equipment decesions

dutchbro14 · 01/02/2015, 02:00 AM

i have a few conflicts going on right now...yesterday i did all the calculations on exactly the products i was getting and got a total of around 2 grand for a total start up cost. trust me i cried a little inside, but it made me reconsider a few things

one is that if im gonna throw around this much cash, i might as well inject some more and hop on the led train. whats a good led fixture for under or at 400? ive come to terms radions are out of the price range. i looked at kessils alot, but i was concerned about dark spots and too much shimmer.....too many variables that i wouldnt be happy with it. it also needs to be powerful enough for sps growth...

second is the tank itself. i picked up a 55 at the dollar per gallon sale (tempered glass). i came to the realization as to why the hell im gonna go with a hob overflow when i have so much at risk with a flood. im looking still at a 48" tank, does anyone know a place to get non tempered glass or acrylic aquariums for a good price?

more questions might be on the way, thinking this might belong in the "new to the hobby" section, eh. thanks for your guys time

potterjon · 01/02/2015, 08:50 AM

This may not answer your question, but if I were you I would definitely get a tank that is drilled or "reef ready" for a sump. You will not regret it. You will regret a hang on the back style overflow box. It is not a question of "if" it will flood but a question of "when". Not to mention the salt spray all over the place from those things. Just my humble opinion. Another suggestion I have is to start slow. I would not recommend buying the whole set up at once. I would allow yourself to grow in to it. You don't have to buy lights for corals at first and you don't have to buy all the rock at once. You can add rock as you add livestock,etc.
It has taken me years to go from a 29 gallon to a 55 gallon and then a 90 and now a 150 gallon. I never add up my costs as it would just freak me out and I don't think I ever could have purchased it all at once. If I had , I would have made many mistakes pertaining to what equipment suited my needs.

Mrramsey · 01/02/2015, 09:10 AM

A lot is going to depend on what you want to keep. Fish only easier to keep less equipment etc. Reef tank is a whole other animal. If you want a reef I'd steer clear of a 55 IMO. Too narrow front to back. I settled on a 120 48x24x24 but was originally looking at a 90 48x24x18. Both make great reef tanks. I use reefbreeder photon 48 LED and am very happy with it. However if you are not doing a reef then any lights will do since you would not be growing corals.

dutchbro14 · 01/02/2015, 05:15 PM

definitely wanna do a reef, and yea im looking at tank with more dimensions now. 13 inches just isnt enougb for depth. im gonna use the month of cycling to get all my equipment to try and spread out the costs.
potter you reccomended a rr tank, my only problem with that is i dont wanna spend over 200 on the tank alone, so i was thinking to get a regular glass and have a glass shop drill it for me and then install bulkheads. kinda thinking about a 90 gallon now. ive already started on the stand

anyone have experience with ai hydras? noticed tank of the month has them. ramsey you have photons in your bio, how are those? any sps?

YoungREEFA · 01/02/2015, 05:44 PM

Drill a tank yourself, petco has the dollar per gallon right now, I would pick up a 40 breeder

Mrramsey · 01/02/2015, 06:07 PM

I have the photon 48 over my 120g yes. I have some monties that are doing rather well but mostly softies, mushrooms, zoos, clove polyps and some Xenia. I run the lights at maybe 50% max tops so there is a lot of room to grow. They are very well made. I was really impressed when I got it. My nems really like it.

Drilling the tank is pretty easy. I did my 120. Was nervous as hell on the first hole but going slow is key. I think a 90 is a good tank same footprint as a 75 but taller of I recall correctly.

dutchbro14 · 01/02/2015, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mrramsey

Drilling the tank is pretty easy. I did my 120. Was nervous as hell on the first hole but going slow is key. I think a 90 is a good tank same footprint as a 75 but taller of I recall correctly.

can i ask where you got yours? narrowed it down to a 75 or 90...will probably drill it myself too.

Mrramsey · 01/02/2015, 06:30 PM

I happened to find one of those diamond in the rough deals on craigslist. A guy bought a new tank, sand , overflows, pumps, Fromm and stand in 2006. Never got it set up. I bought OT for 400. Sold and traded PFF what I didn't want. Like you I just transitioned from freshwater. There are deals out there if you are patient. If I remember correctlyohgi I was going to get a 90g RR from my LFS thinking it was $350 ish. It was an aqueon tank.

ChevyAddiction · 01/02/2015, 06:37 PM

I don't know where you are located, but check craigslist and local forums for tanks for sale. RR 90 gallons don't usually cost a lot used.

dutchbro14 · 01/02/2015, 07:23 PM

craigslist is a dream lol. just found a 90 gallon drilled for about 150, checking it out tomorrow. but you guys gotta check out this one deal i found....210 gallon established tank for 1000. lights, equipment fish corals and all, shame i dont have room for a tank that big.

Mrramsey · 01/02/2015, 07:34 PM

Very good man. Here are a couple things to check in a used tank.

1. Sometimes the seller will fill if asked. This time of year maybe not.

2. Check the frame for cracks and damage. If its cracked best to move on.

3. Check the caulking. It should be smooth and in tact. Not chewed or rough. Look closely at the glass where the joint is. Look for any bubbling in the silicone between the glass. There should be none. If there is use caution and pass.

4. Scratches. Light one are of no consequence but of you can feel it with a rub of your fingernail you will see it when full of water. Just an eyesore but a bargaining chip if its not dead center of the view.

5. Chips and cracks, look closely around the bulkheads. Even a seemingly minute hairline can prove disastrous.

Make sure they never used it for reptiles. You can go fish to reptile but not reptile to fish.

In the end you ate the one assuming all of the risk so don't be afraid to offer less if necessary. Good luck and have fun!

dutchbro14 · 01/03/2015, 12:25 AM

thanks for the tips ramsey, really thankful for all the help so far

dealer is 5 mins away from my house and recently upgraded to a bigger tank, said this one was only decommissioned 2 days ago. fingers crossed, ill update tomorrow...hopefully i can start working on my sump and plumbing tomorrow too if all goes well

potterjon · 01/03/2015, 10:38 AM

The problem with used tanks can be that they may have been used with copper. Never can really tell though. Sometimes the silicone will turn a little green but that's is after a lot of copper.
Glass-holes.com sells drilling kits with the bit and overflow box. I think you will be much happier if you buy one already drilled through the bottom. I think 90 gallons all have tempered glass on the bottom, so you can't really drill the bottom. Therefore, you have to drill the back, which is fine but now all your plumbing has to come out the back and not the bottom. Simply not as clean of a look and has to pulled away from the wall more, or your stand has to be built to hide the plumbing if you don't want to see it. Just my 2 cent. And of course, I may be wrong about tempered glass in the bottom but it is hard to tell from different companies making tanks differently.
MRRamsey, where did you drill your 120 and what did you use for an overflow box. Also what is the box rated for flow?

Mrramsey · 01/03/2015, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by potterjon

The problem with used tanks can be that they may have been used with copper. Never can really tell though. Sometimes the silicone will turn a little green but that's is after a lot of copper.
Glass-holes.com sells drilling kits with the bit and overflow box. I think you will be much happier if you buy one already drilled through the bottom. I think 90 gallons all have tempered glass on the bottom, so you can't really drill the bottom. Therefore, you have to drill the back, which is fine but now all your plumbing has to come out the back and not the bottom. Simply not as clean of a look and has to pulled away from the wall more, or your stand has to be built to hide the plumbing if you don't want to see it. Just my 2 cent. And of course, I may be wrong about tempered glass in the bottom but it is hard to tell from different companies making tanks differently.
MRRamsey, where did you drill your 120 and what did you use for an overflow box. Also what is the box rated for flow?

I drilled mine in the back for a custom BeanAnimal overflow. My overflow box is 36" long x 4" deep and 5" high. I run it silently at ~8-900gph.

Here it is old pics but you get the idea -

potterjon · 01/03/2015, 10:50 AM

Ah, nice! You have a fish room! So that makes perfect sense.

Thanks for the response

Mrramsey · 01/03/2015, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by potterjon

Ah, nice! You have a fish room! So that makes perfect sense.

Thanks for the response

Yes albeit a small one. I managed to build it all in an area of ~6'x7'. Complete with ATO, 32g RO Storage, 32g Salt Mixing, RO/DI unit, 10g QT. My Sump is completely open and not under the tank at all. Its actually quite adequate as far as the space.

My QT is right below the RO unit.

moondoggy4 · 01/03/2015, 11:22 AM

the best way to do a build is try to get a realy good idea what you want to get and make out a shopping list.

Build up your post and 90 days so you can buy used. Ask more questions like the one you posted, time to learn

Don't buy in a particular order; the sump might come up before the tank does

Look into MH and or ATI or Let DIY T-5 in a canopy. I am doing a 40 breeder SPS tank and I almost have everything ready to go.

potterjon · 01/03/2015, 11:44 AM

I have fish room envy

And plus one to using the sales section in this forum. There are some great deals to be had.

dutchbro14 · 01/03/2015, 03:32 PM

decided to buy on the 90 gallon today, ill post pics in a sec. totally forgot to ask if it ever recived a copper treatment.im sure its fine though, guy didnt seem like a total idiot.

right now im cleaning and theres alot of calcium and coraline algae all over the overflow, im been rubbing with a metal brush and vinegar, and other suggestions on getting it off?

also going to reseal the caulking to be on the safe side, do i just go over it with a new caulk? old stuff is thin and looks crappy from saltwater corrosion.

dutchbro14 · 01/03/2015, 03:39 PM

caulking

the wrapped up paper towel is drenched with vinegar and is just up against the calcium

Mrramsey · 01/03/2015, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dutchbro14

decided to buy on the 90 gallon today, ill post pics in a sec. totally forgot to ask if it ever recived a copper treatment.im sure its fine though, guy didnt seem like a total idiot.

right now im cleaning and theres alot of calcium and coraline algae all over the overflow, im been rubbing with a metal brush and vinegar, and other suggestions on getting it off?

also going to reseal the caulking to be on the safe side, do i just go over it with a new caulk? old stuff is thin and looks crappy from saltwater corrosion.

You can't just caulk over the top. Silicone will not adhere to silicone.

dutchbro14 · 01/03/2015, 06:56 PM

just peel it off and relayer then?

Mrramsey · 01/03/2015, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dutchbro14

just peel it off and relayer then?

Yes you would have to cut it out and clean really well. I have never done it bit there are several threads on it.

dutchbro14 · 01/04/2015, 01:53 AM

cut out all the other silicone, gonna reseal tomorrow along with waterproofing and painting the stand

dutchbro14 · 01/04/2015, 01:56 AM

does anyone know how to get calcium and coraline off a plastic overflow? i got it off glass but nothings coming off this overflow, thinking about just leaving it....

01/02/2015, 02:00 AM	#1
dutchbro14 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 34	equipment decesions i have a few conflicts going on right now...yesterday i did all the calculations on exactly the products i was getting and got a total of around 2 grand for a total start up cost. trust me i cried a little inside, but it made me reconsider a few things one is that if im gonna throw around this much cash, i might as well inject some more and hop on the led train. whats a good led fixture for under or at 400? ive come to terms radions are out of the price range. i looked at kessils alot, but i was concerned about dark spots and too much shimmer.....too many variables that i wouldnt be happy with it. it also needs to be powerful enough for sps growth... second is the tank itself. i picked up a 55 at the dollar per gallon sale (tempered glass). i came to the realization as to why the hell im gonna go with a hob overflow when i have so much at risk with a flood. im looking still at a 48" tank, does anyone know a place to get non tempered glass or acrylic aquariums for a good price? more questions might be on the way, thinking this might belong in the "new to the hobby" section, eh. thanks for your guys time

01/02/2015, 09:10 AM	#3
Mrramsey NEO Reefer Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Hudson Ohio Posts: 1,801	A lot is going to depend on what you want to keep. Fish only easier to keep less equipment etc. Reef tank is a whole other animal. If you want a reef I'd steer clear of a 55 IMO. Too narrow front to back. I settled on a 120 48x24x24 but was originally looking at a 90 48x24x18. Both make great reef tanks. I use reefbreeder photon 48 LED and am very happy with it. However if you are not doing a reef then any lights will do since you would not be growing corals. __________________ Mike My 120 Build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2389417 Current Tank Info: 120g In-Wall \| BA Overflow \| 55g Sump \| SWC Extreme 150 Skimmer \| DIY ATO \| 2 Jebao RW-8\| Fluval SP6 \| Photon 48v2 LED \| GFO and Carbon

01/02/2015, 06:07 PM	#6
Mrramsey NEO Reefer Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Hudson Ohio Posts: 1,801	I have the photon 48 over my 120g yes. I have some monties that are doing rather well but mostly softies, mushrooms, zoos, clove polyps and some Xenia. I run the lights at maybe 50% max tops so there is a lot of room to grow. They are very well made. I was really impressed when I got it. My nems really like it. Drilling the tank is pretty easy. I did my 120. Was nervous as hell on the first hole but going slow is key. I think a 90 is a good tank same footprint as a 75 but taller of I recall correctly. __________________ Mike My 120 Build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2389417 Current Tank Info: 120g In-Wall \| BA Overflow \| 55g Sump \| SWC Extreme 150 Skimmer \| DIY ATO \| 2 Jebao RW-8\| Fluval SP6 \| Photon 48v2 LED \| GFO and Carbon

01/02/2015, 06:30 PM	#8
Mrramsey NEO Reefer Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Hudson Ohio Posts: 1,801	I happened to find one of those diamond in the rough deals on craigslist. A guy bought a new tank, sand , overflows, pumps, Fromm and stand in 2006. Never got it set up. I bought OT for 400. Sold and traded PFF what I didn't want. Like you I just transitioned from freshwater. There are deals out there if you are patient. If I remember correctlyohgi I was going to get a 90g RR from my LFS thinking it was $350 ish. It was an aqueon tank. __________________ Mike My 120 Build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2389417 Current Tank Info: 120g In-Wall \| BA Overflow \| 55g Sump \| SWC Extreme 150 Skimmer \| DIY ATO \| 2 Jebao RW-8\| Fluval SP6 \| Photon 48v2 LED \| GFO and Carbon

01/02/2015, 07:34 PM	#11
Mrramsey NEO Reefer Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Hudson Ohio Posts: 1,801	Very good man. Here are a couple things to check in a used tank. 1. Sometimes the seller will fill if asked. This time of year maybe not. 2. Check the frame for cracks and damage. If its cracked best to move on. 3. Check the caulking. It should be smooth and in tact. Not chewed or rough. Look closely at the glass where the joint is. Look for any bubbling in the silicone between the glass. There should be none. If there is use caution and pass. 4. Scratches. Light one are of no consequence but of you can feel it with a rub of your fingernail you will see it when full of water. Just an eyesore but a bargaining chip if its not dead center of the view. 5. Chips and cracks, look closely around the bulkheads. Even a seemingly minute hairline can prove disastrous. Make sure they never used it for reptiles. You can go fish to reptile but not reptile to fish. In the end you ate the one assuming all of the risk so don't be afraid to offer less if necessary. Good luck and have fun! __________________ Mike My 120 Build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2389417 Current Tank Info: 120g In-Wall \| BA Overflow \| 55g Sump \| SWC Extreme 150 Skimmer \| DIY ATO \| 2 Jebao RW-8\| Fluval SP6 \| Photon 48v2 LED \| GFO and Carbon

01/02/2015, 08:50 AM	#2
potterjon Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Asheville,NC Posts: 933	This may not answer your question, but if I were you I would definitely get a tank that is drilled or "reef ready" for a sump. You will not regret it. You will regret a hang on the back style overflow box. It is not a question of "if" it will flood but a question of "when". Not to mention the salt spray all over the place from those things. Just my humble opinion. Another suggestion I have is to start slow. I would not recommend buying the whole set up at once. I would allow yourself to grow in to it. You don't have to buy lights for corals at first and you don't have to buy all the rock at once. You can add rock as you add livestock,etc. It has taken me years to go from a 29 gallon to a 55 gallon and then a 90 and now a 150 gallon. I never add up my costs as it would just freak me out and I don't think I ever could have purchased it all at once. If I had , I would have made many mistakes pertaining to what equipment suited my needs.

01/02/2015, 05:15 PM	#4
dutchbro14 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 34	definitely wanna do a reef, and yea im looking at tank with more dimensions now. 13 inches just isnt enougb for depth. im gonna use the month of cycling to get all my equipment to try and spread out the costs. potter you reccomended a rr tank, my only problem with that is i dont wanna spend over 200 on the tank alone, so i was thinking to get a regular glass and have a glass shop drill it for me and then install bulkheads. kinda thinking about a 90 gallon now. ive already started on the stand anyone have experience with ai hydras? noticed tank of the month has them. ramsey you have photons in your bio, how are those? any sps?

01/02/2015, 05:44 PM	#5
YoungREEFA Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Indianapolis IN Posts: 895	Drill a tank yourself, petco has the dollar per gallon right now, I would pick up a 40 breeder

01/02/2015, 06:37 PM	#9
ChevyAddiction Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Delta Posts: 89	I don't know where you are located, but check craigslist and local forums for tanks for sale. RR 90 gallons don't usually cost a lot used.

01/02/2015, 07:23 PM	#10
dutchbro14 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 34	craigslist is a dream lol. just found a 90 gallon drilled for about 150, checking it out tomorrow. but you guys gotta check out this one deal i found....210 gallon established tank for 1000. lights, equipment fish corals and all, shame i dont have room for a tank that big.

01/03/2015, 12:25 AM	#12
dutchbro14 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 34	thanks for the tips ramsey, really thankful for all the help so far dealer is 5 mins away from my house and recently upgraded to a bigger tank, said this one was only decommissioned 2 days ago. fingers crossed, ill update tomorrow...hopefully i can start working on my sump and plumbing tomorrow too if all goes well

01/03/2015, 10:38 AM	#13
potterjon Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Asheville,NC Posts: 933	The problem with used tanks can be that they may have been used with copper. Never can really tell though. Sometimes the silicone will turn a little green but that's is after a lot of copper. Glass-holes.com sells drilling kits with the bit and overflow box. I think you will be much happier if you buy one already drilled through the bottom. I think 90 gallons all have tempered glass on the bottom, so you can't really drill the bottom. Therefore, you have to drill the back, which is fine but now all your plumbing has to come out the back and not the bottom. Simply not as clean of a look and has to pulled away from the wall more, or your stand has to be built to hide the plumbing if you don't want to see it. Just my 2 cent. And of course, I may be wrong about tempered glass in the bottom but it is hard to tell from different companies making tanks differently. MRRamsey, where did you drill your 120 and what did you use for an overflow box. Also what is the box rated for flow?

01/03/2015, 10:50 AM	#15
potterjon Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Asheville,NC Posts: 933	Ah, nice! You have a fish room! So that makes perfect sense. Thanks for the response

01/03/2015, 11:22 AM	#17
moondoggy4 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: menifee So cal Posts: 11,042	the best way to do a build is try to get a realy good idea what you want to get and make out a shopping list. Build up your post and 90 days so you can buy used. Ask more questions like the one you posted, time to learn Don't buy in a particular order; the sump might come up before the tank does Look into MH and or ATI or Let DIY T-5 in a canopy. I am doing a 40 breeder SPS tank and I almost have everything ready to go.

01/03/2015, 11:44 AM	#18
potterjon Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Asheville,NC Posts: 933	I have fish room envy And plus one to using the sales section in this forum. There are some great deals to be had.

01/03/2015, 03:32 PM	#19
dutchbro14 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 34	decided to buy on the 90 gallon today, ill post pics in a sec. totally forgot to ask if it ever recived a copper treatment.im sure its fine though, guy didnt seem like a total idiot. right now im cleaning and theres alot of calcium and coraline algae all over the overflow, im been rubbing with a metal brush and vinegar, and other suggestions on getting it off? also going to reseal the caulking to be on the safe side, do i just go over it with a new caulk? old stuff is thin and looks crappy from saltwater corrosion.

01/03/2015, 03:39 PM	#20
dutchbro14 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 34	caulking the wrapped up paper towel is drenched with vinegar and is just up against the calcium Last edited by dutchbro14; 01/03/2015 at 03:51 PM.

01/03/2015, 06:56 PM	#22
dutchbro14 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 34	just peel it off and relayer then?

01/04/2015, 01:53 AM	#24
dutchbro14 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 34	cut out all the other silicone, gonna reseal tomorrow along with waterproofing and painting the stand

01/04/2015, 01:56 AM	#25
dutchbro14 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Posts: 34	does anyone know how to get calcium and coraline off a plastic overflow? i got it off glass but nothings coming off this overflow, thinking about just leaving it....