There is an alternative to open top tanks: but....

Sk8r · 11/21/2014, 02:29 PM

You do need a) heat relief and b) gas exchange at the water surface.

I have an Aquavim tank with a glass top and canopy, which worried me when I learned it was glued in (very thick glass). But it has removeable sections, one of which lets the downflow breathe, one of which lets the light kit with its own glass bottom sit there without thick glass affecting the light distribution. And I have fans. And a powerhead midway down aimed at the surface. I use metal halides, and the heat is not a problem.

There are also some little feeding/power cord holes at the side. I do not have a problem with overheating.

When I started this, you had to rig up computer fans to keep your tank from overheating. But somebody has now gotten clever and built fan arrays you can fit to your canopy and your tank, and these will be a significant help.

Likewise, those of you who live in zones that may require a cooler: putting one of these 4-fan units on your sump area might solve your problem. Put it on the same power supply as your lights, perhaps, or not, as needed.

PIPSTER · 11/21/2014, 02:38 PM

What I worry about is reading about people complaining about humidity in the winter when A\C isn't running, and everything rusting, like the air handler in the furnace, window frames, etc...

If I cover my DT (mostly), but leave the sump uncovered, won't that promote enough gas exchange? If it never gets above 79 degrees in my house, and I use LED lights, no halides, will cooling be an issue?

Sk8r · 11/21/2014, 02:45 PM

It probably will---to all your questions.

There are several practical answers that don't cost too much. For the humidity problem---I have a large open sump in my basement WITH a library and foodstuffs. I got a Whirlpool dehumidifier for far less than I thought it would be, and it doesn't draw a huge amount of power, either. It yanks gallons of water out of the environment down there, and you can dial how much it takes out. So if humidity is an issue---try that. At a couple of hundred dollars plus power, it's far cheaper than a rust issue. http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-AD50...l+dehumidifier

Re the cooling issue, try it just on the sump, but be prepared to add a fan kit to the top if that isn't enough, or run the fan kit on the sump 24/7, so that running it with the lights off will finally hit an acceptable average. Balancing day-night temperature can be a challenge, and spreading out the input to several sources of heat/cooling is usually helpful, but ultimately it might balance.

Teenreefer15 · 11/21/2014, 04:43 PM

The dehumidifier is a great idea.

gone fishin · 11/21/2014, 05:03 PM

My fish room is in the basement. With the dehumidifier one would not even now it is there.

11/21/2014, 02:29 PM	#1
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	There is an alternative to open top tanks: but.... You do need a) heat relief and b) gas exchange at the water surface. I have an Aquavim tank with a glass top and canopy, which worried me when I learned it was glued in (very thick glass). But it has removeable sections, one of which lets the downflow breathe, one of which lets the light kit with its own glass bottom sit there without thick glass affecting the light distribution. And I have fans. And a powerhead midway down aimed at the surface. I use metal halides, and the heat is not a problem. There are also some little feeding/power cord holes at the side. I do not have a problem with overheating. When I started this, you had to rig up computer fans to keep your tank from overheating. But somebody has now gotten clever and built fan arrays you can fit to your canopy and your tank, and these will be a significant help. Likewise, those of you who live in zones that may require a cooler: putting one of these 4-fan units on your sump area might solve your problem. Put it on the same power supply as your lights, perhaps, or not, as needed. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

11/21/2014, 02:45 PM	#3
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	It probably will---to all your questions. There are several practical answers that don't cost too much. For the humidity problem---I have a large open sump in my basement WITH a library and foodstuffs. I got a Whirlpool dehumidifier for far less than I thought it would be, and it doesn't draw a huge amount of power, either. It yanks gallons of water out of the environment down there, and you can dial how much it takes out. So if humidity is an issue---try that. At a couple of hundred dollars plus power, it's far cheaper than a rust issue. http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-AD50...l+dehumidifier Re the cooling issue, try it just on the sump, but be prepared to add a fan kit to the top if that isn't enough, or run the fan kit on the sump 24/7, so that running it with the lights off will finally hit an acceptable average. Balancing day-night temperature can be a challenge, and spreading out the input to several sources of heat/cooling is usually helpful, but ultimately it might balance. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

11/21/2014, 05:03 PM	#5
gone fishin Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Wyocena Wi Posts: 6,936	My fish room is in the basement. With the dehumidifier one would not even now it is there. __________________ Tony Current Tank Info: 180gal DT, BM NAC77 skimmer,3 Maxspect razors, Maxspect Gyre 150, 30g QT

11/21/2014, 02:38 PM	#2
PIPSTER Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 291	What I worry about is reading about people complaining about humidity in the winter when A\C isn't running, and everything rusting, like the air handler in the furnace, window frames, etc... If I cover my DT (mostly), but leave the sump uncovered, won't that promote enough gas exchange? If it never gets above 79 degrees in my house, and I use LED lights, no halides, will cooling be an issue?

11/21/2014, 04:43 PM	#4
Teenreefer15 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: New Jersey Posts: 479	The dehumidifier is a great idea.