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01/26/2015, 11:33 AM | #1 |
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Live Rock Vs. Dry Rock
Ok it has been a little while since I have been in the hobby (7 Years) and some things have changed or I wasn't aware of them back then LOL... For the experienced reefers what do you suggest I start my tank with 1.) Live wet rock from my local LFS or 2.) Dry Rock that can be purchased on line? I guess my only concern about the dry rock is how long will it take before it starts showing signs of life? Suggestions??
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01/26/2015, 11:36 AM | #2 |
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Dry Rock.
Less chance of pest hitchhikers and it will become "live" by the beginning of the end of your cycle. you will get an abundance of life simply from getting corals, inverts and if you will have a refugium Chaeto or cualerpa algae.
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“For most of history, man has had to fight nature to survive; in this century he is beginning to realize that, in order to survive, he must protect it.”― Jacques-Yves Cousteau MarineBio.org Current Tank Info: 40 Gallon Breeder w/ Bean Animal Overflow 20G Sump, Mixed Reef. |
01/26/2015, 11:38 AM | #3 |
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I don't believe the dry rock will ever show signs of life unless you seed it. So if you need a lot of rock, order the dry rock for "base rock" and then buy some live rock at a local fish store. Could just be one piece so the living stuff will spread on the other rocks. If you are wondering when they'll be covered in coraline algae that might take quite awhile.
edit: if you mean "live" as in doing it's job in the tank cycling then it works like live rock. |
01/26/2015, 11:41 AM | #4 | |
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EDIT: that is if you introduce a form of ammonia of course
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“For most of history, man has had to fight nature to survive; in this century he is beginning to realize that, in order to survive, he must protect it.”― Jacques-Yves Cousteau MarineBio.org Current Tank Info: 40 Gallon Breeder w/ Bean Animal Overflow 20G Sump, Mixed Reef. |
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01/26/2015, 12:00 PM | #5 | |
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01/26/2015, 12:19 PM | #6 |
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I'm one who likes live rock and that's how I start every tank.
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01/26/2015, 12:54 PM | #7 |
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Thank you all for your reply's.. I'm leaning towards the dry rock because it looks like I can take my time with it in doing the aquascaping. I have a 90 gallon tank that will be circulating through a 29 gallon sump/refuge with a skimmer/heater etc. I am looking to try my hand at soft corals and work my way up to the hard ones. In my last set up I used live rock and didn't have any issues, but the aquascaping was done on the fly and never really had time to work with it. Since I am in a new build I have plenty of time to get it set up like I want it Just spent the 1st month building the stand and canopy Starting on the sump this week. If I do go with the Dry rock then I just need to cycle with a dead shrimp or ammonia additive correct?
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01/26/2015, 01:01 PM | #8 |
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If I could start over I would buy almost all dry rock and then either get a small live rock or buy something like bio-spira.
For one, the dry rock I bought from BRS looks 1000% better than the majority of live rock I've seen at LFSs near me. This is the one I bought to see if I liked it: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-re...live-rock.html It is exactly what they picture, tons of nooks & crannies for critters and extremely good looking. It's also very cheap compared to what I spent on live rock (although you can sometimes find bulk deals on Craigslist). The BFS reef saver can be put straight into water and you don't have to worry about leeching phosphates and stuff. |
01/26/2015, 01:10 PM | #9 |
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Thanks for the link PMJ... That stuff looks Awesome!
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01/26/2015, 01:16 PM | #10 |
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If you're going the dry rock route, be sure to do an acid bath. That way, there's 0% chance of any phosphates leaking from it.
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Jeff Stop being lazy, and use the search function. Seriously. Current Tank Info: 75g DT / 20g sump / 20g QT - Eheim 1250, Tunze Osmolator 3155, GHL Profilux 3, 2 Tunze 6095, Tunze Wavebox, Aqua Illumination Hydra LEDs |
01/26/2015, 01:17 PM | #11 | |
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“For most of history, man has had to fight nature to survive; in this century he is beginning to realize that, in order to survive, he must protect it.”― Jacques-Yves Cousteau MarineBio.org Current Tank Info: 40 Gallon Breeder w/ Bean Animal Overflow 20G Sump, Mixed Reef. |
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01/26/2015, 01:25 PM | #12 |
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Again with BRS Reef Saver you apparently do not need to do anything to it.
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01/26/2015, 02:48 PM | #13 | |
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01/26/2015, 03:09 PM | #14 | |
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You say RO. But i dont see DI....
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“For most of history, man has had to fight nature to survive; in this century he is beginning to realize that, in order to survive, he must protect it.”― Jacques-Yves Cousteau MarineBio.org Current Tank Info: 40 Gallon Breeder w/ Bean Animal Overflow 20G Sump, Mixed Reef. |
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01/26/2015, 03:20 PM | #15 |
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Its from the rock. Never had a problem with my old tank and I use the same water.
Like I said above I'd still use dry rock again in a heartbeat. I just ordered a GFO reactor so I won't be putting up with this hair algae for long. Last edited by lespaul339; 01/26/2015 at 03:27 PM. |
01/26/2015, 04:15 PM | #16 | |
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Tank 1: Used live rock from LFS. Teaming with life from day one. Brittle starfish, asterinas, pods, mojano and aiptasia. Both good and bad, but very interesting tank. Tanks 2: Used the same live rock + some more "wet" rock without any critters as such. I had put medicine in the tank so it killed all the little life remaining on the rocks from the tank transfer. After 2+ months the tank is still devoid of any interesting critters. I got 2 more pieces of live rock from the lfs to seed it but after 2 weeks I don't see much except pods. |
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01/26/2015, 04:22 PM | #17 | |
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Pro: -Can come with macroorganisms. -Already contain plenty of microorganisms. --Therefore potentially shorter cycling time. Con: -Die-off can be heaps. -May contain bad hitchhikers. Dry Rock: Pro: -No hitchhikers. Con: -Little life. --Therefore takes longer to cycle. ---Even then you'd only have microorganisms for the most part. Of course, it is almost impossible to not add live rock. As guess what your corals are attached to? Live rock. A lot of corals are collected from the wild, and they are usually attached to a piece of rock. Or their skeleton is rock even. So yeah. Last edited by Azedenkae; 01/26/2015 at 04:29 PM. |
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01/26/2015, 04:26 PM | #18 |
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For FORWLRs or with non-coral heavy tanks, live rock makes sense as it is easy to get rid of nasties. If your tank is going to be jam packed with corals, get dry rock.
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01/26/2015, 04:37 PM | #19 | |
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This time I'm going to do Tampa Bay Live rock, doing the 40 gallon "The Package" (80lbs live rock, 40 lbs sand, bunch of critters) in my 40 gallon breeder. In my 75 gallon tank I'll get his dry rock and I'll eventually move a nice rock or 2 from the 40 gallon to the 75 gallon. -Or, I'm toying with the idea of getting liveaquaria's fiji premium 40lbs box for the 75 -I've ordered that before (8 years ago) and it was some nice rock, really interesting funnel algae and leaf algae. And do some dry rock as well.. either case, I'm not doing all live rock for the 75... too expensive. I really want to do the tampa bay live rock package though.. If anyone in this thread hasn't seen it there are threads on it, do a search. Awesome stuff. My dad ordered just the rock I believe for his 55 gallon (then he moved it to a 120 gallon). You do need to deal with gorilla crabs and mantis shrimp.. but it's not that big of a deal. At least there is no aptasia, i've fought that before, no fun. |
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01/26/2015, 04:41 PM | #20 | |
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Rhonda 65 gallon mixed reef |
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01/30/2015, 11:28 PM | #21 |
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Yeah I heard about Tampa Bay too late. Also shipping is prohibitive. But if I ever do a next tank, I will go with the same.
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01/31/2015, 12:46 AM | #22 | |
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
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