Anyone experenced using 1000 watt metal halides.

[Plato]

I want to know peoples experience with using 1000w metal halides such as what typ of tank, size, how many used, color temprature, mounting height above the tank, and any recomended brands as far as bulbs and ballist.

[derick2724]

there's 1000watts metal halide? damn you must be rich to run that kind of wattage on a single bulb...

[Plato]

No, but I am definatly laughing at you response, My wife is a school teacher and I make less than her. My planed system will be a 72x30x36 336 gall tank. First lighting option was 3x 400 20K XM metal halides and 8 x 36" 96 watt smart power compacts = 1968 watts but the only down side is annual bulb replacment cost. Opton 2 is two 1000 watt 20k metal halides, with the huge benifit of it cost hundres of dollers less to purchase the equipment and only two bulbs to replace. My current system is 72x24x36 with 3 x 400 watt 20k XM and the tank looks great but I want more light at the bottom of the tank, clams don't do so well as in my 120 which is 48x24x24 with 2 x 400 watt 20k XM.

[ksed]

I don't have experience with 1000w bulbs but I do have 400w hqi on a 4x2x2 and working great.Although your recommendation sounds about wright to me being that you are going to have a taller tank. I know some high end reefers in Europe use 1000w on a similar set up as yours.

[EnderG60]

if you dont plan on running supplimental lighting along with the halides, then two 1000watters could be a good option. What are you planning on keeping?

Two issues would getting the right reflector, and avoiding the super hot spot directly uder the bulb.

but why so many PC's, are you planning to run some 10k and some actinic? PC's suck, if your just adding actinics use VHO's, of you want both 10k and actinic do t5's way more light for much less energy and bulb cost.

But biggest question to answer yours is what do you want to keep in there?

[SDguy]

Originally posted by Plato
but I want more light at the bottom of the tank, clams don't do so well as in my 120 which is 48x24x24 with 2 x 400 watt 20k XM.

Hmmm, I'm kind of concerned about this statement. 400 watters (even if they are 20K) on a 24" tall tank and you think your clams aren't doing well due to too little light? I would recommend considering other reasons for this, IMO/E.

[Plato]

If I use the 1000 watt bulbs their will be no additional lights. The tank will be a sps accro tank. The 120 tank with the clams is where they do very well, excellent. The tank is an Oceanic with starphire front. I love the way they look in their but when I move some of them into the larger tank they arn't getting the intensity they are use to. The larger tank is 12" deeper and father off of the sweet spot of the metal halide. Flouresent will suppliment the light in the new tank and intensity is what I am after. PAR values. From what I have read a 1000 watt will give a foot print of 3x3 to 4x4 depending on height above tank, realy great on tanks 48" or 60" deep.

[SDguy]

ooops...missed the "so well *AS* in my 120". My bad for reading RC threads before my coffee

[marsh]

You might also give consideration as to the reflectors you choose. The Lumen Bright reflector does really punch PAR to the bottom esp underneath the center. The mini is good IMO for a 24" tank from front to back. Lumenarc mini will spread the light a bit more.
I don't know if can get the PAR you need at the bottom of a 36" deep tank with 400W 20K bulbs but you might with a lower kelvin rating bulb. Also don't forget the DE must be shielded and this will drop PAR yield.

if you are still interested in 1000W bulbs you might give reefermadness.us a call

[derick2724]

man you guys are some rich mother trucker running crazy load of lights, no wonder we are going on a shortage in California j/k

[grigsy]

I believe the ones on Reefer Madness require the 1000 watt M83 ballast to operate as it says it's an HQI mogul base bulb. That is an expensive ballast. Try the Blueline 1000 watt 10K or 20K bulb or Hamilton Tech 1000 watt 10K or 14K - both which operate of a M47 1000 watt probe start ballast.

[Plato]

Hey SDguy I feel you, I must also have my morning coffee as well. I know the premium reflictors will help with light penitration but to go go that rout will drive the cost up too much. It will be to expensive to buy the seprate componits by them self. I am think of the M47 ballist set up from Hamilton which is exactly the same set up that Champion Lighting sells under Blueline name. Champion I belive gets it from them to resale under their name. Belive me I would love to ues Aqua Medic that has the M83 ballast but one cost more that double the cost of two of the Hamilton Tech pendants and the bulbs are half the price.

Marsh what did you mean "that the DE must be shielded and that will drop par values"

I expect to have the bulbs perpendicular to the tank stagered with about a 24" height above the water. The tank has euro brace so nothing to worry about their. My current tank the 400 watt MH are about 8" above the water and the closest accros are just 5" under the surface with a gorguse deep purple with blue polyps.

[DanInSD]

DE lights without shielding output dangerous amounts of UV. Shielding is necessary on DE bulbs. SE bulbs have built-in shielding in the form of the "outer" layer of the bulb.

Dan

[Warner Marine]

I've used AB's 1000w bulbs... they're nice. Punchy down to about 5' but a little white/yellow. But the 2x 1000's are combined with 8x Radiums so it looks nice.

Jon Warner

[Plato]

Thanks Dan. I am use to them being refered to as either double or single end bulbs. Double end need shelding where as single end are encased with an outer uv protective shield. All of the 1000 watt are single end with outer protective bulb and the Hamilton Tech, Blueline, and Aqua Medic are like this and the pendant has temperd glass under the bulb. WM I like AB bulbs but they arn't offered in 20k just 10k and 14K.

[garygb]

Man, I feel guilty eating up the electricity I do already and 1000 watts could probably run my whole show. Electricity is a major contribution to global warming as coal is a primary source of electricity. I hate to throw a damper (or dimmer) on your plans, but frankly it seems ecologically irresponsible to me.

[jerryz]

garygb - I see by your tag line you have 2 tanks that add up to 90 gallons? If you were running a larger system wouldn't your requirements be commensurately larger? What's the energy consumption of your two tanks combined in any event?

[Plato]

Well if you don't like the idea of two 1000 watt bulbs I know a friend who is in the final phase of finishing a very very large reef tank. I live in CLT, he is in ATL I will be driving down in a few days to check out his system. He has 4 x 1000 watt Hamilton 10k lighting the tank. It depth is 5' yes 60" deep. I am not positive but I think the length is 5 or 6 feet and the with is 3 or 4 feet. The thank has an aqualoqic chiller split unit like a heat pump for you house. Their is an in side coil unit and an outside heatpump I think it is one ton or 24000 btu. It is expensive comparied to what a standard chiller cost around 1000 dollars, the split system must be instaled by a profisonal HVAC person % system cost is any where from 4000 to 7000 dollars but it is super efficent and on a tank that size will pay for its self in about 5-10 years. The tank is made out of 1.5" acrylic it will be a monster but could you imagin standing in front of that aquarium. The system pumps are Reeflow pump, Tunze streams, which are very efficent for the amount of water they move.

garygb what kind of car do you drive and how many miles per gallon do you get. What kind of oil do you use in you car, conventional or synthetic.

[garygb]

Honda Accord, I work about 11/2 miles from home, and synthetic oil to answer your questions.

And if I drove a Hummer and commuted 50 miles per day to work, would that diminish anything I said in my previous post--no. It would make me a hypocrit, but it wouldn't make a bit of difference in terms of the amount of electricity consumed by a 1000 watt MH or the impact that that will have ecologically.

And jerryz, isn't part of being responsible having systems that are of smaller or moderate size? I have t-5's on one system and pc's on the other. I've had 150 watt MH in the past on one of the systems, to answer your question.

[jerryz]

garygb - you could also argue that responsible is about maintaining systems appropriately sized for the animals you are keeping and I sure hope you don't have tangs for example in your 50 gallon tank. Just like your driving example, odds are you have put more carbon into the atmosphere in the last year from your vehicle than I have and I own a Tundra. But I only drive when I have to haul something that won't fit on my bike so that means 6,800 miles on my year old this month truck. How many miles did you drive?

[Plato]

garygb please understand I am not trying to be a fire starter or name caller. I am actuall interested I drive a 96 ford aspire aka egg with wheels that gets 40 mpg and I run Amsoil synthetic to help my carbon foot print. My other vehicle is a 99 chev s-10 I have to use to haul stuff like jerryz, synthetic as well. Unlike you jerryz I live in a rual area and have to commut to work, if I rode my bike to worke I could whoop Lance butt in any bike race. Come on guys its not he said she shaid but how we can each help make this be better not only for fellow hobbist but the planit and us as well. In a 36" deep tank I have to have 2000 watts for proper light, for ecological reasons such as mercury in the light bulbs is it not better to only have to replace two bulbs rather than two metal halids and eight florusent tubes which have to have mercury to make them work. Yes, carbon foot print may be the same but if I have to replace all of the bulbs/tubs on an annual bassis would it not be the lesser of two evels to only have two mh bulbs to reblace. My current tank has been in operation for over 10 years so I expect my new setup will not only be more power efficent due to better pumps and lighting setup but I guess I forget to mention in five years and yes I know I should wate to do a new setup but due to certan certan things, it can't wate until then but in five years the tank will go in my new house which after my wife compleast her masters program the new house will be built alaong with a 100% solar and Turby (wind power) set up that is battery and grid tied. I am a hippy at heart. I like the idea of the power company sending me a credit instead of a bill. Did I mention that my wife is obtaning a masters degree, we have a tight budget so money is not unlimited,I pay the power bill and yes I am spending a lot on high end pumps but if you calculate the power consumpton they pay for them self in under 2 or 4 years depending on setup.

[ycnibrc]

actually if you run the 1000watt on a 220v ballast you will use less electricity.

[garygb]

I appreciate your last post plato. The initial post in your thread just struck me, 1000 watts is a lot of light (and electricity). That's why I posted my response. It is heartening to read that your plan is to solar and wind power.

jerryz, I actually have put less miles on my car in the last year than you have your truck. And no, I don't have any tangs in my 50 gallon aquarium (or otherwise).

[Carnavor180]

ya must be rich to run them

[reefergeorge]

Originally posted by ycnibrc
actually if you run the 1000watt on a 220v ballast you will use less electricity.

How is that possible. It will draw less current, but the wattage is still the same. Unless the 220 ballasts are more efficient or something.
Anyway I like the idea of the two lights instead of eight to replace. Let us know how it turns out.