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Unread 10/30/2014, 12:16 PM   #1
Traviswc
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Central Arizona
Posts: 30
New Nano Tank Issue - Advice?

Hi All, I have been a member of this forum for quite some time now, however I don't believe I have ever posted before... That being said, I want to say a huge THANK YOU for all of the information you have all provided over the years.

Long story short: I have been out of the Hobby for a few years so needing some refresher info, so please bear with me... I will try and be as detailed as possible...

New Set-up, started aprox 1.5 month ago;
21 Gallon Aqua Top (Similar to Bio-Cube)
>Integrated LED lighting - Blue and White (Can't remember the wattage off hand)
25 LB of Live Rock, already cycled
1 Colony of Green Star Polyps (About the size of a child's fist)
1 Frag of Polyps
1 Frag of Duncans (purchased with a single head, already has 2 small ones coming off)
-Fish-
2 Damsels (Purchased from the LFS to help est. tank, they will be going back)
1 Scooter Blenny
-Cleaning Crew-
1 Turbo Snail
1 Narcissus Snail
2 Margarita Snails

OK - Now for the issue....
My Star Polyp opened when I first got it within the first 2 hours after acclimation, everything seemed great. As the last week has progressed he no longer opens, AT ALL! After reading some of the info on the forums here, I checked all my levels and everything seemed okay. Went to the LFS to get some RO for top off and told them as well, they asked me to bring in a water samle for them to test and compare to my findings.
-My Test Kit Read As Follows-
Ammonia - 0
NO2 - 0
NO3 - 5 (New tank, so expected this to be lower)
PH - 8.4-8.5
Salinity - 1.024-1.025
Temp Stays at 76.5 - 77.5
- LFS Test Kit -
AM - 0
NO2 - 0
NO3 - 0
PH - 8.4
ALK - 9
Calcium - 330 (Low)
MG - 1000 (Low)
Salinity - 1.019

So after discussing why the Calcium and Magnesium were low, this is what we came up with... Change salt to Red Sea Pro (Currently using.. Don't judge... Instant Ocean) for future water changes and re-calibrate Hydrometer (thinking of buying a Refractometer but have not yet)

Their Suggestions as far as why the Green Star's aren't opening...
Day 1 - Do a 5g water change with pre-mixed (Red Sea Pro) salt water VERY SLOW
Day 2 - Do another 5g water change (Same as above)

I have already done these things (day 2 was yesterday)but the Polyps still aren't open. I know it may take a day or two, but wanted some other feedback to see if there were any other suggestions or just to wait it out?

Sorry for the lengthy post, but appreciate your info!

Thank you,
Travis.


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Unread 10/30/2014, 12:21 PM   #2
Traviswc
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Central Arizona
Posts: 30
Also, I forgot, this is important...

Flow\Filtration
1 Power Head (Pointed at live rock but not at the corals)
Integrated Filtration baskets in the back of the tank by the skimmer
Top to Bottom,
Filter Floss
Bio-Balls
Chemi-Pro media bag
Bio-Balls
Seachem de-nitrate bag


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Unread 10/30/2014, 01:14 PM   #3
thegrun
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Garden Grove, Ca
Posts: 17,023
How much flow do you have (in GPH)? Is there any way to find the LED wattage? How long and at what intensity are you running your LEDs? Those items may be the cause, but I suspect that if your salinity is at 1.019, that is the problem. Get a refractometer and calibration fluid asap! If the salinity is that low, start using saltwater to top off with, you do not want to raise the salinity too quickly or the cure will do more harm than good.


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Unread 10/30/2014, 01:29 PM   #4
Traviswc
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Central Arizona
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by thegrun View Post
How much flow do you have (in GPH)? Is there any way to find the LED wattage? How long and at what intensity are you running your LEDs? Those items may be the cause, but I suspect that if your salinity is at 1.019, that is the problem. Get a refractometer and calibration fluid asap! If the salinity is that low, start using saltwater to top off with, you do not want to raise the salinity too quickly or the cure will do more harm than good.
Agreed, I was using a hydrometer and didn't even think that I would need to see if it was off... Lesson learned.

To add the new 10g of salt water (1.025 sg) I did a very slow drip, literally added 5g over aprox 8 hours. then the second batch the next night.

GPH is 240 (http://www.reefhotspot.com/store/pro...oducts_id=9506)

I don't know the exact wattage of the lights, however here is what their website says:
PAR values are as follows (distance below water line - both lights on):
4 inches - 180
8 inches - 120
12 inches - 80
Bottom of tank:70

I keep the blue atinics on from 8am - 12pm and Whites on From 10am - 8pm


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Unread 10/30/2014, 01:38 PM   #5
thegrun
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Garden Grove, Ca
Posts: 17,023
I would double or even triple the GPH when you get a chance but that is not the cause of your current problems. While not strong, your lights should be sufficient for your corals, stay away from corals needing high amounts of lighting. Your calcium and magnesium levels will rise when you get your salinity right, so don't worry about them yet (retest after correcting the salinity).


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Unread 10/30/2014, 02:11 PM   #6
Traviswc
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Central Arizona
Posts: 30
Do you really think I should have that much flow in such a small tank? 21G 17.5" Cube - So with the Powerhead (240 GPH)+ Internal Filtration (aprox 150GPH) = 390gph

Also, I was under the impression the GSP's like a lower flow?


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