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03/16/2016, 09:20 PM | #1 |
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PLease help me :(
I cannot work out what is going on with my tank, It's been up and running for about 3-4 months now, cycled after 4 weeks after very diligent water checks, I waited a further 2 weeks until I added 4 hermit crabs very small in size. I waited about a month + after this and I added about 6 purple mushys and 1 red mushy.. everything looked amazing, no diatoms, no fur algae, clean as a whistle.. for a nother month.. then this week, 2 crabs have died and the tank is full of diatoms, the flowers still look relatively healthy though.. the class is caked in diatoms, also caked in copepods.. I don't know what to do, the water physically looks green despite only doing a water change about a 6-7 days ago.. Is there something I'm doing wrong?
It is a 100cm custom tank with a 2foot sump underneath with a filter sock, protein skimmer, heater, a refugium with about 5-10kg of live rock, and a return to the tank.. Please help, I was going to add fish within the next month or two but now I am shying away.. I don't know what to do and how to make my water crystal clear.. is there a piece of quipment I can buy? I don't think my protein skimmer is even working properly.. cheers Aaron |
03/16/2016, 09:23 PM | #2 |
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You need to test your water and list the parameters before anyone can help diagnose the problem. Sounds to me like after you thought the tank was cycled you stopped testing.
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03/16/2016, 09:25 PM | #3 |
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That tank needs a fish!
Wouldn't hurt to run some carbon to clear up the water either. |
03/16/2016, 09:26 PM | #4 | |
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03/16/2016, 09:27 PM | #5 | |
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where would I position the carbona nd how would I do it? |
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03/16/2016, 09:33 PM | #6 |
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Post pics of your tank so we may see if we notice anything that looks off, and give specs on tank, including where you get your water.
It is common to have issues like diatoms, algae, cyano, all around anywhere from 4-9mo in as a new tank has not really quite balanced out yet, could be your issue, but just know these things eventually pass.
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There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD |
03/16/2016, 09:37 PM | #7 | |
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03/16/2016, 09:46 PM | #8 |
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if your water is truly turning green it sounds like you have a large algae bloom going on in the tank. I would definitely get a RO/DI unit.
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03/16/2016, 10:11 PM | #9 |
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Whenever I use tap water my tank will have a diatom outbreak followed by hair algae.
I would switch to RODI, but I found NSW to be much cheaper though. I've been using NSW these past few months without an issue. And even though your nitrates are low, have you checked phosphates?
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03/16/2016, 10:18 PM | #10 |
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I would say your water source may be a big part if not most of your problems.
Maybe you can get water from an LFS or score a used RO/DI
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There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD |
03/16/2016, 10:48 PM | #11 | |
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If that's the case, my guess is that you're seeing water quality problems because of the massive bacterial dieoff. You cycled the tank to build up the nitrifying bacteria, but without fish or anything generating ammonia, that bacteria will die off. Have you been "ghost feeding" the tank (giving it food of some sort) so that it'll have an ammonia source while it's been without fish? |
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03/16/2016, 11:41 PM | #12 | |
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Believe me, your tank will be happier with a little fish poo blowing around in it. |
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03/16/2016, 11:49 PM | #13 |
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If you can borrow a uv from someone, that often clears green water right up. It's just a diff kind of algae. If not, the usual nutrient reduction should resolve it over time
The other poster is asking what your parameters are now, not what they were during the cycle. One of the risks of not using rodi water is that you don't have any control over your source. It can change without warning seasonally or because of how its treated. When that happens you don't find out until your tank starts going sideways.
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If you're havin tank problems I feel bad for you, son. I got 99 problems but a fish ain't one Current Tank Info: 3/2016 upgrade to 120g. Chalk bass, melanurus, firefish, starry blenny, canary blenny, lyretail anthias, engineer gobys, kole tang. Softies / LPS / NPS. <3 noob4life <3 |
03/17/2016, 12:02 AM | #14 | |
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Store DT: 150gal TALL- Octopus Classic 150 skimmer, 40Gal fuge/sump,Dual Radion X3, Dual Vortech MP40's Home DT: 220Gal Reef Octopus 5000, 75Gal Fuge, 125gal Sump, 5 Radion G4Pros, 3 Vortech mp40, Ja Current Tank Info: 220Gal Mixed Reef |
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03/17/2016, 12:08 AM | #15 |
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First, don't panic - almost every new tank goes through these periods. You were just in a honeymoon phase there for a while. Reefs are kind of a process that you work with and tweak as you go, more than something you set up and get to a finished point where everything is done.
The algae can definitely be managed, as has been said RO/DI is your best bet. I'm not sure what a Puretap is? Or if you just mean you are using tap water? NSW - natural sea water, not New South Wales, since you're in Oz thought I should clarify that - could be a better option than tap water IF you can source pollution free NSW. What has your water change regimen been so far? |
03/17/2016, 12:27 AM | #16 | |
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It is super important and that's most likely where your issue is. Think about it your going to spend money on fish coral etc all of that will be a waste if you can't get water quality down . And when you don't set up properly you will most likely have issues then you will start to not enjoy this hobby and when that happens it's a wrap |
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03/17/2016, 02:50 AM | #17 | |
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Can a fish survive this... sure but why put them through it when you can dose ammonia to 2ppm and achieve the same result. |
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03/17/2016, 07:48 AM | #18 | |
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What I *was* suggesting was that the bacteria have died off. I've read that the bacteria in our tanks often account for more bioload than the fish themselves. With a bacteria dieoff, that will give you an ammonia spike creating even more nitrites/nitrates and fueling poor water conditions. In addition, if enough bacteria has died off you will probably have to cycle the tank all over again. Granted, a bacteria dieoff creates ammonia which then feeds the bacteria, but at that point you're in a losing battle and have an ever declining population of bacteria. Since you don't have any fish in your tank, I'd do several very large water changes (say 50-75%) to get your water pristine again. I'm guessing your current nitrate level is pretty high. Once you get your water clean again, then I'd throw in a cocktail shrimp or some fish food (but not live fish) and wait to see if you get any ammonia. If you do, you obviously have to cycle the tank again. If it just shows up as additional nitrates with no ammonia/nitrites, then you still have enough bacteria in the tank. Either way, once you cycle a tank you want to add a fish pretty soon or your bacteria will start dieing off. Ideally, you can buy your first fish and quarantine it in a hospital/quarantine tank for 4-6 weeks while cycling your main tank. Then when your main tank is cycled, your new fish will be clear to move into its new house. |
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03/17/2016, 08:00 AM | #19 |
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If you've been moving rock around and stirring the sand, etc. that will also cause diatom blooms. Lots of people can't keep their hands out of a new tank, re-arranging this and that to get it where you like.
The fact that you see lots of copepods and the corals still look good, I would just clean the glass, run some filter socks and leave the sand and rock alone. Diatoms will go away by themselves as long as they're left alone. Anyway - my $.02
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death, diatoms, frustrated, pleasehelp, prevention |
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