Solenoid to cut off RODI Intake?

Paradiddle7 · 02/19/2008, 07:59 PM

I recently installed a check valve in my utility sink drain pipe. I replaced a crappy gate valve so that I wouldn't have to constantly open/shut it and pray that there wasn't any backpressure when I was going to open it. I lived through 2 floods of raw sewege into the basement. Yuck!

My problem is that my RODI waste output could still overflow the utility sink if the check valve shuts. I'd like to install some sort of sensor in the sink so that if the sink starts to fill up, it will shut off the intake to my RODI unit.

Any ideas?

sabbath · 02/19/2008, 08:04 PM

This what I use.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...0&pcatid=14690

vette68 · 02/19/2008, 10:29 PM

I have an electrical float switch and a relay on my skimmer. First of all, I have my venturi pump and my supply pump wired through the normally closed contact on a relay. Then the float switch is wired to the coil contact on the relay. So, if the float switch is tripped, it energizes the coil, which opens the normally closed contact, and turns off the pumps, thus stopping my basement from flooding. The same thing could be wired to a solenoid valve attached to your supply line on your R/O system. But unless you want to wire the solenoid to control your RO water, you'd have to get a normally open solenoid, so that when your float switch trips, it'll energize and close the solenoid, and stop the flow of water into the RO unit. The problem with this is that if the electricity went out, the solenoid would always stay open. I guess you could use a normally closed solenoid, and leave it energized all the time, unless the float switch trips it, then it would de-energize the coil and cut off the flow. Then, any time you lose electricity, the solenoid would close. You'd just need a solenoid that's robust enough to handle being energized for years at a time. Anyhow, a float switch is about $10.00, a 10 amp octal relay can be purchased for about $10.00 and a decent industrial solenoid valve would be $50 - $60, maybe much more. So it's not a cheap option, but an effective one.

How's that for rambling on? And since you're in Amherst, you can stop by and see my setup any time....

Paradiddle7 · 02/21/2008, 10:16 AM

I've determined the best solution for my needs.

I've ordered an optical sensor (optical sensore #2) from http://www.reefwerks.com

I've also ordered a 1/4" 2 way, always off, solenoid from STC. The part number is "2P025 1/4" and the link to that is http://www.stcvalve.com/Solenoid%20...ications-2P.htm

Don from www.reefwerks.com has been extremely helpful walking me through all this. He's going to get a wiring diagram to me and then I'll post all the info and instructions and hopefully pictures of the application while I install it.

This should finally eliminate all my headaches and worries this utility sink has caused me.

02/19/2008, 07:59 PM	#1
Paradiddle7 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Amherst Posts: 797	Solenoid to cut off RODI Intake? I recently installed a check valve in my utility sink drain pipe. I replaced a crappy gate valve so that I wouldn't have to constantly open/shut it and pray that there wasn't any backpressure when I was going to open it. I lived through 2 floods of raw sewege into the basement. Yuck! My problem is that my RODI waste output could still overflow the utility sink if the check valve shuts. I'd like to install some sort of sensor in the sink so that if the sink starts to fill up, it will shut off the intake to my RODI unit. Any ideas?

02/19/2008, 08:04 PM	#2
sabbath Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Twin City's Mn. Posts: 1,771	This what I use. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...0&pcatid=14690

02/19/2008, 10:29 PM	#3
vette68 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: North Olmsted, OH Posts: 68	I have an electrical float switch and a relay on my skimmer. First of all, I have my venturi pump and my supply pump wired through the normally closed contact on a relay. Then the float switch is wired to the coil contact on the relay. So, if the float switch is tripped, it energizes the coil, which opens the normally closed contact, and turns off the pumps, thus stopping my basement from flooding. The same thing could be wired to a solenoid valve attached to your supply line on your R/O system. But unless you want to wire the solenoid to control your RO water, you'd have to get a normally open solenoid, so that when your float switch trips, it'll energize and close the solenoid, and stop the flow of water into the RO unit. The problem with this is that if the electricity went out, the solenoid would always stay open. I guess you could use a normally closed solenoid, and leave it energized all the time, unless the float switch trips it, then it would de-energize the coil and cut off the flow. Then, any time you lose electricity, the solenoid would close. You'd just need a solenoid that's robust enough to handle being energized for years at a time. Anyhow, a float switch is about $10.00, a 10 amp octal relay can be purchased for about $10.00 and a decent industrial solenoid valve would be $50 - $60, maybe much more. So it's not a cheap option, but an effective one. How's that for rambling on? And since you're in Amherst, you can stop by and see my setup any time....

02/21/2008, 10:16 AM	#4
Paradiddle7 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Amherst Posts: 797	I've determined the best solution for my needs. I've ordered an optical sensor (optical sensore #2) from http://www.reefwerks.com I've also ordered a 1/4" 2 way, always off, solenoid from STC. The part number is "2P025 1/4" and the link to that is http://www.stcvalve.com/Solenoid%20...ications-2P.htm Don from www.reefwerks.com has been extremely helpful walking me through all this. He's going to get a wiring diagram to me and then I'll post all the info and instructions and hopefully pictures of the application while I install it. This should finally eliminate all my headaches and worries this utility sink has caused me.