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Unread 10/05/2015, 06:00 PM   #1
Killerflash
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Cycling and new kits

So I got my tank up and running a week ago (90 gal, 1" sand bed, 90lbs of base rock and 10 lbs of live rock) and have been testing my water every 1-2 days at the LFS.

However the readings had never changed (they use the strips). I had planned on getting my own kit, but just had not done so yet and so I got my own API saltwater master test kit and tested it myself today and everything was reading quite a bit different than it had been at the LFS.

All week there I was picking up a PH around 8.0-8.2, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and my nitrates showed less than 10 ppm. Today however, my test showed my PH at 8.0, ammonia at 0.25, nitrites at 0.25 as well, and my nitrates were around 30 ppm.

I'm assuming the strips were just off as I know they are not as accurate, but I didn't think they would be this off and heard they can expire as well.

I have been ghost feeding the tank (1 small pinch every 1-2 days) since I got it filled up and I had also put 2 pieces of live rock in (1 on each side) the rest is base rock.

I wish I had got my own kit at the start, but I ended up having to wait for the next paycheck..

My question is am I already at the last stage of my cycle in just a week and basically was never was able to see the ammonia or nitrites spike at the start due to the previous tests being strips at the LFS? If not what would be the reason for my test results and where would I be at in my cycle at the moment?


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Unread 10/05/2015, 06:18 PM   #2
heathlindner25
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did you start with live or dead rock?


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Unread 10/05/2015, 06:20 PM   #3
heathlindner25
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API test kits are notorious for giving a false ammonia reading, so it's a little hard to tell where your at.


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Unread 10/05/2015, 06:24 PM   #4
LuciDog
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I would say your at the very start of your cycle....

This is why I would never cycle with fish food. It can take a little while to get enough going to produce ammonia. I'd rather dose the tank up to 2ppm and be done with it. No obsessing over it.


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Unread 10/05/2015, 06:28 PM   #5
gone fishin
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I always had a hard time with the API ammonia reading at the low end. Since you have been ghost feeding and you got 30ppm for nitrates I would speculate you had a cycle and are nearing the end. How vigorous it was is just a guess.

If you would like to confirm the state of your cycle then you can add some pure ammonia up to 2ppm. If the ammonia is processed within 24 then your good to go. If not then wait till it is.


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Current Tank Info: 180gal DT, BM NAC77 skimmer,3 Maxspect razors, Maxspect Gyre 150, 30g QT
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Unread 10/05/2015, 07:06 PM   #6
Killerflash
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heathlindner25 View Post
did you start with live or dead rock?
I started with mostly dead (90 lbs) and a little live (10 lbs)

Quote:
Originally Posted by gone fishin View Post
I always had a hard time with the API ammonia reading at the low end. Since you have been ghost feeding and you got 30ppm for nitrates I would speculate you had a cycle and are nearing the end. How vigorous it was is just a guess.

If you would like to confirm the state of your cycle then you can add some pure ammonia up to 2ppm. If the ammonia is processed within 24 then your good to go. If not then wait till it is.
Alright thanks for the input; that was kind of what I was thinking just based on the numbers, however I am still new to all of this and wasn't sure, especially since a week seems quick to be towards the end of the cycle from what I read. I'll probably end up doing that to confirm in a couple days, is there any rule of thumb to follow like how much to add per gallon or anything as to how to get the ammonia there?


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Unread 10/05/2015, 07:13 PM   #7
gone fishin
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www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators

There is a calculator in the link.

I agree a week is quick, it could have just been die off from the live rock or the dead rock had some dead stuff on it.


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Unread 10/05/2015, 07:33 PM   #8
Killerflash
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gone fishin View Post
www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators

There is a calculator in the link.

I agree a week is quick, it could have just been die off from the live rock or the dead rock had some dead stuff on it.
Thanks for the link! It looks like I need about 5ml of it.

And I don't believe there should have been too much since I soaked the dead rock for a few days and let it dry out for a few days as well. The live rock was only out of water for 30 minutes on the ride home too.
Well at least not as much as people who order their live rock or don't cure the dead rock.


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Unread 10/06/2015, 10:01 AM   #9
Killerflash
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Update: Tested today and everything looked the same as yesterday except the nitrate color was a tad lighter and is at 20 ppm. With this information it seems as if I am nearing the end of the cycle since the nitrates going down is the end. Also if this is the case why is my ammonia and nitrites at 0.25 and not 0?

I did get a bottle of janitorial strength ammonia 10% solution from ace hardware today and can verify it by putting in enough to get my ammonia up to 2.0 and waiting the 24 hours as suggested yesterday.

My new question is will it disrupt anything if I do that? If I am near the end of the cycle what would adding the ammonia do besides giving the bacteria more to feed on?


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Unread 10/06/2015, 02:42 PM   #10
Killerflash
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I'm assuming it wouldn't disrupt or hurt anything if I got it up to 2 ppm now, but I rather be cautious and make sure.


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Unread 10/06/2015, 02:46 PM   #11
gone fishin
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It will not disrupt anything. If you have a robust bacteria population they will make quick work of the ammonia. If not then you need to wait some more. just my two cents.

Just to make sure it is pure ammonia with no surfucants added, it should not be foamy or sudsy when shaken


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Unread 10/06/2015, 03:11 PM   #12
SandJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killerflash View Post
Update: Tested today and everything looked the same as yesterday except the nitrate color was a tad lighter and is at 20 ppm. With this information it seems as if I am nearing the end of the cycle since the nitrates going down is the end. Also if this is the case why is my ammonia and nitrites at 0.25 and not 0?
Been a while since I have cycled a tank (with ammonia) so please correct me if I am wrong, but the nitrates will not decrease at the end of a cycle. The ammonia should decrease from 2 ppm to zero within 24 hours, and the nitrites will increase then decrease, but the nitrates will continue to climb until removed in a water change.


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Unread 10/06/2015, 03:15 PM   #13
gone fishin
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That pretty well sums it up. Nitrites may go up up bit but, IME they drop pretty quick if cycled.


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Current Tank Info: 180gal DT, BM NAC77 skimmer,3 Maxspect razors, Maxspect Gyre 150, 30g QT
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Unread 10/06/2015, 03:28 PM   #14
Killerflash
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Ah I'm still a noob, sorry lol, for some reason I thought the nitrates worked like everything else and eventually went down as well I'll put some ammonia in there to bump it to 2 ppm then and give u guys an update tomorrow. Thanks for the replies!


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Unread 10/06/2015, 03:32 PM   #15
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Nitrates will tend to linger so a good WC at the end is what most folks will do. Good luck


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Current Tank Info: 180gal DT, BM NAC77 skimmer,3 Maxspect razors, Maxspect Gyre 150, 30g QT
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Unread 10/07/2015, 12:48 PM   #16
Killerflash
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Well a couple hours after adding what I thought was the right amount to bump my ammonia up to 2ppm I found out it actually went up to 4ppm. It's been ~20 hours since testing everything after that and I just did my test again.

PH went from 8.0 to 7.8
Ammonia went from 4.0 to 1.0
Nitrites went from 0.25 to 2.0
Nitrates went from 20 to 40

So I guess it turns out that I am in the middle of the cycle since the ammonia went down, but the nitrites went way up?
Or could it just be they are taking longer to go down since I bumped the ammonia to 4.0 instead of 2.0?
What would be the reason for my PH always being low; especially for the drop after adding the pure ammonia?



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Unread 10/07/2015, 03:37 PM   #17
gone fishin
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I would say your not quite done yet. It would appear your are getting some good bacterial growth though.

Don't sweat the pH it will move around during a cycle all kinds of things going on unseen in the tank. Honestly I don't know what mine is, I have not checked it in a few years. Once your tank stabilizes after the cycle, the alkalinity, calcium and magnesium numbers are more important than pH IMO. Until you get some SPS or LPS coral or crazy coraline growing routine WC's should keep everything in check for you.


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