House already has RO unit add DI?

Tampico · 02/01/2006, 09:25 PM

My house already has this installed

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80HDUS/...rchResults.jsp

Can I add anything to this inline to get my RO/DI or do I have to go buy a whole unit

Treg · 02/01/2006, 09:36 PM

I had one of those...

The actual filters inside that unit are not as good as you get in other RO and DI units.

You would be better off with a new unit.
Good Budget units would be a typhoon 3@ airwaterice.com or an RO/DI unit from buckeyefieldsupply.com.

For high quality look @ spectrapure.

Spuds725 · 02/01/2006, 09:49 PM

I'd get a TDS meter first and check it... (you will probably want one anyway if you are going to add a DI or buy a new RO/DI)-- handheld ones cost about $25 or so.

Depending on your raw water and how efficient the RO unit is you might want to just keep it and add the DI stage.

For instance... I have well water with 400+ ppm TDS... a 98% rejection RO Unit (SPectrapure also Treg) so my RO puts out 8 ppm TDS... my DI takes this to 0.

If (for example) you have say 100 PPM Raw water, and a 90% rejection RO unit, you will have RO water at 10 PPM TDS-- not much different from my situation-- in this case it would be adequate...

If you are referring to that GE smartwater unit in that link... I have that for drinking water in my house-- its a 96% rejection membrane (gives me 16 ppm TDS)-- I just checked it the other day-- I just bought my TDS meter and was checking everything...

I'd consider this verticle DI stage (top middle) and the Refillable DI canisters that are just ot the right of it.
http://www.airwaterice.com/category/di_deionization/

//edit//

according to this page the membrane on that unit has a 75% to 92% rejection... listed in the table and there is a note on this at the bottom....

http://www.gesmartwatersolutions.com...ison-chart.htm

I'm not absolutely sure I have the same membrane... I've had it a few years-- but did buy it at home depot. It is a GE and it looks similar--puts out 25 GPD.

I run mine at about 50 PSI (well water pump)-- it will likely run better at higher pressure.

Treg · 02/01/2006, 10:04 PM

You know what, I jumped the gun there with my answer, Spuds is right on. Measure your TDS first.

Actually, even if your TDS is high, I think you can replace that membrane with one of the quality ones like a spectrapure. (I believe they are the same size, been awile.) You should be replacing the sediment and carbon filters every so often anyway... upgrade those when you do.

Keep in mind tho, If you add a DI stage to that unit, your not suppose to drink DI water.

Spuds725 · 02/01/2006, 10:42 PM

I'll ditto everything in Tregs post-- especially the not drinking DI water-- you can tee off the output if you want to split off water for drinking and water going to your DI.

I think membranes are interchangeable-- but I would contact buckeyefieldsupply.com or airwaterice.com and ask them to be sure... I've only dealt with AWI-- but from what I read, both have excellent customer service...

Tampico · 02/01/2006, 10:52 PM

Great thanks for the response. Will get a meter and see. I'd want to T the system any way. It has that goose neck faucet that you can barely get a glass under. Would need to add something in the cabinet to fill a suitable transport container anyway. would look silly running makeup water with a 12oz glass..... Maybe I could sell the video of that and make some $$$ to help this project that is on a serious budget. Every penny saved is a little more rock. Prices for LR are much higher now than they were @ chirstmas when this first started to be budgeted.

Pressure in this house is not a problem. from the street to the regulator I see 100-120psi regulator is having a tough time keeping it @ 60 to the house.

Treg · 02/01/2006, 11:40 PM

60 psi inhouse is a good thing, as far as your RO unit goes anyway...

There are so many things you could do if you wanted... With Ice maker tubbing from Lowes and some John Guest fittings, the skys the limit. If you have a basement drill a 1/4" hole in the floor and run 100' of tubbing straight to the tank if need be... Bypass that (metal) goose neck faucet all together, or save it for straight RO drinking water from the tank.

Also, FWIW I have a $30 inline TDS meter on my ro/di I bought from premiumaquatics. I love it. Pretty simple to use but Mainly cuzz it's hooked inline and I cant lose it.

Good Luck, Hope we helped.

bergzy · 02/02/2006, 01:08 AM

it is easier than clipping your taoenails adding a dual stage di to an existing ro unit...

call up someone like spectrapure...

ask for two empy canister and 2 refillable cartridges...

get a bag of anion and cation...

fill the canister to the recommendations...

splice a line from you ro tank into the di cartridges...

make sure you have a on/off valve at the end of the di catridges or you'll be mopping water as you run to home depot to get one!!!

Spuds725 · 02/02/2006, 02:04 AM

Especially with John Guest type push in tubing fittings... http://www.aquaticreefsystems.com/jo...O_Fittings.htm

They sell couplers, tees, adapters, and valves with these at home depot and lowes stores...

Therbligs · 02/02/2006, 07:46 AM

Quote:

would look silly running makeup water with a 12oz glass.....

Just add makeup water every hour or two.

You could T off of the unit and run a valve controlled line to a remote collection area or to your sump.

02/01/2006, 09:25 PM	#1
Tampico Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Mount Joy Pa Posts: 55	House already has RO unit add DI? My house already has this installed http://www.homedepot.com/prel80HDUS/...rchResults.jsp Can I add anything to this inline to get my RO/DI or do I have to go buy a whole unit

02/01/2006, 09:49 PM	#3
Spuds725 Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Toledo, Ohio USA Posts: 2,051	I'd get a TDS meter first and check it... (you will probably want one anyway if you are going to add a DI or buy a new RO/DI)-- handheld ones cost about $25 or so. Depending on your raw water and how efficient the RO unit is you might want to just keep it and add the DI stage. For instance... I have well water with 400+ ppm TDS... a 98% rejection RO Unit (SPectrapure also Treg) so my RO puts out 8 ppm TDS... my DI takes this to 0. If (for example) you have say 100 PPM Raw water, and a 90% rejection RO unit, you will have RO water at 10 PPM TDS-- not much different from my situation-- in this case it would be adequate... If you are referring to that GE smartwater unit in that link... I have that for drinking water in my house-- its a 96% rejection membrane (gives me 16 ppm TDS)-- I just checked it the other day-- I just bought my TDS meter and was checking everything... I'd consider this verticle DI stage (top middle) and the Refillable DI canisters that are just ot the right of it. http://www.airwaterice.com/category/di_deionization/ //edit// according to this page the membrane on that unit has a 75% to 92% rejection... listed in the table and there is a note on this at the bottom.... http://www.gesmartwatersolutions.com...ison-chart.htm I'm not absolutely sure I have the same membrane... I've had it a few years-- but did buy it at home depot. It is a GE and it looks similar--puts out 25 GPD. I run mine at about 50 PSI (well water pump)-- it will likely run better at higher pressure. __________________ "I only have time to neglect one tank"-- Me "I don't want to achieve immortality through my work, I want to achieve immortality by not dying"-- Woody Allen Current Tank Info: 125G mixed reef with 135G Sump

02/01/2006, 10:42 PM	#5
Spuds725 Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Toledo, Ohio USA Posts: 2,051	I'll ditto everything in Tregs post-- especially the not drinking DI water-- you can tee off the output if you want to split off water for drinking and water going to your DI. I think membranes are interchangeable-- but I would contact buckeyefieldsupply.com or airwaterice.com and ask them to be sure... I've only dealt with AWI-- but from what I read, both have excellent customer service... __________________ "I only have time to neglect one tank"-- Me "I don't want to achieve immortality through my work, I want to achieve immortality by not dying"-- Woody Allen Current Tank Info: 125G mixed reef with 135G Sump

02/02/2006, 01:08 AM	#8
bergzy Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: OC CA USA Posts: 5,299	it is easier than clipping your taoenails adding a dual stage di to an existing ro unit... call up someone like spectrapure... ask for two empy canister and 2 refillable cartridges... get a bag of anion and cation... fill the canister to the recommendations... splice a line from you ro tank into the di cartridges... make sure you have a on/off valve at the end of the di catridges or you'll be mopping water as you run to home depot to get one!!! __________________ The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule it. H.L. Mencken Ben. Current Tank Info: 180g sps, 90g cube clam biotope.

02/02/2006, 02:04 AM	#9
Spuds725 Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Toledo, Ohio USA Posts: 2,051	Especially with John Guest type push in tubing fittings... http://www.aquaticreefsystems.com/jo...O_Fittings.htm They sell couplers, tees, adapters, and valves with these at home depot and lowes stores... __________________ "I only have time to neglect one tank"-- Me "I don't want to achieve immortality through my work, I want to achieve immortality by not dying"-- Woody Allen Current Tank Info: 125G mixed reef with 135G Sump

02/01/2006, 09:36 PM	#2
Treg Premium Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Ohio Posts: 2,739	I had one of those... The actual filters inside that unit are not as good as you get in other RO and DI units. You would be better off with a new unit. Good Budget units would be a typhoon 3@ airwaterice.com or an RO/DI unit from buckeyefieldsupply.com. For high quality look @ spectrapure.

02/01/2006, 10:04 PM	#4
Treg Premium Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Ohio Posts: 2,739	You know what, I jumped the gun there with my answer, Spuds is right on. Measure your TDS first. Actually, even if your TDS is high, I think you can replace that membrane with one of the quality ones like a spectrapure. (I believe they are the same size, been awile.) You should be replacing the sediment and carbon filters every so often anyway... upgrade those when you do. Keep in mind tho, If you add a DI stage to that unit, your not suppose to drink DI water.

02/01/2006, 10:52 PM	#6
Tampico Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Mount Joy Pa Posts: 55	Great thanks for the response. Will get a meter and see. I'd want to T the system any way. It has that goose neck faucet that you can barely get a glass under. Would need to add something in the cabinet to fill a suitable transport container anyway. would look silly running makeup water with a 12oz glass..... Maybe I could sell the video of that and make some $$$ to help this project that is on a serious budget. Every penny saved is a little more rock. Prices for LR are much higher now than they were @ chirstmas when this first started to be budgeted. Pressure in this house is not a problem. from the street to the regulator I see 100-120psi regulator is having a tough time keeping it @ 60 to the house.

02/01/2006, 11:40 PM	#7
Treg Premium Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Ohio Posts: 2,739	60 psi inhouse is a good thing, as far as your RO unit goes anyway... There are so many things you could do if you wanted... With Ice maker tubbing from Lowes and some John Guest fittings, the skys the limit. If you have a basement drill a 1/4" hole in the floor and run 100' of tubbing straight to the tank if need be... Bypass that (metal) goose neck faucet all together, or save it for straight RO drinking water from the tank. Also, FWIW I have a $30 inline TDS meter on my ro/di I bought from premiumaquatics. I love it. Pretty simple to use but Mainly cuzz it's hooked inline and I cant lose it. Good Luck, Hope we helped.