skimmer mod- i need help

Fishbulb2 · 12/17/2006, 10:19 AM

Hey guys,
I'm looking to do a recirculating skimmer mod on a Euroreef 100RS and really could use some help. I need to get a Uni-seal and a hole saw. I measured the diameter at the distal part of the volute and it seems to be between 1 3/8" and 1 7/16" of an inch. Will a 1 1/2" uniseal be too large and not snug? I really doubt I could squeeze it into the 1 1/4" in seal. Thanks for input on this.

Next, is there a recommended typs of hole saw to use (teeth or centering bit)? I'm rather clueless here and don't want to mess this up. Is there a type I should avoid?

Last, what is the best way to attach a line for the new incoming feed water? I could either drill a hole, tap it, and screw in an elbow with flexitube connector. Or I could use another uniseal and 1/2 in pvc to flex tube connector. The advantage here is I could put in a union inline for quick disconnects.

thanks for the input guys. It will relieve some stress and prevent from having to reorder if I make a mistake.
FB

BrokeColoReefer · 12/17/2006, 10:27 AM

Definalty use a centering bit, and get a hole saw like the lennox type that drill metal. Take your time and you will be fine, acrylic drills pretty easy.

I would tap it and put a threaded union on it, im not a huge fan of uniseals. MAKE SURE you use a plexi bit or hole saw to drill that hole. Regular bits of that size do not work well.

Try posting this in the DIY side for the uniseal and bit size, i think that you seal is to large for a 1 1/4" seal. If i remember correctly, the last time i installed uniseals i cut the hole the same size as the seal.

kentrob11 · 12/17/2006, 10:34 AM

Drilling and tapping a 1/8" wall acrylic tube is not going to give you anywhere near as safe a connection as a uniseal would. I've got a decent amount of experience doing both and if installed properly a uniseal not only gives you a good seal, but a forgiving and durable one as well....If you have 1/4" wall acrylic tube, tapping becomes a more viable option.

BrokeColoReefer · 12/17/2006, 10:36 AM

this is good advice ^^, i didnt know we were talking 1/8 " wall, my skimmer wall is 1/4.

kentrob11 · 12/17/2006, 10:47 AM

I just figured it was 1/8" since every ER I've seen was made with it....1/4" wall is nice, huh? Sooooo easy to drill/tap/whetever....I made my skimmer with 1/4"....

BrokeColoReefer · 12/17/2006, 10:57 AM

i use 1/4" on everything i build, not because i need the strength, i like the workability of the material.

kentrob11 · 12/17/2006, 11:01 AM

Yeah- it aint cheap though...My skimmer has a 12' body- almost twice the cost of 1/8"...

Fishbulb2 · 12/17/2006, 11:13 AM

Huh, interesting. Thanks a lot for the tips guys. I would have assumed it was 1/4" but maybe it's not. I will go slow and go with a uni-seal for the input feed as well.

Kentrob, would you go with the 1 1/2" uniseal even though it seems a hair too large. Will it fill in the gap.

Thanks,
FB

kentrob11 · 12/17/2006, 11:16 AM

You need to go with the uniseal that is the same size as the oulet plumbing of your pump. There shouldn't be any guess work there. I imagine it's 3/4" but I couldn't be sure.....

Fishbulb2 · 12/17/2006, 11:45 AM

Hmmm, dang. I measured it and it's only 1 3/8". maybe 1 7/16". Since they don't make uniseals this size, should I just not do the mod?

12/17/2006, 10:19 AM	#1
Fishbulb2 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Bethesda, MD Posts: 1,807	skimmer mod- i need help Hey guys, I'm looking to do a recirculating skimmer mod on a Euroreef 100RS and really could use some help. I need to get a Uni-seal and a hole saw. I measured the diameter at the distal part of the volute and it seems to be between 1 3/8" and 1 7/16" of an inch. Will a 1 1/2" uniseal be too large and not snug? I really doubt I could squeeze it into the 1 1/4" in seal. Thanks for input on this. Next, is there a recommended typs of hole saw to use (teeth or centering bit)? I'm rather clueless here and don't want to mess this up. Is there a type I should avoid? Last, what is the best way to attach a line for the new incoming feed water? I could either drill a hole, tap it, and screw in an elbow with flexitube connector. Or I could use another uniseal and 1/2 in pvc to flex tube connector. The advantage here is I could put in a union inline for quick disconnects. thanks for the input guys. It will relieve some stress and prevent from having to reorder if I make a mistake. FB __________________ Just getting back in, but trying to do it right! Current Tank Info: 40 gallon tank. SPS, LPS, few softies

12/17/2006, 10:27 AM	#2
BrokeColoReefer Hermit Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Mountains of Boulder County. Posts: 2,289	Definalty use a centering bit, and get a hole saw like the lennox type that drill metal. Take your time and you will be fine, acrylic drills pretty easy. I would tap it and put a threaded union on it, im not a huge fan of uniseals. MAKE SURE you use a plexi bit or hole saw to drill that hole. Regular bits of that size do not work well. Try posting this in the DIY side for the uniseal and bit size, i think that you seal is to large for a 1 1/4" seal. If i remember correctly, the last time i installed uniseals i cut the hole the same size as the seal. __________________ Stay fishy my friends. Current Tank Info: 300 gallon built in plumbed to the basement. 30 gallon surge for flow, GEO protein skimmer, litermeter 3's for continuous water change (1 gallon per day), calc reactors, kalk reactors, 600w MHx2, 6" DSB, 1000 lbs of live rock (300 display, 700 sump)

12/17/2006, 10:36 AM	#4
BrokeColoReefer Hermit Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Mountains of Boulder County. Posts: 2,289	this is good advice ^^, i didnt know we were talking 1/8 " wall, my skimmer wall is 1/4. __________________ Stay fishy my friends. Current Tank Info: 300 gallon built in plumbed to the basement. 30 gallon surge for flow, GEO protein skimmer, litermeter 3's for continuous water change (1 gallon per day), calc reactors, kalk reactors, 600w MHx2, 6" DSB, 1000 lbs of live rock (300 display, 700 sump)

12/17/2006, 10:57 AM	#6
BrokeColoReefer Hermit Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Mountains of Boulder County. Posts: 2,289	i use 1/4" on everything i build, not because i need the strength, i like the workability of the material. __________________ Stay fishy my friends. Current Tank Info: 300 gallon built in plumbed to the basement. 30 gallon surge for flow, GEO protein skimmer, litermeter 3's for continuous water change (1 gallon per day), calc reactors, kalk reactors, 600w MHx2, 6" DSB, 1000 lbs of live rock (300 display, 700 sump)

12/17/2006, 11:13 AM	#8
Fishbulb2 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Bethesda, MD Posts: 1,807	Huh, interesting. Thanks a lot for the tips guys. I would have assumed it was 1/4" but maybe it's not. I will go slow and go with a uni-seal for the input feed as well. Kentrob, would you go with the 1 1/2" uniseal even though it seems a hair too large. Will it fill in the gap. Thanks, FB __________________ Just getting back in, but trying to do it right! Current Tank Info: 40 gallon tank. SPS, LPS, few softies

12/17/2006, 10:34 AM	#3
kentrob11 Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: O'Fallon, IL Posts: 4,520	Drilling and tapping a 1/8" wall acrylic tube is not going to give you anywhere near as safe a connection as a uniseal would. I've got a decent amount of experience doing both and if installed properly a uniseal not only gives you a good seal, but a forgiving and durable one as well....If you have 1/4" wall acrylic tube, tapping becomes a more viable option.

12/17/2006, 10:47 AM	#5
kentrob11 Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: O'Fallon, IL Posts: 4,520	I just figured it was 1/8" since every ER I've seen was made with it....1/4" wall is nice, huh? Sooooo easy to drill/tap/whetever....I made my skimmer with 1/4"....

12/17/2006, 11:01 AM	#7
kentrob11 Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: O'Fallon, IL Posts: 4,520	Yeah- it aint cheap though...My skimmer has a 12' body- almost twice the cost of 1/8"...

12/17/2006, 11:16 AM	#9
kentrob11 Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: O'Fallon, IL Posts: 4,520	You need to go with the uniseal that is the same size as the oulet plumbing of your pump. There shouldn't be any guess work there. I imagine it's 3/4" but I couldn't be sure.....

12/17/2006, 11:45 AM	#10
Fishbulb2 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Bethesda, MD Posts: 1,807	Hmmm, dang. I measured it and it's only 1 3/8". maybe 1 7/16". Since they don't make uniseals this size, should I just not do the mod? __________________ Just getting back in, but trying to do it right! Current Tank Info: 40 gallon tank. SPS, LPS, few softies