Last plumbing question secure pipe or not

Oceanavekid · 08/28/2017, 09:12 PM

I'm running a pipe in the hole at the bottom of my tank. It didn't come with the black box so it's the easiest option

Should I secure it with glue or no? It's 1" pvc in the bulkhead
Drilling a hole in the cap. Think that's better than an exposed pipe

What do you guys think?

Appreciate all the advice

Oceanavekid · 08/29/2017, 09:20 AM

About to glue it in place. Drilling holes in the cap so water can flow Into the sump. Not the prettiest solution but should work well. Not going to glue the cap down so if I need to clean the pipe I'm able to take the cap off and fit a brush in. If anything I can buy a new bulkhead if needed.

clevername · 08/29/2017, 09:30 AM

let us know how it goes. Curious how loud its going to be. Thats a long way for water to fall.

Oceanavekid · 08/29/2017, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clevername2000

let us know how it goes. Curious how loud its going to be. Thats a long way for water to fall.

Hmm didn't even think about that. I'll let you know when it's fully setup tomorrow. Should have my return pump and plumbing finished tomorrow after work

mcgyvr · 08/29/2017, 10:32 AM

whoa...hold on...
What are you doing there?
That will NOT work well if its what I think you are doing.

Are you thinking thats going to be a functioning drain and you are just going to drill a hole in a cap.. if so a huge NOOOOOO/STOP now..

ca1ore · 08/29/2017, 12:14 PM

OK, so if you are just using it as a standard stand pipe, yes you should glue the pipe into the bulkhead. It will be noisy, depending upon how much volume you push through it. If the only opening to the pipe is your drilled hole, then the capacity will be 1-2 gallons per hour. Sort of pointless.

Oceanavekid · 08/29/2017, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ca1ore

OK, so if you are just using it as a standard stand pipe, yes you should glue the pipe into the bulkhead. It will be noisy, depending upon how much volume you push through it. If the only opening to the pipe is your drilled hole, then the capacity will be 1-2 gallons per hour. Sort of pointless.

Making a coast to coast box

Same thing you see on a reef ready tank

ca1ore · 08/29/2017, 03:22 PM

I have no idea what you're talking about, or asking ......

Oceanavekid · 08/29/2017, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ca1ore

I have no idea what you're talking about, or asking ......

I was asking if I should secure the stand pipe

And that I'm making a box to go over the stand pipe

Dugless · 08/29/2017, 08:51 PM

Don't cap the pipe. I also wouldn't glue it in. It might leak marginally when the return pump is off, but not fast enough to be a problem. Unless you have the pump off for a day or more.

If you're doing a DIY drain, I would at least use some gutter guard or similar and have it stick an inch or so out of the drain pipe water line to prevent fish and snails from getting through.

mcgyvr · 08/30/2017, 04:50 AM

you should absolutely glue the pipe into the bulkhead..
The day you go on vacation and the power goes out and it leaks all the water into your sump and all over the floor is the day you will wish you would have glued it..
It can happen.. glue it

billdogg · 08/30/2017, 07:22 AM

I'm a little confused here as well. That is a standard Durso style standpipe, not a coast to coast at all. As you have it in the tank right now, you MUST glue the PVC into the bulkhead. If you don't, and it leaks at all, any power outage will drain the entire tank. If the pipe dislodges, the tank drains. Either way, disaster is waiting.

Are you building a box to surround the standpipe from the bottom of the tank all the way to the top? If so, that's a standard corner overflow, not a C2C. It will work just fine that way, and assuming that the box is properly sealed to the bottom and sides of the tank so that it does not leak AT ALL, then cementing the standpipe is not needed at all and can actually be a bad idea. Eventually a fish will end up back there and the easiest way to get them out is to pull the standpipe and give them a ride to the sump.

Regardless, the cap, as mentioned above, will reduce the flow to effectively zero. Lose it either way. without the cap your flow through the pipe will be limited to a maximum of about 300gph, with 250 being a more reasonable expectation unless you can live with lots of noise. Because it is a single overflow, you CANNOT safely make it a full siphon overflow - it WILL fail and you'll have a flood.

hth

on the spot · 09/03/2017, 06:01 PM

I'm agreeing with everyone else that said so; glue in the pipe, loose the cap.
I think the best option for that standpipe drain is what I suggested previously, the reducing fitting. You get a slightly larger area for surface skimming.

drain.jpg

or something more diyplicated...
Figure-3-Standpipe-and-eggcrate-baffle-sml.jpg

HTH

08/29/2017, 10:32 AM	#5
mcgyvr Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: North Carolina Posts: 20,050	whoa...hold on... What are you doing there? That will NOT work well if its what I think you are doing. Are you thinking thats going to be a functioning drain and you are just going to drill a hole in a cap.. if so a huge NOOOOOO/STOP now.. __________________ Who me?

08/29/2017, 12:14 PM	#6
ca1ore Grizzled & Cynical Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Stamford, CT Posts: 17,319	OK, so if you are just using it as a standard stand pipe, yes you should glue the pipe into the bulkhead. It will be noisy, depending upon how much volume you push through it. If the only opening to the pipe is your drilled hole, then the capacity will be 1-2 gallons per hour. Sort of pointless. __________________ Simon Got back into the hobby ..... planned to keep it simple ..... yeah, right ..... clearly I need a new plan! Pet peeve: anemones host clowns; clowns do not host anemones! Current Tank Info: 450 Reef; 120 refugium; 60 Frag Tank, 30 Introduction tank; multiple QTs

08/29/2017, 03:22 PM	#8
ca1ore Grizzled & Cynical Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Stamford, CT Posts: 17,319	I have no idea what you're talking about, or asking ...... __________________ Simon Got back into the hobby ..... planned to keep it simple ..... yeah, right ..... clearly I need a new plan! Pet peeve: anemones host clowns; clowns do not host anemones! Current Tank Info: 450 Reef; 120 refugium; 60 Frag Tank, 30 Introduction tank; multiple QTs

08/30/2017, 04:50 AM	#11
mcgyvr Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: North Carolina Posts: 20,050	you should absolutely glue the pipe into the bulkhead.. The day you go on vacation and the power goes out and it leaks all the water into your sump and all over the floor is the day you will wish you would have glued it.. It can happen.. glue it __________________ Who me?

08/30/2017, 07:22 AM	#12
billdogg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Grove City, Ohio Posts: 10,806	I'm a little confused here as well. That is a standard Durso style standpipe, not a coast to coast at all. As you have it in the tank right now, you MUST glue the PVC into the bulkhead. If you don't, and it leaks at all, any power outage will drain the entire tank. If the pipe dislodges, the tank drains. Either way, disaster is waiting. Are you building a box to surround the standpipe from the bottom of the tank all the way to the top? If so, that's a standard corner overflow, not a C2C. It will work just fine that way, and assuming that the box is properly sealed to the bottom and sides of the tank so that it does not leak AT ALL, then cementing the standpipe is not needed at all and can actually be a bad idea. Eventually a fish will end up back there and the easiest way to get them out is to pull the standpipe and give them a ride to the sump. Regardless, the cap, as mentioned above, will reduce the flow to effectively zero. Lose it either way. without the cap your flow through the pipe will be limited to a maximum of about 300gph, with 250 being a more reasonable expectation unless you can live with lots of noise. Because it is a single overflow, you CANNOT safely make it a full siphon overflow - it WILL fail and you'll have a flood. hth __________________ I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer

08/29/2017, 09:20 AM	#2
Oceanavekid Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Sacrameto, California Posts: 168	About to glue it in place. Drilling holes in the cap so water can flow Into the sump. Not the prettiest solution but should work well. Not going to glue the cap down so if I need to clean the pipe I'm able to take the cap off and fit a brush in. If anything I can buy a new bulkhead if needed.

08/29/2017, 09:30 AM	#3
clevername Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Manchester, MO Posts: 1,125	let us know how it goes. Curious how loud its going to be. Thats a long way for water to fall.

08/29/2017, 08:51 PM	#10
Dugless Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Spokane, WA Posts: 416	Don't cap the pipe. I also wouldn't glue it in. It might leak marginally when the return pump is off, but not fast enough to be a problem. Unless you have the pump off for a day or more. If you're doing a DIY drain, I would at least use some gutter guard or similar and have it stick an inch or so out of the drain pipe water line to prevent fish and snails from getting through.

09/03/2017, 06:01 PM	#13
on the spot Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: West Michigan Posts: 1,010	I'm agreeing with everyone else that said so; glue in the pipe, loose the cap. I think the best option for that standpipe drain is what I suggested previously, the reducing fitting. You get a slightly larger area for surface skimming. drain.jpg or something more diyplicated... Figure-3-Standpipe-and-eggcrate-baffle-sml.jpg HTH