquaUV also has the option of both large and small size inlet/outlet unions which lends to better flexibility when integrating with existing plumbing. That said, that may also be an option for Emperor Aquatics. Other than that, their design is very similar and from a functionality standpoint, they are nearly identical in their efficiency. Either one is by far better than any other UV sterilizer on the market.


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Unread 10/28/2014, 10:25 AM   #14
sowildpaul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slief View Post
I feel AquaUV is Classic better if for only one key reason. They have a better parts distribution network which is important in my opinion. If you need parts, most large online retailers carry parts for the AquaUV line so no matter where you are located across the US, parts aren't too far away and are very reasonably priced. AquaUV also has the option of both large and small size inlet/outlet unions which lends to better flexibility when integrating with existing plumbing. That said, that may also be an option for Emperor Aquatics. Other than that, their design is very similar and from a functionality standpoint, they are nearly identical in their efficiency. Either one is by far better than any other UV sterilizer on the market.
In your opinion, which one would be more effective, EA Smart HO 120 watts (one 120 watts lamp) or AquaUV Classic 120 watts (3 40 watts lamps)? Just asking.


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Unread 10/28/2014, 12:50 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suthrnmn View Post
the units with the wiper do not work...I don't care what they tell you.
They work to make you think you wont have to clean it.



Quote:
Originally Posted by tkeracer619 View Post
This is 100% marketing and defies physics. You cannot increase contact time by putting something in the way. Something in the way means less internal volume. Less internal volume + consistent feed rate = less contact time.

Yes, that is right, they reduced effectiveness to claim better effectiveness. Gotta love marketing!

UV is far and wide not used correctly in our hobby. What goals do you have for this unit? I see no evidence that a UV is required for a healthy thriving reef tank. Personally I would invest your money in a QT. It will be a better investment.
Uh, say again... I would invest your money in a QT

OK +1

But people say " I used UV for x years and never had..." But they don't know its because of UV. Lots have people have never had...in x years without UV too. You have to have in excess of a certain dosage to kill certain organisms and protozoa takes so much its much cheaper to just QT. UV is good in freshwater for free floating algea. IMO a waste in a reef tank. And I have been to UV system design classes taught by Emperor. Back when it was actually Emperor.


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Unread 10/28/2014, 01:06 PM   #16
suthrnmn
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GEFF....if you decide that you cant live with out one...send me a PM as I have a very low time bulb and new transformer on my 40w that Im not using. But.....Ive used them and
dont think they are worth the hassle (keeping the lense clean) and expense..additional electricity for uv and cooling...my 2%.


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Unread 10/28/2014, 01:15 PM   #17
slief
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sowildpaul View Post
In your opinion, which one would be more effective, EA Smart HO 120 watts (one 120 watts lamp) or AquaUV Classic 120 watts (3 40 watts lamps)? Just asking.
Both will be similarly effective from a wattage standpoint. The advantage of the Aqua UV is is shorter form factor and possibly longer dwell time due to using multiple bulbs. The ladder is just speculation though. On the other hand, the Aqua UV is taller so that could also be an issue where as length may not be. Watt for watt, I think they are equally effective.

As for suthrnmn's comment about the wipers not working.. I 1000000000% disagree. I have a 114 watt Aqua UV wiper version on my home tank and a 25 watt Aqua UV without the wiper at my office in a fish only system. From years of running and maintaining both of these, the wiper versions crystal sleeve is ALWAYS much cleaner than the non wipers sleeve. The non wiper version gets hard calcareous algae deposits all over it making it a pain to clean the sleeves. My wiper UV on my reef tank gets a fraction of the build up even with bi-weekly cleaning and despite with much higher calcium levels. That is FROM first hand experience with both the wiper and non wiper versions. As such, I much prefer the wiper version but if you want them to be effective, you need to use the wiper every week at the very least.

Personally, I like running UV's but I also don't expect miracles from them. In my reef tank, they are only a small part of my water quality and clarity approach. I also use carbon, filter socks and even have ozone plumbed in and ready to go if and when I feel I need it. I don't and never did employ the use of UV for ich control because it really doesn't do that effectively. I don't use the UV for full sterilization in my reef and instead choose a middle ground for flow rates because I don't want to kill every micro organism that passes through it. I do feel they are beneficial to a minor extent but certainly not an imperative part of a reef system. On my fish only systems, I run them at the slower rates for sterilization. On both tanks, I can see a noticeable difference in water clarity when the UV bulbs are replaced but at the same time, I don't replace the bulbs nearly as often as I should.


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Last edited by slief; 10/28/2014 at 01:23 PM.
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Unread 10/28/2014, 02:35 PM   #18
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The non wiper version gets hard calcareous algae deposits all over it making it a pain to clean the sleeves.
You say algae, but you mean just white stuff right? I wrap the sleeves with paper towels and then pour vinegar on them. Soak them a while and a scouring pad takes it off like a piece of cake.

And yes I am opposed to UV in reef tanks in most cases. The ones I do run are outdoor KOI for algae. And I'm not even positive they do much there. I can leave one off for a month in summer and nothing changes, but its municipal water pretty high in iron. Iron and a few other things including some biological compounds act like great sun screen with that color of light.


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Unread 10/28/2014, 02:44 PM   #19
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You say algae, but you mean just white stuff right? I wrap the sleeves with paper towels and then pour vinegar on them. Soak them a while and a scouring pad takes it off like a piece of cake.
Yes.. Sometimes it has a green tint to it but I liken it to coraline algae. I use the same paper towel & vinegar method. It's about the only way to remove it easily that I have found.


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Unread 10/28/2014, 02:55 PM   #20
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......so, are we getting a picture of the maintenance requirements for UV??...lol...with a wiper....with out a wiper....you will have to be the judge...I think Selif and Wolf can attest that keeping the lens clean equals WORK.


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Unread 10/28/2014, 03:00 PM   #21
wooden_reefer
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Originally Posted by tkeracer619 View Post
This is 100% marketing and defies physics. You cannot increase contact time by putting something in the way. Something in the way means less internal volume. Less internal volume + consistent feed rate = less contact time.

Yes, that is right, they reduced effectiveness to claim better effectiveness. Gotta love marketing!

UV is far and wide not used correctly in our hobby. What goals do you have for this unit? I see no evidence that a UV is required for a healthy thriving reef tank. Personally I would invest your money in a QT. It will be a better investment.
I am not so sure.

I have two Coralife UV's. The path is longer as the water travels in a spiral staircase fashsion around the UV bulb. The distance travelled is increased. I am only recently convinced of this advantage as I opened the unit.

One consideration is how deep the UV penetrates. It can be farther than the about half inch implied by most concentric tubes designs. Concentric designs often have the outside tube too small in diameter, perhaps. UV should be "fatter" in appearance perhaps.

The UV is a major component during QT.

I use UV in both QT and DT. Very effective in QT in cutting down waterborne bacteria.

It is my experience that UV is effective in limited but critical area of external bacterial infection of pathogenic bacteria toward which a fish has no previous exposure, and allowing limited exposure for antibodies to be developed, and that many appear to have rather strange opinion of the UV.


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Unread 10/28/2014, 04:04 PM   #22
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I think Selif and Wolf can attest that keeping the lens clean equals WORK.
Indeed it does as with anything in this hobby. If it is setup for easy maintenance it's very easy and quick. Then again, reef tanks in general require WORK and the UV is the least of it.
We must:
Keep our water clean
Keep our glass clean
Keep our substrait clean
Keep our pumps clean
Keep our skimmers clean
Keep our filter socks clean
Keep our sumps clean
Keep our UV crystal sleeves clean

As for cleaning the UV.. My 114 watt UV has 2 bulbs and two sleeves. The whole cleaning process takes 15-20 minutes total start to finish including the vinegar treatment. A chore I do every 4-6 months on my reef. I only run my UV 12 hours a day during the spring summer so that is generally enough maintenance on it.

Mine is setup for very easy maintenance which is important in my opinion.





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Unread 10/28/2014, 04:57 PM   #23
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.....since we are really chewing on this...did we happen to mention the plumbing issues and space requirements ....nice pic btw.


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Unread 10/28/2014, 05:02 PM   #24
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.....since we are really chewing on this...did we happen to mention the plumbing issues and space requirements ....nice pic btw.
Indeed a serious consideration. Something that played a role in my choice of which one to get. It can be very difficult to install a 1', 2', 3' or even 4' piece of plumbing such as a UV sterilzer on many systems. On my office tank, I have it hanging from the underside of the tank framing. Convenience is a must...



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Current Tank Info: 480G display mixed reef, 90G sump, 90G refugium, 60G display refugium. Check out my build thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1783476
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Unread 10/28/2014, 06:54 PM   #25
sowildpaul
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Both will be similarly effective from a wattage standpoint. The advantage of the Aqua UV is is shorter form factor and possibly longer dwell time due to using multiple bulbs. The ladder is just speculation though. On the other hand, the Aqua UV is taller so that could also be an issue where as length may not be. Watt for watt, I think they are equally effective.
For example; one 120 watts unit = ZAP while three 40 watts lamps unit = zap zap zap, isn't that how they should work?

Quote:
Originally Posted by slief View Post
As for suthrnmn's comment about the wipers not working.. I 1000000000% disagree. I have a 114 watt Aqua UV wiper version on my home tank and a 25 watt Aqua UV without the wiper at my office in a fish only system. From years of running and maintaining both of these, the wiper versions crystal sleeve is ALWAYS much cleaner than the non wipers sleeve. The non wiper version gets hard calcareous algae deposits all over it making it a pain to clean the sleeves. My wiper UV on my reef tank gets a fraction of the build up even with bi-weekly cleaning and despite with much higher calcium levels. That is FROM first hand experience with both the wiper and non wiper versions. As such, I much prefer the wiper version but if you want them to be effective, you need to use the wiper every week at the very least.
Are you aware that EA UV units with wipers are not recommended for saltwater? I wonder why not.

On its website;
Quote:
All SMART UV styles are available with quartz sleeve wiper modules for removing soft waste deposits without interrupting UV operation. NOTE: Wipers are NOT recommended for saltwater applications.



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