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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 39
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Duncan and yellow colony polyp
Does anyone know how long it takes for both of these corals to open up? And what are the small, translucent, finger/fan-like things on the side of my duncan that look like they are filter-feeding? Part of the duncan?
I got them in the tank Friday eve and the yellow colony polyp has only partially opened a few times. The duncan grew a bit outwards yesterday evening and it looked like it's almost about to be partially open. Neither have really opened yet. I did two water changes yesterday thinking the nitrates were bothering them. I've squirted a tiny bit of mysis on both frags to possibly interest them, to some progress on the yellow colony, which partially opened (very slowly) Water params are as follows: NH3: ~0ppm NO2: 0ppm NO3: When they went in: 10-15ppm, Now: ~5ppm Alk 10 dKH Ca 440ppm Salinity 1.025-1.026 (No Copper, very very low phos) My system is 125gal DT, 35gal sump. I run carbon and poly filters. 2 x larger sicce powerheads (good flow) 2 x current USA reef led lighting I've placed both corals in med-low flow and bottom range of my tank. Granted, the lights are still very strong. Have not noticed any necrosis. My first corals. |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 39
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Anyone?
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 283
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Do you have pics?
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 39
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Sorry, attached. Took these this morning. Looks like the Duncan is dying (all but one head) and polyps arent doing well either. Figured the best thing I can do is just keep the water params stable and hope they pull through.
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 283
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Your params look fine but this is troubling considering these are your first corals. IMO something is not right. These are easy going corals and should open up after a day or so. You might double check your params with a lfs or second opinion, do a decent sized water change, check all your equipment for damage. A broken heater can release a lot of nasty toxins that can **** corals off. You can try partially shading the corals to see if your lights are too strong. Verify your salinity. If you are using a refractometer make sure it's calibrated properly.
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#6 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 39
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Quote:
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#7 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 49
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#8 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 39
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Quote:
The only issue might be that their frag tanks are usually at 1.026-1.028 SG. |
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#9 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 283
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#10 |
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 39
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#11 |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: S. Jersey
Posts: 976
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I'm thinking that they didn't like being squirted with Aiptasia X.
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Indian Land, SC
Posts: 385
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what is your ammonia?
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Queens, NYC
Posts: 160
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I second that. they should not have been squirted with Aptasia-X. Only directly on aptasia, not as a general preventative
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#14 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 39
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#15 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 194
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When you top off evaporated water are you using RO/DI or just tap water?
Ask your LFS or get online and order some "Poly-Filter". It works wonders at identifying any heavy metals or contaminants in your tank and it will capture any that it comes in contact with. If the foam filter pad turns any color but brown over the course of a week then you have some issues. I typically just let a full piece float in my sump. http://www.ocreef.com/poly-bio-marin..._inch_x_8_inch |
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#16 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 39
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#17 |
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 283
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#18 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 39
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Tags |
corals closed, duncan, yellow colony polyps |
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