Need help with lighting selection for odd-sized tank

EchoFish · 01/31/2006, 03:57 PM

Hello all,

I know there's numerous posts about lighting, but I have odd tank dimensions and would like some opinions on which would work best for my specific situaion.

This tank will be 30" long, 24" front-to-back, and 22" high. It will contain fish and softies, maybe LPS later. MH is not an option, as I'm not willing to run the fire/overheating risks. So that leaves PC, regular flourescent (HO and VHO), and T5.

Due to the odd length of the tank, if I were to choose T5 I would have to get 24" bulbs (which, I believe, are 24W). Seems a bit short and low wattage. And due to the FTB depth, I'd have to put probably 4 bulbs in, which I've heard can lead to a "striping" appearance in color.

So I guess I mainly need to chose between regular flourescent (HO or VHO) and PC. (I know VHO puts out more light than HO, but I've heard that it declines more rapidly and if I don't stay on top of things, it'll end up putting out less light than the HO -- true?) The tank will be in an alcove, so ventilation is slightly lacking. Basically, I need the best light output with the least heat, that fits on a 30" length.

Could someone more knowledgeable than myself (almost anyone) advise me? Thanks much!

Wryknow · 01/31/2006, 04:15 PM

I would get a 4 x 24W T5 ICECAP retrofit kit (I've heard good things about reefgeek.com.) The ICECAP ballast over-drives the T5s significantly and the individual reflectors are very efficient. The total number of watts can be very mis-leading in many cases, and this is one of them. This set-up will provide plenty of light for LPS and SPS when you're ready to add them but it is not inexpensive. If you go with VHO or PC lighting then you will be fine with softies and some LPS but will likely want to upgrade the lighting set-up later when you decide that you want to try SPS of anemones! :-).

Entropy · 01/31/2006, 04:16 PM

I think you are seriously selling yourself short by dismissing metal halides. I think a single 250w halide would take care of your tank nicely (assuming no center brace).

Other wise I would go with a 6 bulb 24w T5 setup and just stagger the bulbs so you get full coverage.

EchoFish · 01/31/2006, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Wryknow
The total number of watts can be very mis-leading in many cases, and this is one of them.

Thanks, that clears up some questions I had about T5. And I know IceCap make good, efficient endcaps / electronic ballasts.

Quote:

Originally posted by Entropy
I think you are seriously selling yourself short by dismissing metal halides.

I know that MH is good, and could easily work for this tank. But, I'm scared to death of a housefire. Also, there's the issue of the lack of circulation. Plus, don't they eat up a lot more electricity?

If I could reconcile the dangers of MH to myself, I would. I'd love to have an AquaLight (150W MH + 2 PC actinics and moonlights).

Entropy · 01/31/2006, 04:41 PM

IMO there is no more danger with metal halide than T5 or VHO. You have a lot less sockets to come loose, less wiring, and less bulbs to fail. Halides do run hotter, but nothing a simple fan or two will not overcome, especially on a small halide like the 150w. They eat up more power than a t5 setup, but not by much in your case, and bulb replacement is cheaper. Figure about 150w for the 6x24w t5, and about 200w for the halide + pc setup.

TheCoralNabber · 01/31/2006, 04:43 PM

I've heard more issues with VHOs and fires by not having them placed into the endcaps right then I have with metal halides at all. I love my MHs, but t5s have really caught my eye lately. If you are worried about heat then that is a viable concern with metal halides.

TheCoralNabber · 01/31/2006, 04:44 PM

Don't the Aqualights have a fan built into them? That will already help you with your temperature concerns

EchoFish · 01/31/2006, 05:09 PM

Yes, the aqualights come with fans built in. These are the spec of the setup I want:

1-150 watt 10,000K double-ended HQI metal halide lamp
2-65 watt True Actinic 03 Blue square-pin compact fluorescent lamps
2-1 watt Lunar Blue-Moon-Glow 470nm LED lamps
One external HQI metal halide ballast with on/off switch, 12-foot lamp cord and 6-foot power cord
Two on/off switches and two 12-foot power cords (one for two True Actinic 03 Blue compact fluorescent lamps and one for two Lunar Blue-Moon-Glow 470nm LED lamps)
anodized black-aluminum housing
Highly-polished reflectors
Built-in cooling fan
Acrylic compact fluorescent and glass lens covers

Just lovely...

TheCoralNabber · 01/31/2006, 09:39 PM

that sounds pretty good to me, I'm getting about 4 watts/gallon on the lighting, and for what you want to keep it will be really nice. Are those made by Current? I don't remember.

EchoFish · 01/31/2006, 09:50 PM

Those are made by Coralife. I think I'll be going with this setup, except for a retrofit kit instead of the hood. Gonna buy a small PC to put on the new tank (temporary) and get this in a few months. We won't really need it until we put the softies in anyway.

Feel free to post if you have any more comments. Thanks for your help!

TheCoralNabber · 01/31/2006, 11:04 PM

ok, wasn't sure if it was Current or Coralife. I've got the Current one on my tank at the LFS. It doesn't have the dual PCs just the single DE 150W MH, and 6 moon lights. I've been very pleased with it, although the lamp looks really white. I'd get the two PCs to help with color.

Dan

EchoFish · 01/31/2006, 11:36 PM

That's a good idea. The true actinic 03 should compliment the 10000K nicely.

TheCoralNabber · 02/01/2006, 11:00 AM

I think that they will as well. The bulb might be different between the Current and the Coralife, but the bulb on the Current is supposed to be a 15K, but I'd hate to see what the 10K looks like. Might have to check on the bulb to see what brand it is. When the time comes to replace it I'll probably try and have the owners order a different bulb.

01/31/2006, 03:57 PM	#1
EchoFish Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Springfield Posts: 77	Need help with lighting selection for odd-sized tank Hello all, I know there's numerous posts about lighting, but I have odd tank dimensions and would like some opinions on which would work best for my specific situaion. This tank will be 30" long, 24" front-to-back, and 22" high. It will contain fish and softies, maybe LPS later. MH is not an option, as I'm not willing to run the fire/overheating risks. So that leaves PC, regular flourescent (HO and VHO), and T5. Due to the odd length of the tank, if I were to choose T5 I would have to get 24" bulbs (which, I believe, are 24W). Seems a bit short and low wattage. And due to the FTB depth, I'd have to put probably 4 bulbs in, which I've heard can lead to a "striping" appearance in color. So I guess I mainly need to chose between regular flourescent (HO or VHO) and PC. (I know VHO puts out more light than HO, but I've heard that it declines more rapidly and if I don't stay on top of things, it'll end up putting out less light than the HO -- true?) The tank will be in an alcove, so ventilation is slightly lacking. Basically, I need the best light output with the least heat, that fits on a 30" length. Could someone more knowledgeable than myself (almost anyone) advise me? Thanks much!

01/31/2006, 04:15 PM	#2
Wryknow Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 1,203	I would get a 4 x 24W T5 ICECAP retrofit kit (I've heard good things about reefgeek.com.) The ICECAP ballast over-drives the T5s significantly and the individual reflectors are very efficient. The total number of watts can be very mis-leading in many cases, and this is one of them. This set-up will provide plenty of light for LPS and SPS when you're ready to add them but it is not inexpensive. If you go with VHO or PC lighting then you will be fine with softies and some LPS but will likely want to upgrade the lighting set-up later when you decide that you want to try SPS of anemones! :-). __________________ You cannot use reason to change the opinion of a person that did not use reason to form their opinion in the first place. Current Tank Info: 65 G RR, w/ 50 G sump/refugium, DIY LED lighting, AquaMaxx CO-1 skimmer, Tunze 1073.050 return

01/31/2006, 04:16 PM	#3
Entropy Texas Reefer Join Date: May 2003 Location: Round Rock, TX Posts: 13,656	I think you are seriously selling yourself short by dismissing metal halides. I think a single 250w halide would take care of your tank nicely (assuming no center brace). Other wise I would go with a 6 bulb 24w T5 setup and just stagger the bulbs so you get full coverage. __________________ Rich Overton 150G cube FOWLR, 30g sump, ReefKeeperII, 3x Koralia 1400's, QuiteOne 3000, Reef Octopus DNWB150, 4x 30w Par38 LED. Current Tank Info: 36x36x27 150g

01/31/2006, 04:41 PM	#5
Entropy Texas Reefer Join Date: May 2003 Location: Round Rock, TX Posts: 13,656	IMO there is no more danger with metal halide than T5 or VHO. You have a lot less sockets to come loose, less wiring, and less bulbs to fail. Halides do run hotter, but nothing a simple fan or two will not overcome, especially on a small halide like the 150w. They eat up more power than a t5 setup, but not by much in your case, and bulb replacement is cheaper. Figure about 150w for the 6x24w t5, and about 200w for the halide + pc setup. __________________ Rich Overton 150G cube FOWLR, 30g sump, ReefKeeperII, 3x Koralia 1400's, QuiteOne 3000, Reef Octopus DNWB150, 4x 30w Par38 LED. Current Tank Info: 36x36x27 150g

01/31/2006, 04:43 PM	#6
TheCoralNabber Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Durham, NC Posts: 554	I've heard more issues with VHOs and fires by not having them placed into the endcaps right then I have with metal halides at all. I love my MHs, but t5s have really caught my eye lately. If you are worried about heat then that is a viable concern with metal halides. __________________ This spot for rent for frags! Back at it... Watch out or I'll Nab your Corals! Current Tank Info: 12g nano been going since '04 has been mostly FO but not adding some more corals

01/31/2006, 04:44 PM	#7
TheCoralNabber Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Durham, NC Posts: 554	Don't the Aqualights have a fan built into them? That will already help you with your temperature concerns __________________ This spot for rent for frags! Back at it... Watch out or I'll Nab your Corals! Current Tank Info: 12g nano been going since '04 has been mostly FO but not adding some more corals

01/31/2006, 05:09 PM	#8
EchoFish Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Springfield Posts: 77	Yes, the aqualights come with fans built in. These are the spec of the setup I want: 1-150 watt 10,000K double-ended HQI metal halide lamp 2-65 watt True Actinic 03 Blue square-pin compact fluorescent lamps 2-1 watt Lunar Blue-Moon-Glow 470nm LED lamps One external HQI metal halide ballast with on/off switch, 12-foot lamp cord and 6-foot power cord Two on/off switches and two 12-foot power cords (one for two True Actinic 03 Blue compact fluorescent lamps and one for two Lunar Blue-Moon-Glow 470nm LED lamps) anodized black-aluminum housing Highly-polished reflectors Built-in cooling fan Acrylic compact fluorescent and glass lens covers Just lovely...

01/31/2006, 09:39 PM	#9
TheCoralNabber Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Durham, NC Posts: 554	that sounds pretty good to me, I'm getting about 4 watts/gallon on the lighting, and for what you want to keep it will be really nice. Are those made by Current? I don't remember. __________________ This spot for rent for frags! Back at it... Watch out or I'll Nab your Corals! Current Tank Info: 12g nano been going since '04 has been mostly FO but not adding some more corals

01/31/2006, 09:50 PM	#10
EchoFish Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Springfield Posts: 77	Those are made by Coralife. I think I'll be going with this setup, except for a retrofit kit instead of the hood. Gonna buy a small PC to put on the new tank (temporary) and get this in a few months. We won't really need it until we put the softies in anyway. Feel free to post if you have any more comments. Thanks for your help!

01/31/2006, 11:04 PM	#11
TheCoralNabber Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Durham, NC Posts: 554	ok, wasn't sure if it was Current or Coralife. I've got the Current one on my tank at the LFS. It doesn't have the dual PCs just the single DE 150W MH, and 6 moon lights. I've been very pleased with it, although the lamp looks really white. I'd get the two PCs to help with color. Dan __________________ This spot for rent for frags! Back at it... Watch out or I'll Nab your Corals! Current Tank Info: 12g nano been going since '04 has been mostly FO but not adding some more corals

01/31/2006, 11:36 PM	#12
EchoFish Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Springfield Posts: 77	That's a good idea. The true actinic 03 should compliment the 10000K nicely.

02/01/2006, 11:00 AM	#13
TheCoralNabber Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Durham, NC Posts: 554	I think that they will as well. The bulb might be different between the Current and the Coralife, but the bulb on the Current is supposed to be a 15K, but I'd hate to see what the 10K looks like. Might have to check on the bulb to see what brand it is. When the time comes to replace it I'll probably try and have the owners order a different bulb. __________________ This spot for rent for frags! Back at it... Watch out or I'll Nab your Corals! Current Tank Info: 12g nano been going since '04 has been mostly FO but not adding some more corals