RODI + Polyfilter questions

gig · 04/06/2006, 08:24 AM

I recently bought a brand new Seachem Pinnacle RO/DI (3 stage unit), unfortunately without doing enough research before I bought. It's nice because it has a 4 way auto shutoff and the pressure gauge...however, not sure if it's the best for my needs.

I currently have well water and I can't find any literature that says this is unit is for a municipal chlorinated water only, or if it's good for well water as well. The other issue is my PSI is low, I just get 40 psi, which is right at the bottom of the operating range...it sometimes falls below that.

Is there a better alternative for those with well water? I see that Coralife makes one with a built in pump, are those any good?

Finally, I moved my fish (3) to their temporary housing (a 45 gal) last weekend, mixed up about half new water from the RODI unit and used the other half old water. The tank is a FOWLR setup and will eventually move to my new 180g setup. I noticed that my majestic (who eats like a horse and I have had for 3+ years as well as my powder blue 2+ years) were being finicky. I offered some nori (which for the first day went uneaten) and decided to pop in a "poly filter" in the bak pack skimmer. I noticed that the next day the poly filter turned a light orange/red hue and my fish were eating back to normal.

My question is:

1) I'm wondering if I did not flush out enough of my new RODI and released those cleaning agents from the membrane into the tank

2) Or, is that orange/red inicate "iron" in the water, which the RODI should pretty much pull out.

Thanks in advance..

gig · 04/06/2006, 11:50 AM

*bump* anyone?

hopper · 04/06/2006, 12:02 PM

Well water or city water should not matter to your RO/DI unit. The one you purchased should do the job with no problem. You may however need to purchase a booster pump if your water pressure is that low. This can be purchased separately and placed in-line. Just make sure that you are using a spun floss sediment filter followed by a charcoal filter of some type. The floss sediment filter will get rid of your particulate matter and the carbon filter will get rid of the chlorine and other such harmful chemicals. It is essential to have a charcoal filter to rid the water of chlorine and other impurities to help extend the life of your membrane. Chlorine is the membranes worst enemy. Get yourself a TDS meter and this will determine if your water is coming out clean. 0 TDS. These are cheap and can be found through several of the sponsors on RC.

Don't know if I understood right, but you should discard the first five gallons of water that your RO/DI produces. If you didn't do this, I would do at least a 25% water change as soon as possible.

My floss filter turns a red/orange color after a while and this is normal. If yours changed color this quickly, you may have a lot more impurities in your water than is normal, being that you are on a well.

gig · 04/06/2006, 12:20 PM

thanks hopper, I did discard the first few gallons of water, per the instructions (did I do enough?)....

Like I said, it's well water, so no Chlorine to worry about...the place where I bought my RODI will take it back no problems, I am thinking the typhoon III would ahve been a better choice, it isn't much more money than the one I bought and it comes with the same stuff (shutoff valve, psi meter and even a TDS meter)...it also seems to have a membrane more suitable for low PSI applications. thanks....

hopper · 04/06/2006, 12:25 PM

I've heard good things about the Typhoon III. If it includes the above mentioned accessories, I would go for it. Try and get a DOW Filmtec membrane though if possible. These are the best and I would get something in the 60-75 gpd as they have 99% rejection rate where as the 100 gpd have 90% rejection rate.

gig · 04/06/2006, 12:49 PM

thanks, I've read the 75gpd is better than the 100gpd model and they cost the same...comes with:

"Real FilmTec (TFC) membranes not just DOW material but the actual Dow Product. Dow owns FilmTec"

04/06/2006, 08:24 AM	#1
gig Registered Member. Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Hawthorn Woods, IL Posts: 3,003	RODI + Polyfilter questions I recently bought a brand new Seachem Pinnacle RO/DI (3 stage unit), unfortunately without doing enough research before I bought. It's nice because it has a 4 way auto shutoff and the pressure gauge...however, not sure if it's the best for my needs. I currently have well water and I can't find any literature that says this is unit is for a municipal chlorinated water only, or if it's good for well water as well. The other issue is my PSI is low, I just get 40 psi, which is right at the bottom of the operating range...it sometimes falls below that. Is there a better alternative for those with well water? I see that Coralife makes one with a built in pump, are those any good? Finally, I moved my fish (3) to their temporary housing (a 45 gal) last weekend, mixed up about half new water from the RODI unit and used the other half old water. The tank is a FOWLR setup and will eventually move to my new 180g setup. I noticed that my majestic (who eats like a horse and I have had for 3+ years as well as my powder blue 2+ years) were being finicky. I offered some nori (which for the first day went uneaten) and decided to pop in a "poly filter" in the bak pack skimmer. I noticed that the next day the poly filter turned a light orange/red hue and my fish were eating back to normal. My question is: 1) I'm wondering if I did not flush out enough of my new RODI and released those cleaning agents from the membrane into the tank 2) Or, is that orange/red inicate "iron" in the water, which the RODI should pretty much pull out. Thanks in advance.. __________________ It's ILLIE!!!!!!!!!!! Current Tank Info: Current Tank Info: 180G RR in wall mixed reef moving toward SPS dominated (247 gal total system), 300lbs+ LR, VHO/T5 mix of lighting, X3 MP40w ES.

04/06/2006, 11:50 AM	#2
gig Registered Member. Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Hawthorn Woods, IL Posts: 3,003	bump anyone? __________________ It's ILLIE!!!!!!!!!!! Current Tank Info: Current Tank Info: 180G RR in wall mixed reef moving toward SPS dominated (247 gal total system), 300lbs+ LR, VHO/T5 mix of lighting, X3 MP40w ES.

04/06/2006, 12:20 PM	#4
gig Registered Member. Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Hawthorn Woods, IL Posts: 3,003	thanks hopper, I did discard the first few gallons of water, per the instructions (did I do enough?).... Like I said, it's well water, so no Chlorine to worry about...the place where I bought my RODI will take it back no problems, I am thinking the typhoon III would ahve been a better choice, it isn't much more money than the one I bought and it comes with the same stuff (shutoff valve, psi meter and even a TDS meter)...it also seems to have a membrane more suitable for low PSI applications. thanks.... __________________ It's ILLIE!!!!!!!!!!! Current Tank Info: Current Tank Info: 180G RR in wall mixed reef moving toward SPS dominated (247 gal total system), 300lbs+ LR, VHO/T5 mix of lighting, X3 MP40w ES.

04/06/2006, 12:49 PM	#6
gig Registered Member. Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Hawthorn Woods, IL Posts: 3,003	thanks, I've read the 75gpd is better than the 100gpd model and they cost the same...comes with: "Real FilmTec (TFC) membranes not just DOW material but the actual Dow Product. Dow owns FilmTec" __________________ It's ILLIE!!!!!!!!!!! Current Tank Info: Current Tank Info: 180G RR in wall mixed reef moving toward SPS dominated (247 gal total system), 300lbs+ LR, VHO/T5 mix of lighting, X3 MP40w ES.

04/06/2006, 12:02 PM	#3
hopper Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Bossier City, La. Posts: 623	Well water or city water should not matter to your RO/DI unit. The one you purchased should do the job with no problem. You may however need to purchase a booster pump if your water pressure is that low. This can be purchased separately and placed in-line. Just make sure that you are using a spun floss sediment filter followed by a charcoal filter of some type. The floss sediment filter will get rid of your particulate matter and the carbon filter will get rid of the chlorine and other such harmful chemicals. It is essential to have a charcoal filter to rid the water of chlorine and other impurities to help extend the life of your membrane. Chlorine is the membranes worst enemy. Get yourself a TDS meter and this will determine if your water is coming out clean. 0 TDS. These are cheap and can be found through several of the sponsors on RC. Don't know if I understood right, but you should discard the first five gallons of water that your RO/DI produces. If you didn't do this, I would do at least a 25% water change as soon as possible. My floss filter turns a red/orange color after a while and this is normal. If yours changed color this quickly, you may have a lot more impurities in your water than is normal, being that you are on a well.

04/06/2006, 12:25 PM	#5
hopper Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Bossier City, La. Posts: 623	I've heard good things about the Typhoon III. If it includes the above mentioned accessories, I would go for it. Try and get a DOW Filmtec membrane though if possible. These are the best and I would get something in the 60-75 gpd as they have 99% rejection rate where as the 100 gpd have 90% rejection rate.