Best way to bond internal c2c

[Reef monkeys]

So I'm getting ready to install my c2c on my 75 and I'm wondering how people are getting a good bond on all sides? I can see how the backside would bond well, but what about the sides? Is it better to do the bottom piece first and then the front inside the tank? or put it together outside the tank?

[mcgyvr]

tank and c2c material?

[Reef monkeys]

It's a typical 75 gal 48x18x18 glass and the c2c is glass also, will be useing momentive 108 for sillycone

[Reef monkeys]

Anyone? I have been thru a bunch of threads, they all pretty much pertain to tank builds not installing glass into a tank to get a good bond. Is it not that important to have a good bond for a c2c ? I have to put the baffles in my sump also, is this any less important?

[JRR1285]

I have some of the same questions and I am most likely going to be installing a C2C in a 40 Breeder.

I saw one thread where he assembled the two pieces out of the tank and installed it as one piece. If you're using a good silicone/adhesive like Dow 795 or Momentive 108 from what I've been reading it should be fine. I used standard Aqueon silicone in my sump and it's holding great over a year later.

Here is that post in the thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...7&postcount=17

My build will be getting under way soon and I have a thread in this section about my progress. Will be drilling the tank this week and maybe getting the glass installed.

Here's the link to my build if you're interested: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2363465

[reefer freak]

Yea Ive been thru that thread also and am looking for the same answers , unless I missed it i didnt see anything about how he silly coned the sides of the overflow box. I just am looking for some reassurance that if I use a pressure method by forcing the silicone into the gap it's ok, and will not fail, or if someone has a technique to do it another way they would like to share? my tank is drilled ready to add the overflow and my momentive rtv 100 series showed up about an hour ago, by the way I got this zoro tools for $7 and some change with free shipping which is a little cheaper than grainger.

[JRR1285]

Well, when I installed the baffles in my sump they were about an 1/8" smaller than the width of my sump leaving about a 1/16" on each side to squeeze silicone in to. I ran beads down both sides of the baffle and once it dried they were rock solid. Silicone adheres to glass so as long as you bought an appropriate one for what we're doing it should work fine.

[reefer freak]

Maybe uncleof6 could chime in on this and educate us with his priceless wealth of knowledge as to the proper way this should be executed?

[lakeviewink]

I installed a 48" C2C on my 4'x2'x22" 110g. I have a build thread on another forum, PM me if you need a link. I put the two pieces of glass together with aquarium silicon OUTSIDE the tank. I used some tiles and clamps to hold it in place. Then, using more crafty props installed the weir in the tank.
Most importantly, I waited to put the euro-bracing on last, and yes the measurements need to be about 1/4"-3/8" less than your inside tank dims. A little masking tape makes your seams and joints look much cleaner when you are all finished.

[reefer freak]

Originally Posted by lakeviewink

I installed a 48" C2C on my 4'x2'x22" 110g. I have a build thread on another forum, PM me if you need a link. I put the two pieces of glass together with aquarium silicon OUTSIDE the tank. I used some tiles and clamps to hold it in place. Then, using more crafty props installed the weir in the tank.
Most importantly, I waited to put the euro-bracing on last, and yes the measurements need to be about 1/4"-3/8" less than your inside tank dims. A little masking tape makes your seams and joints look much cleaner when you are all finished.

Are you saying that there should be euro bracing on the c2c?

[lakeviewink]

Originally Posted by reefer freak

Are you saying that there should be euro bracing on the c2c?

No no, I meant IF you have or are puting in euro bracing on the tank then consider doing it after the c2c. The c2c acts as a brace already for the back wall of the tank. No need for another brace on the back.

[reefer freak]

Oh ok thought that I missed something somewhere and needed to put a brace on the c2c. mine is just a plain ol glass tank with plastic frame around it.

[Reef monkeys]

Originally Posted by lakeviewink

I installed a 48" C2C on my 4'x2'x22" 110g. I have a build thread on another forum, PM me if you need a link. I put the two pieces of glass together with aquarium silicon OUTSIDE the tank. I used some tiles and clamps to hold it in place. Then, using more crafty props installed the weir in the tank.
Most importantly, I waited to put the euro-bracing on last, and yes the measurements need to be about 1/4"-3/8" less than your inside tank dims. A little masking tape makes your seams and joints look much cleaner when you are all finished.

So did you get a continuous bead of silicone along the whole L shape and get it in there without smearing the sides?

[mcgyvr]

"I would" build the box outside the tank just like a regular aquarium is made (inner and outer silicone seals). Then lay the tank on its back then attach the box to the tank in the same fashion.. Then go on vacation as it cures..

[lakeviewink]

Originally Posted by Reef monkeys

So did you get a continuous bead of silicone along the whole L shape and get it in there without smearing the sides?

Yes, like I said, lay down some masking tape first at the side hardest to reach. I put a light bead down then carefully, placed the c2c up to/ in the bead. Then use a wet finger to push/draw the bead further between the seam. Then,If needed, I would lay a small bead on the opposite side, after, taping of course. Then, after curing, use a razor and carefully pull the tape while watching to not pull the bead out. I score it with the blade if it is stubborn. I should say, this was with the aquarium laying in its back on a blanket. Gravity is our friend…

[Reef monkeys]

Guess I should have thought this thru a little better before I ordered my glass. I don't have a big enough gap do you think there is any way I can trim it down a little?

[Cory8995]

IF you use glass that is the same width as the tank under different conditions it can put pressure on the outside of the glass creating cracks in the aquarium itself. Always do atleast 1/16th of an inch on both sides to prevent the cracking and allowing the silicone to adhere

[reefer freak]

Wonder how long it would take if you tried to sand it down?

[Reef monkeys]

So anyone have any ideas on how to take 1/4" off these glass pieces. can I use a glass cutter?

[mr9iron]

You would be better to take it to a glass shop and have them grind it off.

[Daimyo68]

First and foremost, your building a full C2C overflow. If you build it outside of the tank, you will never get it into the tank, being that is has a plastic rim and most likely, a center brace.

First, go back to the glass shop and have them take off the extra length so that you have a 1/16-1/8 gap on both ends of the glass pieces.

Now, make a wooden platform out of some old wood. Use it to support the bottom pane of glass at the installed height. (images Below) Make sure that the lower pane is level with the tank. Tape off your area, run your bead of silicone, install the lower pane, smooth out the silicone, remove the tape. Let this setup for 24hrs.

24 hrs later, run your tape for your vertical pane of glass, run a bead of silicone, install glass, smooth silicone, remove tape.

Let this sit for a week for a full cure. You can trim off the excess silicone if you'd like to, I did and never had any issues.

[Reef monkeys]

Great thanks, I ended using the hole saw and taping off the glass and slowly taking what I needed off, worked pretty good