custom tank, 96x18x30 need help

[fishinthewall]

Hey, I am planning a new build and am looking for some advice as these size tanks seem pretty rare.

My original plan for this thank was an sps dominant tank, but due to lighting cost I'm starting to think this may not be the best idea.
I really don't consider MH an option for me as the heat/power consumption just isn't worth it. The alternative seems to be t5/led hybrid but even that setup would cost almost 4k for this tank, and I cant justify spending that right now.
I am very handy and tech savy, I work for a cnc manufacturing company so doing something custom is right up my alley. Is there a successful/possible way to make a t5/led hybrid setup? I looked into rapid led but seem to get mixed reviews about the success of these setups.

Also, i have been trying to search for information on sump returns/overflows. I would expect this to be a important factor on a custom tank but haven't seen much info. The tank is going to be in a wall so it is not a big deal for me ascetically. Is it better for water flow to have one on each side? Is it possible to have the return on one side and the overflow on the other? Both sides of the tank will be covered/hidden so I am not concerned with them coming out of the sides of the tank.

[fishinthewall]

Ok small edit here, It seems like rapid leds are good, just the configuration that different people have success with. If im using a T5/led combo, how many leds should i use?
My initial thought from a bit of research:
2 48' t5 4 bulb setups ( actually 4x2 bulb setups) 2 in front, and 2 behind leds, broken into two sections left and right. perhaps pairs of coral plus and blue plus, so four of each.
But what about the leds? would a set of 48 be enough? 8 clusters of 6 leds? so every foot having a group of 6 leds. But then what spectrum do I aim for in the leds?
I would assume the t5s are going to cover spectrum and scatter, and leds are better for par and shimmer. Can you separate par and spectrum? Will this just create an imbalance?
Im not particular on shimmer, coverage, just growth and visual color balance.

[fishinthewall]

OK another edit on overflows. I am planning on two c2c on the sides, with a return on each side.Also planning on going bean animal and toothless, what i am not sure about is the depth and width of the overflow. Is it better or worse to have it run the depth of the tank? is it OK to only make it wide enough to fit the piping and the fittings?

[fishinthewall]

Any help is appreciated

[GSMclowns]

Is that 30" height or 30" wide?
You can light it with 2 x 4' 8 bulbs SunPowers. It will cost you about a 1000 dollars for the light fixtures but you don't have to think about anything else. Wait till a big holiday to get 10-15% off. For most people, DIY light just isn't worth the time and trouble. As for the overflow thing, I think just 1 overflow in the middle in the back is good enough. If you want more, have 2 overflows in the back corners. Keep it simple.

[fishinthewall]

30" deep, the tank I going to be in a wall with one side set up as a window and the other completely open. Sorry for being unclear.

Both 30x18 will be completely covered both 96x30 will be completely open.

The sunfires do seem like a great easy option but I'll have double the bulbs if I don't use any leds to replace

[moondoggy4]

Skinny tanks are not very popular especially for a reef much better to have width, so I would have it 96'' long 30'' wide and 20'' deep (ie depth of tank), this tank you can sell on the used market, and I would get it euro braced.

[fishinthewall]

Width is a problem with my location. There is currently a 4" wall in between my kitchen and living room. House is a ranch with very open living room and kitchen. I can't have it protruding too far into either room. That's where the width is coming from, and I'm concerned with the 8' length the aspect ratio ( sorry I'm a PC guy) would look strange anything shorter then 30" deep. And what is euro braced? I'm gonna search for it now just curios why you mention it specifically to this tank. Thanks!

[fishinthewall]

Just checked, yes euro bracing is a definite. It will be covered so no sense in going rimless.

[EllisJuan]

Needs more width. Figure out a way...at least 24".

[Zacktosterone]

yeah you need at LEAST 24". you're going to have major regrets with your decision. 30" tall is a beast

[fishinthewall]

Ok you guys have convinced me to try and make 24" work. So the lights I have a pretty good idea of what I'm doing. Basically a led t5 diy hybrid. What about the overflows?

C2c on both sides? Return on both sides? I'm gonna take some pictures and measurements tonight to show where its going on why I originally wanted to keep it 18" hopefully come up with a new 24" plan

[Devaji108]

good glad you came around. yes a 24" would be nice 30" wold be even better but hey 24 will work just fine. so still going with 30" deep?

if you want to idea on DIY led I did a thread for dummies search DIY LED for dummies I got a lot of help from the community.

what about reefbreeders new photon V2 just an led light but I think it a nice one. pick one up for my 90 should be here tomorrow. you could do 2- 3'or 4 units and some T5s..

that said if you want T5/led and have some time to DIY and are going to run a canopy. I would go that way.

good luck!

[fishinthewall]

Please forgive my terrible art skills, this is where I will be putting the tank.

[fishinthewall]

More

[Devaji108]

oh man that's gonna be great.
start a build thread when you get going...

[RocketEngineer]

First of all, I'm pretty sure that the wall in question is load bearing which means cutting a hole in it will require a decent size header to be installed. That's no small job and will require some serious repair work once complete. Keep that in mind.

Second, in the third picture there seems to be an empty wall next to the thermostat. The 11' one in your hand sketch. What is at the opposite end of that wall, the front door? I'm thinking you may have an easier time with a tank against that wall vs where you have it drawn now.

JMO but I would choose a different spot myself. I think it will be easier in the long run.

[fishinthewall]

It is a load bearing wall but I wont have a problem changing and repairing it. My front door is located on the loosing wall of the tank, all the way to the left when looking from the kitchen. The opening by the thermostat( I think you mean security system) is a hallway leading to bedrooms

[RocketEngineer]

If you're willing to install the header I would build the opening as if it were a door (king stud, jack studs ex.) but keep in mind that this may interfere with having a 96" long tank on that wall. Figure all that stuff out before you settle on a tank size or maybe adjust the dinning room door opening to accommodate the tank. It might also mean removing both doors and installing one continuous beam that spans the entire series of openings with "columns" to denote the door openings and frame out around the tank.

[fishinthewall]

It just dawned upon me that extra 6" width puts me at 300gallons, so next size up in skimmer, bigger powerheads, and bigger sump. Overall its a LOT of extra cost. Why is 18" so bad again xD

[Logzor]

The same could be said with the length, that requires a lot more lighting to cover end to end. If cost is this big of an issue, get the best of all worlds and just go with a 60x30x24 tank.

[d-man]

18" aquascape girl will be a nightmare. It's too narrow for ease of growth, swim area and cleaning.
Buy used stuff. That will help cost a lot. Also look into Marsaqua LED light. I have them over my 860g tank. Mine is 43" tall, and the clams at the bottom of my tank are growing. You would need 3 off them, which will run about $500 if I remember correctly.
Used skimmer $400 on up
Used return $100
Used 100g tank for sump $100
Jebao powerheads 4 rw20 $250

Done

[RocketEngineer]

Originally Posted by d-man

18" aquascape girl will be a nightmare. It's too narrow for ease of growth, swim area and cleaning.

Agreed. Consider that you will probably not want the rock right up to the glass, that takes up maybe 2-3" per side at the minimum so that eats up 6" leaving you 12" of aquascape. That's not much, especially for something that's 18"-24" tall.

Now a 24" width would give you say 4" per side and 16" of aquascaping for a 18" tall structure. Those few inches make a big difference in how much room water has to move past a structure, how much room fish have to swim, and how much space you have to work around corals on the rocks without breaking off frags every time you clean the glass.

My 18" tank is only 21" tall and is against the wall. It bugs me how little room I have in some places. Another 6" of width would open up so many more options. I've made the 18" mistake, I recommend you don't repeat it .

[fishinthewall]

Originally Posted by d-man

18" aquascape girl will be a nightmare. It's too narrow for ease of growth, swim area and cleaning.
Buy used stuff. That will help cost a lot. Also look into Marsaqua LED light. I have them over my 860g tank. Mine is 43" tall, and the clams at the bottom of my tank are growing. You would need 3 off them, which will run about $500 if I remember correctly.
Used skimmer $400 on up
Used return $100
Used 100g tank for sump $100
Jebao powerheads 4 rw20 $250

Done

It's weird you mentioned the mars, I just bought one for my nano. And that would be a crazy cheap way to light a tank if it works.



Also I don't want to get into it to much with money, ill make the most out of what I can spend. If I really can't go for the 300 gallon ill cut length rather then width, I just really want to fill this wall

[Zacktosterone]

Its your tank but going down to 24" tall as well will cut the cost SIGNIFICANTLY because thinner glass can be used and still be over built as well as less material.