Resealing a glass tank

jharding08 · 07/05/2016, 10:24 AM

I need to reseal my 48"x48"x24" glass cube tank.

I have never done it myself, so I am wondering if I could do a good enough job to have this tank last for a long while instead of taking it to a professional shop to do.

I have watched videos on how to scrape it clean and then tape it off and apply 100% pure silicone and smooth the seams.

I am just nervous about it lasting. Not sure if I would need to reseal more than just the inside seams.

All suggestions/comments are appreciated

rt67ghy · 07/05/2016, 11:01 AM

Sealing just the inside is ok. I would test it with tap water after the silicon dries; if there's any leak you'll be able to fix it.

oseymour · 07/05/2016, 11:08 AM

Is this something you really want to do yourself to save yourself a couple of hundred dollars only to risk thousands or tens of thousands to your home?

I personally wouldn't do it. It might be fine for a while but the risk of it busting and spilling 100 plus gallons on your floor is not worth it IMO.

jharding08 · 07/05/2016, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oseymour

Is this something you really want to do yourself to save yourself a couple of hundred dollars only to risk thousands or tens of thousands to your home?

I personally wouldn't do it. It might be fine for a while but the risk of it busting and spilling 100 plus gallons on your floor is not worth it IMO.

That is my question. Would taking it to a professional shop provide a more secure seal than me doing it myself? Wouldn't they be using the same silicone and application technique?

They would have better experience with applying and testing for sure.

ca1ore · 07/05/2016, 11:24 AM

Why do you feel the need to 'reseal'? If you peruse the countless threads on the topic you will find that resealing is essentially pointless unless you're doing it from a purely aesthetic perspective. That lots of folks seem to 'think' its a good idea does not make it so. The tank 'seal' is the silicone between the glass panels. If a tank leaks, this structural seal is compromised and no cosmetic line of new silicone along the inside corners is going to fix it.

jason2459 · 07/05/2016, 11:28 AM

That inside seal is not structural at all. It basically protects the in between the glass seal which is what holds it all together and keeps it water tight.

To reseal a tank you have to pull it apart, remove all silicone, and silicone back up like a new tank. It is not fun at all one bit. I did it with my current 180. I bought the tank, stand, and canopy used for a super good deal and the tank had a leak. I would never ever do it again. I also installed extra braces in all four corners at the bottom and at top. It's a tank built like a tank now.

jharding08 · 07/05/2016, 11:38 AM

To be honest, I just got the tank, cleaned it up and saw that the internal silicone seals were coming apart. I have not water tested it yet.

If I water test it and it holds water, should I just redo the aesthetic inner seal and be confident it is stable?

Reel North · 07/05/2016, 11:44 AM

If those inside seams are coming apart (pics will help to remove the maybe), then odds are good that the structural seams have had water contact and may be weaker than you want.

I bought a real junker of a tank that I was going to use as a frag tank. I was going to cut it apart, clean it and resilicone it.

After a week of scraping, cutting silicone and just general frustration, I binned it.

And then I bought a tank lol.

Its a HUGE PITA, and you need to remove 100% of the old silicone.

Pay someone. Its cheap.

jharding08 · 07/05/2016, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reel North

If those inside seams are coming apart (pics will help to remove the maybe), then odds are good that the structural seams have had water contact and may be weaker than you want.

I bought a real junker of a tank that I was going to use as a frag tank. I was going to cut it apart, clean it and resilicone it.

After a week of scraping, cutting silicone and just general frustration, I binned it.

And then I bought a tank lol.

Its a HUGE PITA, and you need to remove 100% of the old silicone.

Pay someone. Its cheap.

I'm getting quotes from some pros around here. What should they be charging if they are going to redo all the silicone seams?

jharding08 · 07/05/2016, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reel North

If those inside seams are coming apart (pics will help to remove the maybe), then odds are good that the structural seams have had water contact and may be weaker than you want.

I bought a real junker of a tank that I was going to use as a frag tank. I was going to cut it apart, clean it and resilicone it.

After a week of scraping, cutting silicone and just general frustration, I binned it.

And then I bought a tank lol.

Its a HUGE PITA, and you need to remove 100% of the old silicone.

Pay someone. Its cheap.

Also, how can I tell how good the inside (structural) seams are?

jason2459 · 07/05/2016, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jharding08

Also, how can I tell how good the inside (structural) seams are?

Add water. Beyond that you wont know until it splits apart.

jharding08 · 07/05/2016, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jason2459

Add water. Beyond that you wont know until it splits apart.

Ugh, not what I wanted to hear. How long is a good water test before I redo the internal/aesthetic seals?

jason2459 · 07/05/2016, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jharding08

Ugh, not what I wanted to hear. How long is a good water test before I redo the internal/aesthetic seals?

Personally, I'd fill and let sit for at least 1 week. My 180 after re-sealing it I let sit for I think 2 weeks.

jharding08 · 07/05/2016, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jason2459

Personally, I'd fill and let sit for at least 1 week. My 180 after re-sealing it I let sit for I think 2 weeks.

So I should fill with water now, even though some of the interior silicone has come off and let sit and then if no leaks, then redo the interior and let sit again?

jason2459 · 07/05/2016, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jharding08

So I should fill with water now, even though some of the interior silicone has come off and let sit and then if no leaks, then redo the interior and let sit again?

I would.

jharding08 · 07/05/2016, 02:49 PM

So if I water test with the way the tank is now, it will tell me if the structural seal is tight. Not how good it is for the long run, but if it is working right now. If it is water tight, then I can reseal the inside, aesthetic seals and it should be good, but who knows for how long...But I still should water test after I do the inside seals as well.

If I water test on the tank as it is now and there is a leak, then the structural seals need to be redone. And the aesthetic seals as well. But at least I know it will be good for the long run.

Anything I am missing? Are we looking at like $200 for aesthetic seals and $500 for full seals? Or please tell me it is much less than that...

ColoReefer970 · 07/05/2016, 06:10 PM

Redoing a tank is no joke...get a quote, then divide it by 10 or so hours of scraping and messing around...then add a couple 20$ tubes of good silicone...don't skimp, make sure it's rated...this isn't your kitchen sink...

Or just pay some doods

07/05/2016, 10:24 AM	#1
jharding08 BlueWorldAquatics.com Join Date: May 2012 Location: Murrieta, CA Posts: 657	Resealing a glass tank I need to reseal my 48"x48"x24" glass cube tank. I have never done it myself, so I am wondering if I could do a good enough job to have this tank last for a long while instead of taking it to a professional shop to do. I have watched videos on how to scrape it clean and then tape it off and apply 100% pure silicone and smooth the seams. I am just nervous about it lasting. Not sure if I would need to reseal more than just the inside seams. All suggestions/comments are appreciated __________________ Stats: 180 g Mixed SPS/LPS reef tank, 30 gallon sump, live rock, GFO\Carbon, AquaMaxx AM250 in-sump skimmer, felt filter socks, cleaning crew

07/05/2016, 11:01 AM	#2
rt67ghy Registered Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dhaka, Bangladesh Posts: 984	Sealing just the inside is ok. I would test it with tap water after the silicon dries; if there's any leak you'll be able to fix it. __________________ 180g mixed reef. 53g sump including 20g fuge. 320lbs LR, 140lbs LS. 1/2 hp chiller. Temp 75-79. Current Tank Info: Fish: 1 yellow tang, 1 mandarin, 1 pair of tomato clowns, 1 maroon clown, 1 skunk clown, 1 banggai cardinal. Anemones: 1 green haddoni carpet, 2 heteractis auroras, 1 LTA.

07/05/2016, 11:08 AM	#3
oseymour Euphyllia Addict Join Date: May 2012 Location: Brooklyn, NY Posts: 1,424	Is this something you really want to do yourself to save yourself a couple of hundred dollars only to risk thousands or tens of thousands to your home? I personally wouldn't do it. It might be fine for a while but the risk of it busting and spilling 100 plus gallons on your floor is not worth it IMO. __________________ Just started Red Sea Reefer 350 (75 Gallon) Build Thread - http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2555495 Current Tank Info: Red Sea Reefer 350

07/05/2016, 11:24 AM	#5
ca1ore Grizzled & Cynical Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Stamford, CT Posts: 17,319	Why do you feel the need to 'reseal'? If you peruse the countless threads on the topic you will find that resealing is essentially pointless unless you're doing it from a purely aesthetic perspective. That lots of folks seem to 'think' its a good idea does not make it so. The tank 'seal' is the silicone between the glass panels. If a tank leaks, this structural seal is compromised and no cosmetic line of new silicone along the inside corners is going to fix it. __________________ Simon Got back into the hobby ..... planned to keep it simple ..... yeah, right ..... clearly I need a new plan! Pet peeve: anemones host clowns; clowns do not host anemones! Current Tank Info: 450 Reef; 120 refugium; 60 Frag Tank, 30 Introduction tank; multiple QTs

07/05/2016, 11:28 AM	#6
jason2459 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Iowa Posts: 9,671	That inside seal is not structural at all. It basically protects the in between the glass seal which is what holds it all together and keeps it water tight. To reseal a tank you have to pull it apart, remove all silicone, and silicone back up like a new tank. It is not fun at all one bit. I did it with my current 180. I bought the tank, stand, and canopy used for a super good deal and the tank had a leak. I would never ever do it again. I also installed extra braces in all four corners at the bottom and at top. It's a tank built like a tank now. __________________ rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. \| 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank

07/05/2016, 11:38 AM	#7
jharding08 BlueWorldAquatics.com Join Date: May 2012 Location: Murrieta, CA Posts: 657	To be honest, I just got the tank, cleaned it up and saw that the internal silicone seals were coming apart. I have not water tested it yet. If I water test it and it holds water, should I just redo the aesthetic inner seal and be confident it is stable? __________________ Stats: 180 g Mixed SPS/LPS reef tank, 30 gallon sump, live rock, GFO\Carbon, AquaMaxx AM250 in-sump skimmer, felt filter socks, cleaning crew

07/05/2016, 11:44 AM	#8
Reel North New King of Quarantine Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Hammertown, Canada eh Posts: 1,175	If those inside seams are coming apart (pics will help to remove the maybe), then odds are good that the structural seams have had water contact and may be weaker than you want. I bought a real junker of a tank that I was going to use as a frag tank. I was going to cut it apart, clean it and resilicone it. After a week of scraping, cutting silicone and just general frustration, I binned it. And then I bought a tank lol. Its a HUGE PITA, and you need to remove 100% of the old silicone. Pay someone. Its cheap. __________________ It takes a very rich man to buy cheap things Current Tank Info: frag tank. Lame

07/05/2016, 02:49 PM	#16
jharding08 BlueWorldAquatics.com Join Date: May 2012 Location: Murrieta, CA Posts: 657	So if I water test with the way the tank is now, it will tell me if the structural seal is tight. Not how good it is for the long run, but if it is working right now. If it is water tight, then I can reseal the inside, aesthetic seals and it should be good, but who knows for how long...But I still should water test after I do the inside seals as well. If I water test on the tank as it is now and there is a leak, then the structural seals need to be redone. And the aesthetic seals as well. But at least I know it will be good for the long run. Anything I am missing? Are we looking at like $200 for aesthetic seals and $500 for full seals? Or please tell me it is much less than that... __________________ Stats: 180 g Mixed SPS/LPS reef tank, 30 gallon sump, live rock, GFO\Carbon, AquaMaxx AM250 in-sump skimmer, felt filter socks, cleaning crew

07/05/2016, 06:10 PM	#17
ColoReefer970 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Earth Posts: 88	Redoing a tank is no joke...get a quote, then divide it by 10 or so hours of scraping and messing around...then add a couple 20$ tubes of good silicone...don't skimp, make sure it's rated...this isn't your kitchen sink... Or just pay some doods