Union Ball Valves or Slip Ball Valves?

rpeeples · 10/24/2006, 08:45 PM

I just received my custom 240 starphire tank and currently in the process of getting my equipment lined up.

I welcome feedback on whether I should use Union Ball Valves on my plumbing or the basic slip ball valves?

I have my tank drilled for a closed loop system with 8 returns and one drain with the closed loop.

For my overflow I will have (2) 1 1/2 inch drains with (2) 1" returns.

I don't plan on breaking my tank down anytime soon after I build it so would union ball valves make sense?? other than around my two sequence dart pumps which will run my closed loop and returns?

Thanks for your suggestions...

rpjr

rpeeples · 10/24/2006, 08:46 PM

Also, if there are any fellow reefers in the Greensboro, North Carolina area who would like to assist on this build shoot me a PM. Thanks....

dougchambers · 10/24/2006, 08:53 PM

When you are looking at your plumbing system, consider how you will remove and service every aspect of the plumbing. Union ball valves allow you to isolate sections of the plumbing without draining the system. Think to yourself, how will I pull that pump out without getting wet. What happens if I want to move that drain line or add a Tee.

They cost a little more up front, but can save you a TON of trouble down the road. Check Savko online for great pricing and selection.

Here's an example from our 135g in-wall. The final product is a little different, but you can get some ideas. We used 2" single union ball valves at the tank drains and at the inlet to the pump. We can separate any piece from the tank at any time which is very important with drains and returns through the bottom of the tank...

-Doug

rpeeples · 10/24/2006, 09:01 PM

Thanks Doug....

Another question I had was related to my Bulk Heads....I purchased (10) 1" Bulk Heads Scd 80 that are threaded on both ends.....

Given these will serve as my outlets for my closed loop and return I was thinking I should have purchased the slip on the inside of the tank so that I am able to simply add a small piece of 1 " pipe with a 45 on the end.

With the bulk heads I purchased I will need to attach a coupling which will protrude further into the tank than I want....what do you think?

SDguy · 10/24/2006, 09:13 PM

I agree that you should use true unions (which I believe you are calling union ball valves) on the input and output side of each pump in your system. This allows you to remove the pump for cleaning. Also, by using true unions, you have the ability (though a bit more work) to remove the actual ball valves for cleaning. They WILL eventually begin to stick, and require cleaning.

Frankly, I think you should get bulkheads with thread on the flange side and slip on the nut side. This way you can change the outlets however you like by simply screwing/unscrewing. BTW, did you drill the correct sized holes...Schedule 80 can be thicker than schedule 40, both with 1" ID.

dougchambers · 10/24/2006, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rpeeples
Thanks Doug....

Another question I had was related to my Bulk Heads....I purchased (10) 1" Bulk Heads Scd 80 that are threaded on both ends.....

Given these will serve as my outlets for my closed loop and return I was thinking I should have purchased the slip on the inside of the tank so that I am able to simply add a small piece of 1 " pipe with a 45 on the end.

With the bulk heads I purchased I will need to attach a coupling which will protrude further into the tank than I want....what do you think?

Depends on what you plan to thread into the bulk head. I'm assuming they are for returns. If you are tight on space, consider the OmniFlex. They are wonderful and allow you to direct flow in ways you never thought possible.

rpeeples · 10/24/2006, 09:25 PM

Bingo....I think you just solved the issue with the Bulk Heads

Does Savko have these?

Thanks....

dougchambers · 10/24/2006, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rpeeples
Bingo....I think you just solved the issue with the Bulk Heads

Does Savko have these?

Thanks....

Nope... You need to get them from Paul and Cassie at Oceans Motions. They are great people to work with. We just installed two of the 1.5" and they are great!

-Doug

rpeeples · 10/25/2006, 05:18 PM

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/...2Tank_1100.JPG

rpeeples · 10/25/2006, 05:24 PM

SDGuy,

I believe the holes are drilled correctly. I fitted the bulkheads in the holes and they seem to fit correctly. The only thing that worries me about the threaded side of the bulkhead is when I tried screwing a coupler into the BH it doesn't want to screw in very far.....this would pose a potential huge problem huh

I will definitely use the True Unions on the plumbing....

How do you post pictures on the thread itself without having a link like above?

rpeeples · 10/25/2006, 05:27 PM

rpeeples · 10/25/2006, 05:29 PM

Left hand view

4 Holes on the bottom and rear wall are for a closed loop system.

rpeeples · 10/25/2006, 05:35 PM

This picture is attempting to show the clarity in the glass.

In the previous pictures the green hue is from the bottom piece of the tank.

This photo is a portion of the euro bracing.....

rpeeples · 10/25/2006, 05:38 PM

View through the side walls of the tank. The dimensions of the tank are 72 X 30 X 25.

10/24/2006, 08:45 PM	#1
rpeeples Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: NC Posts: 643	Union Ball Valves or Slip Ball Valves? I just received my custom 240 starphire tank and currently in the process of getting my equipment lined up. I welcome feedback on whether I should use Union Ball Valves on my plumbing or the basic slip ball valves? I have my tank drilled for a closed loop system with 8 returns and one drain with the closed loop. For my overflow I will have (2) 1 1/2 inch drains with (2) 1" returns. I don't plan on breaking my tank down anytime soon after I build it so would union ball valves make sense?? other than around my two sequence dart pumps which will run my closed loop and returns? Thanks for your suggestions... rpjr

10/24/2006, 09:13 PM	#5
SDguy Fish heads unite! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: San Diego Posts: 23,384	I agree that you should use true unions (which I believe you are calling union ball valves) on the input and output side of each pump in your system. This allows you to remove the pump for cleaning. Also, by using true unions, you have the ability (though a bit more work) to remove the actual ball valves for cleaning. They WILL eventually begin to stick, and require cleaning. Frankly, I think you should get bulkheads with thread on the flange side and slip on the nut side. This way you can change the outlets however you like by simply screwing/unscrewing. BTW, did you drill the correct sized holes...Schedule 80 can be thicker than schedule 40, both with 1" ID. __________________ Peter SDMAS member Marine tanks since 1989. ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º> ·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·.. ><((((º> Current Tank Info: 240g butterfly and angel FOWLR. 15g QT.

10/24/2006, 08:46 PM	#2
rpeeples Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: NC Posts: 643	Also, if there are any fellow reefers in the Greensboro, North Carolina area who would like to assist on this build shoot me a PM. Thanks....

10/24/2006, 08:53 PM	#3
dougchambers Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Idaho Posts: 2,882	When you are looking at your plumbing system, consider how you will remove and service every aspect of the plumbing. Union ball valves allow you to isolate sections of the plumbing without draining the system. Think to yourself, how will I pull that pump out without getting wet. What happens if I want to move that drain line or add a Tee. They cost a little more up front, but can save you a TON of trouble down the road. Check Savko online for great pricing and selection. Here's an example from our 135g in-wall. The final product is a little different, but you can get some ideas. We used 2" single union ball valves at the tank drains and at the inlet to the pump. We can separate any piece from the tank at any time which is very important with drains and returns through the bottom of the tank... -Doug

10/24/2006, 09:01 PM	#4
rpeeples Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: NC Posts: 643	Thanks Doug.... Another question I had was related to my Bulk Heads....I purchased (10) 1" Bulk Heads Scd 80 that are threaded on both ends..... Given these will serve as my outlets for my closed loop and return I was thinking I should have purchased the slip on the inside of the tank so that I am able to simply add a small piece of 1 " pipe with a 45 on the end. With the bulk heads I purchased I will need to attach a coupling which will protrude further into the tank than I want....what do you think?

10/24/2006, 09:25 PM	#7
rpeeples Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: NC Posts: 643	Bingo....I think you just solved the issue with the Bulk Heads Does Savko have these? Thanks....

10/25/2006, 05:18 PM	#9
rpeeples Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: NC Posts: 643	http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/...2Tank_1100.JPG

10/25/2006, 05:24 PM	#10
rpeeples Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: NC Posts: 643	SDGuy, I believe the holes are drilled correctly. I fitted the bulkheads in the holes and they seem to fit correctly. The only thing that worries me about the threaded side of the bulkhead is when I tried screwing a coupler into the BH it doesn't want to screw in very far.....this would pose a potential huge problem huh I will definitely use the True Unions on the plumbing.... How do you post pictures on the thread itself without having a link like above?

10/25/2006, 05:27 PM	#11
rpeeples Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: NC Posts: 643

10/25/2006, 05:29 PM	#12
rpeeples Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: NC Posts: 643	Left hand view 4 Holes on the bottom and rear wall are for a closed loop system.

10/25/2006, 05:35 PM	#13
rpeeples Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: NC Posts: 643	This picture is attempting to show the clarity in the glass. In the previous pictures the green hue is from the bottom piece of the tank. This photo is a portion of the euro bracing.....

10/25/2006, 05:38 PM	#14
rpeeples Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: NC Posts: 643	View through the side walls of the tank. The dimensions of the tank are 72 X 30 X 25.