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04/05/2016, 08:18 AM | #1 |
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Location: Ottawa ON Canada
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pH At 9!
Previously I was using the API test for pH and it was reading an acceptable 8.2-8.4. I recently purchased the Milwaukee pH Tester, calibrated it this morning and its reading 9! My phos and nitrate are undetectable but I've been experiencing a diatom bloom for 3 weeks now, so I understand they may not be accurate. My cal is 420, alk 11.2 and mag 1400. Any ideas on how to lower the pH or do you think there could be something wrong with the tester?
Thanks,
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Russell Banggai / Yellow Wrasse / Black Ice and Davinci Clowns / Flame Angel / Royal Gramma / Blue Chromis / LPS (dominated) / Monti's / Softies / BTA's Current Tank Info: 45G Rimless, Tunze 9004, Kessil A160WE, Gyre XF130, 50lbs rock, Reef Crystals, Phosguard in reactor, Matrix, Chemipure Blue and NP XL biopellets in sump |
04/05/2016, 09:10 AM | #2 |
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It's possible the tester calibration is off, not sure. Milwaukees test equipment is pretty solid. High pH can be a lack of carbon dioxide. Your alk is 11.2, alkalinity buffering could deplete this causing a rise in pH. If it were me, I'd slowly let alkalinity drop to around 8 and see where you're at.
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04/05/2016, 09:26 AM | #3 |
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Water changes are also good.
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
04/05/2016, 01:26 PM | #4 |
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I do a 10% per week and did one each day from Fri-Sun due to the diatom bloom. How to I let the alkalinity drop? I'm using Instant Ocean and not dosing anything.
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Russell Banggai / Yellow Wrasse / Black Ice and Davinci Clowns / Flame Angel / Royal Gramma / Blue Chromis / LPS (dominated) / Monti's / Softies / BTA's Current Tank Info: 45G Rimless, Tunze 9004, Kessil A160WE, Gyre XF130, 50lbs rock, Reef Crystals, Phosguard in reactor, Matrix, Chemipure Blue and NP XL biopellets in sump |
04/05/2016, 02:09 PM | #5 |
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PH and Alk are tied together, if one is high so will the other one be high. This is what you're seeing. Your Alk at 11.2 is very high, lower the Alk to 8.5 and see what your PH reads.
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Previous tanks: 200 gal fowlr 9" Emperor Angel and many different butterfly fish 4" maroon clown and several other fish, 50 gal sump, 40 gal mixed reef/fish mostly softies and LPS. Current Tank Info: 40b 750 gph 45 lbs lr, 2"-3" sand, 165w full spectrum dimable LED, 20 gal sump/refugium 30 lbs lr, Bak Pak 2 skimmer, 4" sock temp 79-80, sg 1.026, NH3 0, NO2 0, NO3 <10, ph 8.2, calc 400, mag 1300 |
04/05/2016, 03:51 PM | #6 |
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Thanks. So how do I lower Alk? Change my salt mix to something that has lower Alk or is there something else I can do?
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Russell Banggai / Yellow Wrasse / Black Ice and Davinci Clowns / Flame Angel / Royal Gramma / Blue Chromis / LPS (dominated) / Monti's / Softies / BTA's Current Tank Info: 45G Rimless, Tunze 9004, Kessil A160WE, Gyre XF130, 50lbs rock, Reef Crystals, Phosguard in reactor, Matrix, Chemipure Blue and NP XL biopellets in sump |
04/05/2016, 07:00 PM | #7 | |
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Location: Little Rock
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Quote:
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David Current Tank: Undergoing reconstruction... |
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04/05/2016, 07:19 PM | #8 |
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Agree, my pH is normally rather low to very low but it's easy for my alk to be too high to very high if I'm not careful.
My house is closed up pretty much year round due to all sorts of allergies. This drives down my pH to 7.8 or lower with no intervention. Especially in the winter when the furnace is running and fireplace at times. My alk normally runs around 8-10 with zero intervention and with Kalk additions it will easily hit over 11 if I'm not careful while pH will be around 8.0. Heck, I had an issue around a month ago that drove my alk to 14 but my pH barely broke 8.2. So, not everyone can ignore pH and just watch their alk.
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
04/05/2016, 08:57 PM | #9 |
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It's not that alk would tell you that the pH is OK, it's that the pH isn't really that important of a parameter in the big picture. As low as 7.8 and things grow fine. Much lower than that and the sand starts to dissolve and that drives it up. Up to about 8.6 it's fine. Much above that and you start to get a little precipitation which drives it down. It's pretty hard to get a reef tank way out of pH range. We run a pretty tight range of only about 1pH unit and it's pretty hard to get outside of that without something else being really out of whack.
Where pH becomes critical is in freshwater tanks with little or no buffering capacity. There the pH can range from the high 4's to the low 10's depending on what's going on. And those fish all tolerate differing ranges so what works for african rift fish won't work for amazonian fish and so on.
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David Current Tank: Undergoing reconstruction... |
04/05/2016, 09:03 PM | #10 |
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Yes, I've had issues with sand before. pH is an issue for some people and I'm one of them. Luckily I've had access to resources like reefcentral and posters like you among many others with considerable knowledge that has allowed me to understand those issues and how to help correct them.
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
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