Return bulkhead leaking

praveen956 · 03/10/2018, 03:32 PM

The return bulkhead is leaking. Not sure how to fix. I cannot remove the bulkhead as i had installed a 90 fitting (slip). i used Teflon tape with no help.

Its a 1.5 inch bulkhead with 65 mm hole.. please let me know any suggestions..

https://youtu.be/8XsDKF2X6gs

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Dsekula · 03/10/2018, 03:44 PM

Do you have the washers on both sides, i use them everyday for work and never had this issue. Remove the tape or whatever is in the way of creating a clean seal.

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praveen956 · 03/10/2018, 03:53 PM

Thanks for your response!! Washer is on the wet side only.. let me visit Home Depot and get a washer for the other side..

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Dsekula · 03/10/2018, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by praveen956

Thanks for your response!! Washer is on the wet side only.. let me visit Home Depot and get a washer for the other side..

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If you absolutely can't get one on you could try water bond... It's two part epoxy made for fixing plumbing. I'm not sure on the reef application but I've used it in ponds and for potable drinking water.. if there's minimal contact with the auctual tank water I'd try making a washer like piece out of that. If you can let it dry you could try a liquid gasket material then there's no need to remove anything.

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Dsekula · 03/10/2018, 04:11 PM

Here's what the assembly should look like, i believe you need the white more ridged washer.

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ramseynb · 03/10/2018, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by praveen956

The return bulkhead is leaking. Not sure how to fix. I cannot remove the bulkhead as i had installed a 90 fitting (slip). i used Teflon tape with no help.

Its a 1.5 inch bulkhead with 65 mm hole.. please let me know any suggestions..

https://youtu.be/8XsDKF2X6gs

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Take the teflon tape off for sure. Use a SMALL amount of silicone grease on the rubber washer. Dry the washer first. Then hand tighten the bulk head. If it's still leaking, do a quarter of a turn with a bulkhead wrench. If it's still leaking, you might need a new bulkhead or gasket. I recently had trouble with a large bulkhead leaking and just loosened it and tightened it until I found the sweet spot. It was not leaking like that though, maybe a drip every 4-5 seconds.

praveen956 · 03/10/2018, 05:46 PM

Thanks for all the input.. I used a washer on the dry side but still still leaks

Can i use silicone to stop the leak?! If so , should i use it between the washer and the glass?!

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ramseynb · 03/10/2018, 05:52 PM

No silicone, especially the one you posted with mold prevention chemicals. The silicone I was talking about is a grease. It's used to lubricate the washer. This looks very similar to the stuff I use:

http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/10/12...to_pump-33.jpg

I use a small amount on the o-rings on my unions as well.

Dsekula · 03/10/2018, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ramseynb

No silicone, especially the one you posted with mold prevention chemicals. The silicone I was talking about is a grease. It's used to lubricate the washer. This looks very similar to the stuff I use:

http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/10/12...to_pump-33.jpg

I use a small amount on the o-rings on my unions as well.

What he is talking about is silicone lubricant, it helps your rubber wear better. It is also sold as 'o' ring lubricant and gasket grease, or their similar enough for this application. This won't seal the gap itself but may help the washer seal it by keeping it more plyable.

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Dsekula · 03/10/2018, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by praveen956

Thanks for all the input.. I used a washer on the dry side but still still leaks

Can i use silicone to stop the leak?! If so , should i use it between the washer and the glass?!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That doesn't look like the right washer to me? You want the ridged kind on the outside.

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bnumair · 03/10/2018, 06:01 PM

If it's done right there would be no need for a washer on dry side not any silicone.
Rest anything you do it's accident waiting to happen.
Need to open the bulk head enough to clean under the washer and retighten.

Dsekula · 03/10/2018, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by praveen956

Thanks for all the input.. I used a washer on the dry side but still still leaks

Can i use silicone to stop the leak?! If so , should i use it between the washer and the glass?!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have reef epoxy? I'd try a generous hunk of that if so you know it's safe and very similar to water bond if it's not the same thing with a different name.

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Dsekula · 03/10/2018, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bnumair

If it's done right there would be no need for a washer on dry side not any silicone.
Rest anything you do it's accident waiting to happen.
Need to open the bulk head enough to clean under the washer and retighten.

Bulk heads come with washers for both sides, I understand some may not use them but to say their completely not needed may be an overstatement.

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homer1475 · 03/10/2018, 06:19 PM

Sometimes there is a burr on the nut from the manufacturing process which prevents the gasket from sealing properly. Take the nut off, clean up any debris or burrs, retighten, and hope that fixes it.

homer1475 · 03/10/2018, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dsekula

Bulk heads come with washers for both sides, I understand some may not use them but to say their completely not needed may be an overstatement.

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Every bulkhead I've ever used only had 1 washer, and it goes on the wet side.

If sealed properly there is no need for a gasket on the nut side. Besides the twisting action of tightening the nut would cause the gasket to bunch up and not have a very good seal.

whiteshark · 03/10/2018, 06:28 PM

First, is the gasket on the wet side damaged at all? If so, it needs to be replaced. Make sure you get a gasket made to fit your bulkhead if needed.

The teflon tape shouldn't have anything to do with it as it's not leaking from the threads, unless it's between the bulkhead nut and the glass. Really, if done correctly, water should not make it to the threads. But I agree, there should be no need for it. There should also be no need for a gasket on the dry side.

I'd remove the bulkhead, clean the glass on BOTH sides, make sure there is absolutely nothing between the bulkhead on the wet and dry sides, and reassemble. Do not over tighten. Hand tight really should be sufficient. If you start cranking down too much you will damage the gasket. DO NOT USE SILICONE SEALANT! Especially the stuff you posted a picture of. Anything with a mold resistant agent is a big no-no. If you still have a leak, and it's possible to do so, replace the bulkhead. If that isn't possible, you can try a small amount of silicone grease between the gasket and the glass. I use Aladdin Magic Lube II. Works wonders.

Dsekula · 03/10/2018, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by homer1475

Every bulkhead I've ever used only had 1 washer, and it goes on the wet side.

If sealed properly there is no need for a gasket on the nut side. Besides the twisting action of tightening the nut would cause the gasket to bunch up and not have a very good seal.

I'll have to agree to disagree

The bulkheads I use all look like the pic I posted. A ridged washer goes on the outside so it does not bunch this comes with the bulkhead. But I also buy them in bulk from the same supplyer all the time for our business so I always get the same ones and will continue to do so since I never had any issues with leaking like this

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Lsufan · 03/10/2018, 06:30 PM

I agree with Bnumair & homer. I would quit messing with the nutt side of the bulkhead. U don’t need a washer, silicone, Teflon or anything else on the nutt side of the bulkhead. In fact by doing so u can do more harm then good. It is the flange side of the bulkhead that is causing the leak. Imo overtighting the bulkheads is what causes most of them to leak.

Has the tank been setup & it just started leaking or has it been leaking since water has been in the tank? How did u tighten the bulkhead, by hand or did u use a tool?

When installing a bulkhead they only need to be a little more then hand tight. If u tighten it by hand u should only need to tighten it another 1/4 to 1/2 a turn with a tool. It depends on the individual & how tight they can get it by hand. I usually hand tighten them then I will do a leak test. Usually they are fine but if they have a small leak I will tighten it a little at a time until it stops.

I would start by loosening the nutt as much as possible so u can slide the bulkhead into the tank. Then try to clean the flange, glass & washer as much as possible. Once u get it clean, slide to bulkhead back thru the hole & make sure it is centered on the hole. Then tighten it back down the correct way.

If that doesn’t work u will have to replace the bulkhead. It is possible that the gasket is bad. One thing to keep in mind next time is to keep a little space inbetween the fitting & the union u installed. If u left 1” to 1.5” inbetween the 90 & the Union u could cut the pipe just below the 90 & still have enough pipe left to install another 90 or a coupling. I try to keep that in mind when doing plumbing. It’s the same concept at the bulkhead. If u left 1” inbetween the bulkhead & the 90 u would be able to cut the pipe right at the bulkhead & have enough room to install a coupling or just slide the pipe straight into the new bulkhead.

Lsufan · 03/10/2018, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dsekula

I'll have to agree to disagree

The bulkheads I use all look like the pic I posted. A ridged washer goes on the outside so it does not bunch this comes with the bulkhead. But I also buy them in bulk from the same supplyer all the time for our business so I always get the same ones and will continue to do so since I never had any issues with leaking like this

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I agree some bulkheads do have a washer on the nutt side but 90% of the bulkheads used in the hobby do not have a washer on the nutt side. By using a washer on the nutt side it is more likely to cause a leak then to prevent one. In the op’s case, that bulkhead is meant for only one washer & it is meant to be on the flange side.

Op, if the washer is a little damaged u can put silicone on both sides of the washer & it should fix the leak. I would recommend against it though & I would change out the bulkhead before I went that route. The reason I wouldn’t use silicone is because u would have to let it cure fully before putting it back in use & that could take anywhere from 5 days to 14 or so days depending on the silicone. Personally, I let it cure a minimum of 14 days before putting any silicone in use on my systems. U can use whatever silicone u want as long as it is fully cured before getting wet. Any silicone is safe once fully cured, it is not letting it fully cure that causes issues

praveen956 · 03/10/2018, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ramseynb

No silicone, especially the one you posted with mold prevention chemicals. The silicone I was talking about is a grease. It's used to lubricate the washer. This looks very similar to the stuff I use:

http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/10/12...to_pump-33.jpg

I use a small amount on the o-rings on my unions as well.

Thank you.. i will try to use the silocone grease..

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Dsekula · 03/10/2018, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lsufan

I agree some bulkheads do have a washer on the nutt side but 90% of the bulkheads used in the hobby do not have a washer on the nutt side. By using a washer on the nutt side it is more likely to cause a leak then to prevent one. In the op’s case, that bulkhead is meant for only one washer & it is meant to be on the flange side

Well maybe op just needs to get one of the good bulk heads with two washers, ijk lol. But really at this point your best bet is probably to get a new one. I'm just saying that in the meantime some reef putty may seal it for long enough to prep up the new plumbing parts and do the job right instead of rushing it just to get the tank back up.

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praveen956 · 03/10/2018, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dsekula

That doesn't look like the right washer to me? You want the ridged kind on the outside.

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I picked up 4 to 5 washer from home depot.. will try them one by one..

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praveen956 · 03/10/2018, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dsekula

Well maybe op just needs to get one of the good bulk heads with two washers, ijk lol. But really at this point your best bet is probably to get a new one. I'm just saying that in the meantime some reef putty may seal it for long enough to prep up the new plumbing parts and do the job right instead of rushing it just to get the tank back up.

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Lol.. I actually ordered another backup bulkhead but cant use that since i glued this one.. dumb dumb dumb me.. if nothing works will cut the pvc and try the other bulkhead.. thanks!

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praveen956 · 03/10/2018, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dsekula

That doesn't look like the right washer to me? You want the ridged kind on the outside.

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This is the washer that came with the bulkhead.. will try different washers on the wet side and post here.. will get the silicone grease tomorrow..

..

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whiteshark · 03/10/2018, 06:58 PM

How long has this tank been running? Did it leak on the first fill?

03/10/2018, 03:32 PM	#1
praveen956 Registered Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 127	Return bulkhead leaking The return bulkhead is leaking. Not sure how to fix. I cannot remove the bulkhead as i had installed a 90 fitting (slip). i used Teflon tape with no help. Its a 1.5 inch bulkhead with 65 mm hole.. please let me know any suggestions.. https://youtu.be/8XsDKF2X6gs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

03/10/2018, 06:01 PM	#11
bnumair Dr. Reef at ur service Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tulsa, Ok, USA Posts: 7,751 Blog Entries: 15	If it's done right there would be no need for a washer on dry side not any silicone. Rest anything you do it's accident waiting to happen. Need to open the bulk head enough to clean under the washer and retighten. __________________ Water Quality: NO3 0,Phos 0,Cal 440,Alk 7.5,Mag 1300 "Reef Fast, You Crash, Reef Slow, You Pass" Mike's Reef 3:16 Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE Last edited by bnumair; 03/10/2018 at 06:09 PM.

03/10/2018, 06:19 PM	#14
homer1475 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Upstate NY Posts: 5,313	Sometimes there is a burr on the nut from the manufacturing process which prevents the gasket from sealing properly. Take the nut off, clean up any debris or burrs, retighten, and hope that fixes it. __________________ 80G SCA Build: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2560256 Originally posted by der_wille_zur_macht: "He's just taking his lunch to work"

03/10/2018, 06:28 PM	#16
whiteshark Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Bethlehem, PA Posts: 3,024	First, is the gasket on the wet side damaged at all? If so, it needs to be replaced. Make sure you get a gasket made to fit your bulkhead if needed. The teflon tape shouldn't have anything to do with it as it's not leaking from the threads, unless it's between the bulkhead nut and the glass. Really, if done correctly, water should not make it to the threads. But I agree, there should be no need for it. There should also be no need for a gasket on the dry side. I'd remove the bulkhead, clean the glass on BOTH sides, make sure there is absolutely nothing between the bulkhead on the wet and dry sides, and reassemble. Do not over tighten. Hand tight really should be sufficient. If you start cranking down too much you will damage the gasket. DO NOT USE SILICONE SEALANT! Especially the stuff you posted a picture of. Anything with a mold resistant agent is a big no-no. If you still have a leak, and it's possible to do so, replace the bulkhead. If that isn't possible, you can try a small amount of silicone grease between the gasket and the glass. I use Aladdin Magic Lube II. Works wonders. __________________ Deep Blue 60 gallon cube: Setup in progress.

03/10/2018, 06:58 PM	#25
whiteshark Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Bethlehem, PA Posts: 3,024	How long has this tank been running? Did it leak on the first fill? __________________ Deep Blue 60 gallon cube: Setup in progress.

03/10/2018, 03:44 PM	#2
Dsekula Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Sterling Posts: 271	Do you have the washers on both sides, i use them everyday for work and never had this issue. Remove the tape or whatever is in the way of creating a clean seal. Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

03/10/2018, 03:53 PM	#3
praveen956 Registered Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 127	Thanks for your response!! Washer is on the wet side only.. let me visit Home Depot and get a washer for the other side.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

03/10/2018, 04:11 PM	#5
Dsekula Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Sterling Posts: 271	Here's what the assembly should look like, i believe you need the white more ridged washer. Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

03/10/2018, 05:46 PM	#7
praveen956 Registered Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 127	Thanks for all the input.. I used a washer on the dry side but still still leaks Can i use silicone to stop the leak?! If so , should i use it between the washer and the glass?! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

03/10/2018, 05:52 PM	#8
ramseynb Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: New Braunfels, TX Posts: 630	No silicone, especially the one you posted with mold prevention chemicals. The silicone I was talking about is a grease. It's used to lubricate the washer. This looks very similar to the stuff I use: http://www.melevsreef.com/pics/10/12...to_pump-33.jpg I use a small amount on the o-rings on my unions as well.

03/10/2018, 06:30 PM	#18
Lsufan Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Baton Rouge Posts: 1,410	I agree with Bnumair & homer. I would quit messing with the nutt side of the bulkhead. U don’t need a washer, silicone, Teflon or anything else on the nutt side of the bulkhead. In fact by doing so u can do more harm then good. It is the flange side of the bulkhead that is causing the leak. Imo overtighting the bulkheads is what causes most of them to leak. Has the tank been setup & it just started leaking or has it been leaking since water has been in the tank? How did u tighten the bulkhead, by hand or did u use a tool? When installing a bulkhead they only need to be a little more then hand tight. If u tighten it by hand u should only need to tighten it another 1/4 to 1/2 a turn with a tool. It depends on the individual & how tight they can get it by hand. I usually hand tighten them then I will do a leak test. Usually they are fine but if they have a small leak I will tighten it a little at a time until it stops. I would start by loosening the nutt as much as possible so u can slide the bulkhead into the tank. Then try to clean the flange, glass & washer as much as possible. Once u get it clean, slide to bulkhead back thru the hole & make sure it is centered on the hole. Then tighten it back down the correct way. If that doesn’t work u will have to replace the bulkhead. It is possible that the gasket is bad. One thing to keep in mind next time is to keep a little space inbetween the fitting & the union u installed. If u left 1” to 1.5” inbetween the 90 & the Union u could cut the pipe just below the 90 & still have enough pipe left to install another 90 or a coupling. I try to keep that in mind when doing plumbing. It’s the same concept at the bulkhead. If u left 1” inbetween the bulkhead & the 90 u would be able to cut the pipe right at the bulkhead & have enough room to install a coupling or just slide the pipe straight into the new bulkhead.