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03/08/2016, 05:33 PM | #1 |
RC Mod
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Eheim heater keeps climbing...
This is the second heater. I have it dialed down into the 70's, and the heat in the tank keeps increasing... 82.2...around that.
I'm beginning to doubt my sanity. I have just taken it down to 71, hoping to get it to 79. We are having larger differences than any recalibration can take care of. And this is a new heater, straight out of the box, after its predecessor was doing the same thing. Anybody got a theory?
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
03/08/2016, 05:52 PM | #2 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 710
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Quote:
Turn the temperature selector ring to the desired temperature. Monitor the aquarium water tempera- ture using an accurate thermometer for at least 24 hours and make any necessary adjustments to com- pensate for calibration errors. If, after a day or two in operation the setting scale does not correspond to the water temperature, follow the following procedure to recalibrate the heater: Switch off the heater and unplug it from the mains supply Measure the water temperature with an ac- curate thermometer Turn indicator arrow (red) to point to the measured temperature Set the desired tank temperature with the temperature selector ring
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75 Gallon mixed Reef / Ocellaris Clownfish, Firefish, Royal Gramma, Bangaii Cardinal, Yellow Tang, Coral Beauty, Allen's Damselfish. Progress thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p |
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03/08/2016, 10:32 PM | #3 |
RC Mod
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BY what I read it has a max adjustment of 4 degrees and the error exceeds that. Am I incorrect about the 4 degrees?
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
03/08/2016, 11:39 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: PHILLY
Posts: 561
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Ugh... Your not the only one. I've had the same problem with mine and gave up. They run on the apex now. Finnex makes a nice digital one that I use as well.
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03/09/2016, 08:33 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 3,907
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Maybe invest in a heater controller like the Ranco? Set the heater thermostat a few degrees above the controller temp as a fail safe in case the controller fails, but use the controller as a thermostat
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 120 gallon, coast to coast overflow w/beananimal overflow. Waveline DC 10000 II return pump, 40 gal sump, Octopus XS200 skimmer, T5 lighting |
03/09/2016, 09:27 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 606
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+1 on the idea of using a Ranco controller with the heater temp control as a backup.
I have been using Ebo Jaeger heaters for years (more than 40) without any trouble other than me breaking the tubes occasionally. Not so long ago, I had a 250W Eheim Jaeger heater stick on and take my discus tank to 99F. they replaced it under warranty, although, it took nearly a month from my first report until the replacement arrived. Perhaps their build quality is not what it once was?
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Bruce Current Tank Info: 150G mixed reef (6x Blue Acro 20K Pro COB LEDs, 4x 80W T5 supplement), 150g fw discus (T5 lighting), 110G fw Angelfish (DIY LED lighting), 4 x 40 g frag tanks (DIY LED). |
03/09/2016, 09:36 PM | #7 |
RC Mod
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I think I've got it solved, but it is the most persuasive argument for a controller I've read in 20 years.
We've had an 8 day powerout in which things went out abruptly, then a period of recovery, followed by a floor replacement involving two tanks and some other logistics problems, plus a need for more water. Note that in the instructions they want a 24 to 48 hour power off to let this instrument recover its balance. Well, in the exigencies of the last while, this heater got moved. Fast. Often. Hither and yon, and it's been cold. Apparently something tripped, and the thing re-set its 'adjustment point.' The old one got moved between new salt mix and tank and didn't like it. I may be able to straighten it out. I plugged the new one in too fast. Note that '48 hours.' I decided to take a deep breath, let the tank go ahead and cool a bit, and let this heater 'rest.' Now morning will tell, but it does seem to have recovered its sanity. I pushed the 'calibration' to the limit, and it will not read 'right', but it will read steady---I hope. I think they meant well in this system, to create extreme finesse, but when you're a hobbyist with a shortage of working heaters in mid-emergency, it seems to have created a problem.
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
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