Abyzz A200 pump and Royal Exclusiv Red Dragon 3 230W side by side

[marinelife]

Abyzz A200 pump and Royal Exclusiv Red Dragon 3 230W pumps currently running on my 375 on 2 closed loops.

So far I am very happy with both. I had an issue with the Abyzz pump in the beginning which turned out to be my fault. It seemed I needed more outputs on my closed loop. Not having enough caused the pump to vibrate a lot. Once I found out who was running support for the Abyzz I was able to get new parts to re-plumb it. CoralVue is a great company and currently running support for Abyzz.

I currently have both pumps hard plumbed into 2 separate closed loops without any noise issues. The only issue I have currently is with the plumbing. Sadly I found some leaks that I am fixing and one new ball valve stopped opening and closing. Once it gets warm out in the spring or summer I will drain the tank to fix it. I will be seeing how the support is for the Red Dragon because I will need some parts.

I currently have the A200 set to random mode going between 60-100%. It randomly changes the speed and various times. It has a wave mode that I have not tried yet but may in the future. The Red Dragon is set to 100% right now. I have not had time yet to play with the controller but it looks like it has some nice modes as well.



Both Pumps


Red Dragon 3


Red Dragon open


Abyzz Impeller


Abyzz Impeller


Abyzz Impeller


RD3 Impeller

[marinelife]

RD3 Impeller


RD3 Impeller Housing


RD3 Impeller


Abyzz Impeller


Both Impellers


Abyzz Impeller/Pump


Abyzz Pump


RD3 Pump


RD3 Controller


Abyzz Controller


Both are great pumps and quiet. You could not go wrong with either.

[biecacka]

Both quality pumps. I will be following this out of curiosity because I can't afford either!

Corey

[Gary Majchrzak]

so... which pump do you like better?

[Dmorty217]

I haven't talked to him about it yet, but for the money/flow I'm going to say he likes Royal Exclusiv better, granted he hasn't he either pump for long.

[ksed]

The Abyzz looks like it has a metal shaft of sort and is the R/E a ceramic shaft?
Seems like a considerable size difference as well.

[Cavediver50]

I am using an Abyzz 100 as a return from my basement on my 300G display tank, and another Abyzz400 in the cabinet under the tank as a closed loop pump. the tank is in my living room right next to my couch, and the pump is absolutely dead silent!I am really impressed with the Abyzz pumps. My only negative thing, is at the price they cost, and the fancy controller and settings
, they should have implemented a feed mode. My return pump is in the basement, along with the controller. I don't like food going over the filter overflow, so I turn off the return pump at each feeding. Yes, I could place the controller upstairs in the cabinet, but in my mind regardless of where the controller is, I shouldn't ave to push the button to restart. it should use a feed mode to restart automatically!

[Gary Majchrzak]

I've been running a pre-enjoyed Iwaki 100RLT for over 20 years and I've never had to clean it. I dump kalk in front of it, run a calcium reactor in front of it and feed fish food through my Iwaki.

If a GFO particle negatively affects a DC pump (as someone mentioned somewhere around here recently) what damage will a 3mm Spectrum pellet inflict upon one?

[slief]

Originally Posted by Gary Majchrzak

I've been running a pre-enjoyed Iwaki 100RLT for over 20 years and I've never had to clean it. I dump kalk in front of it, run a calcium reactor in front of it and feed fish food through my Iwaki.

If a GFO particle negatively affects a DC pump (as someone mentioned somewhere around here recently) what damage will a 3mm Spectrum pellet inflict upon one?

None on either of those pumps. Most DC pumps have relatively small magnets. The RD3’s have HUGE magnets with very powerful motors. Unlike the Iwaki, annual cleaning of these pumps is always a good idea. That said, the RD3’s have what we refer to as an AKB. It sends pressurized water from the pressure side to the magnet cavity to keep in cool and that helps reduce calcium buildup in there. Also, because of the power of the motor in the RD3, it’s much more tolerant to things getting into the pump and buildup that would otherwise stop a typical DC pump.

[ca1ore]

Assumed from the thread title that there would be some kind of comparisons made, as opposed to the two pumps literally placed side by side ..... my bad for assuming. Both look the part of expensive pumps, I just fail to see how to 'justify' the cost .... Can anyone walk me through the logic? Or maybe it's just a Ferrari thing.

As a basement sump room owner, a quiet return pump is unecessary, and though I don't doubt it's inferior a Vectra has proven acceptable to date as a closed loop pump.

[Gary Majchrzak]

What's involved in cleaning DC pumps such as these?
Will the controllers indicate efficiency has dropped suggesting a cleaning might be necessary?

[slief]

Originally Posted by Gary Majchrzak

What's involved in cleaning DC pumps such as these?
Will the controllers indicate efficiency has dropped suggesting a cleaning might be necessary?

I know on the RD3, there is an RPM meter on the display so if the RPM drops, that would be an indication. As for cleaning the RD3, it's pretty simple. Power the controller off, disconnect the pump from the controller via the plug. Remove 4 screws. Disconnect the AKB from the volute via the John Guest Fitting, slide volute off, pull impeller out and clean. I soak my motor and impeller in distilled vinegar for 5-10 minutes, then scrub with a dish brush, rinse and resemble. Hands on time (disassemble, scrub, rinse reassemble) is less than 5 minutes not including the 10 minute soak. Only tool required is a 5mm alan wrench.

[gcarroll]

Originally Posted by slief

I know on the RD3, there is an RPM meter on the display so if the RPM drops, that would be an indication. As for cleaning the RD3, it's pretty simple. Power the controller off, disconnect the pump from the controller via the plug. Remove 4 screws. Disconnect the AKB from the volute via the John Guest Fitting, slide volute off, pull impeller out and clean. I soak my motor and impeller in distilled vinegar for 5-10 minutes, then scrub with a dish brush, rinse and resemble. Hands on time (disassemble, scrub, rinse reassemble) is less than 5 minutes not including the 10 minute soak. Only tool required is a 5mm alan wrench.

So that being said, the Abyzz would have slightly less maintenance time!

[Cavediver50]

Both of my Abyzz do not have an RPM indicator. I guess it will just have to be when you are in the mood to do some maintenance and cleaning, you go for it

[Cavediver50]

I should add, the Abyzz display shows current operating temp, current wattage it's running at, and the % it's at

[slief]

Originally Posted by gcarroll

So that being said, the Abyzz would have slightly less maintenance time!

Not sure what you are getting at Greg.. Are you suggesting that because the RD3 has the AKB, it’s takes more time to take apart? If so, yea, it might take an additional 3 seconds if you decide to disconnect the AKB like I do vs just rotating the volute out of the way to pull the impeller. Or, are you saying that the Abyzz will require more frequent maintenance or less frequent maintenance?

[gcarroll]

Originally Posted by slief

Not sure what you are getting at Greg.. Are you suggesting that because the RD3 has the AKB, it’s takes more time to take apart? If so, yea, it might take an additional 3 seconds if you decide to disconnect the AKB like I do vs just rotating the volute out of the way to pull the impeller. Or, are you saying that the Abyzz will require more frequent maintenance or less frequent maintenance?

Hey, three seconds is three seconds! LOL

[marinelife]

So far both pumps have been great so far. the Abyzz controller is a little easier to figure out at least for me. I am still working on setting the RD3's controller to vary its speeds.

Both Support groups have been great so far.
My biggest issue is the pipes want to leak. fix one and another one starts

[Ted_C]

question on the RD3 for you: I'm all into saving space and fittings and such and am seriously considering moving to the RD3. The connectors on the outlets - are they just 1/2 of a union? If I found the right size union to fit those threads - then I could replace the insert part of the union with a threaded fitting - or just go straight to a true union ball valve.

You can't see it too well in this picture - but the outer threads on my wavelines perfectly fit the spears 1.5" true union ball valve's threads. Then on the other end I have a 1.5" close nipple going into the 1.5" threaded bulkhead. That's what I'd be looking for out of the RD3

[wishntoboutside]

Ted,

Having the true unions on the return side is always a plus however on the inlets an normal union can work just as well. I have plugs on mine that I keep laying around. So if I have to do service work on the pumps. I add the plug inside the sump and it works. now you have extra space and clearance for the pump.

[slief]

Originally Posted by Ted_C

question on the RD3 for you: I'm all into saving space and fittings and such and am seriously considering moving to the RD3. The connectors on the outlets - are they just 1/2 of a union? If I found the right size union to fit those threads - then I could replace the insert part of the union with a threaded fitting - or just go straight to a true union ball valve.

You can't see it too well in this picture - but the outer threads on my wavelines perfectly fit the spears 1.5" true union ball valve's threads. Then on the other end I have a 1.5" close nipple going into the 1.5" threaded bulkhead. That's what I'd be looking for out of the RD3

Since the RD3's already have a union on them, why not just use a ball valve between the pump and the sump instead of the union ball valve. Yea, you might be adding an extra half inch or so (maybe more, but maybe not. The other thing to consider though is the length of the RD3. They are relatively big pumps and may be longer than the pumps you would be replacing. Especially if you use a slip bulkhead and a slip valve. Then add your union on the return side.

That said, it's entirely possible that you could match a union up to the threaded connections on the RD3 but every union manufacturer seems to have a different thread spacing and pitch which could make it challenging.

[Vinny Kreyling]

I like the plug idea, have to remember it.

[Ted_C]

yea - these are great ideas. Never thought of the plug either.

Regarding ball valves instead of true unions - that is certainly an option to save space. My first goal in any system I build is to use threaded fittings where I can (longer runs - I dont mind gluing). The RD3 has what looks like 1/2 of a union - so I'd be looking to replace the internal socket connection with an internal threaded connection. I never ever glue fittings into the proprietary pump parts (inlet / outlet) - that has to be 100% threaded fittings.

That is part of why I shy away from the abyzz. 40 and 50 mm connections that appear to require glued metric to British adapters. I wouldn't use fernco's for these types of connections in a saltwater environment.

[slief]

Originally Posted by Ted_C

yea - these are great ideas. Never thought of the plug either.

Regarding ball valves instead of true unions - that is certainly an option to save space. My first goal in any system I build is to use threaded fittings where I can (longer runs - I dont mind gluing). The RD3 has what looks like 1/2 of a union - so I'd be looking to replace the internal socket connection with an internal threaded connection. I never ever glue fittings into the proprietary pump parts (inlet / outlet) - that has to be 100% threaded fittings.

That is part of why I shy away from the abyzz. 40 and 50 mm connections that appear to require glued metric to British adapters. I wouldn't use fernco's for these types of connections in a saltwater environment.

Those slip bushing connections on the RD3 are sold separately if you needed spares and they are made by VDL in Europe. Not exactly proprietary and the glued fitting insures no leaks. It’s also a cleaner and shorter fitting where space is a concern. You could always get SCH80 pipe nipples like the one in the image below and cut it. Then glue the pipe side into the union bushing and have a threaded male end.

[marinelife]

Originally Posted by Ted_C

question on the RD3 for you: I'm all into saving space and fittings and such and am seriously considering moving to the RD3. The connectors on the outlets - are they just 1/2 of a union? If I found the right size union to fit those threads - then I could replace the insert part of the union with a threaded fitting - or just go straight to a true union ball valve.

You can't see it too well in this picture - but the outer threads on my wavelines perfectly fit the spears 1.5" true union ball valve's threads. Then on the other end I have a 1.5" close nipple going into the 1.5" threaded bulkhead. That's what I'd be looking for out of the RD3

To me, the Abyzz is about the same size as my waveline so it may be the better option for you.

I do agree with a lot of the above. You could change things to make an RD3 work. The plug idea would do the trick. I just did this to fix some of my pipes.