The Journey - 300+ Gallon System Build - Picture Heavy

[bpcardona]

The Journey

Almost ten years ago a 55 gallon tank was given to me, as payment for helping someone move. I was an 18 year old high school senior working for minimum wage. Knowing absolutely zero about saltwater tanks (or the freshwater for that matter) I quickly decided I wanted a tank like the one at the doctors office. With that said, I made every possible mistake you could.

1. I cleaned the tank with what ever was under my mothers sink!
2. I mixed the salt with whatever came out of the garden hose.
3. I only had a the hang on filter that came with the tank.
4. I had exactly zero pound of live rock in the tank.
5. Had no clue what a cycle was, or water change.

Their were more but you get the point. Needless to say several “Nemo Fish” died along with an anemone and some damsels.

College came, and the tank went. I didn’t get another tank until I married and my wife wanted a saltwater tank for her classroom. So we jumped on Craigslist and found a small nano with a lion fish and sea urchin, only $60! This all happen about 5 years ago. We set up the tank in her classroom, which has a portable (trailer) classroom. The kids loved it! She planned lesson around it, and was the talk of the school for a couple of days. Perhaps this is a good time to tell you that we live in Florida, where it isn’t unusual for temperature to reach the high 90’s. The sea urchin didn’t survive the first weekend! The Monday my wife found the tank the temperature of the small tank had reached 90+. (No kids were subjected to the crime scene.) We brought the tank home. This is where the true journey began!

I should note that the Lion fish survive a few month after his trip to the boiler, however it wasn’t without damage. The poor guy became a member of the short bus club. He swam around banging into the glass, couldn’t decide to eat or not, and simply looked dumb!

I decided that I wasn’t going to just give up this time. I researched a bit, talked to the guys at the local fish store, and decided to give it a go. We started out cycling the tank, added a couple Clown Fish (perhaps early) and way we went. This was to be a learning curve for us, but worth the challenge. We made some mistakes along the way, but not like before. There were some fish, shrimp, and at least one anemone lost along the way but we were learning. The clown fish survived our torment throughout the inexperience behaviors. The last year of this tank was fairly stable, and we decided to upgrade.

We picked up a 54 gallon corner tank a year ago from a local guy get of of the hobby. It came only with tank and stand. We bought T5 lights, a small 10 gallon “Walmart” tank for the sump, live rock, and began the cycle. We cycled the tank and added fish (perhaps to early). We lost all but the clown! This is the point I joined Reef Central, and stopped listening to the LFS guys! (Thats not to say the are all full of it). We have again had some challenges with this tank, but overall successful. I learned that the design of the corner tank requires the one be a engineer to fit equipment underneath. That also the point I learned the wife does like me putting hole in the wall for pipes. I learned the in order to get even flow in a corner tank requires one not to own a corner tank. I learned the anemone grow to be very large a sting every thing within range. However, we have had good coral growth, good fish health, and plenty of anemone splitting. The clowns finally took the RBT, and even mocked a spawning session. I have learned a ton on the forums of the website, and through meeting other members. I am by no means an expert or even seasoned veteran, but a student of the craft I am!

That bring me to the purpose of this Tread. I am upgrading again. This time from a 54g corner to a 150 gallon display, 55 gallon sump, 40 gallon frag, and 55 gallon quarantine. This make this a 300+ system, and my biggest challenge yet. I have met many of you through this process of purchasing tanks, rock, substrate, pump, ect and I thank you for your help! I plan on keeping this as up to date as possible with as many pictures as possible. I want all the input your time allows.


I will end this now, and quickly post a current status of my project. I look forward to interacting with everyone, and “perhaps” this time I will add my fish at the right time.

Current Tank

[bpcardona]

The first post will describe my purposed layout. I will be running the plumbing through my pantry, out into my garage. There I will have the sump and frag tank. These will be part of the same system. Below is the layout of the house.

This is where I need some opinions. I want the tank to drain via gravity into the sump. The sump will be at ground level in the garage. I want the last chamber of the sump to pump into the frag tank, which will be located above. This frag tank will then pump back into the display. My thought is that as long as the two pump are pumping at the same rate, I won't have a problem. Can anyone see a problem with this?

[fishgate]

Yes - you really need to have only one return pump that pumps into the DT. Just have all the other tanks in series and the last one is where your return pump goes.

[bpcardona]

Originally Posted by fishgate

Yes - you really need to have only one return pump that pumps into the DT. Just have all the other tanks in series and the last one is where your return pump goes.

This would require me to have the sump and the frag tank at ground level. I want the Frag tank above, at an easy working height. So how can I accomplish this without two pumps?

[aguila88psi]

Have a T from main pump going to the frag tank with ball or gate valve and just drain from the frag tank into the return section of your sump

[bpcardona]

Originally Posted by aguila88psi

Have a T from main pump going to the frag tank with ball or gate valve and just drain from the frag tank into the return section of your sump

Well that too easy! I like this simple idea, thanks.

Now what size pump?
Should I go internal or external?

[MikeYQM]

Trying to match two pumps will lead to disaster. As mentioned, I would use a small pump to set up the frag tank on its own loop - pumps up from sump & overflows back in.

[MikeYQM]

A tee & ball valve going to the frag tank would work well also.

[CRJ]

drain from the diplay to the sump, then pump it back to the display.

have your frag tank drain into the same sump, and pump back to the frag tank. This way you can have different water speeds through each. If you have a 300 gallon tank, you dont want that waterflow through a frag tank, they will stay closed. The frag should have its own supply, even if its from the very same sump.

Id also go much bigger on that sump. use the space you have, fill it with LR

[bpcardona]

Originally Posted by MikeYQM

Trying to match two pumps will lead to disaster. As mentioned, I would use a small pump to set up the frag tank on its own loop - pumps up from sump & overflows back in.

This is another great idea! I feel a bit silly not think of these on my own! I think I like this one better. I feel like I would have more control, and would need too sacrifice return flow.

I have a ton of plumbing questions, because I have never done it, so prepare yourselves!

Thanks for the help!

[aguila88psi]

For which pump to get the reef life support systems DC pumps look real pimp, low power draw and controlable flow but are only internal pumps, check them out - http://www.rlss.ca/#!dc-pump/vstc3=dc10000

I don't have one those pumps but I plan on picking up the DC5000 for my 90g tank real soon.

Plumbing is a pain, your taking the correct steps by laying everything out, it'll save you lots of trips to the hardware store that's for sure.

I would also consider increasing the volume of water in your sump area, for me mainly I would much rather replace water from the sump then from the display during a routine water change, plus as mentioned before you can have more rock in the sump then in the display tank so maintenance of sand will become easier.

[1Sik1500]

Your on the right path. Sounds like your around my Age. Glad to see some young people getting more in reef keeping.

[bwhit1406]

I like your design. What are you planning to do about temp swings in garage?

[bpcardona]

Originally Posted by bwhit1406

I like your design. What are you planning to do about temp swings in garage?

I plan on running a chiller and a lot of fans! The garage is also pretty well insulated, so the temp down get to high or low.

Originally Posted by aguila88psi

For which pump to get the reef life support systems DC pumps look real pimp, low power draw and controlable flow but are only internal pumps, check them out - http://www.rlss.ca/#!dc-pump/vstc3=dc10000

I don't have one those pumps but I plan on picking up the DC5000 for my 90g tank real soon.

Plumbing is a pain, your taking the correct steps by laying everything out, it'll save you lots of trips to the hardware store that's for sure.

I would also consider increasing the volume of water in your sump area, for me mainly I would much rather replace water from the sump then from the display during a routine water change, plus as mentioned before you can have more rock in the sump then in the display tank so maintenance of sand will become easier.

Thanks for the suggestion on pumps. It is nice that Salty Supply carries these. In regards to the bigger sump and water exchange, I have a few ideas I will purpose.

Originally Posted by 1Sik1500

Your on the right path. Sounds like your around my Age. Glad to see some young people getting more in reef keeping.

Thanks I am 28 years old, and looking to learn for the "old-timers"

[bpcardona]

Upon the suggestion of others, this is the updated layout. I tank will drain into the sump. Then it will be pumped back to the display. Also another pump will go from the sump to the frag, then back into the sump.

I am planning on using 1' bulkhead on the frag tank. Does everyone agree that this is an appropriate size?

Forgive the crudeness of the picture, just a quick sketch to give me an idea.

[bpcardona]

So I plan on building the structural portion of the stand this weekend. The plan is shown below. The bright green post are 4x4 post notched out for the Red 2x4. The light blue are 2x4s place together. The bottom section has changed a bit. I plan on using 1x2 runner, instead of the Red 2x4. This will give me more height underneath. Most of the wood is pressure treated lumber. I plan on using coated decking screw and water sealing.

So here is my question:

The red runner on top is planned to be a 2x4. Should this be a 2x6? The tank is an 150 acrylic tank.

[sirreal63]

Don't use treated wood, there is no need in it, unless it is KDAT it will warp, shrink and ruin your nice design. The same goes for 4x4's, they shrink, warp, crack and check, this will also ruin your design. If you can get SPF use it, it is light and strong and will exhibit minimal shrinkage. In place of the 4x4's use laminated 2x4's. Framing lumber in general is not the best choice for a stand, but if you use it then use the right species. Southern Pine is a horrible choice, though it is highly strong, it is also not as dimensionally stable as SPF.

[bpcardona]

Originally Posted by sirreal63

Don't use treated wood, there is no need in it, unless it is KDAT it will warp, shrink and ruin your nice design. The same goes for 4x4's, they shrink, warp, crack and check, this will also ruin your design. If you can get SPF use it, it is light and strong and will exhibit minimal shrinkage. In place of the 4x4's use laminated 2x4's. Framing lumber in general is not the best choice for a stand, but if you use it then use the right species. Southern Pine is a horrible choice, though it is highly strong, it is also not as dimensionally stable as SPF.

Okay.... Well I planned on just going to Home Depot...... The 4x4 will be easy to change. I did it this way thinking it would be more stable. Thanks for the advice.

As far as the SPF lumber, do you happen to know if HD, Lowes, or Ace carry that. If not I guess I will need to find a local lumber dealer. If I any get this grade easily, could I build it out of framing lumber, or would you strongly discourage this?

[sirreal63]

It varies by region and what deals the buying office has made, which is also regional. You can always ask, but don't expect them to know the difference at the box stores, they will just call it white wood, which could be spf or a large variety of wood species. Look at the stamp on the wood, it will tell you the specie classification. Find a real lumberyard that caters to contractors, they will usually have a better idea of what they stock. If you cannot find spf, then the generic white woods classification will work. Dense or heavy woods typically retain moisture longer and will take longer to reach equilibrium with the atmosphere they are in. This is one reason why YP is not a good choice, dried at 19% it will take longer to reach equilibrium, and while it is doing so it will have a tendency to warp, softer woods are less dense and reach EMC sooner and are usually more dimensionally stable. (less movement of the wood)

[Fishystuff22]

Looks like a good solid build so far!

[ridetheducati]

Originally Posted by bpcardona

Okay.... Well I planned on just going to Home Depot...... The 4x4 will be easy to change. I did it this way thinking it would be more stable. Thanks for the advice.

As far as the SPF lumber, do you happen to know if HD, Lowes, or Ace carry that. If not I guess I will need to find a local lumber dealer. If I any get this grade easily, could I build it out of framing lumber, or would you strongly discourage this?

If HD or Lowes are your only choices, go to Lowes and spend an hour cherry picking the 2x4s.

[bpcardona]

Originally Posted by ridetheducati

If HD or Lowes are your only choices, go to Lowes and spend an hour cherry picking the 2x4s.

Originally Posted by sirreal63

It varies by region and what deals the buying office has made, which is also regional. You can always ask, but don't expect them to know the difference at the box stores, they will just call it white wood, which could be spf or a large variety of wood species. Look at the stamp on the wood, it will tell you the species classification. Find a real lumberyard that caters to contractors, they will usually have a better idea of what they stock. If you cannot find spf, then the generic white woods classification will work. Dense or heavy woods typically retain moisture longer and will take longer to reach equilibrium with the atmosphere they are in. This is one reason why YP is not a good choice, dried at 19% it will take longer to reach equilibrium, and while it is doing so it will have a tendency to warp, softer woods are less dense and reach EMC sooner and are usually more dimensionally stable. (less movement of the wood)

What great information. This is why I like to do thing myself, I learn so much. I thought a 2x4 was a 2x4. Thanks so much for the lesson.I was able to find SPF wood at Lowes, so I did pick through them to find the straightest ones. Thanks everyone.

Originally Posted by Fishystuff22

Looks like a good solid build so far!

Thanks for joining along, please comment whenever you can.

Also the plans have changes some. Be that the sump will be running to the garage, there will no need for a cabinet style stand. So my wife had a great idea of making it into a sort of bookcase style. So here is the modified plans. As you can see I have added another layer of support. This is because I plan on having a false back, with thin sliding wood. The shelves will be removable of course. The only items in the back will be the pipes and electrical items.

[sirreal63]

That's CanFor out of Isle Pierre, not one of their better mills but if you picked through and got good pieces it will do what you want. The only issues I ever had from that mill were excessive wane, still within grade so no worries there.

[bwhit1406]

Have you thought about having access at one or both of the ends to get to your electrical. The bookshelf idea is really cool but it would get old taking it about to to get in there.

[bwhit1406]

On second thought per your drawing looks like the stand will be blocked on the ends