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Unread 05/06/2017, 07:45 PM   #1
monkeysee1
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Hydrogen Peroxide!

Has anyone used it? If so what was your experience? What were the benefits? What were the negative effects? Is it dangerous to the tank inhabitants? And how much did you dose?


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Your "fair share" is not in my wallet; it's in my fish tank!!
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Unread 05/06/2017, 07:46 PM   #2
Syntax1325
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There's several very large threads on this.... do a search for hours of reading.


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Back to halides and loving it!

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Unread 05/06/2017, 08:17 PM   #3
saltnewb
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yes , i fell one time and scraped my knee. it bubbled and cleaned out the dirt


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Unread 05/06/2017, 08:29 PM   #4
Deahttub
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeysee1 View Post
Has anyone used it? If so what was your experience? What were the benefits? What were the negative effects? Is it dangerous to the tank inhabitants? And how much did you dose?
Careful. Too much can bleach sps...


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Unread 05/06/2017, 10:25 PM   #5
chefbill
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I used it for cyano

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Unread 05/07/2017, 07:28 AM   #6
monkeysee1
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Quote:
I used it for cyano
Did it work for you? If so how much did you did you dose and for how long?
I'm at my wit's end with this cyano sh*t.
I tried the blackout thing a few moons ago now, and it went away and the tank was fine for a good while but now it's back!




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Your "fair share" is not in my wallet; it's in my fish tank!!
Current tank info: 90 Gallon saltwater 10 fish with a few inverts; NO CORALS!
Tried to go reef; didn't work out so hot; FOWLR's for me!
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Unread 05/07/2017, 08:51 AM   #7
nereefpat
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Have you tried chemi-clean? People on here swear by that stuff.

I am trying H2O2 as part of my assault on dinos. I am getting ahead of them, but I can't for sure say that it has anything to do with peroxide. I have also implemented blackouts, added flow, syphoned out some sand, added chaeto to the sump...


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Unread 05/07/2017, 10:29 AM   #8
Sk8r
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Easiest treatment for cyano, and the safest, unplug your tank lights for 3 days, turn them on blues-only for the next day; and meanwhile pay attention to your skimmer, which uptakes the dieoff. Do this once monthly until you've gotten the crud out. Chemiclean is safer than hp, but can crash a tank due to more dieoff than skimmer can handle.


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Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 05/07/2017, 01:11 PM   #9
slickmin
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Chemi clean work great for me over night all cyno was gone. The only problem i had was i couldnt turn on my skimmer until i did a large water change. By large im talkin almost 100 % over a weeks time.


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okay thats cool

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Unread 05/07/2017, 01:43 PM   #10
disc1
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Just keep in mind that between bleach and peroxide, peroxide is the stronger oxidizer. So you shouldn't add more peroxide to your tank than you would be willing to add bleach.


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Unread 05/07/2017, 03:36 PM   #11
Sk8r
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And this being the novice forum, I really, really, really caution against the use of peroxide in your tank. There are safer ways.


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Sk8r

Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 05/07/2017, 06:58 PM   #12
ReeferNoob4ever
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I used Red Slime Remover and didn't even have a skimmer. I did have mechanical filtration though and churned it right away. It cleared my tank permanately. My issue was under cleaning my equipment (pumps, filters, etc).


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Unread 05/07/2017, 07:15 PM   #13
monkeysee1
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Thanks everyone!
Then I definitely WON'T be using any HP. Sounds like potential dynamite in a tank!
I'll be getting some Chemi-Clean/Red Slime Remover to add to my arsenal.

Quote:
Easiest treatment for cyano, and the safest, unplug your tank lights for 3 days, turn them on blues-only for the next day; and meanwhile pay attention to your skimmer, which uptakes the dieoff. Do this once monthly until you've gotten the crud out. Chemiclean is safer than hp, but can crash a tank due to more dieoff than skimmer can handle.
By that, sk8r, do you mean a three day period of complete darkness in the tank once a month while yanking the skimmer out of my sump and cleaning it COMPLETELY every month, in addition to the cup I clean practically every day??


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Your "fair share" is not in my wallet; it's in my fish tank!!
Current tank info: 90 Gallon saltwater 10 fish with a few inverts; NO CORALS!
Tried to go reef; didn't work out so hot; FOWLR's for me!
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Unread 05/07/2017, 07:29 PM   #14
Stolireef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeysee1 View Post
Thanks everyone!
Then I definitely WON'T be using any HP. Sounds like potential dynamite in a tank!
I'll be getting some Chemi-Clean/Red Slime Remover to add to my arsenal.



By that, sk8r, do you mean a three day period of complete darkness in the tank once a month while yanking the skimmer out of my sump and cleaning it COMPLETELY every month, in addition to the cup I clean practically every day??
No. She meant that you need to clean the skimmer cup since the die off of the Cyano will likely cause it to fill quickly. If you are cleaning the skimmer cup daily, you're either over feeding or you are running the skimmer a bit too wet.


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I want to burn twice as bright and half as long. Oh, and a full tank crash is just an excuse for a new build.

Current Tank Info: 125 Rimless Leemar, Apex, Trigger 30 Elite Sump, Vertex 180i Skimmer, 2 X Gen4 Radion XR30W, BM Doser, 2xMP40WES, 2xTunze 6095, Sicce Syncra 4.0.
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Unread 05/07/2017, 09:18 PM   #15
Sk8r
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Skimmate should be real dark. Saves effort to run it that way. But go on ambient room light only: just don't run the tank lights.
Cyano needs only 3 things to live: light, water, and carbon source. In our tanks, the easiest thing to deny it is light. 3 day lights-out, it dies, your skimmer uptakes it, you toss it, and eventually, doing this once a month, you get rid of it. Everybody gets a little of it, particularly in spring, when that sunbeam that never hit the tank in winter, begins to touch it. Cyano loves weird-spectrum or slanted light---it saved Earth's bacon during the Permian Extinction; but you can pretty easily get rid of it by making it periodically unwelcome.
The reason you don't totally black out your tank is pretty gruesome: if all light goes, snails may eat your sleeping fish alive. With just a little light, the fish stay aware enough to move.


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Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 05/08/2017, 07:52 AM   #16
chefbill
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I used 1 ml per 10 gal, daily. I actually targeted it at any green hair algae I had, hoping to kill two birds with one stone. It got rid of the cyano but did not do much to the green hair algae but may have helped ne eventually win that battle. I saw no ill effects.

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Unread 05/08/2017, 08:51 AM   #17
scooter31707
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I have used chemiclean and API Marine Algaefix with great success against cyano.


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Unread 05/08/2017, 09:49 AM   #18
Sk8r
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A note: when you've been battling hair algae, your best defense is granulated iron oxide, or GFO, run in a fairly inexpensive reactor. A lot of water comes in with phosphate, which hair loves and corals hate. You have to change that medium out monthly (it saturates and doesn't tell you) until you see relief. SItting there for half a year running dead-saturated GFO and then saying 'it doesn't work' is unfortunately pretty common---but there is just no info on the product box to say 'this stuff can saturate fast and then sit there helpless.' The good news is, when you throw it out, that collected phosphate goes with it and new algae can't get it. Put in new GFO, you take out more phosphate. No phosphate---no hair algae. You'll leave just a trace in on purpose: it has its uses. But very small trace.

Hydrogen Peroxide has 2 uses and one of them is that it WILL kill almost anything that attaches to a rock, if you dip that side of the rock in a bowl of HP for 30 seconds. But you need to rinse it off before you put it back in the tank: bubbles of pure oxygen can kill. We're not saying 'air', which is 90% nitrogen gas or thereabouts: we're saying 'oxygen' ---which is a potent oxidizer and harmful to corals it may hit on its way to the surface. This is why we worry when people start to use it on advice vaguely gotten from the internet----it's a bit risky, and an overdose can really do harm.


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Sk8r

Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low.

Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%.
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Unread 05/08/2017, 06:46 PM   #19
monkeysee1
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Thanks so much for all the input guys!
Thanks chefbill, scooter and Sk8tr!
Now I can implement a plan of progressive attack on this nemesis, with HP as the last resort.
I'll keep you guys posted on what happens soon!


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Your "fair share" is not in my wallet; it's in my fish tank!!
Current tank info: 90 Gallon saltwater 10 fish with a few inverts; NO CORALS!
Tried to go reef; didn't work out so hot; FOWLR's for me!

Last edited by monkeysee1; 05/08/2017 at 06:56 PM.
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