Is Cupramine safe for all fishes

ncjetskier · 01/07/2016, 07:59 PM

My tank has ICH and I am setting up a quarantine tank. I have two fire gobies. Is Cupramine safe for all marine fish? Thanks for any help.

splix · 01/07/2016, 08:07 PM

It's not safe for all. I know some wrasse's cant take it. There are more but I dont know off the cuff.

pyithar · 01/07/2016, 08:16 PM

if you're just treating for ich, ttm also works. fallow the display tank fishless for at least 72 days.

azcrazy · 01/07/2016, 08:16 PM

tank transfer method is the best option IMO

ncjetskier · 01/07/2016, 08:27 PM

I never heard of the TTM until now. It makes sense, but where do you get all the water with the correct bacteria level (to support the fish) to do all the transfers? The ICH is in the main display tank.

Sk8r · 01/07/2016, 10:22 PM

Bacteria aren't necessary to 'support' the fish. Fish don't eat them. They just need really clean water that's had time to dissolve all the various minerals, plus a tiny bit of fish food. Bacteria are only to dispose of fish poo and spare food. And if you clean everything every so many hours, there's no chance for nitrate to turn to ammonia.

snorvich · 01/08/2016, 05:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pyithar

if you're just treating for ich, ttm also works. fallow the display tank fishless for at least 72 days.

This. Tank transfer does not require a cycled tank but keeping your current fish during the fallow period would require a cycled tank.

billdogg · 01/08/2016, 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sk8r

Bacteria aren't necessary to 'support' the fish. Fish don't eat them. They just need really clean water that's had time to dissolve all the various minerals, plus a tiny bit of fish food. Bacteria are only to dispose of fish poo and spare food. And if you clean everything every so many hours, there's no chance for nitrate to turn to ammonia.

What Sk8r said, except I think she got it in the wrong order - Ammonia turns to Nitrite, then Nitrate, not the other way around

Quote:

Originally Posted by snorvich

This. Tank transfer does not require a cycled tank but keeping your current fish during the fallow period would require a cycled tank.

Rather than worry about a cycled tank during the fallow period, if you keep up on water changes there will be no build-up of toxins

ncjetskier · 01/08/2016, 07:27 AM

So I can use freshly prepared salt mix for the fish each time? Then, in the fallow period, all I have to do is water changes for the 72 days. How often for the water changes in the fallow tank in a 20 gallon tank and how much percentage should I change? Thanks for all the help.

billdogg · 01/08/2016, 07:40 AM

10% weekly is the norm, but unless it's full of inverts/corals, I'd have no problem going to 10% bi-weekly for the fallow period, perhaps even longer depending on how the water tests. Make sure you use separate buckets etc for the two tanks - you don't want to keep introducing bad stuff to the QT!

MondoBongo · 01/08/2016, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billdogg

10% weekly is the norm, but unless it's full of inverts/corals, I'd have no problem going to 10% bi-weekly for the fallow period, perhaps even longer depending on how the water tests. Make sure you use separate buckets etc for the two tanks - you don't want to keep introducing bad stuff to the QT!

one of the biggest things i almost kept messing up on was the plastic droppers i use for feeding and sampling salinity. i can't tell you how many times i almost went to check the salinity in my main mixing bucket with the dropper i had just used in the TTM tank.

eventually i got wise and ordered a bunch off amazon, now i just leave one by each water source i want to test, and then chuck them when i'm done with them.

this goes for most of my equipment. i clearly mark anything that is dedicated for QT/TTM to help stop me from using it anywhere else.

clear labeling makes life much easier.

billdogg · 01/08/2016, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MondoBongo

one of the biggest things i almost kept messing up on was the plastic droppers i use for feeding and sampling salinity. i can't tell you how many times i almost went to check the salinity in my main mixing bucket with the dropper i had just used in the TTM tank.

eventually i got wise and ordered a bunch off amazon, now i just leave one by each water source i want to test, and then chuck them when i'm done with them.

this goes for most of my equipment. i clearly mark anything that is dedicated for QT/TTM to help stop me from using it anywhere else.

clear labeling makes life much easier.

I use different colors of Duct Tape to mark my stuff.

01/07/2016, 07:59 PM	#1
ncjetskier Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Eastern NC Posts: 74	Is Cupramine safe for all fishes My tank has ICH and I am setting up a quarantine tank. I have two fire gobies. Is Cupramine safe for all marine fish? Thanks for any help.

01/07/2016, 08:16 PM	#3
pyithar Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: yangon,burma(myanmar) Posts: 1,786	if you're just treating for ich, ttm also works. fallow the display tank fishless for at least 72 days. __________________ take it easy, pyithar Current Tank Info: 150G display, 50G sump, mixed reef

01/07/2016, 08:27 PM	#5
ncjetskier Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Eastern NC Posts: 74	I never heard of the TTM until now. It makes sense, but where do you get all the water with the correct bacteria level (to support the fish) to do all the transfers? The ICH is in the main display tank. Last edited by ncjetskier; 01/07/2016 at 08:57 PM.

01/07/2016, 10:22 PM	#6
Sk8r RC Mod Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 34,628 Blog Entries: 55	Bacteria aren't necessary to 'support' the fish. Fish don't eat them. They just need really clean water that's had time to dissolve all the various minerals, plus a tiny bit of fish food. Bacteria are only to dispose of fish poo and spare food. And if you clean everything every so many hours, there's no chance for nitrate to turn to ammonia. __________________ Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.

01/08/2016, 07:27 AM	#9
ncjetskier Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Eastern NC Posts: 74	So I can use freshly prepared salt mix for the fish each time? Then, in the fallow period, all I have to do is water changes for the 72 days. How often for the water changes in the fallow tank in a 20 gallon tank and how much percentage should I change? Thanks for all the help. Last edited by ncjetskier; 01/08/2016 at 07:33 AM.

01/07/2016, 08:07 PM	#2
splix Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Indiana Posts: 374	It's not safe for all. I know some wrasse's cant take it. There are more but I dont know off the cuff.

01/07/2016, 08:16 PM	#4
azcrazy Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: WA Posts: 205	tank transfer method is the best option IMO

01/08/2016, 07:40 AM	#10
billdogg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Grove City, Ohio Posts: 10,806	10% weekly is the norm, but unless it's full of inverts/corals, I'd have no problem going to 10% bi-weekly for the fallow period, perhaps even longer depending on how the water tests. Make sure you use separate buckets etc for the two tanks - you don't want to keep introducing bad stuff to the QT! __________________ I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer