In Wall Construction Question

lpkirby · 01/12/2006, 05:42 PM

Hi Guys and Gals,

When constructing inwall tanks, any pointers to watch out for? Also I think I need to make my opening larger than I needed so that I can frame all the way around the opening then redrywall. I hope that makes since??? I have done minor drywall repair but nothing major. Any help or pictures would be great!

Thank you

Sindjin · 01/12/2006, 06:03 PM

So far your on the right track. I would watch to see whats above you...any floor joists, trusses or bearing points?

Yes, I would frame a bit larger. Im sure you'll add some casing/trim around the front of the tank anyway, right?

auto_loader · 01/12/2006, 06:04 PM

I have a few pictures on my web page. 120 gallon section.

lpkirby · 01/12/2006, 10:21 PM

Should I redo the entire wall with the green sheetrock because of the mositure or can I just paint it with some type of sealer?

Thanks

Dubbin1 · 01/12/2006, 10:25 PM

This is obvious but make sure there are no wires where you are cutting. If you feel like doing the green board it sure wouldn't hurt.

lpkirby · 01/12/2006, 11:09 PM

Yeah, Dubbin I have the plans to the house to make sure on the wires. But just to be safe I am going to use the skill saw first with about 3/4" cut to remove the sheetrock first and then look before I cut any 2x4's.

Thats the plan anyway..

Thanks

Dubbin1 · 01/12/2006, 11:14 PM

WHAT No sledge hammer???

misereef · 01/12/2006, 11:24 PM

Hey auto_loader,
Checked out you website. That sure turned out to be a perfect spot for you tank! looks good!

He some pictures of what I ran into during in-wall setup. (big pictures..)

www.mycoolspot.com/reefcentral/tank/wall.jpg
http://www.mycoolspot.com/reefcentra...tank_front.jpg
http://www.mycoolspot.com/reefcentra.../tank_back.jpg

Scuba_Dave · 01/12/2006, 11:29 PM

I would use cement board myself - in the inside of the fish area - it will never rot or fall apart
Most people make sure they leave extra room at the front top to be able to slide the tank in
One person said they angle cut the 2x4 to allow better access to the front glass for cleaning
I built my stand to hold about 2x my tank weight - lumber is cheap
Make sure you have enough GFI outlets & circuits for your equipment. Much easier to run this stuff when the walls are open
Basement or 1st floor installation, or?

I've seen the floor area sealed to about 3-4" up in fish rooms
If the tank leaks/breaks the water stays in the room, & fish/corals may have a slight chance of survival. Plus the rest of the area won't flood
In addition to tank ligts install some "normal" lights so you can work on the tank & see w/MH off. No fun burning your hand on those
I set my 125g up (not in wall) so the plumbing is at one end, & the elctric is at the other - as much as possible

Sindjin · 01/13/2006, 08:00 AM

Green board may work. In the production home building industry, we use green board ABOVE tiled areas but use Dura-Rock or DenShield for areas BEHIND tile. That may be your best bet.

lpkirby · 01/13/2006, 09:02 AM

Thank You everyone, I am taking notes and looking at the pictures. I will submit a sketch of the space later today.

Leon

Sindjin · 01/13/2006, 10:14 AM

If you remove the drywall and expose the wall/ceiling area, post some pics!

javajaws · 01/13/2006, 12:05 PM

You can follow my thread below for some detail on how I went about things...but I didn't create just an in-wall - I created an entire cabinet/stand in the wall around it as well.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...hreadid=745212

wildcats · 01/13/2006, 12:55 PM

I put pond liner on the tank using silicone, inserted the tank into the hole, pulled the pond liner into the rear room. The point was to seal moisture from evaporating into the wall cavity. I would consider green board but even another idea would be the plastic sheets they sell for showers in 4*8 sheets instead of drywall. Can paint it any color you like. Even green board may not deal with the constant humidity.

aquaman222 · 01/13/2006, 04:24 PM

When I use to maintain tanks, I had a customer who lined his in-wall tank area with some sort of plastic board, then it was sealed at the seams with silicone. Looked real nice and it was not porous, so he could wipe it down with no problem when it got covered with salt creep.

Abysswater · 01/13/2006, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by aquaman222
When I use to maintain tanks, I had a customer who lined his in-wall tank area with some sort of plastic board, then it was sealed at the seams with silicone. Looked real nice and it was not porous, so he could wipe it down with no problem when it got covered with salt creep.

Sounds like plastic laminate formica.

atoa · 01/14/2006, 03:09 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dubbin1
WHAT No sledge hammer???

I actually had to use one for my on-going in-wall project

Most houses are built with concrete here in PR (for insulation against heat and Hurricane protection).

01/12/2006, 05:42 PM	#1
lpkirby Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Hempstead, TX Posts: 701	In Wall Construction Question Hi Guys and Gals, When constructing inwall tanks, any pointers to watch out for? Also I think I need to make my opening larger than I needed so that I can frame all the way around the opening then redrywall. I hope that makes since??? I have done minor drywall repair but nothing major. Any help or pictures would be great! Thank you

01/12/2006, 06:03 PM	#2
Sindjin Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,436	So far your on the right track. I would watch to see whats above you...any floor joists, trusses or bearing points? Yes, I would frame a bit larger. Im sure you'll add some casing/trim around the front of the tank anyway, right? __________________ SeaTest Hydrometer?.... $8.00 Seachem Marine Test Kit? ...$24.00 The look on my wife's face as I'm staring out into our 35 acre lake and wondering how much salt I'll need?... Priceless. Current Tank Info: 120 gallon, DIY Stand & Canopy, 2-250w 14ks w/ 2- 110 VHO actinics, ASM G-3, 50g sump, 46x tank turnover.

01/12/2006, 11:24 PM	#8
misereef Premium Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CA Posts: 124	Hey auto_loader, Checked out you website. That sure turned out to be a perfect spot for you tank! looks good! He some pictures of what I ran into during in-wall setup. (big pictures..) www.mycoolspot.com/reefcentral/tank/wall.jpg http://www.mycoolspot.com/reefcentra...tank_front.jpg http://www.mycoolspot.com/reefcentra.../tank_back.jpg __________________ Thank God for shop-Vacs! Current Tank Info: In wall 75 gallon, 15 gallon refugium(separate tank), 20 gallon sump,1/3 hp chiller, open loop, and closed loop, DIY lighting, neptune aqua controller, 15k NG automatic backup generator

01/13/2006, 08:00 AM	#10
Sindjin Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,436	Green board may work. In the production home building industry, we use green board ABOVE tiled areas but use Dura-Rock or DenShield for areas BEHIND tile. That may be your best bet. __________________ SeaTest Hydrometer?.... $8.00 Seachem Marine Test Kit? ...$24.00 The look on my wife's face as I'm staring out into our 35 acre lake and wondering how much salt I'll need?... Priceless. Current Tank Info: 120 gallon, DIY Stand & Canopy, 2-250w 14ks w/ 2- 110 VHO actinics, ASM G-3, 50g sump, 46x tank turnover.

01/13/2006, 10:14 AM	#12
Sindjin Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Tampa Posts: 1,436	If you remove the drywall and expose the wall/ceiling area, post some pics! __________________ SeaTest Hydrometer?.... $8.00 Seachem Marine Test Kit? ...$24.00 The look on my wife's face as I'm staring out into our 35 acre lake and wondering how much salt I'll need?... Priceless. Current Tank Info: 120 gallon, DIY Stand & Canopy, 2-250w 14ks w/ 2- 110 VHO actinics, ASM G-3, 50g sump, 46x tank turnover.

01/12/2006, 06:04 PM	#3
auto_loader Premium Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Rochelle, IL Posts: 585	I have a few pictures on my web page. 120 gallon section.

01/12/2006, 10:21 PM	#4
lpkirby Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Hempstead, TX Posts: 701	Should I redo the entire wall with the green sheetrock because of the mositure or can I just paint it with some type of sealer? Thanks

01/12/2006, 10:25 PM	#5
Dubbin1 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Findlay, Ohio Posts: 11,540	This is obvious but make sure there are no wires where you are cutting. If you feel like doing the green board it sure wouldn't hurt.

01/12/2006, 11:09 PM	#6
lpkirby Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Hempstead, TX Posts: 701	Yeah, Dubbin I have the plans to the house to make sure on the wires. But just to be safe I am going to use the skill saw first with about 3/4" cut to remove the sheetrock first and then look before I cut any 2x4's. Thats the plan anyway.. Thanks

01/12/2006, 11:14 PM	#7
Dubbin1 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Findlay, Ohio Posts: 11,540	WHAT No sledge hammer???

01/12/2006, 11:29 PM	#9
Scuba_Dave EMERTXE YID Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Asylum, South of Boston, MA Posts: 10,362	I would use cement board myself - in the inside of the fish area - it will never rot or fall apart Most people make sure they leave extra room at the front top to be able to slide the tank in One person said they angle cut the 2x4 to allow better access to the front glass for cleaning I built my stand to hold about 2x my tank weight - lumber is cheap Make sure you have enough GFI outlets & circuits for your equipment. Much easier to run this stuff when the walls are open Basement or 1st floor installation, or? I've seen the floor area sealed to about 3-4" up in fish rooms If the tank leaks/breaks the water stays in the room, & fish/corals may have a slight chance of survival. Plus the rest of the area won't flood In addition to tank ligts install some "normal" lights so you can work on the tank & see w/MH off. No fun burning your hand on those I set my 125g up (not in wall) so the plumbing is at one end, & the elctric is at the other - as much as possible

01/13/2006, 09:02 AM	#11
lpkirby Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Hempstead, TX Posts: 701	Thank You everyone, I am taking notes and looking at the pictures. I will submit a sketch of the space later today. Leon

01/13/2006, 12:05 PM	#13
javajaws Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX Posts: 1,620	You can follow my thread below for some detail on how I went about things...but I didn't create just an in-wall - I created an entire cabinet/stand in the wall around it as well. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...hreadid=745212 __________________ Everyone has an opinion. Accept the fact now that someone isn't going to like yours sooner or later. Current Tank Info: 110g in-wall, ATI 8x54w T5, 2xMP40es, SRO XP-2000i, 2-part Ca/Alk, Apex controlled

01/13/2006, 12:55 PM	#14
wildcats Registered Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 92	I put pond liner on the tank using silicone, inserted the tank into the hole, pulled the pond liner into the rear room. The point was to seal moisture from evaporating into the wall cavity. I would consider green board but even another idea would be the plastic sheets they sell for showers in 4*8 sheets instead of drywall. Can paint it any color you like. Even green board may not deal with the constant humidity.

01/13/2006, 04:24 PM	#15
aquaman222 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Gallatin, TN Posts: 351	When I use to maintain tanks, I had a customer who lined his in-wall tank area with some sort of plastic board, then it was sealed at the seams with silicone. Looked real nice and it was not porous, so he could wipe it down with no problem when it got covered with salt creep. __________________ Five tangs in a 10 gallon. No problem, just use this Skilter filter. Good to go. Thanks Current Tank Info: 175 gallon mixed reef