Chinese LED Lights

[paulhoff]

ok,So i'm guessing this light will get slated for not having a dimmer but they are sooooo much cheaper than anything else i can find. i have a 48" tank and just 2xT5's at the moment and am looking at changing up my lights with the view to starting on corals. these lights look good asthetically to me but from a technical point or view what do you guys think

EVO 48" 3W LED by Green Element (2 pack)
The EVO 3W LED fixture provides a high quality, energy efficient light fixture that shimmers though that water. Use the 10000K white LED during the day and the Actinic Blue 460nm LED during the night. The Beamworks LED is a sleek and contemporary light fixture that will make any other aquarium light look boring. Long lasting LEDs with no bulb replacement required.
Extendable brackets - 48" - 52" (120 - 132 cm)
Super energy efficient coral reefs, FOWLR, and freshwater aquarium lighting. No bulb replacement required.
This listing is for two light fixtures.
Features:
Dimensions - 47.75” x 5.00” x 1.00”
Brackets add 0.65" in height
Includes 32 LEDs
8500 Lumen
3W watt LEDs
24x 10000K LEDs
8x Actinic 460nm LEDs
Slim and contemporary light design
2 mode on / off function for day and night use
Extendable bracket - 48"-52" max extend
110V - 220V
Listing includes:
2x 48" 3W LED light fixture
2x Power supply (North America power plug)

Thanks

[Coral Head]

Pros and/or Cons to my thoughts re: lighting.

I have reefbreeder LEDs over my 90 gallon. Obviously too much light at 100% blue/100%white. I have read almost every entry posted over the last 90 days. The consensus seems to recommend percentages less than 100% on both channels.

My ? is this: During the six hour major photo period, what if I set the blue channel at 100% and, using a PAR meter, increase the white channel until I reach my desired PAR levels? It seems I would be maximizing the blue to white ratio.

All comments are welcome.

[vic8361]

Hi,
I just got my photon 48 and would like for the color to be more on the blue side.
I was thinking of swapping out half of the whites with RBs. I'm hoping to get the color I want and have the two channels at the same intensity. What are your thoughts on this.
Thanks,
Vic

[acabgd]

Originally Posted by paulhoff

3W watt LEDs
24x 10000K LEDs
8x Actinic 460nm LEDs

This sounds more like a freshwater light. Most people here are running 2:1 ratio of blue to white, some 3:1, yet your light would have a 3:1 white to blue ratio which is certainly not adequate for corals.

[IOWNYOU]

Originally Posted by acabgd

This sounds more like a freshwater light. Most people here are running 2:1 ratio of blue to white, some 3:1, yet your light would have a 3:1 white to blue ratio which is certainly not adequate for corals.

Can you provide a link where it says you'd need 2:1 blue to white for corals to thrive? And also how blue is 14k white led?

[evolutionZ]

Originally Posted by IOWNYOU

Can you provide a link where it says you'd need 2:1 blue to white for corals to thrive? And also how blue is 14k white led?

There's no need for that link. that lighting with more whites then blue are simply not enough for corals, try it out if you don't believe it. your corals will look horrible.

[Coral Head]

Originally Posted by evolutionz

there's no need for that link. That lighting with more whites then blue are simply not enough for corals, try it out if you don't believe it. Your corals will look horrible.

+1

[Coral Head]

Originally Posted by vic8361

Hi,
I just got my photon 48 and would like for the color to be more on the blue side.
I was thinking of swapping out half of the whites with RBs. I'm hoping to get the color I want and have the two channels at the same intensity. What are your thoughts on this.
Thanks,
Vic

I

I would try to adjust the intensities of each channel. Run your blues at a higher %age than the whites. This would accomplish your desire to have the color more on the blue side w/out swapping out leds.

[vic8361]

Originally Posted by Coral Head

I

I would try to adjust the intensities of each channel. Run your blues at a higher %age than the whites. This would accomplish your desire to have the color more on the blue side w/out swapping out leds.

thanks,
I just tried it and I have to run the blue channel at 100% and my white channel at 7 to 10% to get the color I like, if I run it this way I'll lose a lot of par. I'm going to swap out even more whites to royal blues. I guess I just like my tank on the blue side.
Vic

[Coral Head]

Originally Posted by vic8361

thanks,
I just tried it and I have to run the blue channel at 100% and my white channel at 7 to 10% to get the color I like, if I run it this way I'll lose a lot of par. I'm going to swap out even more whites to royal blues. I guess I just like my tank on the blue side.
Vic

Nothing wrong with liking the blue . . . . just be sure your corals are happy with it too. They will let you know.

[vic8361]

Originally Posted by Coral Head

Nothing wrong with liking the blue . . . . just be sure your corals are happy with it too. They will let you know.

Thanks,
BTW do you live close to Port Saint Lucie? Thats where I live now and would love to trade and get to know some locals.
Just starting up my 90 about a month now.
Vic

[mknightryder]

Originally Posted by Coral Head

Pros and/or Cons to my thoughts re: lighting.

I have reefbreeder LEDs over my 90 gallon. Obviously too much light at 100% blue/100%white. I have read almost every entry posted over the last 90 days. The consensus seems to recommend percentages less than 100% on both channels.

My ? is this: During the six hour major photo period, what if I set the blue channel at 100% and, using a PAR meter, increase the white channel until I reach my desired PAR levels? It seems I would be maximizing the blue to white ratio.

All comments are welcome.

That would probably work, but you'd be stuck with water ever "color" was the end result.
I have two D-120's (same layout as monkiboy's) over my 90g hanging 12.5" off the water. My blues are at 80% & whites are 45%. Anymore and my acros, milli's, & monti's start bleaching up high in the rockwork AND lps down low get mad too. I know all tanks/aquascapes/canopies/open-top are different, so there's no silver bullet to this problem.
I've been slowly playing with the blue/white percentages for several months and this one seems to work best for my tank's inhabitants & looks good to the eye! I was running it at blue 65% & white 60% and my corals were doing great, but my tank was to "white" for my likings. It's just something you have to tweak on!

[ridetheducati]

8 months of growth using $120 D120. Apologize for the crappy cell phone pix.

[mikid]

Originally Posted by ridetheducati

8 months of growth using $120 D120. Apologize for the crappy cell phone pix.

very nice growth there!!!!!!

[mixedreefjunky]

Very nice ridetheducati, is that just with the light or with dosing cal etc?

[Coral Head]

Originally Posted by mknightryder

That would probably work, but you'd be stuck with water ever "color" was the end result.
I have two D-120's (same layout as monkiboy's) over my 90g hanging 12.5" off the water. My blues are at 80% & whites are 45%. Anymore and my acros, milli's, & monti's start bleaching up high in the rockwork AND lps down low get mad too. I know all tanks/aquascapes/canopies/open-top are different, so there's no silver bullet to this problem.
I've been slowly playing with the blue/white percentages for several months and this one seems to work best for my tank's inhabitants & looks good to the eye! I was running it at blue 65% & white 60% and my corals were doing great, but my tank was to "white" for my likings. It's just something you have to tweak on!

Thank you for your comments. They are very helpful. Are you using 90 degree or 120 lenses?

[ridetheducati]

Originally Posted by mixedreefjunky

Very nice ridetheducati, is that just with the light or with dosing cal etc?

Not sure what you are asking. Lighting is only one facet of maintaining a successful reef. Chemistry and water quality play a large role.

[Glazner]

thinking about changing over to LED's on my 280. It's 30 by 30 by 72. Is it possible to light it with LED's without breaking the bank. Currently running two 400MH and 4 VHO's. I don't need max par at the sandbed, fine with zoas and low light corals down there..... but would really like to get away from my two 400 MH and chiller..... suggestions, and what options do I need. lighting storms are cool, but I have a budget...

[Glazner]

also, I have a hood that is about 10" off the water surface. Thanks for your suggestions.

[QPWithCheeseQP]

I bought 2 full spectrum led fixtures from ebay I believe they were d120s but I have to run them at 50% blue and 25% white/full spectrum cause my corals started bleaching. I borrowed a PAR meter from my LFS and at 75% blue and 50% white/full spectrum I was getting 430 PAR on the sand bed 0.o I have them about 6 inches off the water and a 24 inch tall tank. 6 inches from the surface I was reading consistently 700. So theyre definitely powerful. I read somewhere that the PAR of led was significantly different form that of t5 or MH. Anyone know if its a less is more or a more is less kinda deal? Like is a PAR reading of 700 from MH more powerful than 700 of led?

[QPWithCheeseQP]

Originally Posted by Glazner

also, I have a hood that is about 10" off the water surface. Thanks for your suggestions.

On ebay there are full spectrum units for really cheap, the 2 I bought cost 280 with free shipping.

[ERivera65]

Question: I just bought two d120 fixtures and they have vertical power cords. I need to get 90 degree cords so I can close my canopy. I cannot remount the lights any other way. Are those power cords universal or do they have specific volts and amp specs? I believe that with the 90 degree cords they will fit and my canopy should close.

[Glazner]

ok, I had a chance to go back and did a little more reading and looked up some prices. Much better than what I looked at a couple years back..... So it looks like I can actually make the switch without breaking the bank. But still confused on which unit and what color combination. I read one unit has one power cord(gotta like that) Also think I would prefer the cord comming out of the side. I am thinking 3 d120's. I like this idea as I have a center brace and this would allow me to turn the middle unit up a little more to compensate for the brace. With them placed in the canopy about 10" over the water, what lens do you recommend and can you please give me the layout you would recommend. And who has provide good customer support. Thanks again.

[QPWithCheeseQP]

Originally Posted by Glazner

ok, I had a chance to go back and did a little more reading and looked up some prices. Much better than what I looked at a couple years back..... So it looks like I can actually make the switch without breaking the bank. But still confused on which unit and what color combination. I read one unit has one power cord(gotta like that) Also think I would prefer the cord comming out of the side. I am thinking 3 d120's. I like this idea as I have a center brace and this would allow me to turn the middle unit up a little more to compensate for the brace. With them placed in the canopy about 10" over the water, what lens do you recommend and can you please give me the layout you would recommend. And who has provide good customer support. Thanks again.

The d120s have angled cords, and 90° optics is probably a safe bet. The two I have are sideways over a 48 in tank with good coverage.

[Coral Head]

Originally Posted by QPWithCheeseQP

I bought 2 full spectrum led fixtures from ebay I believe they were d120s but I have to run them at 50% blue and 25% white/full spectrum cause my corals started bleaching. I borrowed a PAR meter from my LFS and at 75% blue and 50% white/full spectrum I was getting 430 PAR on the sand bed 0.o I have them about 6 inches off the water and a 24 inch tall tank. 6 inches from the surface I was reading consistently 700. So theyre definitely powerful. I read somewhere that the PAR of led was significantly different form that of t5 or MH. Anyone know if its a less is more or a more is less kinda deal? Like is a PAR reading of 700 from MH more powerful than 700 of led?

PAR is PAR regardless of the source. I have read that a PAR meter may indicate 10% less than actual PAR on LEDs.

Just power them down until you get the desired levels.