List or flow/light/etc requirements for all corals??

SaltLifeCam · 04/29/2015, 01:39 PM

I know the basic requirements for corals, but does anyone know of any websites, threads, or such that have a list of common corals and the specific amount of light and flow they require? Also feeding requirements, lighting hours, and anything else I would need to know!

For example: mushrooms require medium to low lighting and not direct flow but still a good amount. (my example because they seem to be the hardiest of them all)

I want to know where I should place my corals when I do, and I want to have an idea before I do it. Top of the tank? Bottom? In the sand? Near powerhead? Etc etc etc

The specific corals I am considering are: 1 kenya tree or xenia pulse, some mushrooms, zoas, a feather duster, and a carpet.
My light is a current orbit led which has been great so far, and I am not thinking about SPS yet.

Any tips from experience or links elsewhere are appreciated!

soulpatch · 04/29/2015, 01:57 PM

I use live aquaria quite a bit when I have questions about placement but with each tank's light par and flow being different it really depends on some trial and error to move the coral around and find where it is happy.

I have one LPS which should be low flow but he gets mad when I move him out of an area with moderate to high flow. He is weird but he gets what he wants...

dbl · 04/29/2015, 02:11 PM

Try this. Something I found a while ago, and wish I could remember where, so I could give proper credit. You might find it useful.

Bpb · 04/29/2015, 02:13 PM

With those light levels and those proposed corals you should feasably be able to put them anywhere in the tank right away. The orbit leds put you into low light category by coral standards so you're not going to really run the risk of burning any of them. If you have issue it wont be from too much light.

The one question mark would be the carpet anemone. Unles you mean a maxi-mini carpet, they get enormous and require pretty good water parameters and very bright light to thrive long term. You may stick a baby in the tank and it may look ok for a little while but it will not thrive long term.

thegrun · 04/29/2015, 02:56 PM

Look here:
https://sites.google.com/a/asira.org/www2/caresheets

dbl · 04/29/2015, 03:04 PM

I didn't read the part about the lights you have, as all I thought of was the chart I sent. I agree with Bpb's comments regarding the lights. I started with the Orbits and yes, didn't have any problems with the soft corals. Although they are nice lights and easy to use, in my experience, they were not sufficient for higher light-demanding corals. I ended up making a switch once I introduced more demanding species.

SaltLifeCam · 04/29/2015, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soulpatch

I use live aquaria quite a bit when I have questions about placement but with each tank's light par and flow being different it really depends on some trial and error to move the coral around and find where it is happy.

I have one LPS which should be low flow but he gets mad when I move him out of an area with moderate to high flow. He is weird but he gets what he wants...

I like liveaquaria too I look there when first deciding a coral!
Now when you say "mad," how can you tell that? Dull colors? Do they close up? That can be very useful to know! xP

Quote:

Originally Posted by dbl

Try this. Something I found a while ago, and wish I could remember where, so I could give proper credit. You might find it useful.

Very useful, time to study it. Thanks! (:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bpb

With those light levels and those proposed corals you should feasably be able to put them anywhere in the tank right away. The orbit leds put you into low light category by coral standards so you're not going to really run the risk of burning any of them. If you have issue it wont be from too much light.

The one question mark would be the carpet anemone. Unles you mean a maxi-mini carpet, they get enormous and require pretty good water parameters and very bright light to thrive long term. You may stick a baby in the tank and it may look ok for a little while but it will not thrive long term.

I was thinking of a carpet because I want a clownfish, and don't want to deal with anemones. Do you have any recommendations for a different possible clown host?

Thanks everyone for your responses

Bpb · 04/29/2015, 03:20 PM

To be honest, the only clowns that start becoming aggressive and destructive without a host are clarkii and maroon clowns. If you're getting your standard occy or percula clown, chances are they wouldn't even take to the anemone anyway and would generally just be all over the place. Especially if they're tank raised.

My clarkii is hosted by a big toadstool leather because I don't like how volatile and mobile anemones are. Without something to live in she gets incredibly destructive and actually throws tantrums. Will flitter her tail and create massive sand storms down to the glass bottom. Flip every frag and colony on the sand bed, pull and corals and rocks down off the rock scape she's strong enough to, attack other fish. It's bad

SaltLifeCam · 04/29/2015, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dbl

I ended up making a switch once I introduced more demanding species.

Is there a simpler solution to this other than getting a whole new fixture? I can make the switch if needed...but is there a t5 or MH add on or small bulbs for nano tanks that I could just use along with the orbit leds?
I think I have seen sump fuge lights before, would something like this work?

I am not interested in keeping sps yet, possibly not in this tank at all, until I have everything down so I don't need top of the line lighting..

SaltLifeCam · 04/29/2015, 03:28 PM

Yikes Bpb! That makes me nervous about clowns now! I didn't know they get like that..I am thinking some kind of occy anyway, staying away from clarkiis now for sure!

Dkuhlmann · 04/29/2015, 05:00 PM

Live Aquaria or Vivid.

bnumair · 04/29/2015, 05:02 PM

i started a guide a little while back. this should help. take a look at it.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...4#post21679014

gone fishin · 04/29/2015, 05:45 PM

http://successfulreefkeeping.com/lea...r-coral-needs/

This may help.

mmittlesteadt · 04/29/2015, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gone fishin

http://successfulreefkeeping.com/lea...r-coral-needs/

This may help.

Thanks for that link. I have it bookmarked along with a few others as I research my selections as well.

Sk8r · 04/29/2015, 07:59 PM

In general, better to start a new coral of any type low, and over days, raise it up a bit, unless you're in a position to observe what sort of light it was under before you bought it. Even in a 3-day lights-out to knock cyano, you have to give corals a 4th day of lower light or blues only so that they can wake up gently. A coral that's been bagged and shipped, put straight onto the top of the rocks in metal halide light is likely to be stressed, even if it's a type that likes high light.

SaltLifeCam · 04/30/2015, 01:00 AM

Those are all great links thanks everyone!!
@gone fishin, that explains where dbl got that chart from!

Sk8r, what is the cyano "knock-out?" Is it better to keep corals in the dark for 3 days? Does it kill the cyano? Or is that just from being shipped in a box?
If so, I will be getting my corals from a LRS, so a black out won't happen...unless it should

??
My current led fixture is dimmable 0-100%, should I slowly raise it from ~35% max intensity in intervals of 5% or so each week until reaching 100%? How should this process go? I will put the corals in the sand bed first until they are acclimated also.

Still learning everyone, thanks for your input keep it up! (:

I should add that I will start with mushrooms, then after a couple days add some zoas, and if all is well then every other week or so i will add another coral until it's complete!
I know I know, slow and steady wins the race in this hobby!!

Azedenkae · 04/30/2015, 02:59 AM

LiveAquaria and such places are good places to start, but take caution heeding their words without question. A lot of info isn't that precise, or could be plain wrong. So best check other places as well to be sure.

04/29/2015, 01:39 PM	#1
SaltLifeCam Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Florida Posts: 78	List or flow/light/etc requirements for all corals?? I know the basic requirements for corals, but does anyone know of any websites, threads, or such that have a list of common corals and the specific amount of light and flow they require? Also feeding requirements, lighting hours, and anything else I would need to know! For example: mushrooms require medium to low lighting and not direct flow but still a good amount. (my example because they seem to be the hardiest of them all) I want to know where I should place my corals when I do, and I want to have an idea before I do it. Top of the tank? Bottom? In the sand? Near powerhead? Etc etc etc The specific corals I am considering are: 1 kenya tree or xenia pulse, some mushrooms, zoas, a feather duster, and a carpet. My light is a current orbit led which has been great so far, and I am not thinking about SPS yet. Any tips from experience or links elsewhere are appreciated! __________________ Young 10 gallon reef tank. Current Orbit LED light ~15 lbs live rock, ~15lbs live sand/aragonite mix. Still in setup process Current Tank Info: 10 gallon reef tank Last edited by SaltLifeCam; 04/29/2015 at 01:44 PM.

04/29/2015, 01:57 PM	#2
soulpatch Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Downingtown, PA Posts: 4,017	I use live aquaria quite a bit when I have questions about placement but with each tank's light par and flow being different it really depends on some trial and error to move the coral around and find where it is happy. I have one LPS which should be low flow but he gets mad when I move him out of an area with moderate to high flow. He is weird but he gets what he wants... __________________ 150 SC tank build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2550948 Some have bar tabs. I have a coral tab at my LFS. Life goals.

04/29/2015, 03:04 PM	#6
dbl Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: SW Florida Posts: 258	I didn't read the part about the lights you have, as all I thought of was the chart I sent. I agree with Bpb's comments regarding the lights. I started with the Orbits and yes, didn't have any problems with the soft corals. Although they are nice lights and easy to use, in my experience, they were not sufficient for higher light-demanding corals. I ended up making a switch once I introduced more demanding species. __________________ David Current Tank Info: 120 Gallon Peninsula - My First Saltwater Adventure

04/29/2015, 03:28 PM	#10
SaltLifeCam Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Florida Posts: 78	List or flow/light/etc requirements for all corals?? Yikes Bpb! That makes me nervous about clowns now! I didn't know they get like that..I am thinking some kind of occy anyway, staying away from clarkiis now for sure! __________________ Young 10 gallon reef tank. Current Orbit LED light ~15 lbs live rock, ~15lbs live sand/aragonite mix. Still in setup process Current Tank Info: 10 gallon reef tank Last edited by SaltLifeCam; 04/29/2015 at 03:44 PM.

04/29/2015, 05:00 PM	#11
Dkuhlmann Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: NW Iowa Posts: 8,823	Live Aquaria or Vivid. __________________ Previous tanks: 200 gal fowlr 9" Emperor Angel and many different butterfly fish 4" maroon clown and several other fish, 50 gal sump, 40 gal mixed reef/fish mostly softies and LPS. Current Tank Info: 40b 750 gph 45 lbs lr, 2"-3" sand, 165w full spectrum dimable LED, 20 gal sump/refugium 30 lbs lr, Bak Pak 2 skimmer, 4" sock temp 79-80, sg 1.026, NH3 0, NO2 0, NO3 <10, ph 8.2, calc 400, mag 1300

04/29/2015, 02:13 PM	#4
Bpb Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Texas Posts: 3,148	With those light levels and those proposed corals you should feasably be able to put them anywhere in the tank right away. The orbit leds put you into low light category by coral standards so you're not going to really run the risk of burning any of them. If you have issue it wont be from too much light. The one question mark would be the carpet anemone. Unles you mean a maxi-mini carpet, they get enormous and require pretty good water parameters and very bright light to thrive long term. You may stick a baby in the tank and it may look ok for a little while but it will not thrive long term.

04/29/2015, 02:56 PM	#5
thegrun Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Garden Grove, Ca Posts: 17,023	Look here: https://sites.google.com/a/asira.org/www2/caresheets

04/29/2015, 03:20 PM	#8
Bpb Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Texas Posts: 3,148	To be honest, the only clowns that start becoming aggressive and destructive without a host are clarkii and maroon clowns. If you're getting your standard occy or percula clown, chances are they wouldn't even take to the anemone anyway and would generally just be all over the place. Especially if they're tank raised. My clarkii is hosted by a big toadstool leather because I don't like how volatile and mobile anemones are. Without something to live in she gets incredibly destructive and actually throws tantrums. Will flitter her tail and create massive sand storms down to the glass bottom. Flip every frag and colony on the sand bed, pull and corals and rocks down off the rock scape she's strong enough to, attack other fish. It's bad

04/29/2015, 05:02 PM	#12
bnumair Dr. Reef at ur service Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tulsa, Ok, USA Posts: 7,751 Blog Entries: 15	i started a guide a little while back. this should help. take a look at it. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...4#post21679014 __________________ Water Quality: NO3 0,Phos 0,Cal 440,Alk 7.5,Mag 1300 "Reef Fast, You Crash, Reef Slow, You Pass" Mike's Reef 3:16 Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE

04/29/2015, 05:45 PM	#13
gone fishin Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Wyocena Wi Posts: 6,936	http://successfulreefkeeping.com/lea...r-coral-needs/ This may help. __________________ Tony Current Tank Info: 180gal DT, BM NAC77 skimmer,3 Maxspect razors, Maxspect Gyre 150, 30g QT

04/29/2015, 07:59 PM	#15
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	In general, better to start a new coral of any type low, and over days, raise it up a bit, unless you're in a position to observe what sort of light it was under before you bought it. Even in a 3-day lights-out to knock cyano, you have to give corals a 4th day of lower light or blues only so that they can wake up gently. A coral that's been bagged and shipped, put straight onto the top of the rocks in metal halide light is likely to be stressed, even if it's a type that likes high light. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

04/30/2015, 01:00 AM	#16
SaltLifeCam Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Florida Posts: 78	List or flow/light/etc requirements for all corals?? Those are all great links thanks everyone!! @gone fishin, that explains where dbl got that chart from! Sk8r, what is the cyano "knock-out?" Is it better to keep corals in the dark for 3 days? Does it kill the cyano? Or is that just from being shipped in a box? If so, I will be getting my corals from a LRS, so a black out won't happen...unless it should ?? My current led fixture is dimmable 0-100%, should I slowly raise it from ~35% max intensity in intervals of 5% or so each week until reaching 100%? How should this process go? I will put the corals in the sand bed first until they are acclimated also. Still learning everyone, thanks for your input keep it up! (: I should add that I will start with mushrooms, then after a couple days add some zoas, and if all is well then every other week or so i will add another coral until it's complete! I know I know, slow and steady wins the race in this hobby!! __________________ Young 10 gallon reef tank. Current Orbit LED light ~15 lbs live rock, ~15lbs live sand/aragonite mix. Still in setup process Current Tank Info: 10 gallon reef tank

04/30/2015, 02:59 AM	#17
Azedenkae Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 1,196	LiveAquaria and such places are good places to start, but take caution heeding their words without question. A lot of info isn't that precise, or could be plain wrong. So best check other places as well to be sure.