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10/05/2015, 06:00 PM | #1 |
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Cycling and new kits
So I got my tank up and running a week ago (90 gal, 1" sand bed, 90lbs of base rock and 10 lbs of live rock) and have been testing my water every 1-2 days at the LFS.
However the readings had never changed (they use the strips). I had planned on getting my own kit, but just had not done so yet and so I got my own API saltwater master test kit and tested it myself today and everything was reading quite a bit different than it had been at the LFS. All week there I was picking up a PH around 8.0-8.2, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and my nitrates showed less than 10 ppm. Today however, my test showed my PH at 8.0, ammonia at 0.25, nitrites at 0.25 as well, and my nitrates were around 30 ppm. I'm assuming the strips were just off as I know they are not as accurate, but I didn't think they would be this off and heard they can expire as well. I have been ghost feeding the tank (1 small pinch every 1-2 days) since I got it filled up and I had also put 2 pieces of live rock in (1 on each side) the rest is base rock. I wish I had got my own kit at the start, but I ended up having to wait for the next paycheck.. My question is am I already at the last stage of my cycle in just a week and basically was never was able to see the ammonia or nitrites spike at the start due to the previous tests being strips at the LFS? If not what would be the reason for my test results and where would I be at in my cycle at the moment? Last edited by Killerflash; 10/05/2015 at 06:04 PM. Reason: Added a picture |
10/05/2015, 06:18 PM | #2 |
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did you start with live or dead rock?
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10/05/2015, 06:20 PM | #3 |
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API test kits are notorious for giving a false ammonia reading, so it's a little hard to tell where your at.
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10/05/2015, 06:24 PM | #4 |
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I would say your at the very start of your cycle....
This is why I would never cycle with fish food. It can take a little while to get enough going to produce ammonia. I'd rather dose the tank up to 2ppm and be done with it. No obsessing over it.
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10/05/2015, 06:28 PM | #5 |
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I always had a hard time with the API ammonia reading at the low end. Since you have been ghost feeding and you got 30ppm for nitrates I would speculate you had a cycle and are nearing the end. How vigorous it was is just a guess.
If you would like to confirm the state of your cycle then you can add some pure ammonia up to 2ppm. If the ammonia is processed within 24 then your good to go. If not then wait till it is.
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Tony Current Tank Info: 180gal DT, BM NAC77 skimmer,3 Maxspect razors, Maxspect Gyre 150, 30g QT |
10/05/2015, 07:06 PM | #6 | |
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I started with mostly dead (90 lbs) and a little live (10 lbs)
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10/05/2015, 07:13 PM | #7 |
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www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators
There is a calculator in the link. I agree a week is quick, it could have just been die off from the live rock or the dead rock had some dead stuff on it.
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Tony Current Tank Info: 180gal DT, BM NAC77 skimmer,3 Maxspect razors, Maxspect Gyre 150, 30g QT |
10/05/2015, 07:33 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
And I don't believe there should have been too much since I soaked the dead rock for a few days and let it dry out for a few days as well. The live rock was only out of water for 30 minutes on the ride home too. Well at least not as much as people who order their live rock or don't cure the dead rock. |
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10/06/2015, 10:01 AM | #9 |
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Update: Tested today and everything looked the same as yesterday except the nitrate color was a tad lighter and is at 20 ppm. With this information it seems as if I am nearing the end of the cycle since the nitrates going down is the end. Also if this is the case why is my ammonia and nitrites at 0.25 and not 0?
I did get a bottle of janitorial strength ammonia 10% solution from ace hardware today and can verify it by putting in enough to get my ammonia up to 2.0 and waiting the 24 hours as suggested yesterday. My new question is will it disrupt anything if I do that? If I am near the end of the cycle what would adding the ammonia do besides giving the bacteria more to feed on? |
10/06/2015, 02:42 PM | #10 |
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I'm assuming it wouldn't disrupt or hurt anything if I got it up to 2 ppm now, but I rather be cautious and make sure.
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10/06/2015, 02:46 PM | #11 |
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It will not disrupt anything. If you have a robust bacteria population they will make quick work of the ammonia. If not then you need to wait some more. just my two cents.
Just to make sure it is pure ammonia with no surfucants added, it should not be foamy or sudsy when shaken
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Tony Current Tank Info: 180gal DT, BM NAC77 skimmer,3 Maxspect razors, Maxspect Gyre 150, 30g QT |
10/06/2015, 03:11 PM | #12 | |
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10/06/2015, 03:15 PM | #13 |
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That pretty well sums it up. Nitrites may go up up bit but, IME they drop pretty quick if cycled.
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Tony Current Tank Info: 180gal DT, BM NAC77 skimmer,3 Maxspect razors, Maxspect Gyre 150, 30g QT |
10/06/2015, 03:28 PM | #14 |
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Ah I'm still a noob, sorry lol, for some reason I thought the nitrates worked like everything else and eventually went down as well I'll put some ammonia in there to bump it to 2 ppm then and give u guys an update tomorrow. Thanks for the replies!
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10/06/2015, 03:32 PM | #15 |
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Nitrates will tend to linger so a good WC at the end is what most folks will do. Good luck
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Tony Current Tank Info: 180gal DT, BM NAC77 skimmer,3 Maxspect razors, Maxspect Gyre 150, 30g QT |
10/07/2015, 12:48 PM | #16 |
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Well a couple hours after adding what I thought was the right amount to bump my ammonia up to 2ppm I found out it actually went up to 4ppm. It's been ~20 hours since testing everything after that and I just did my test again.
PH went from 8.0 to 7.8 Ammonia went from 4.0 to 1.0 Nitrites went from 0.25 to 2.0 Nitrates went from 20 to 40 So I guess it turns out that I am in the middle of the cycle since the ammonia went down, but the nitrites went way up? Or could it just be they are taking longer to go down since I bumped the ammonia to 4.0 instead of 2.0? What would be the reason for my PH always being low; especially for the drop after adding the pure ammonia? Last edited by Killerflash; 10/07/2015 at 12:55 PM. |
10/07/2015, 03:37 PM | #17 |
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I would say your not quite done yet. It would appear your are getting some good bacterial growth though.
Don't sweat the pH it will move around during a cycle all kinds of things going on unseen in the tank. Honestly I don't know what mine is, I have not checked it in a few years. Once your tank stabilizes after the cycle, the alkalinity, calcium and magnesium numbers are more important than pH IMO. Until you get some SPS or LPS coral or crazy coraline growing routine WC's should keep everything in check for you.
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Tony Current Tank Info: 180gal DT, BM NAC77 skimmer,3 Maxspect razors, Maxspect Gyre 150, 30g QT |
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cycle, cycling, test kit, test strips |
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