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11/28/2017, 08:48 AM | #1 |
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Do bare bottom reef tanks need water changes?
Hi, I am just wondering if bare bottom tanks need water changes or if it is enough to siphon detritus from the tank routinely and call it good after blowing off the rocks.
The reason I ask is because I have a bare bottom 40 breeder with 0 total dissolved solid water and nitrates at 0. I am having algae problems with a new LED light I just got. My tank is 5 years old and I am getting more algae on the rocks and glass that I'm used to with increased photo period Which is about 8 to 10 hours. I'm wondering if I need to do regular water changes or what I have been doing is just siphoning detritus out of the tank every 2 days. I know the standard is if you have algae keep your nutrients low but mine already are. I have a hang on back skimmer and only two clownfish and one six line wrasse so I am not overstocked. I have also been considering adding a sump and in sump skimmer but I don't know if that would really make a difference or not. I don't want to do a sump and buy a skimmer and build a new tank if all I need to do is change more water or do something else different. I just have soft corals and I do have a Ducan and one brain coral. Thanks |
11/28/2017, 08:50 AM | #2 |
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Water changes are used for mutliple reasons, 1 of which would be replacing minerals. You can do no water changes but you should dose
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11/28/2017, 09:13 AM | #3 |
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Do you have a result for a phosphate test? Even with Nitrates and Phosphates showing very low test numbers they are being consumed quickly by the algae. A large WC will greatly reduce those nuisance nutrient levels. You have to complement that with constant manual removal.
Also check the white channel intensity on your new lights. That greatly contributes to algae growth in my experience.
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11/28/2017, 10:24 AM | #4 | |
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I will start doing water changes in addition to siphoning. What channel intensity an I shooting for? Do you just mean the brightness, or is channel intensity something different? I can manually program the light. Thanks |
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11/28/2017, 10:34 AM | #5 | |
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-dennis Elos Diamond 120xl | Elos Stand | Radion G4 Pros | GHL Profilux Controller | LifeReef Skimmer | LifeReef Sump Photos taken with a Nikon D750 or Leica M. |
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11/28/2017, 10:35 AM | #6 | |
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A DSB works as a buffer for a while, without that buffer they ae easy to get away from you with water quality. Different methods are used to keep water cleaner and which method you choose determines water quality and how often a change is required. |
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11/28/2017, 10:44 AM | #7 | |
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11/28/2017, 11:21 AM | #8 |
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How does one siphon detritus out without needing to replace water after?
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My build thread: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2548422 Current Tank Info: 65 gallon mixed reef, Eshopps sump and HOB overflow, RO-110int skimmer, Reefbreeder 32" photons V1. |
11/28/2017, 11:29 AM | #9 | |
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11/28/2017, 11:44 AM | #10 | |
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FoxFace RabbitFish For Life Everyone in this hobby has made a mistake at least once. Be smart and learn from others mistakes Current Tank Info: Reason I am broke as a joke |
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11/28/2017, 01:03 PM | #11 | |
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11/28/2017, 02:04 PM | #12 | |
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My build thread: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2548422 Current Tank Info: 65 gallon mixed reef, Eshopps sump and HOB overflow, RO-110int skimmer, Reefbreeder 32" photons V1. |
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11/28/2017, 02:37 PM | #13 | |
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Do you think a sump and in sump skimmer would help, or are the larger water changes the most important thing? Thanks |
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11/28/2017, 04:52 PM | #14 |
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Unless you have other means of nutrient export(fuge, nitrate reactor, carbon dosing, gfo, etc.) then water changes are the only way to maintain your nutrients at a reasonable level. Detritus will get stuck in your rocks and you will never get it out in time for it to not be an issue.
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11/28/2017, 04:53 PM | #15 |
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Also, fish pee. That is an ammonia supply that will be turned into nitrates through your tanks biological process. There's no way to siphon that out with a turkey baster.
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11/28/2017, 07:31 PM | #16 |
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Water changes are necessary for all the reasons others have said.
LED lights are quite intense, I turned mine down to 40 blue and 20 white and lowered the Photoperiod to 8 hours only. Once all the algae was gone...through carbon dose and agent green, about 6 weeks, I turned them up to 60 blue and 40 white. In my case, the carbon dose energized the biological filter and the agent green zeroed out the phosphate....now more light is possible because the algae has no phosphate to grow. |
11/28/2017, 07:49 PM | #17 | |
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Thanks |
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11/28/2017, 07:57 PM | #18 |
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11/28/2017, 08:13 PM | #19 |
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I have never used a sump. Your tank is 5 years old...that's certainly mature.
But you did change your light.....so good idea to turn down. You mention higher than corals are used too.....as along as you bring the intensity up slowly over time, you can achieve great coral growth without bleaching them. Like anything in our hobby....consistency is everything and change is OK when it is done slowly. |
11/29/2017, 08:01 AM | #20 | |
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11/29/2017, 01:03 PM | #21 |
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why is that....just personal preference?
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11/29/2017, 04:55 PM | #22 |
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I notice thats what my corals respond best to and my algae growth is kept to a minimum.
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bare bottom, water changes |
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