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#1 |
Moved On
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 212
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Help Plz Ick
i have a 125 gl tank and i recently added a fish and i believe it gave my other ick =( and i have 2 tangs that may have come down w. a case of it along w. my morish idol what is the best way to reduce this ick problem p/s i dont think i have a qt tank unless a 10 gl will work.
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#2 |
Moved On
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 212
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ne1?
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Destin ,Fl
Posts: 431
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the 10g will be a bit small for your fish..unless you can get a bigger qt tank, i don't know what to tell you..you can try to give them extremely clean water and vitamins in their food to help boost the immune system, but other than that, so called "reef safe" products are a waste
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 329
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If you added the diseased fish to the main tank you might as well treat the entire tank. There are many "reef safe" treatments available but you'll usually receive mixed reviews as you do for any diagnosis on here. For me, it was the combination of both Kick-Ich (reef safe) and the feeding of garlic. I would soak mysis in garlic oil and feed to my tank as well as feed small pieces of diced garlic. This was my only option as I had no quarantine tank available. Work with what you have. Worst case scenario...set up a temporary tank and put all your corals and other invertabrates in it, but keep your fish in the main tank. Turn the main tank hypo (lower the salinity). This will inhibit both the progression of the parasite as well as the reproduction of the parasite. Eventually it will die allowing you to re-introduce your corals etc.
HTH Nick |
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#5 |
Moved On
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 164
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nemonick:
the kick ich- will that affect the corals, anemones, live rock or inverts in the tank if you just add it straight to the main tank? and where can you find garlic oil? and is there a specific brand?and when you say feeding of garlic, does that mean take small pieces of garlic and put it in the tank so the fish can eat it? |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Rockford, Illinois
Posts: 6,596
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Trying to have the water as clean as possible wont have a affetc on ich. As long as there are fish there for the ich to host and feed off of, it will stay until the fish can fight it off. Keyword IF.
The best thing to do would be to have the main tank fishless for 6 weeks. Have the fish in a QT for that time, do hyposalinity treatment, feed with garlic. The one product I have used twice in the past before I had a QT was a product called Green Ex. it is coral and invert safe, I didnt loose anything. I had snails, crabs, shrimp, softies,LPS, clam and some SPS. It worked great. |
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#7 |
Registered Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Newnan, GA
Posts: 493
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A fresh water dip for 10 mins will kill the parasites that are on the fish... You could do this before going into the QT tank with them, if you set one up, so they don't take it in with them... Just keep an eye on them and keep them moving... If their brathing becomes too erratic, get them back into saltwater... You need to match the temp and PH of their tank water before putting them in... AS far as your tangs, they will get ich very easily, they are ich magnets...Garlic (theoretically) boosts their immune systems, and 50% veggie diet helps them stay more resistant to the ick...
CATIII |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 311
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In my experience kick-ich is useless. The best treatment is to move the fish to a quarantine tank and let the main tank run fallow for about 2 months or so. In the QT you can either do hypo or run copper. I find that copper is the way to go, but make sure that all of your fish can be treated with copper before you use it. I have also treated ich sucessfuly in a QT with a combonation of garlic, vitamines, frequent large water changes, and diatom filtration.
BTW the best QT is one that has a bare bottom, and plastic ornaments that can be steralized easily. |
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#9 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Destin ,Fl
Posts: 431
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Quote:
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 2,913
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The best thing to do is learn a lesson from this and quarantine all of your fish prior to introducing them to your display. I wouldn't mess with the "quick fixes" You need to get a suitable qt, pull your fish out, treat them with hyposalinity and garlic. There is a debate on wheter or not copper has an effect on ich. leave your display empty for 6 to 8 weeks and learn from your mistakes.
Alos ronjeremy is right in saying that FW dips will not kill the ich. Although it may give some relief, the stress of being tossed into straight FW may outweigh the benefits.
__________________
Current Setup: 10 Gallon Skimmerless Zoanthid Tank Lighting: Single 175 Watt Metal Halide (14,000 K Hamilton Lamp) Filtration: 10 gallon sump/refugium and Phosban Reactor Return: Mag Drive 700 Controller: ReefKeeper Lite (Basic Version) Circulation: TBD Age of System: Build is in Progress |
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: El Paso
Posts: 1,206
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I agree with dcombs, I use qt now a mutiple problems with ich. I tried fw dips with mine, tried also some ich killing liquids with no success, IMO the fish get stressed from trying to net them and could lose them from this and the fw dip.
I know others want you to pull the fish out to quarantine them and this is probably the thing to do but I' ve also had success just leaving the fish in the tank and letting nature take it course and they recover from this. Everyone has opinions and proven results doing different things. |
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