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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 218
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Setting up tank on wood floor
Going to be setting up a 150 tank on oak wood floor. Any preparations I should do to floor and any special kind of paint to use for wall behind tank that will get water and salt creep on it. thanks
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 2,753
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Mines on wood floors and I didn't do anything special. Id seal the bottom of the stand with something waterproof so if there is a leak it's not going through and sitting on the floor underneath.
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Current tank: 90G mixed reef. Current Tank Info: 90 gallon |
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#3 |
The DQ King
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chicago (McHenry)
Posts: 2,414
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Mines on my oak floors as well. The 400g is sitting on a steel stand. I didn’t do anything either. Some put a sheet of plastic below it.
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-Dave Current Tank Info: 40g RIP. 300g system, 180g display. |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 9
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Had no issues with tank on real oak hardwood. I did use an epoxy paint on the inside of the stand just in case. I might be a little more diligent to do something if the finish on the floor was not good.
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#5 |
The DQ King
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chicago (McHenry)
Posts: 2,414
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Like others said, if your sump is inside your stand I’d seal it up so if and when that time comes you spill water on your floor you don’t have a puddle sitting under it all where you can’t clean it up.
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-Dave Current Tank Info: 40g RIP. 300g system, 180g display. |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: P.A.
Posts: 256
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Nothing. Especially do not put plastic which can cause condensation you will never see until you move tank.
If anything just get one of those water alarms. Iv been meaning to get some of those for a few years now. |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Diego
Posts: 157
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You WILL spill water so +1 on sealing the stand. If I had it to do over again, I would paint the inside of mine with Flex Seal or something like it so it can actually hold water. Mine is heavily urethaned, so the wood itself appears to be protected but that is only the exposed surface. Every time I spill enough to pool it runs to the lowest point and eventually seeps through. I've had 2 such incidents in the stand over the last 4 years. I'm not seeing any structural weakness in the stand but I assume the floor under the stand is trashed. So seal it up so it can actually hold water inside it. I'd seal it all around up to the level of the doors. In my stand that would hold 15 gallons of water (48X24X3 = 3,456 cubic inches or about 15 gallons). Even assuming 10 gallon displacement for the area of the sump up to 3 inches, if I cracked the bottom of a 5 gallon top-off water container heaving it in there, all the water would be held inside waiting for my shop vac to get it out.
The second area of concern is the front of the tank. You will also drip and even spill water there when you do water changes or clean the tank, or even reach in to spot feed your coral. That frequent drip and spill on my floor there is showing it. I highly recommend a nice looking rubber backed area rug in front of your tank to catch that. Finally. call your home insurance company and make sure they cover floods inside the house from a fish tank catastrophe. They probably won't cover the tank itself but even the loss of a high-end tank with lots of valuable coral won't come close to the damage even 50 gallons of salt water will cause to your house if something cracks. It's very unlikely that would happen but why even take the risk when the cost will be tens of thousands of dollars? There are more than a few really sad stories on RC about this one.
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Dave Current Tank Info: 120 g mixed reef |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 2,753
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I offered the advise on sealing because I didn't do mine and had a leaky reactor. Now I'm going to pull everything out.
What does everyone think of epoxy coating the bottom? Like you would in a garage? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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Current tank: 90G mixed reef. Current Tank Info: 90 gallon |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 5,313
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I just sealed the sides with silicone, then used epoxy appliance paint. Any water that gets spilled, just pools in the stand.
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80G SCA Build: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2560256 Originally posted by der_wille_zur_macht: "He's just taking his lunch to work" |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Miller Place, NY
Posts: 7,206
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I sometimes wish I had done something with the wall behind because there is a lot of salt splash there. I know Sanjay used FRP a fiberglass board.
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250 gallon mixed reef, 2 Reefbreeder's Photon V 2, Deepwater BLDC 12, DAS EX-3 Skimmer, MTC mini cal, 2-3/4" Sea Swirls, Aquacontroller & 6 Tunze pumps. |
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Vermont
Posts: 52
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Do whatever you can to reduce the use of buckets to 0. I have a pump the goes into the main drain and another from my saltwater bin. Little splashed won’t matter.
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#12 | |
The DQ King
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chicago (McHenry)
Posts: 2,414
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Quote:
Flex seal! Or you can get acrylic pieces and silicone them together. Flex seal will be the cheaper route tho Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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-Dave Current Tank Info: 40g RIP. 300g system, 180g display. |
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Boston strong
Posts: 2,766
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Im on wood floors also. I just siliconed the corners of the stand and painted it white with marine boat paint.
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Joe and Jenny Current Tank Info: 180 reef |
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#14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: P.A.
Posts: 256
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I think ur over thinking it. My entire house is hardwood. I just wipe up after water changes. I use to put a beach towel down but I rarely do that anymore. I’m just careful and then clean up good.
I worry more about a leak or tank busting. That’s a different story. But honestly weather it hard wood or carpet it’s not much different. Ur screwed. Most likely have to tear everything out anyway not to mention what leaks through to floor beneath. |
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#15 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Upstate South Carolina
Posts: 478
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This hasn't been mentioned yet, but I think it's best to have a small air gap between the stand and wood floor. If the stand completely touches the floor, any water that wicks under there won't be able to dry.
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#16 | |
The DQ King
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chicago (McHenry)
Posts: 2,414
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Quote:
Luke, Are we using the force to keep the tank levitated? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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-Dave Current Tank Info: 40g RIP. 300g system, 180g display. |
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#17 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Upstate South Carolina
Posts: 478
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It seems my comment came across as...incomplete.
When I had a tank on wood floors I shimmed the stand at the corners to leave a 1/4" air gap and minimize contact area with the floor. This was beneficial as I spilled water on multiple occasions. Without the shims, water would have sat under the stand with no way to dry or remove it. Quote:
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#18 |
The DQ King
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chicago (McHenry)
Posts: 2,414
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I had to say it because of your photo! Haha!
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-Dave Current Tank Info: 40g RIP. 300g system, 180g display. |
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#19 |
The DQ King
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chicago (McHenry)
Posts: 2,414
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+1 in contacting the insurance company. With my 400g(700g total) I got ahold of them to check and see if Incase the tank broke I was covered. I’ve got State Farm, I’m covered, I had them write it out Incase something or someone tried to change their opinion. Livestock isn’t, but the house is.
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-Dave Current Tank Info: 40g RIP. 300g system, 180g display. |
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#20 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 218
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Good points. Thanks
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