RODI Filter help

[SeeCrabRun]

I've had my RODI for 2 years now and I haven't replaced the filters. I have a TDS meter running after the membrane and after the final stage. It has crept up to 1 after the final stage now, but I also know the filters have an age limit that is probably long passed?

I bought my entire system from Buckeye Hydro, just went with an already made package.

I only filter about 60 gallons A MONTH, and keep a 20 gallon reservoir. I know our water doesn't have fluoride, but I'm unsure about anything else, or how to check it. I know the TDS of incoming water is usually only 40, which I believe is low for the average household?

I had to have a restrictor valve put on the house water in the spring and now my PSI running through the membrane is 50-60, it used to be 70-90.

I'd really love some help picking out replacement parts and any other accessories necessary. I'm not sure what the age limit is for the different filters or how to know exactly when they should be changed. I considered getting one of those color changing DI cartridges to take some of the guess work out.

Thanks for any help!

[xREEFINaintEZx]

Ok we'll start with Changing the sediment and carbon filters... Do you have a pressure gauge on the set up

[SeeCrabRun]

Yes, that's how I know the PSI in the membrane.

[xREEFINaintEZx]

Is it installed after the carbon block?

[SeeCrabRun]

It's in the actual membrane case. It was part of the setup they sell, all ready to use, kind of plug and play.

This is the one I bought http://www.buckeyehydro.com/premium-rodi-system/ 75 gpd added TDS meter and ASOV kit.

[SeeCrabRun]

double post

[xREEFINaintEZx]

I took my pressure gauge and hooked it straight to the house.... Now I know that my psi is 61. I then took the guage and reinstalled it after my carbon. Now if that guage drops below 61 I know a filter is getting clogged, Id first change the cheap sediment filter. If it's still below house pressure I'll change carbon.

[xREEFINaintEZx]

I kno those r nice. Leme read about what pressure that guage is checking

[SeeCrabRun]

Oh it's about the same as the house pressure.

What I meant that happened was I used to have crazy good pressure and I know that works the filter harder, but that's a good thing for water output. Then we had to add a restictor to the house because our pipes were starting to fail and now the house has 60psi. The RODI has 50-60 depending if anything else is running or sometimes the temperature seems to cause it to fluctuate some.

[xREEFINaintEZx]

From my experience, if your not getting a solid 60 psi your not going to get as good results. But we can and need to do a few other things aswell. I'd first get new sediment and carbon. Well go over microns in a little. After installing new sediment and carbon take note of the psi... This is your standard pressure if it goes below that psi in the next 6-9 months (maybe more) it's time to change even with that incredible 40 TDs water your getting . Sediment takes out debris. Carbon is for chlorine. Chlorine kills membranes. Do you know about microns?

[xREEFINaintEZx]

After new prefilters, we would then calculate your membrane TDs rejection. Once we've see your % we'll know if u need a new membrane. You want around 98 99% rejection if not you will exhaust your Di resin faster then you want.

[nereefpat]

With that low of TDS in the feed water, I'm not surprised your filters have lasted this long.

In general, RO membranes only need replacing after the production of permeate slows way down.

If there is more than zero TDS in the permeate, then the DI needs replaced. I would just replace the sediment and carbon filters at the same time, since they are cheap and you will be getting out your wrenches anyway.

[SeeCrabRun]

So just the 3 filters, not the RO membrane yet?

[nereefpat]

I would change everything except the RO membrane.

[xREEFINaintEZx]

You need new sediment and carbon filters first.Then we test the membrane. If your membrane isn't working correct you'll need a new one or your Di resin will exhaust faster then you want. Can you test the TDs of the water coming out of the membrane?

[SeeCrabRun]

Yes I have a dual in line meter. I have it hooked on the output for the membrane and then the output for the DI. The output on the membrane is usually 7. It used to be 0 when I first got the system, so then the DI didn't really have anything to do I guess.

[fishchef]

At some point down the road I was told that when my membrane TDS was 10 percent of my tap water it was time. It could take 2-3 years to get to that point. Changing out the sediment and carbon about every 6 months will help prolong your membrane. If you have chlorimines you'll need a specific carbon block.

[xREEFINaintEZx]

I use this. https://www.premierh2o.com/pages/tds-calculator

[xREEFINaintEZx]

Do you have the exact TDs of the house? 40?

[xREEFINaintEZx]

Your at 82% you wanna be at 97/98. Maybe 92%. But 82 is way to low I think

[fishchef]

Originally Posted by SeeCrabRun

Yes I have a dual in line meter. I have it hooked on the output for the membrane and then the output for the DI. The output on the membrane is usually 7. It used to be 0 when I first got the system, so then the DI didn't really have anything to do I guess.

There's many soluble components that don't read on a TDS meter such as chlorine.

[xREEFINaintEZx]

I sent you some links in a pm. As far as do resin goes you can buy them ready to go or you might be interested in thishttps://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...nrqE8sSXeUlDBQ

[Buckeye Hydro]

Here's some infor from our FAQ's that might be helpful:

A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or more of the prefilters (all the filters that touch the water before it reaches the RO membrane) is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example will remove much of the chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons. Remember that all the water you process, both waste water and purified water, goes through the carbon block.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your total dissolved solids (TDS) meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million [ppm]) in three places: 1) tap water, 2) after the RO but before the DI, and 3) after the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 ppm. Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO membrane housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 96% (i.e., they reject 96% of the dissolved solids in the feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 16 ppm (a 96% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce purified water (a.k.a. “permeate”) more slowly, but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 99%). The lifespan of an RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run through it, and how “dirty” the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the TDS in the water coming into the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce purified water more slowly as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the TDS in the RO water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm, your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes you'll hear people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin high TDS water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal.

Additionally, don’t forget to sanitize the entire system at least once per year, and wash and lube your housing o-rings with food-grade silicone grease every filter change.

Russ

[firemountain]

Originally Posted by Buckeye Hydro

Here's some infor from our FAQ's that might be helpful:

Additionally, don’t forget to sanitize the entire system at least once per year, and wash and lube your housing o-rings with food-grade silicone grease every filter change.

Russ

Russ,

Can you recommend a blow by blow procedure to sterilize the entire RO unit. I have read some stuff online and the procedures all vary, esp when pressurized storage tanks are utilized with guys who use their RO system to serve as their drinking water. Some use bleach, some use Peroxide, some use a pre packaged solution, etc, etc.

I am sure many will benefits from your advice on this.

[Buckeye Hydro]

Sure - easiest thing to do would be to download the instructions from our website. There is a link to all our instructions in the aqua colored horizontal bar on our home page. www.buckeyehydro.com

Russ