Overflow Box Question

gomab14 · 11/03/2006, 11:44 AM

I am planing to add overflow box to my tank, but am kinda fuzzy about the setup. Can someone please explain? From the overflox box itself I know it goes to the sump and everything, but where does the pump for the overflow box tie into the process? Also where are some places online I can order one from? Thanks

msp2673 · 11/03/2006, 11:51 AM

Interior or exterior hang on?

Shagsbeard · 11/03/2006, 11:53 AM

Overflow boxes rely on siphon to bring water over the edge of the tank. Siphon is broken if air accumulates in the hose causing your sump to be pumped into your tank with no drainage, and flood your living room.

Different overflows deal with this problem in different ways. Some restrict flow to the point where water is traveling fast enough so that air accumulation is impossible. The problem with this solution is that if something blocks the flow... you get a flood.

Other overflows have a pump to remove air that builds up in the siphon. Problem with this one... pumps will break. Not CAN break... they will. And when they do... you flood your living room.

Both solutions are viable provided you keep on top of them. I have the pump the air out version (CPR with Aqualifter). As long as I maintain that Aqualifter, I should be ok. Others swear by using U-tubes for siphon and claim they could NEVER fail... they're wrong... they can and will fail if they are not maintained.

Drilling your tank for natural gravity driven overflow is a much much better solution... if you have that option available... take it.

sjm817 · 11/03/2006, 12:11 PM

Not quite...

A U-Tube overflow relies on the velocity through the tube to keep bubbles clear. There is no restriction. This this the most reliable design. A C Channel overflow such as a CPR can not accomplish this since the channel is too wide and flat. To get around the problem, a vacuum pump such as an Aqualifter is used to remove the accumulated air. This design is not reliable.

A clog in an overflow of any type including internal will likely result in a flood.

The most reliable overflow in the industry is a Lifereef. Highly recommended.

Liquid Hobby · 11/03/2006, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Shagsbeard
Drilling your tank for natural gravity driven overflow is a much much better solution... if you have that option available... take it.

I second that!

conchead · 11/03/2006, 12:37 PM

I agree,U-tube is best, seems confusing at first but works great, never had a problem with mine

Steverino · 11/03/2006, 12:39 PM

How do the channel style of overflows work? Is their only advantage the supposed additional amount of water that can flow? It seems more difficult to get the flow started, I don't understand how the pump helps at all.

If you have a standpipe or a bulk head in the overflow box, there should be no fear of a flood. Even if a snail were to go up the pipe, a netting around the standpipe would stop it from overflowing.

Liquid Hobby · 11/03/2006, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by sjm817
The most reliable overflow in the industry is a Lifereef. Highly recommended.

...maybe the most reliable HOB overflow but more reliable than an internal overflow with multiple gravity fed drains?

Any pipe can get clogged. However, with an internal overflow that is the only concern. With an external, HOB overflow you contend with a clogged pipe, clogged U-tube AND loss of siphon.

em805 · 11/03/2006, 01:23 PM

I have to agree with shagsbeard... I never liked having an overflow on my tank--it caused nothing but headaches. during power outages I would have to worry about water spilling and it was very noisy. I have to say though, that I have also heard alot of ppl like using overflow boxes but, I can only speak from my own experience. I would recomend you look into drilling your tank yourself if you have acrylic or having it drilled if you have glass. Acrylic is alot easier to drill if you have never done it before wereas glass (I think) is a little more risky.

sjm817 · 11/03/2006, 01:36 PM

Drilling a tank is not always possible. For a new tank, sure thing. As long as its drillable, no reason not to. To tear down an established tank to drill it is usually not a desirable option. If you need to add an overflow in this situation, get a good one. Again. Lifereef is as good as they come. FWIW, they claim no failures in the 18 years they have been selling them. I've seen posts here of people running 6 - 7 years problem free. I've been running mine for ~ 2 without a single hitch.

em805 · 11/03/2006, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by sjm817
Drilling a tank is not always possible. For a new tank, sure thing. As long as its drillable, no reason not to. To tear down an established tank to drill it is usually not a desirable option. If you need to add an overflow in this situation, get a good one. Again. Lifereef is as good as they come. FWIW, they claim no failures in the 18 years they have been selling them. I've seen posts here of people running 6 - 7 years problem free. I've been running mine for ~ 2 without a single hitch.

Agreed, usually you want to drill the tank when it does not require breaking down your entire system or before you populate it.

Liquid Hobby · 11/03/2006, 04:13 PM

Are we sure this is an existing system? The thread author is letting us all ramble on!

11/03/2006, 11:44 AM	#1
gomab14 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 94	Overflow Box Question I am planing to add overflow box to my tank, but am kinda fuzzy about the setup. Can someone please explain? From the overflox box itself I know it goes to the sump and everything, but where does the pump for the overflow box tie into the process? Also where are some places online I can order one from? Thanks

11/03/2006, 11:51 AM	#2
msp2673 Registered Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: RED SOX NATION Posts: 55	Interior or exterior hang on? __________________ 75g - no sump Current Tank Info: 75g

11/03/2006, 12:11 PM	#4
sjm817 On Yer left! Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Northern VA Posts: 18,777	Not quite... A U-Tube overflow relies on the velocity through the tube to keep bubbles clear. There is no restriction. This this the most reliable design. A C Channel overflow such as a CPR can not accomplish this since the channel is too wide and flat. To get around the problem, a vacuum pump such as an Aqualifter is used to remove the accumulated air. This design is not reliable. A clog in an overflow of any type including internal will likely result in a flood. The most reliable overflow in the industry is a Lifereef. Highly recommended. __________________ - Scott

11/03/2006, 01:23 PM	#9
em805 Premium Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Santa Maria, CA Posts: 311	I have to agree with shagsbeard... I never liked having an overflow on my tank--it caused nothing but headaches. during power outages I would have to worry about water spilling and it was very noisy. I have to say though, that I have also heard alot of ppl like using overflow boxes but, I can only speak from my own experience. I would recomend you look into drilling your tank yourself if you have acrylic or having it drilled if you have glass. Acrylic is alot easier to drill if you have never done it before wereas glass (I think) is a little more risky. __________________ Temp-78-79F pH-8.2 (seachem) SG-35ppm (hydrometer) Calcium-435 (pinpoint) Ammonia-.0 (AP) Nitrite-0 (AP) Nitrate-<5 (AP) PO4-0 I-.04 Silica-<1 Alk-4 meq/L Mg-1440 Current Tank Info: 112G Shallow REEF CUBE Bare Bottom/60g Corner Reef Tank DSB

11/03/2006, 01:36 PM	#10
sjm817 On Yer left! Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Northern VA Posts: 18,777	Drilling a tank is not always possible. For a new tank, sure thing. As long as its drillable, no reason not to. To tear down an established tank to drill it is usually not a desirable option. If you need to add an overflow in this situation, get a good one. Again. Lifereef is as good as they come. FWIW, they claim no failures in the 18 years they have been selling them. I've seen posts here of people running 6 - 7 years problem free. I've been running mine for ~ 2 without a single hitch. __________________ - Scott

11/03/2006, 11:53 AM	#3
Shagsbeard Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Morro Bay, CA Posts: 2,143	Overflow boxes rely on siphon to bring water over the edge of the tank. Siphon is broken if air accumulates in the hose causing your sump to be pumped into your tank with no drainage, and flood your living room. Different overflows deal with this problem in different ways. Some restrict flow to the point where water is traveling fast enough so that air accumulation is impossible. The problem with this solution is that if something blocks the flow... you get a flood. Other overflows have a pump to remove air that builds up in the siphon. Problem with this one... pumps will break. Not CAN break... they will. And when they do... you flood your living room. Both solutions are viable provided you keep on top of them. I have the pump the air out version (CPR with Aqualifter). As long as I maintain that Aqualifter, I should be ok. Others swear by using U-tubes for siphon and claim they could NEVER fail... they're wrong... they can and will fail if they are not maintained. Drilling your tank for natural gravity driven overflow is a much much better solution... if you have that option available... take it.

11/03/2006, 12:37 PM	#6
conchead Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: sebring,fl. Posts: 173	I agree,U-tube is best, seems confusing at first but works great, never had a problem with mine

11/03/2006, 12:39 PM	#7
Steverino Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: western Chicagoland, IL Posts: 1,114	How do the channel style of overflows work? Is their only advantage the supposed additional amount of water that can flow? It seems more difficult to get the flow started, I don't understand how the pump helps at all. If you have a standpipe or a bulk head in the overflow box, there should be no fear of a flood. Even if a snail were to go up the pipe, a netting around the standpipe would stop it from overflowing.

11/03/2006, 04:13 PM	#12
Liquid Hobby Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 810	Are we sure this is an existing system? The thread author is letting us all ramble on! __________________ 120 DT/200 G mixed reef: birthed on Dec 1, 2010 * Neptune Systems controller * 40G Sump + 40G Fuge which gravity feeds into DT * Huge Reef Octopus Skimmer * Calc, GFO and Carbon RXs * 2x250W 20K Radium MH with VHO supplement * 3600 GPH closed loop with OM 4 way * 1700 GPH return