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07/22/2006, 08:25 AM | #1 |
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RO Unit reading @ 45 ppm is this right?
my ro is reading 45ppm is this an accurate reading or do I need to shoot for 0ppm/ I have had it for 3 months with about 400 gallons that have been run through the system...should I change out the filters yet?
Thanks alot Joe |
07/22/2006, 09:19 AM | #2 |
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bump?
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07/22/2006, 09:24 AM | #3 |
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what is the reading of the water before it goes into the RO unit?
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07/22/2006, 10:02 AM | #4 |
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To know if it is good or bad you nee the tap water and the finished water TDS. Depending on what membrane you have the rejection rate should be between 90 and 98%. What are you using to test the TDS and how are you using it? If its an inline try reversing the probes and see if thta makes any difference. If its a handheld make sure you are using a very clean glass or vessel to capture the water or you will be getting false readings. If you are testing out of a brute trash can or other storage container what you see is probably normal .
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07/22/2006, 10:21 AM | #5 |
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ITS AN INLINE TDS METER I HAVENT HOOKED THE METER UP TO THE INLINE YET JUST THE OUTLINE GOING TO THE WATER CONTAINER...
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07/22/2006, 10:24 AM | #6 |
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Quit yelling, we are not hard of hearing! Hook it up to both sides and see how its working. Then switch probes and see again. I don't have much faith in inline TDS meters as they are not real accurate, they make a good rough indicator though and give you and idea of when to pull the handheld meter out and test it.
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07/24/2006, 08:09 AM | #7 |
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thanks alot I'll get the inline going into the ro hooked up this week and see the difference...about how many gallons can be run through one before changing the filters?
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07/24/2006, 08:14 AM | #8 |
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Sediment and carbon filters normally get changed out every 6 months. RO membranes should last about 3 years, some more some less. If you have a DI filter, it varies depending on how much resin it holds, your RO water quality and how much water you make. The only way to tell is with the TDS meter or a resistivity meter.
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07/24/2006, 08:16 AM | #9 |
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thanks...I usually fill up my 35 gallon holding tank atleat 3 days prior to a water change and run pumps through it!
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07/24/2006, 08:24 AM | #10 |
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45ppm... not good. Has this increased? Was it ever 0? What brand? My tap water reads about 182 and after my ro/di it reads 0. 45... do you have alot of algae?
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07/24/2006, 08:26 AM | #11 |
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I dont have alot of algae I did when I first set the tank up.....I have run about 400 gallons now through it....Ill find the make in a few minutes for you....I just hooked the tds meter up last week so Im not sure what It was to start ?
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07/24/2006, 08:34 AM | #12 |
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New Reef 6st 100GPD Reverse Osmosis RO+DI Water Filters 15 lb. (Net Weight) 16 lb. (Gross Weight) 15.5 inches x 6.5 inches x 18 inches (W x L x H) Package Content 1 x 6-Stage Reverse Osmosis RO+DI System with 1 x 10" 5 micron Polypropylene sediment Pre-Filter with housing with 1 x 10" CTO granular activated carbon Pre-Filter with housing with 1 x 10" 1 micron coconut carbon block Pre-Filter with housing with 1 x 10" Premiun Quality Housing for Reverse Osmosis Membrane with 1 x 10" USA Purolite Clear De-Ionized DI Post-Filter with 1 x 10" in-line granular activated carbon Post-Filter with 1 x Auto Shut Off Valve with 1 x Quality Calibrated Ball Valve Flow Restrictor & Quick Membrane Wash twist switch with 1 x Built in check valve 1 x sealed TFC (made in USA) 100 GPD RO Membrane 1 x Filter Housing Wrench 4 x 60" Color Coded Premium Food Grade Tubing 1 x Saddle Clamp Drain Valve 1 x Feed Water Device: (Please advice in your payment notice, if you need option A or B) There are 3 different Feed Water Devices: Regular: 1 x 1/4" Needle Valve http://61.220.188.82/items/Pic/22-01-P1.jpg or Option A: 1 x Chrome 3/4" Tee with 1/4" Ball Valve http://61.220.188.82/items/Pic/22-01-P1-1.jpg or Option B: 2 x Chrome 15/16" Tee with 1/4" Ball Valve http://61.220.188.82/items/Pic/22-01-P1-2.jpg (for garden hose) http://61.220.188.82/items/Pic/22-03-P1-4.jpg |
07/24/2006, 08:51 AM | #13 |
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Okay, listen... firts of all I am not an expert on this. (And I'm not real crazy about Holiday Inn Express.) In the research I have done it seems to me to be an agreed upon important component is the RO Membrane. There are a few differing opinions, but the majority seem to claim that the DOM Filmtec membrane is the way to go. Your ppm (45) makes me think that no matter what else might need to be changed/replaced, your membrane isn't functioning very efficiently (If it were functioning at 90%, low end of decent, that would mean you are beginning with 450ppm! Dow functions, with right conditions, at more like 98%.) However, even without a membrane your DI resin ought to be doing better than that. Try to search around a bit for the filmtec membrane. I can't find where I purchase mine right now, but I will look. Also, many people seem to think that mounting your DI resin vertially gives a better disbursed flow through the resin and less channeling. (Mine is still horizontal with no problems, though I intend to change it one of these days.) Hope this helps.
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07/24/2006, 09:02 AM | #14 |
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thanks alot big help....I have emailed the guy I bout it from to see what he recommends?
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07/24/2006, 09:30 AM | #15 |
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Actually, I think it is from the inline carbon filter on the last stage. Carbon adds TDS to your water, giving the deionized water taste and a better smell.
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07/24/2006, 09:47 AM | #16 |
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Do not run your DI through the last carbon filter on top. It is for drinking water taste and odor only and will add TDS back into DI water. I don't know why vendors don't tell you that. Well yes I do, they are selling drinking water systems and passing them off as efficient RO/DI systems which normally they are not.
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07/24/2006, 10:03 AM | #17 |
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so bypass the top one?
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07/24/2006, 10:55 AM | #18 |
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For DI water yes.
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07/24/2006, 02:09 PM | #19 |
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your tds meter is most likely for sh*t. My inline lasted about 6 months. The probes they use are also usually bad. That's why i don't like the chambers you can't see into. If you use a clear DI chamber with color changing resin, you can see when you need to change the filters and/or DI cartridge.
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07/24/2006, 07:46 PM | #20 |
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Color changing resin is a very poor indicator of resin condition. Even an inline meter is much better. Don't rely on color changing as by the time it changes its too late and you have begun to pass TDS through, especially silicates and phosphates.
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07/24/2006, 11:44 PM | #21 |
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Where do you live in Kentucky lets look at your municipal water report and see what your dealing with? You have a 100 GPD membrane so your rejection rate is only 90%. The horizontal DI housings only hold a single cup of resin so it has limited capacity. If that 45 tds reading is correct your resin was toast in the first 40 gallons and is now anti productive.
Jim |
07/25/2006, 09:23 AM | #22 |
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what should I do get a new ro? or just replace the filters? I have a 210 gallon so I run alot of water through it ?????what should I do?
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07/25/2006, 09:31 AM | #23 |
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For start, you could check the TDS of the water from the membrane, before it hits the DI or carbon.
Second, take off the carbon filter. Test water coming out of the RO+DI. It should be very low in TDS. Third, you could get a full size vertical DI filter if water still isn't very good.
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07/25/2006, 09:40 AM | #24 |
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Joe the first question is what's in your city water chlorine or chloramines? The next question is what is your tap water TDS to see how your 100 GPD membrane stacks up? With the cost of upgrading what you have buying something new might be a better option. Let's see what your water quality is first and that will tell you how to proceed.
Jim |
07/25/2006, 09:51 AM | #25 |
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ok I will check the water coming into the ro....I havent hooked it because the line is copper and I have to cut it...lol Im a slacker...Ill post results later...you guys have been a great help...If the ro is bad Ill need some recommendations for a great ro chamber...
Joe |
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