Who keeps seahorse tanks?

Salty Brother · 08/08/2006, 09:14 PM

Just wondering what it takes to keep seahorses. I was thinking a 10 or 15gal tank with a pair of them. Also this would be in a year or so, so I would have plenty more time for research. And what kind of plants do you have to have in the tank, and what kind of filtration and light do they need.
Thanks for the help,
Patrick
P.S. pics would be great!

FelipeBastos · 08/08/2006, 09:54 PM

I am in the same boat setting up a dwarf seahorse tank/refugium soon.

I did A LOT of research, and have even been helping a PhD student with his research on these fascinating little creatures.

I used RC a lot, as well as seahorse.org, and another website which escapes me at the moment.

Salty Brother · 08/08/2006, 10:24 PM

Thank you, Im regerstering right now, and will also wait for replies here.

mr pink floyd · 08/08/2006, 10:25 PM

Quote:

and have even been helping a PhD student with his research on these fascinating little creatures.

not trying to be mean, but if you know so much, how come you didnt post answers to his questions?

Salty Brother · 08/09/2006, 09:57 AM

bump

Cellenzweig · 08/09/2006, 10:26 AM

I've never owned seahorses, but this is what I've been able to gather over a few months.

Tank - Height is preferrable to length/width. A tall tank is much better than a standard tank, as they don't swim all that much, but do move vertically, especially when mating. The size of the tank and the water temperature vary depending on the seahorse species.

Water flow - There should be very little flow through the tank, as seahorses are not strong swimmers. A small powerhead should do the trick. A lot of people seem to avoid sumps and skimmers in seahorse tanks to reduce to possibility of micro bubbles getting trapped in the male's pouch (very serious problem). From what I've seen, a lot of people use HOB filters.

Rock - Many people recommend not using live rock in seahorse tanks, as the horses may be injured by hitch-hikers, such as hydroids. From what I've read this is more of a problem with young seahorses. You can use dried (base) rock or DIY rock without any problems. That being said, I've seen quite a few nice tanks that do use LR.

Plants/etc... - Seahorses need objects to hitch to. I've seen people use everything from real and fake plants to small tonga branch to string as hitching spots. Gorgonians do a good job and they look natural, however you will probably need photosynthetic species and good light, as the non-photosynthetic species seem to need high flow or they get a waxy buildup and eventually die.

Feeding - Only buy seahorses that you have witnessed eating frozen mysis shrimp. It is sometimes difficult to get seahorses onto frozen food. As (I believe) seahorses are now protected by CITIES, they should all be captive bred and eating frozen food.

Tankmates - Seahorses should only be kept with other non-aggressive species. It is also important to make sure that the tankmates don't eat all the food before the seahorses get any, as they are pretty slow. The best tankmates would probably be pipefish and pipehorses.

Pretty basic, but I hope it helps...

Salty Brother · 08/09/2006, 10:34 AM

Thank you, Ive been waiting for someone to give me some answers like that.
So from that and other info that ive gathered Im thinking of this...
10gal aga
Aqua Clear 20 (basicly for carbon)
No Skimmer
Small 50gph powerhead
2 tank raised seahorses
Floeresnt Light? Is that enough for saltwater plants?
Hows that sound? And also, is base rock just normal rock? Like you dont buy it in water?
Thanks for the help again!

Salty Brother · 08/09/2006, 10:36 AM

Oh ya, if 10gallon is ok, there is a store near by that is going out of business and has 10gal tanks with hoods for $15.

Cellenzweig · 08/09/2006, 10:45 AM

Looks pretty good. I'd personally go with a 10g tall or 15g tall (probably the 15, as the price difference is minimal) if you're going with smaller species, or maybe a 20 tall for larger species. A standard 10 would probably be enough for smaller species, but not sure.

Base rock is just dried live rock. There is no life on it. You can usually get it pretty cheap. You can also make DIY rock following the instructions from GARF.org or in many threads here at RC.

Normal output flourescent light may be enough for some marine plants. Personally, if I was setting up a seahorse tank without coral, I would probably use the screw in compact flourescents from Home Depot and maybe some actinic for looks.

nickterp · 08/09/2006, 10:51 AM

I would go with something like a 20 or 25 tall at least. The difference in price for just buying the aquarium is going to be pretty small.

It'll be easier to keep water conditions more stable in a larger tank. This website recommends 10 gallons tanks only for seahorses that will not get above medium size and also mentions that they are too shallow for them to breed:
http://www.syngnathid.org/articles/stockingLevels.html

Since you got a decent amount of time, I would also pick up a book, or even go to borders, sit down and read one for free for a while

.

Salty Brother · 08/09/2006, 04:51 PM

Ok thanks, anyone else?

FelipeBastos · 08/16/2006, 12:18 PM

You may want to check this one out:

http://www.melevsreef.com/pico.html

Not really all that informative, but lots of pictures which always help.

Ciao,

Felipe

cmsargent · 08/16/2006, 12:56 PM

I agree with earlier posts that 10g isn't big enough. 15 tall would be the min and 20 would be even better.

FYI
Tank raised (TR) are not the same as captive breed (CB). TR have wild parents or were captured in the wild and raised in a tank. These seahorses still have alot of the same problems as wild caught in that they've been exposed to all the diseses and parasites that are present in wild populations. TR may be somewhat perferable to WC as they presumable have adjusted to tank life and may or may not be eating frozen.

However your best bet is going to be captive bred. There are several good suppliers of captive bred and the price isn't that much more that the wild ones (at least at the prices I've seen in my lfs). Personally I'd rather spend another $20-30 to get a horse that I know will eat frozen for me, doesn't have parasites, and will generally be hardier in a tank environment. Just my $0.02

Salty Brother · 08/16/2006, 04:20 PM

oh hey. Ive been doing a lot more reaseach on sh.org.
This the the final list, and I already have the tank up and running.
29gal
Hot magnum canister filter with carbon.
Air stone.
floresent light
Going to get
About 25lbs of rock, like 15lbs base rock, 10lbs LR.
2 cb H. erectus.

FelipeBastos · 08/16/2006, 04:58 PM

Dont forget to get plenty of things for them to hitch onto.
gorgonians, bracnhing rock, fake plants, whatever you use. The more, the merrier as it will simulate more the natural habitat of the SH.

Ciao,

Felipe

Samala · 08/16/2006, 06:42 PM

We do have a Seahorse and Pipefish forum here on RC. Go to the middle half of the main ReefCentral forums page, its underneath one of the later groupings. Some good information if you page back just a bit. Lots of people ask this question and the same general answers are provided. You may also want to check the FAQ thread.

Good luck!
>Sarah

Agu · 08/16/2006, 07:38 PM

Seahorses and Pipefish

MSAreef · 08/16/2006, 09:18 PM

I am in no way affiliated with Oceanrider but I have bought several horses from them. They are expensive, but they are hardy and healthy. But the biggest benefit of buying from them is their yahoo group. Go to oceanrider.com. There are 2 experts on there that give wonderful advice. In fact, you may even be able to join the group without buying. One expert who gives frequent advice is Pet Giwojna. He has written books on seahorses and hopefully, will be publishing a new one soon. He will guide you on seahorse set up requirements.

I have a 42 tall seahorse tank that has been up and running for a couple of years. I have 5 seahorses. A good HOB filter will provide good oxygenation with the waterfall effect. You do need adequate water circulation. I have 1 Maxi-jet. I have branching liverock and lots of calerpa. I also have a Bakpak skimmer. There are variations of thought regarding skimmers. Lots of people use fake decorations in an attempt to bring out the colors in the horses. I found that they were just algae magnets so I pulled them.

Salty Brother · 08/17/2006, 12:27 PM

I have a canister filter, airstone, and will probaby add like a 50gph powerhead. Im going to but a few pieces of braching rock, but im also going to have a few kinds of calerpa, and chaeto.

Rays · 08/17/2006, 01:27 PM

You want good filtration, but very low circulation. They are weak swimmers, and you want them to easily be able catch and eat the frozen mysis.

Salty Brother · 08/17/2006, 03:25 PM

I know, thats why i might not get a powerhead, but ill see. I still have to buy some calpera from this one guy

Samala · 08/17/2006, 03:31 PM

You can do a powerhead, but the intake has to be well covered and the output should be spread out over a short area so that it isnt too fast. Spraybars are great for this.

>Sarah

08/08/2006, 09:14 PM	#1
Salty Brother Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 1,119	Who keeps seahorse tanks? Just wondering what it takes to keep seahorses. I was thinking a 10 or 15gal tank with a pair of them. Also this would be in a year or so, so I would have plenty more time for research. And what kind of plants do you have to have in the tank, and what kind of filtration and light do they need. Thanks for the help, Patrick P.S. pics would be great!

08/16/2006, 06:42 PM	#16
Samala Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 2,930	We do have a Seahorse and Pipefish forum here on RC. Go to the middle half of the main ReefCentral forums page, its underneath one of the later groupings. Some good information if you page back just a bit. Lots of people ask this question and the same general answers are provided. You may also want to check the FAQ thread. Good luck! >Sarah __________________ "Seaweed is cool, seaweed is fun, it makes its food from the rays of the sun!"

08/16/2006, 07:38 PM	#17
Agu Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Sarasota, Florida Posts: 30,279	Seahorses and Pipefish __________________ Less technology , more biology . Current Tank Info: 30 gallon half cube and 5.5, both reef tanks

08/17/2006, 01:27 PM	#20
Rays Premium Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Mansfield, Ma Posts: 948	You want good filtration, but very low circulation. They are weak swimmers, and you want them to easily be able catch and eat the frozen mysis. __________________ What! I need this too? Current Tank Info: 90 seahorse, 60 hex seahorse, 55 reef

08/17/2006, 03:31 PM	#22
Samala Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 2,930	You can do a powerhead, but the intake has to be well covered and the output should be spread out over a short area so that it isnt too fast. Spraybars are great for this. >Sarah __________________ "Seaweed is cool, seaweed is fun, it makes its food from the rays of the sun!"

08/08/2006, 09:54 PM	#2
FelipeBastos Registered Member. Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: North Florida Posts: 236	I am in the same boat setting up a dwarf seahorse tank/refugium soon. I did A LOT of research, and have even been helping a PhD student with his research on these fascinating little creatures. I used RC a lot, as well as seahorse.org, and another website which escapes me at the moment.

08/08/2006, 10:24 PM	#3
Salty Brother Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 1,119	Thank you, Im regerstering right now, and will also wait for replies here.

08/09/2006, 09:57 AM	#5
Salty Brother Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 1,119	bump

08/09/2006, 10:26 AM	#6
Cellenzweig Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 55	I've never owned seahorses, but this is what I've been able to gather over a few months. Tank - Height is preferrable to length/width. A tall tank is much better than a standard tank, as they don't swim all that much, but do move vertically, especially when mating. The size of the tank and the water temperature vary depending on the seahorse species. Water flow - There should be very little flow through the tank, as seahorses are not strong swimmers. A small powerhead should do the trick. A lot of people seem to avoid sumps and skimmers in seahorse tanks to reduce to possibility of micro bubbles getting trapped in the male's pouch (very serious problem). From what I've seen, a lot of people use HOB filters. Rock - Many people recommend not using live rock in seahorse tanks, as the horses may be injured by hitch-hikers, such as hydroids. From what I've read this is more of a problem with young seahorses. You can use dried (base) rock or DIY rock without any problems. That being said, I've seen quite a few nice tanks that do use LR. Plants/etc... - Seahorses need objects to hitch to. I've seen people use everything from real and fake plants to small tonga branch to string as hitching spots. Gorgonians do a good job and they look natural, however you will probably need photosynthetic species and good light, as the non-photosynthetic species seem to need high flow or they get a waxy buildup and eventually die. Feeding - Only buy seahorses that you have witnessed eating frozen mysis shrimp. It is sometimes difficult to get seahorses onto frozen food. As (I believe) seahorses are now protected by CITIES, they should all be captive bred and eating frozen food. Tankmates - Seahorses should only be kept with other non-aggressive species. It is also important to make sure that the tankmates don't eat all the food before the seahorses get any, as they are pretty slow. The best tankmates would probably be pipefish and pipehorses. Pretty basic, but I hope it helps...

08/09/2006, 10:34 AM	#7
Salty Brother Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 1,119	Thank you, Ive been waiting for someone to give me some answers like that. So from that and other info that ive gathered Im thinking of this... 10gal aga Aqua Clear 20 (basicly for carbon) No Skimmer Small 50gph powerhead 2 tank raised seahorses Floeresnt Light? Is that enough for saltwater plants? Hows that sound? And also, is base rock just normal rock? Like you dont buy it in water? Thanks for the help again!

08/09/2006, 10:36 AM	#8
Salty Brother Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 1,119	Oh ya, if 10gallon is ok, there is a store near by that is going out of business and has 10gal tanks with hoods for $15.

08/09/2006, 10:45 AM	#9
Cellenzweig Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 55	Looks pretty good. I'd personally go with a 10g tall or 15g tall (probably the 15, as the price difference is minimal) if you're going with smaller species, or maybe a 20 tall for larger species. A standard 10 would probably be enough for smaller species, but not sure. Base rock is just dried live rock. There is no life on it. You can usually get it pretty cheap. You can also make DIY rock following the instructions from GARF.org or in many threads here at RC. Normal output flourescent light may be enough for some marine plants. Personally, if I was setting up a seahorse tank without coral, I would probably use the screw in compact flourescents from Home Depot and maybe some actinic for looks.

08/09/2006, 10:51 AM	#10
nickterp Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Virginia Posts: 263	I would go with something like a 20 or 25 tall at least. The difference in price for just buying the aquarium is going to be pretty small. It'll be easier to keep water conditions more stable in a larger tank. This website recommends 10 gallons tanks only for seahorses that will not get above medium size and also mentions that they are too shallow for them to breed: http://www.syngnathid.org/articles/stockingLevels.html Since you got a decent amount of time, I would also pick up a book, or even go to borders, sit down and read one for free for a while .

08/09/2006, 04:51 PM	#11
Salty Brother Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 1,119	Ok thanks, anyone else?

08/16/2006, 12:18 PM	#12
FelipeBastos Registered Member. Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: North Florida Posts: 236	You may want to check this one out: http://www.melevsreef.com/pico.html Not really all that informative, but lots of pictures which always help. Ciao, Felipe

08/16/2006, 12:56 PM	#13
cmsargent Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Washington, DC Posts: 189	I agree with earlier posts that 10g isn't big enough. 15 tall would be the min and 20 would be even better. FYI Tank raised (TR) are not the same as captive breed (CB). TR have wild parents or were captured in the wild and raised in a tank. These seahorses still have alot of the same problems as wild caught in that they've been exposed to all the diseses and parasites that are present in wild populations. TR may be somewhat perferable to WC as they presumable have adjusted to tank life and may or may not be eating frozen. However your best bet is going to be captive bred. There are several good suppliers of captive bred and the price isn't that much more that the wild ones (at least at the prices I've seen in my lfs). Personally I'd rather spend another $20-30 to get a horse that I know will eat frozen for me, doesn't have parasites, and will generally be hardier in a tank environment. Just my $0.02

08/16/2006, 04:20 PM	#14
Salty Brother Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 1,119	oh hey. Ive been doing a lot more reaseach on sh.org. This the the final list, and I already have the tank up and running. 29gal Hot magnum canister filter with carbon. Air stone. floresent light Going to get About 25lbs of rock, like 15lbs base rock, 10lbs LR. 2 cb H. erectus.

08/16/2006, 04:58 PM	#15
FelipeBastos Registered Member. Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: North Florida Posts: 236	Dont forget to get plenty of things for them to hitch onto. gorgonians, bracnhing rock, fake plants, whatever you use. The more, the merrier as it will simulate more the natural habitat of the SH. Ciao, Felipe

08/16/2006, 09:18 PM	#18
MSAreef Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 176	I am in no way affiliated with Oceanrider but I have bought several horses from them. They are expensive, but they are hardy and healthy. But the biggest benefit of buying from them is their yahoo group. Go to oceanrider.com. There are 2 experts on there that give wonderful advice. In fact, you may even be able to join the group without buying. One expert who gives frequent advice is Pet Giwojna. He has written books on seahorses and hopefully, will be publishing a new one soon. He will guide you on seahorse set up requirements. I have a 42 tall seahorse tank that has been up and running for a couple of years. I have 5 seahorses. A good HOB filter will provide good oxygenation with the waterfall effect. You do need adequate water circulation. I have 1 Maxi-jet. I have branching liverock and lots of calerpa. I also have a Bakpak skimmer. There are variations of thought regarding skimmers. Lots of people use fake decorations in an attempt to bring out the colors in the horses. I found that they were just algae magnets so I pulled them.

08/17/2006, 12:27 PM	#19
Salty Brother Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 1,119	I have a canister filter, airstone, and will probaby add like a 50gph powerhead. Im going to but a few pieces of braching rock, but im also going to have a few kinds of calerpa, and chaeto.

08/17/2006, 03:25 PM	#21
Salty Brother Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 1,119	I know, thats why i might not get a powerhead, but ill see. I still have to buy some calpera from this one guy