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06/24/2015, 09:18 PM | #1 |
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Fish Bioload Thread
It's been said that 20 clownfish equate to 1 average sized tang, or that a blenny for example, carries a bigger load than a goby of similar size (due to the blenny's herbivorous diet). I think a definitive reference sheet would be helpful to those considering their potential livestock list for a tank. Obviously none of this is expected to be *completely* and totally accurate, but just an idea of the biological weight of a certain group of fishes would be helpful I think. So have at it guys...
* Clownfish * Anthias * Large Angels * Dwarf Angels * Eels * Damsels * Gobies * Tangs * Blennies * Puffers * Lionfish ... etc. Thanks everyone
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60g Macro Algae & Gorgonian Dominated Reef Cube & 20g (Peacock) Mantis Tank Current Tank Info: 60g Caribbean-esque Reef (2'x2'x2'), 10g Quarantine |
06/24/2015, 09:35 PM | #2 |
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Great idea following along.
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06/24/2015, 11:11 PM | #3 |
Blink and you're dead.
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+1
The waste of one 7" goldfish is equal to the waste of 15,000 guppies. (I love hyperboles)
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Ah, Minnesota, The Land of 10,000 Lakes (Actually, there are 11,842 that are 10+ acres) Current Tank Info: n/a |
06/24/2015, 11:39 PM | #4 | |
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06/24/2015, 11:52 PM | #5 | |
Blink and you're dead.
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Quote:
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Ah, Minnesota, The Land of 10,000 Lakes (Actually, there are 11,842 that are 10+ acres) Current Tank Info: n/a |
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06/24/2015, 11:53 PM | #6 | |
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06/24/2015, 11:54 PM | #7 |
Blink and you're dead.
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Sharks and rays produce massive amounts of waste called urea which is even more ammonia packed than bony fish waste. Say a small 1 foot bamboo shark produces as much waste as maybe more or less than 50 2-3in damselfish.
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Ah, Minnesota, The Land of 10,000 Lakes (Actually, there are 11,842 that are 10+ acres) Current Tank Info: n/a |
06/25/2015, 12:16 AM | #8 |
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maybe there should be some sort of scale created?
Scale: 1 - 10, one being very little to no detectable wastes such as a snail and ten being larger animals like a shark or ray. Could even maybe test the nutrient levels of a single fish over 4 days to find the production value |
06/25/2015, 03:57 AM | #9 |
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Ok going along with this, my 1" Cherub Angel craps about 3x more than my two True Perculas (m- 1 1/2" f-2") LOL but true.
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Previous tanks: 200 gal fowlr 9" Emperor Angel and many different butterfly fish 4" maroon clown and several other fish, 50 gal sump, 40 gal mixed reef/fish mostly softies and LPS. Current Tank Info: 40b 750 gph 45 lbs lr, 2"-3" sand, 165w full spectrum dimable LED, 20 gal sump/refugium 30 lbs lr, Bak Pak 2 skimmer, 4" sock temp 79-80, sg 1.026, NH3 0, NO2 0, NO3 <10, ph 8.2, calc 400, mag 1300 |
06/25/2015, 10:36 AM | #10 | |
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60g Macro Algae & Gorgonian Dominated Reef Cube & 20g (Peacock) Mantis Tank Current Tank Info: 60g Caribbean-esque Reef (2'x2'x2'), 10g Quarantine |
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06/25/2015, 10:38 AM | #11 | |
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60g Macro Algae & Gorgonian Dominated Reef Cube & 20g (Peacock) Mantis Tank Current Tank Info: 60g Caribbean-esque Reef (2'x2'x2'), 10g Quarantine |
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06/25/2015, 10:39 AM | #12 |
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Not necessarily, I think that's pretty valuable information, even if it's freshwater
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60g Macro Algae & Gorgonian Dominated Reef Cube & 20g (Peacock) Mantis Tank Current Tank Info: 60g Caribbean-esque Reef (2'x2'x2'), 10g Quarantine |
06/25/2015, 10:41 AM | #13 |
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Keep in mind a fish's metabolism, such as anthias for example. They must be fed more frequently than many other fish, therefore their biological footprint on a tank will be much larger, despite their diminutive size
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60g Macro Algae & Gorgonian Dominated Reef Cube & 20g (Peacock) Mantis Tank Current Tank Info: 60g Caribbean-esque Reef (2'x2'x2'), 10g Quarantine |
06/25/2015, 10:42 AM | #14 | |
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The Cherub Angel eats constantly off of the rocks and glass and the sand. The Perculas only eat when I feed them.
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Previous tanks: 200 gal fowlr 9" Emperor Angel and many different butterfly fish 4" maroon clown and several other fish, 50 gal sump, 40 gal mixed reef/fish mostly softies and LPS. Current Tank Info: 40b 750 gph 45 lbs lr, 2"-3" sand, 165w full spectrum dimable LED, 20 gal sump/refugium 30 lbs lr, Bak Pak 2 skimmer, 4" sock temp 79-80, sg 1.026, NH3 0, NO2 0, NO3 <10, ph 8.2, calc 400, mag 1300 |
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06/25/2015, 11:11 AM | #15 | |
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John DT 120G. mixed reef w/ lots of automation + assorted FW and SW tanks. |
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06/25/2015, 12:14 PM | #16 | |
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60g Macro Algae & Gorgonian Dominated Reef Cube & 20g (Peacock) Mantis Tank Current Tank Info: 60g Caribbean-esque Reef (2'x2'x2'), 10g Quarantine |
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06/25/2015, 01:35 PM | #17 | |
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Oh and I feed very heavily. I like fat healthy fish
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Previous tanks: 200 gal fowlr 9" Emperor Angel and many different butterfly fish 4" maroon clown and several other fish, 50 gal sump, 40 gal mixed reef/fish mostly softies and LPS. Current Tank Info: 40b 750 gph 45 lbs lr, 2"-3" sand, 165w full spectrum dimable LED, 20 gal sump/refugium 30 lbs lr, Bak Pak 2 skimmer, 4" sock temp 79-80, sg 1.026, NH3 0, NO2 0, NO3 <10, ph 8.2, calc 400, mag 1300 |
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06/26/2015, 07:03 AM | #18 |
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Poop is different than "pee", which salt water fish are doing 100% of the time. It would be nice to know which fish have higher "ammonia output". Fish poop seems less important for toxins, and more important for coral food....???
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06/26/2015, 11:50 AM | #19 |
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It certainly would be nice to have some sort of scale or point system to go by, with each fish having a certain number of points. Pick your tank size and equipment, get a good rough number for bio-load to stay under and presto! Someone here needs to make a calculator app.
Before I got into fish I just kind of figured using mass as a guide would be good enough. It only makes sense that a 4" clarkii should be equal to 5 or 6 zebra dartfish, doesn't it? If only it were that easy....
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"55gal glass box full of water, rocks and some not-so-amused little fishes" 2x Occellaris, 1 Pajama, 1 Neon Dottyback. Current Tank Info: 55gal tank, sumpless, ReefOctopus Classic 90, Twin bulb T5. |
06/27/2015, 06:34 AM | #20 |
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In my opinion, it doesn't matter what fish are in the tank, it's how much (and what kind) of food goes in the tank. If you feed a cube of mysis a day and have no fish, or 10 damsels, or one tang, the tank has the same amount of nutrient input. If you've already got 10 fish and you buy one more, but you don't feed the tank any more because of it, you haven't increased bioload IMO.
That said, I would also point out that higher protein foods result in more nitrogenous waste (ammonia/nitrite/nitrate). So if you trade out some of the mysis for nori in the diet of your herbivores, you might see a little less nitrate build up. I'm not sure how significant this is, but I always let my large herbivores fill up on a sheet of nori before feeding the rest of the tank mysis/shrimp.
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If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. I remember when zoanthids were called things like "green" and "orange" and not "reverse gorilla nipple." Current Tank Info: 180g reef with all the bells and whistles |
06/27/2015, 09:03 PM | #21 |
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Damsel and clowns are about identical, depending on size of species, granted they're roughly the same fish, same behaviors.
Blennies and gobies are about the same as each other, except that one will process film algae and the other will process sand gunk---weight for weight, they're both an asset if they leave what you value alone. They tend to process waste pretty well. Toss jawfish into that pile. Some gobies like the dragon really move sand, but others like the yellow watchman, same size and general look, are much more sedate. In all, they're more processors than outputters if they're backed by a good complement of bristleworms.
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
06/28/2015, 12:00 AM | #22 |
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As a note aside, in my experience you will reach the territorial capacity long before you reach the biological.
Also, nothing is worse that uneaten food and other decaying matter - so some fish as Sk8r points out will probably be a net consumer rather than net contributor of the "bio-load" - or at the very least "cost neutral". In terms of stocking rates; I think that the 1" per 5 gal rule is a good guide, but no one will argue that a 6" tang or angel cannot be compared with 3 x chromis or clownfish; both in terms of bioload capacity and overall territorial or "living space" capacity. To that end, I stick with some rules of thumb such as: - typically, "medium" and "large" fish such as tangs and angels will reach about 60% their size in the home aquarium and then spend years trying to do the remaining 40%. So a fish that will get 8-12" maximum size will probably get to about 6-8" in the some aquarium, max size 6-8 probably about 4-6" etc. - the 5 gal rule applies to medium sized fish i.e. those that will "probably" reach about 4-6". - for bigger or smaller fish, the 5 gal rule should probably be adjusted up or down by about 50% for "living space"i.e. small fish like chromis can probably be allocated 1" per 2-3 gallons while bigger fish like angels and large tangs probably about 1" per 7-8 gallons. - for bio-load, I think similarly those that fall into the small catagory are probably about 50%, but those that are big should be doubled (+100%). As with anything, all the above should be taken with a grain of salt and there are so many additional factors such as: - what is fed, in what quantity, when and how often (small feedings multiple times per day, or once a day gorging). - what is the shape of the tank (arguably, deep tanks provide lots of volume but less space). - the mix of fish; a good mix whereby some fish will literally eat the poop of others, and not compete for territory will be more efficient in terms of stocking capacity.
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Regards, Matt "Rules are for the obedience of fools and the guidance of wise men." "Nemo mortalium omnibus horis sapit" - no man is at all times wise. "To a hammer, everything is a nail!" Current Tank Info: RSM 130 |
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