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Unread 04/27/2006, 09:18 AM   #1
RobNJ
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Lighting for a FOWLR

Hello everyone,

What lighting is required for FOWLR. Would MH be best? or a little over kill?

Would love for someone to enlighten me

Thanks
Rob


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Unread 04/27/2006, 09:28 AM   #2
beard
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A bit over kill unless you plan to keep corals down the road T5 PC VHO or NO floresents will do just fine.


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Unread 04/27/2006, 09:36 AM   #3
VoidRaven
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For a FOWLR I would definitely say that MH is overkill UNLESS you want to go full reef within a year. If you eventually want to go reef then it *might* be worth the investment. Otherwise, if you are just going FOWLR I would say go with a nice NO setup and save yourself a bunch of $$$. The nice thing is, depending on the tank size/depth, you can also go reef with NO lights. I've seen dozens of very nice reef tanks that run NO lighting. Mind you, they are pretty much all softy and LPS, but that offers a lot of coral choices still.

Just don't waste money on PC lighting. PC's are really not worth the cost. If I had the $$$ I would get rid of mine and go NO on my 55g.


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Unread 04/27/2006, 09:59 AM   #4
RobNJ
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Quote:
Originally posted by VoidRaven
For a FOWLR I would definitely say that MH is overkill UNLESS you want to go full reef within a year. If you eventually want to go reef then it *might* be worth the investment. Otherwise, if you are just going FOWLR I would say go with a nice NO setup and save yourself a bunch of $$$. The nice thing is, depending on the tank size/depth, you can also go reef with NO lights. I've seen dozens of very nice reef tanks that run NO lighting. Mind you, they are pretty much all softy and LPS, but that offers a lot of coral choices still.

Just don't waste money on PC lighting. PC's are really not worth the cost. If I had the $$$ I would get rid of mine and go NO on my 55g.
Not to be a total newb but what does NO stand for?


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Unread 04/27/2006, 10:02 AM   #5
beard
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normal floresents


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Unread 04/27/2006, 10:29 AM   #6
Weller
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Where's a good place to buy NO's? The tube I have is very purple in color. I'd like something bright white. The LFS has a little rack of several different tubes (no 2 are the same) and I don't know where to begin.


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Unread 04/27/2006, 10:44 AM   #7
beard
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Get a good 50/50 or 10000k or higher bulb the higher the kelvin rating the bluer the light 12000k or so will give you a nice white light with a hint of blue.


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Unread 04/27/2006, 10:47 AM   #8
L and L
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In my 30g FOwLR (sumpless, skimmerless) I use Normal Flourescents (two 20w Power-Glo (18000K)) and it works fine and looks good.

I also have plenty of coralline algae and button polyps growing.


layne


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Current Tank Info: 100g Reef with DSB 120#LR (30g Sump /20g Refugium /20g RO/DI /5g Kalk) VHO 280w MH 2@175 10kk LiterMeter III (RO/DI and Kalk) Velocity pumps T3(sump) and T4(closed loop) EuroReef CS6-2 and 30g FOwLR (DSB, sumpless, skimmerless)
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Unread 04/27/2006, 10:53 AM   #9
VoidRaven
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Whoops, sorry about that RobNJ! I really need to remember not to use abbreviations as much.

Yeah, NO = Normal Output or Normal Flourescents. VHO = Very High Output...still a type of flourescent but a bit more power.

Hey, if Spaceman Spiff (L and L) can testify that it looks good then it must be OK!!

One of my friends who is also here on RC, she goes by the name "efroggies" has NO bulbs on her 40g breeder reef tank and they look great.


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Unread 04/27/2006, 10:57 AM   #10
Weller
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I've been trying to ready up, but I'm still a newbie to lighting. Don't VHO's need a different ballast than NO's?


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Unread 04/27/2006, 11:04 AM   #11
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Yes it does.


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Unread 04/27/2006, 12:38 PM   #12
RobNJ
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Quote:
Originally posted by L and L
In my 30g FOwLR (sumpless, skimmerless) I use Normal Flourescents (two 20w Power-Glo (18000K)) and it works fine and looks good.

I also have plenty of coralline algae and button polyps growing.


layne
Do you have a filter on the tank?


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Unread 04/27/2006, 04:06 PM   #13
L and L
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I sent you a reply to PM. But here it is for the general public too.


I don't have any mechanical filtering on my 30g... just biological filtering with my live rock, deep sand bed (fine aragonite oolitic sand) and caulerpa macro algae (got some cool red grape caulerpa Jakarta also).

Probably have around 50-75 lbs of Fiji live rock and 3-6" of DSB.

Two hagen 402 powerheads, one Ebo-Jager heater and two 20w NO Flourscents.

hehe, I forgot about my website that had all the details. doh.


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Unread 04/27/2006, 05:18 PM   #14
CrOsSwIrE
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I have a 125gal FOWLR, and I use vho bulbs. They really bring out the color of the fish. They are a bit pricey, but I think it was worth the investment.


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Unread 04/27/2006, 08:17 PM   #15
L and L
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I agree with you crosswire. It all depends on what your budget is RobNJ including cost of electricity to keep it going.

What tank size are you looking at RobNJ?

oh yeah, another factor to my 30g is that it's a mature tank (5-1/2 years old). It works just fine for my bedroom tank. And it doesn't cause my electric meter to spin even more.... in addition to my reef tank (MH/VHO combo).

Here's the website for the 30g. Pardon the lack of time to update it. Those two fish are not in that tank anymore... but, the rest of the "guts" is still the same. It has some cool macro starfish pics I took. L and L's 30g FOwLR


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Unread 04/27/2006, 08:37 PM   #16
RobNJ
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Thanks everyone, I am thinking about converting my 40g freshwater into a FOWLR. I want to try to move my fw hobby to sw without going crazy on investment.

Currently I have for my freshwater tank

2 300 gph powerheads
1 fluval 204 canister filter
200 watt heater
digital thermometer
40g tank and light, light is regular florescent

The above setup keeps my fw tank flawless and the fish i have had for years.
whats else would i need, I guess i could use a protein skimmer, but that probally wouldnt even be necessary, however that wouldnt be that huge of a cost.

thoughts anyone?


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Unread 04/27/2006, 09:19 PM   #17
L and L
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Sounds good. NO flourscents will be fine.

You'll need a salinity hydrometer. I started in this hobby w/ a Aquarium Systems SEATEST Specific Gravity Meter. Awhile back, they varied +- something... so, if you do get this (which I think they are fine)... do check it out and see what the reading is compared to a refractometer (which is what I have now). Have your LFS test their water and then test it w/ the hydrometer and you'll know if it's reading correctly. And CLEAN it w/ RO water when you get finished using it. Salt will build up in there. Also be careful of air bubbles on the tip. Tap on the side to knock all the bubbles off of it. It for sure will give you a false reading w/ bubbles on it. =) Temperature also matters with the hyrdrometer. =)

Now you know why I use the refractometer. heh

And you'll need some test kits. Nitrate, Nitrite, Ammonia, pH (maybe Alkalinity). Get Salifert test kits. Top notch IMO.

What fish are you looking at? A light fish load would be fine w/o a skimmer imo. General saltwater rule of thumb 1" of fish per 5 gallon saltwater. ...ie you can have 8" of fish in your 40g.

I don't have any experience w/ that canister filter. If you set it up and let it mature a few months past the nitrogen cycle... I wouldn't use it.... but, then again I really don't know what it is. hehe

If you have live rock and deep sand bed it has the aerobic and anaerobic bacteria you'll need. Caulerpa is a very nice addition too, but a tang will mow it DOWN!. Hence, why I have a Coral Beauty Dwarf Angelfish in my 30g.

I'm sure I forgot something... but, it's dinnertime! gotta go,


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Unread 04/28/2006, 09:59 AM   #18
asnatlas
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I would look into T5s...

If you are going with a 40 Long (48x13x16) then I would say that a 4x54w setup would be perfect and you could have 2x 11000K along with 2x Blue Plus and do a dusk to dawn effect...

I would also look into a Refractometer as well, much more actuate...


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Unread 04/28/2006, 10:24 AM   #19
RobNJ
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i already own a 40high, if i was to spend that i would just look into metal halide for another 2 hundred


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