Which algae

[alice 01]

Which algea am I dealing with here?

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[AlSimmons]

It looks kind of Dinoflagellates IMO.

[alice 01]

Thank you.
Aside from getting phosphates down is there anything else.
I am running rowaphos so my phosphate has not been that high.
Also had some silica present but again not mega high.

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[Daddyrawg]

Originally Posted by alice 01

Which algea am I dealing with here?

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Yup Dinos.. 3 day blackouts worked for me..
And they say water changes will only feed those.

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[alice 01]

done my water test.
Phosphate 0/trace
Nitrate 0.2
Nitrite 0
Ammonia 0
Ph 8.2
Silicate 0
Kh 8.6
Magnesium 1350
Calcium 420

So my understanding is that I need to get ph up to 8.4 plus
Turn off my reactor with rowaphos
Physical removal as much as I can
Black out for 3 days
No water changes
(I thought I had diatoms when first started so several water changes to reduce silicate)

Tank is currently fish less (as they are in hospital tank)

Should I start feeding my shrimp flakes to get my nitrate up

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[alice 01]

Just to show what I am dealing with

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[Anemone]

Yep, the only thing I've found successful is doing the mundane work; getting your water params right (which it looks like you have), and manual removal (siphoning) - again and again. It can take a couple of weeks of daily removal, but eventually it goes away (IME).

Kevin

[alice 01]

So frustrating to have recently had fish loses and now another problem.
I will siphon into the filter sock tomorrow as no water changes for now

Any experience with MB7 as I've seen this mentioned a few times to help deal with the problem.

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[Michael Hoaster]

UV helped with mine.

[Eugenious]

Vibrant. UV ligjt, rowaphos, no pox, and no more algae!!

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[alice 01]

Thanks for input guys.
I been so busy recently with work that I've not been able to do much extra with the tank.
Need to get my UV back up and running.
Going to do another black out soon
(The first black out really helped but its creeping back now)
Reactor Is running so fingers crossed I'm making head way.
Also thought I would give the MB7 a go.
Worst case scenario it only costs me more money.

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[Paxis]

Are you using macroalgae in your refugium?

[alice 01]

Originally Posted by Paxis

Are you using macroalgae in your refugium?

No I'm not
Keep meaning to but never been able to get hold of any.

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[moondoggy4]

I would remove a rock that was covered and put it in a QT and then black it out for three days, put rock back in tank and add the next rock to the QT and repeat.

[alice 01]

Originally Posted by moondoggy4

I would remove a rock that was covered and put it in a QT and then black it out for three days, put rock back in tank and add the next rock to the QT and repeat.

Why not just black out whole tank?
Taking a rock out at a time sounds quite disruptive as they are all leaning on one another

Plus I want to fix the cause of the problem.
Not just a temporary fix

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[Scej12]

Hey Folks - I just thought I would chime in (late) here.

I have had some terrible bouts with Dinoflagellates over the last 3 - 4 years in various systems. In one particular installation, I fought back and forth between Dinos and Green Hair Algae for over 2 years....! The GHA was a recurring result of aquascaping/surfaces not being grazed due to the presence of (unpalatable) Dinos.... My insanity (aka repetitious yet unsuccessful regime) can be summed up as multiple treatments of Fluconazole (for GHA) and 3-5 day Blackouts (for Dinos) .... Thank goodness for a patient Client.
So, here's what I've been able to learn from scanning this and other forums; finding a few online academic summaries; and of course, through my own frustrations...
1. Dinoflagellates are in every single reef tank. Dinos are the photosynthetic symbionts we have all been referring to as Zooxanthellae. If you have ever seen a stressed coral eject its zooxanthellae, it is the same rusty brown that coats our rocks and sand bed during a Dino outbreak.

2. In the nutrient poor (oligotrophic) waters where our corals naturally occur; they absolutely need the Dinos’ photosynthetic ability to meet their nutritional requirements, and in exchange the corals provide some of the fertilizers (various forms of Nitrogenous compounds, etc) Dinos need to fuel their own solar-powered production. However, the Dinos can find these same nutrients elsewhere in our aquariums…. In other words: the corals need the Dinos more than the Dinos need them.

3. Dinoflagellates settle on surfaces during photo hours; and swim/wander in the dark. This is exactly why a 3-5 day blackout disrupts them so successfully – however a blackout on its own is not a permanent fix for our Dino problems.

I’m sure there are many other subtleties to our complex ecosystems, however the points above are contextual for my own success in defeating dino outbreaks more than a few times. Though it has been mentioned throughout many Dino forums, I will state it here: A properly sized and tuned UV is the key to solving Dino outbreaks long-term. Many of us rely on UV Sterilizers that are either too small for our systems; have the wrong flowrate running through them; or any combination of these two points. Do a bit of research and find a good sizing reference. I like the Aqua-Ultraviolet sizing charts that can be found on their website.
Below is what I have done:
• System A – After fighting Dinos and GHA for almost a year on a 250 Gallon reef tank that I took over servicing; I installed a large 55W High Output UV Sterilizer being run by a 2200gph pump. I instructed the Client to do a 3 day black-out and he has never seen Dinos since. This was immediate and effective. This was almost two years ago, still no Dinos, and no GHA.

• System B – After fighting Dinos and GHA for over 2 years on a tank that I installed with dry rock; I legitimately thought the Client was going to ditch me and his tank when he had to relocate… Fortunately for me, he loves having a piece of the ocean in his office; and gave me free reign to improve on my original setup. This time, I was wise to the value of a correctly spec’d UV and was able to install a 55W HO Unit plumbed directly into his 3000 gph return pump. All of the water runs through this unit before returning to the tank. I can turn this unit off or run it on any schedule I think will work best. In the beginning I only ran the UV over night for 8 hours. To my horror (actually learning opportunity) I began to see another outbreak of Dinoflagellates, even before adding my first corals. This is when I sprang a similar, yet slightly different strategy into action. I implemented a 24-hour (fulltime) UV operation schedule and drastically reduced its flow-through from approx. 2500 gph to somewhere near 700 gph. I tuned it for ‘kill mode’. However, instead of using a blackout for disrupting the Dinos, I physically gravel-washed them into filter socks everyday for a week. This had the effect of throwing them in the sump where they had to pass through the UV before returning to the Display, while avoiding water-changes. After a week, the sand bed was clean, but the reef structure remained coated with Dinos. I was able to spend about three sessions blowing the Dinos from the rock structure (to further disrupt) and performed a few more gravel washes. In some cases, a total blackout is a little less practical. This strategy was a little more work intensive but eventually worked just as successfully. This tank has been Dino-free for about eight months now. If I see any sign of a possible relapse, I simply reduce the UV flowrate back down to ‘kill-mode’ and we’re good to go. Most inspiring about this system is that I was able to accomplish in two weeks, what I could not in two years because I learned how to properly install a UV Sterilizer.
In summary, I would say this. Dinoflagellates no longer must be the curse that drives so may hobbyists away from this beautiful and awe-inspiring pastime. They are totally beatable. Personally I will never install another reef system without a UV from the start. If installed correctly, UV’s are your best insurance policy for solving Dinoflagellate issues. Good Luck All!!
Regards,
Sheldon J

[Michael Hoaster]

Thanks for sharing Scej12!

UV seems to be the one tool that works for all dinos. But, as you pointed out, the flow rate through the UV unit is important too. Most of us think that bigger is better, when it comes to pumps, but not for UV. Dwell time is important, so the slower the water passes through, the more dinos get zapped.