What to do about a Ick fish after in big display?

[Fitz19d]

Good Ol murphy. Broke the QT I'd been doing due to trusting a well regarded LFS which was supposed to have had their fish all QT'd and preventative-ly treated in tanks with meds. (And you can see the new arrivals in tinted from meds tanks)

Bottom line, the Starry blenny from the smaller non QT tanks went into my QT and died on day 3, was pretty skittish from get go and didnt eat after one or two bites initially. Turned kinda yellow ish on the belly? before completely declining.

2 Tuxedo urchins straight into DT, one died within a day, seem like sickly to start.

And now fairly quickly the supposedly "clear" blue throat trigger I put in to color up my male is icked out.

300g display. I don't think I'm in the position right now to tear everything down and certainly would be an adventure trying to keep multiple QT's running for all the fish (buncha wrasses/tusk etc) Much less tank transfer them all simultaneously to guarantee ick free.

Ick fish has shown signs for a week or so, everything else happy/healthy and robust. Today the ick seems to be far more broken out than the random spots that I was hoping was just sand.




Any sound advice for just keeping this thing healthy enough to fight through?
Been trying to feed frozen fairly heavy since she doesn't go for NLS really. Going to try and get some seaweed extreme in with frozen since I imagine that would be some extra vitamins or something?

Was wondering if I should try higher/lower tank temp or salinity. Issue would be I do have anemones/corals/other inverts.

[ThRoewer]

Lowering the temperature to 24°C may be beneficial, raising it does nothing but harm to the fish.

If you are sure that you are dealing with ich you could treat your fish with hyposalinity in a separate tank.

As for trusting on a LFS's quarantine procedure - that an extremely bad idea!

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[snorvich]

Originally Posted by ThRoewer

Lowering the temperature to 24°C may be beneficial, raising it does nothing but harm to the fish.

If you are sure that you are dealing with ich you could treat your fish with hyposalinity in a separate tank.

As for trusting on a LFS's quarantine procedure - that an extremely bad idea!

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Lowering temperature increases dissolved oxygen which is beneficial. No LFS properly quarantines. Trust only yourself for that. Are you certain it is cryptocaryon irritans?

[Fitz19d]

Originally Posted by ThRoewer

Lowering the temperature to 24°C may be beneficial, raising it does nothing but harm to the fish.

If you are sure that you are dealing with ich you could treat your fish with hyposalinity in a separate tank.

As for trusting on a LFS's quarantine procedure - that an extremely bad idea!

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Catching it is very likely not an option. Not to mention if it's in the tank then the whole thing is contaminated.

To boot, I'm more and more kinda thinking it's a male. Pretty young, but was sold as female. Like I said, this was a pretty highly regarded one at one point on local forums.


Looks like marine ick pics, just a ton of little white dots. It lives in some rocks high off the sand so I dont think should be picking that much up at night. Heavy feeding by the end of the day they seem less apparent but not completely gone or as far as I can tell moved. (like stuck bits of sand.)

[ThRoewer]

If it's really ich you could wait and see. If one or two fish are particularly sick remove those and treat them with TTM or Hyposalinity. Either give these back to the store or keep them separated for two months before returning them to the main tank.

I have ich in my main system, but by now most fish in there have acquired enough immunity to be symptom free. Only if there is a stressor some may show a couple of spots, though the symptoms usually go away on their own after a couple of weeks. The key to make this work is to stock your tank lightly with smaller hardy fish that get along well - essentially keep the stress level to a minimum.

My suspicion is that it was in your tank all along and the new fish got it because he was either weakened, stressed or simply had not been in contact with the parasite for a while and therefore no immunity.

The above is not really what's recommended around here, and I would usually not recommend it either, but it can work if you know what you are doing. It's likely better and causes less losses than tearing down the tank and putting all fish at risk in improvised HTs.

The real danger is that it isn't ich, but rather something more malignant.

[reefeqmover]

Can you pull inverts and corals out? And keep in another tank and run hypo on the display 10 weeks?

[ThRoewer]

Originally Posted by reefeqmover

Can you pull inverts and corals out? And keep in another tank and run hypo on the display 10 weeks?

That would put the fish even more at risk by a massive algae and micro life die-off causing ammonia spike.
I would also expect long term issues with the tank later, so DT treatments are always a bad idea.

So when a decision for treatment is made, the treatment should always be in a dedicated hospital tank (or in this case several).

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[Fitz19d]

Originally Posted by ThRoewer

If it's really ich you could wait and see. If one or two fish are particularly sick remove those and treat them with TTM or Hyposalinity. Either give these back to the store or keep them separated for two months before returning them to the main tank.

I have ich in my main system, but by now most fish in there have acquired enough immunity to be symptom free. Only if there is a stressor some may show a couple of spots, though the symptoms usually go away on their own after a couple of weeks. The key to make this work is to stock your tank lightly with smaller hardy fish that get along well - essentially keep the stress level to a minimum.

My suspicion is that it was in your tank all along and the new fish got it because he was either weakened, stressed or simply had not been in contact with the parasite for a while and therefore no immunity.

The above is not really what's recommended around here, and I would usually not recommend it either, but it can work if you know what you are doing. It's likely better and causes less losses than tearing down the tank and putting all fish at risk in improvised HTs.

The real danger is that it isn't ich, but rather something more malignant.

I didn't say it, but I think your top paragraphs is the route I'm forced to take pretty much.