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01/21/2016, 01:33 PM | #1 |
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
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Return plumbing question
My pump has a 1" MIPT outflow, and my bulkhead has a 1.5" slip connection. Best way to connect the two, with a ball valve in between?
I stood in home depot for like 40 minutes the other day, and I ended up with a daisy chain of connected pvc components that looked like I was attempting to launch a space shuttle, not hook up an aquarium. Ended up leaving with nothing. I know I'm way overthinking this, but my brain won't slow it down and make it easy. Any advice? |
01/21/2016, 03:15 PM | #2 |
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If the purpose it to tune the flow on the return, use a gate valve. I would consider using a 1" NPT valve, then a 1.5" slip x 1" MNPT reducer. Screw the reducer on the 1" valve, then 1.5" slip up to the BH. Although 1.5" pipe size seems big for a return BH, but we don't know what size tank this is. You could also run all 1" pipe size, and reduce right at the BH. Maybe your pump manual has a recommended pipe size for the plumbing.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008I4B3GK/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
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01/21/2016, 03:28 PM | #3 |
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The ball valve was to primarily be for disconnecting the pump for maintenance. As far as fine tuning, I hadn't really planned on it. I was just going to take what the pump gave, all out, and then make up any difference for flow using powerheads. As far as the overflow goes, I was going to use a gate valve on it to fine tune the herbie overflow for silencing any gurgling.
So stepping down from 1 1/2" to 1", right at the BH would be the best option? That's actually pretty awesome. That means I can get a 1 1/2" to 1" bushing for the BH, easy. That also means I can use a 1" true union ball valve instead of a 1 1/2", which is a money saver |
01/21/2016, 03:49 PM | #4 |
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Oh, I'm sorry, the tank is 190 gallon. It has 3 overflow holes, all with 1 1/2" bulkheads.
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01/21/2016, 05:18 PM | #5 |
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I would step up at the outlet of the pump to 1 1/2" and run 1 1/2" all the way to the bulkhead. The larger pipe will have less head loss.
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01/21/2016, 08:51 PM | #6 |
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If the overflow has three 1-1/2" bulkheads, why not run a BeanAnimal and run the return up over the back?
Either way, I would go from the 1" MPT on the pump into a 1" FPT to 1.5" bushing. Install the bushing into a union (for ease of pump removal), and then go 1.5" plumbing the rest of the way up.
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01/21/2016, 09:47 PM | #7 |
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I thought about doing a bean animal, but in the end decided I didn't want to deal with going over the back, plus I really liked the simplicity of the herbie.
I did actually decide to do basically that. there's a hose barb adapter that came with the pump, so I'm going to do that -> short length of hose -> hose barb adapter to 1 1/2" MPT (I couldn't find a hose bard x slip fitting on US Plastics) -> 1 1/2" FPT to slip -> short length of pipe - > Cepex e-qua true union ball valve - > short length of pipe to bulkhead. I really need to figure out how to do the return inside the overflow. I've looked at loc-line, but they're so expensive. I've tried googling return setups, but mostly get the under-tank portion. What does everyone else do? I thought about building some kind of spray bar type setup, but have no clue if that would even work to spread the flow around. My big concern is having enough room. I probably have about 2' to play with from pump top to bulkhead, so when I say short pipe lengths I mean it. I'm really not sure why they did all three bulkheads @ 1 1/2", but I'll make the best of it. I want the short length of flexible hose to help minimize transfer of vibration up the rigid pipe. |
01/21/2016, 11:29 PM | #8 | |
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01/22/2016, 12:49 AM | #9 |
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It gets frustrating. And then you get a picture of the thing you want in your head...And they don't have it. So you try to create it out of other fittings, and suddenly 1 fitting turns into 4, and before you know it instead of assembling a return pipe you find you've built a pvc house.
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