Octopus Skimmer Mods - Page 20

HBtank · 05/09/2007, 10:52 PM

Would an Ocean Runner 2700 fit on the Octopus 150 recirc?

HBtank · 05/10/2007, 12:17 AM

I checked around and it seems they are the same when it comes to size/attachments....

But are they exactly the same? It seems that when I looka round the OR 2700 is rated higher and might have some other differences....?

Mr Bojangles · 05/10/2007, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by markywmson
it's a NW150 i believe. my roommate has one too, and it's definitely not 1.5" plumbing. i tried mine (NW200) without cutting the gray pipe, but it was way too high. i recommend cutting the pipe down and leaving like 4 inches past the bend. i used a rubber boot that was a bit small, and heated the crap out of it in boiling water... made it fit over the gray pipe and over the 1.5" plumbing on mine. might work for you with 1" stuff instead. good luck!

it is not 1.5, but if you use a sander and sand down a 1.5 coupler it fits like a glove. I didn't have to cut down any part of the original riser tube.

hounddog01 · 05/10/2007, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by carlos_fb
I used 1" pvc to build it. I was trying to avoid cutting the grey pipe. Is it really necessary?

The mod kit that Marine solutions sells is a 1.5 inch valve. You need that valve to run this correctly. Cuting down the pipe is only going to lower the same restriction and not create any additional water flow. Besides you can only go down as low as your water level.

HBtank · 05/10/2007, 09:56 AM

Does anyone know if the Octopus 2000 and OceanRunner 2700 are the exact same pumps or if one is better?

davidabrown66 · 05/10/2007, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by davidabrown66
Well, I got my Dwyer meter delivered yesterday and took some readings.

My modified venturi which opened up the waterway through the venturi with a drilled out venturi to 1/4" actually performed as I expected...worse than the stock venturi that I have with a slightly reamed out venturi on both sides. Here's the numbers:

(A) Stock Venturi no Enkamat: ? SCFH ( to be tested when I receive new impellar and venturi).

(B) Venturi with some reaming of the venturi airway on both sides of the 90 while retaining the original nipple, no reaming of the venturi waterway and no Enkamat: 9 SCFH

(C) Venturi with reamed out waterway with 5/8" spade bit, no nipple and 1/4" drilled hole straight in (no 90), 1/4" tubing trimmed for air input, water and air tight, no enkamat: 7 SCFH

Option B with 2 layers of Enkamat, 10 Lb fishing line: 15 SCFH
Option C with 2 layers of Enkamat, 10 Lb fishing line: 12 SCFH

Well, I'm getting closer, I had to redo the two layers of mesh b/c they were'nt tight enough and were causing some heat. I also drilled out the (C) option a little more so now I have an ID at 5/16" of an inch which improved the the air draw from 12 to 18 SCFH. I've got another pump on order, so now I can start changing the impellar NW and add another layer of Enkamat see what happens, and what the differences are between (b) and (c).

I'm going for 34 SCFH which is what a stock ER RC-180 is rated, but I won't be able to match their pump wattage of 45Watts, but hey...I only paid $55.00 for my pump, and the whole pkg was less than 1/2 of what a ER would cost. I may have to go with 4 layers of mat and do some volute work, and maybe even change the out the stock venturi to do it, but I can see that the mods work, and that make me

Mike de Leon · 05/10/2007, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by carlos_fb
I tried posting this in the other Octopus thread but I didn't get any help.

I did the gate valve in my NW-150 and it's now it's really hard to control the level in the skimmer. Even with the gate valve opened all the way, the skimmer overflows all the time.

Did I do something wrong? Is there anything I can do to fix it?

Your easiest solution is to lower your water level....Try it, it should work.
The trick with consistency in skimming is constant water level. You need a baffle to keep your level constant.

Mike de Leon · 05/10/2007, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by carlos_fb
I tried posting this in the other Octopus thread but I didn't get any help.

I did the gate valve in my NW-150 and it's now it's really hard to control the level in the skimmer. Even with the gate valve opened all the way, the skimmer overflows all the time.

Did I do something wrong? Is there anything I can do to fix it?

Your easiest solution is to lower your water level....Try it, it should work.
The trick with consistency in skimming is constant water level. You need a baffle to keep your level constant.

GobyJohnKenobi · 05/10/2007, 08:46 PM

I'm new to the world of skimmer mods, but after reading this thread I bought a 110 recirc and decided to give a few mods a try.

So far I have reamed out both the hose barb and the 90 degree section of the air supply to the venturi with a 1/8" bit. I notched the gasket with the same 1/8" bit where it was covering the air hole and glued it into place. I ported the pump output by easing over the shoulders and smoothing all the edges.

The final mod I want to try is the mesh wheel. I finally have the Enkamat. I'd really like to do this right the first time, so I'm wondering what the best configuration would be for my skimmer.

I'm thinking of removing the first needle wheel entirely, leaving the needles on the second wheel, and attaching two layers of Enkamat with heavy fishing line. I also plan on putting a needle valve on the air intake line to dial in the air flow.

Does this sound reasonable for this model?

I'm thinking that two layers is all this body and pump could reasonably handle without further mods, and that removing the first needle wheel should cut the weight of the impeller down to where it should start reliably.

Have I understood the information so far?
Would these mods allow it to handle a 70 gallon tank?

I would also like to gravity feed the skimmer from a line T'd off the overflow from the tank. Any pointers there greatly appreciated!

davidabrown66 · 05/11/2007, 10:38 AM

So did some more modding last night. I'm still using the reamed venturi waterway to 5/8" with the 3/8" air draw. I cut off the top set of NW and added a 3rd layer of Enkamat. I also reamed out the 90 degree pvc on the output of the pump to the body since there was a restriction there on one end, and did a little grinding on the volute. I'm now up to about 28 SCFH, and I'm starting to get good dry foam.

I think I'll have to do some venturi work to get this thing to pull 35 SCFH. It appears that it matters where the venturi valve is placed in relation to the restriction and output of the venturi to the input of the pump. Should the air introduction be at the restriction for better vaccum or just after the transition from restriction to opening where the water goes from low pressure (excellerated) back to normal pressure just before entering the input of the NW pump?

Traditional venturi's work like the latter, but it would appear that aspirating NW skimmer need the former. I wish I had more venturi's to test with. I've ordered some metric to standard plumbing fittings to maybe put together my own venturi with 1" fittings that convert to metric on the other end so I can still use the connections that came with the pump.

I will try reaming out just one side (pump input side) of the stock venturi to 5/8" so it opens up just prior to the 3/8" air input, and see If I can get more vaccum.

At this point, I'm happy with the performance, but would'nt buy one of these to run it without mods. I think others have posted 5-7 SCFH for a DNW-200 before mods right out of the box, and it really doesn't start producing anything until you reach at least 15 SCFH, and it just gets better from there and should be able to handle 1200 LPH or roughly 43 SCFH with an 8"w x 29"h skimmer body like a ER.

davidabrown66 · 05/11/2007, 10:54 AM

I would get an dwyer air meter first so you can test the changes you're making, and make small changes to see what works best for you.

So far, the changes you've made should make a big difference, I did the same to mine at first with a 1/8" bit as well. You can keep the original two sets of pins and use two layers of Enkamat, or cut off the top set of pins and use three layers without running into pump startup problems.

Cut the enkamat a little larger than your impellar at first, cut out the middle section so it looks like a donut, use 10 LB test fishing line, weave up and down thru the nw securing the enkamat as tightly as possible, I start close to the impellar body and really try to make it tight, and after the first time around the impellare I move to the outer side of the impeller for a second time around, and a little less tight so it's kinda bushy at the end. Then, trim the enkamat so it doesn't extend beyond the first set of nw's and doesn't hang up on any of the plastic pump parts. I would set the impellar back in the house and just try turning it a little with you fingers to see if it's going to bind on the impeller housing at all. You should also look to make sure that it doesn't extend above where the center of the impeller extends also.

You're ready to test it out. You may need to go to a larger ID for your air draw to really get the advantages of the enkamat mod. but test it with your air meter, and for that skimmer, you should be able to handle low to mid 20's for SCFH if I remember correctly which is more than enough for a 70 gal tank.

Quote:

Originally posted by GobyJohnKenobi
I'm new to the world of skimmer mods, but after reading this thread I bought a 110 recirc and decided to give a few mods a try.

So far I have reamed out both the hose barb and the 90 degree section of the air supply to the venturi with a 1/8" bit. I notched the gasket with the same 1/8" bit where it was covering the air hole and glued it into place. I ported the pump output by easing over the shoulders and smoothing all the edges.

The final mod I want to try is the mesh wheel. I finally have the Enkamat. I'd really like to do this right the first time, so I'm wondering what the best configuration would be for my skimmer.

I'm thinking of removing the first needle wheel entirely, leaving the needles on the second wheel, and attaching two layers of Enkamat with heavy fishing line. I also plan on putting a needle valve on the air intake line to dial in the air flow.

Does this sound reasonable for this model?

I'm thinking that two layers is all this body and pump could reasonably handle without further mods, and that removing the first needle wheel should cut the weight of the impeller down to where it should start reliably.

Have I understood the information so far?
Would these mods allow it to handle a 70 gallon tank?

I would also like to gravity feed the skimmer from a line T'd off the overflow from the tank. Any pointers there greatly appreciated!

squin · 05/11/2007, 11:05 AM

davidabrown66,

Did you happen to pick up a Kill-A-Watt? I'm interested to see what kind of wattge readings you are getting? I have failed to produce the kind of results that kroe and others have achieved of higher airflow and acceptable wattage? I know its doable. I just haven't found that happy place. Still waiting on a replacement venturi before I do major surgery to my existing venturi.

To date my best results are with the airway slightly enlarged and not drilled straight through. Also opened up the pump discharge elbow and polished the volute. This gets me a steady 15 SCFH at 100 watts. I can drop my mesh modded impellar in and get 23 SCFH, but wattage jumps to 126 W. My tank is lightly loaded so I run the water level pretty high in the skimmer at the base of the neck and I get a nice dark skimmate.

davidabrown66 · 05/11/2007, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by squin
davidabrown66,

Did you happen to pick up a Kill-A-Watt? I'm interested to see what kind of wattge readings you are getting? I have failed to produce the kind of results that kroe and others have achieved of higher airflow and acceptable wattage? I know its doable. I just haven't found that happy place. Still waiting on a replacement venturi before I do major surgery to my existing venturi.

To date my best results are with the airway slightly enlarged and not drilled straight through. Also opened up the pump discharge elbow and polished the volute. This gets me a steady 15 SCFH at 100 watts. I can drop my mesh modded impellar in and get 23 SCFH, but wattage jumps to 126 W. My tank is lightly loaded so I run the water level pretty high in the skimmer at the base of the neck and I get a nice dark skimmate.

Yep, I got one coming on the 15th. I wasn't sure if anyone out there was following along. I was starting to think I was talking too myself. I will post wattage for both venturi styles, and any changes moving forward.

Thanks Squin

GobyJohnKenobi · 05/11/2007, 06:50 PM

Thank you so much for the advice, David!

So the best way to go is to leave the impeller stock and tie the two layers of Enkamat on top? I can do that. I'm thinking of possibly removing all but the first and last rows of needles to help contain the Enkamat.

I'm looking for more rock solid reliability than rip-roaring performance here. And I agree that an air meter is probably a must have.

Nah. You aren't alone here. It just takes a week to read the octopus threads to catch up with ya. LOL
Thanks again.

kroe · 05/11/2007, 10:42 PM

I wouldn't leave both wheels... even removing the pins you will get higher wattage than you want.

Personally I like to remove the first needle wheel, cut a ring out of a bucket lid the same size as the NW and drill holes to zip tie the mesh to. Drill a hole in the center so it slides onto the impeller, put a couple drops of CA, and slide one of the NWs with all the protruding parts broken off (so it's just a retaining ring) right up to the bucket lid to keep it in place. Wait for the glue to dry and put your mesh on.

Low wattage, lots of air, and not any less reliable than stock.

carlos_fb · 05/12/2007, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by hounddog01
The mod kit that Marine solutions sells is a 1.5 inch valve. You need that valve to run this correctly. Cuting down the pipe is only going to lower the same restriction and not create any additional water flow. Besides you can only go down as low as your water level.

That's what I thought the problem was, I will get the parts and build it again.

carlos_fb · 05/12/2007, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mike de Leon
Your easiest solution is to lower your water level....Try it, it should work.
The trick with consistency in skimming is constant water level. You need a baffle to keep your level constant.

I did try lowering the water level and I do have baffles in my sump that keep the level constant.

Thanks a lot for your help guys! hopefully I'll get it right this time

carlos_fb · 05/12/2007, 10:46 AM

Please delete!

jmbecker · 05/12/2007, 10:50 AM

does any one have pics of the Gutter Guard mod or mesh mod and how it is done

carlos_fb · 05/12/2007, 01:54 PM

I got the 1.5" parts and they are huge! there is no way that will fit the pipe in the skimmer. I'm thinking it might be 1 1/4" which is the size of the original drain pipe of the skimmer.

What do you guys think?

medic29 · 05/12/2007, 03:03 PM

What I did....for the NW200, is pull the outer slip pipe off the skimmer and used a black pvc/rubber coupler 1 1/2" to slip over that and tightened it with a couple of zip ties, then placed 1 1/2" pvc in the other end of the coupler, then used a 1 1/2" tee and finished plumbing it with pvc to the gate valve, etc.

It looks like it should be 1 1/4, but it is metric and it is bigger than 1 1/4, but a bit smaller than 1 1/2".

HTH

GobyJohnKenobi · 05/12/2007, 06:48 PM

Kroe,

That sounds like a very unique mod - the disc mesh wheel. Ingenious.

I would think that you should leave at least three needles on the impeller to ziptie the plastic disc to for stability and longevity. Or are you sandwiching the disk between the two remaining hubs with their needles removed and using cyanoacrylate to hold the three pieces together- second hub and shaft to disc to first hub?

I gotta see a pic of this. I'm liking the idea.

GobyJohnKenobi · 05/12/2007, 07:02 PM

jmbecker,

There are some great pics of the mod further back in this thread along with a great deal of info. And Enkamat definitely seems to be the way to go.

I kinda suspect that you've found them already.

BTW- I really like 36x24 tanks. Custom?

Maeda · 05/13/2007, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Maeda
I'm having alot of trouble getting my skimmate IN my cup.
Anyone know how to fix this? I get tons and tons of nastiness, just all in the neck. Raising the water level gets me urine colored skimmate and the same amount of nasty in the neck...... -_-
one more thing...

Just out of curiousity, and owning and tinkering with my NW150 for months now...

Who's got the bragging rights for highest SCFH on a NW150?

Nobody?

davidabrown66 · 05/14/2007, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Maeda
Nobody?

I think this is common with these skimmers. I get the same.

05/09/2007, 10:52 PM	#476
HBtank Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Huntington Beach, CA Posts: 2,957	Would an Ocean Runner 2700 fit on the Octopus 150 recirc? __________________ 80g Aiptasia dominated reef tank.. with fish and now a bunch of berghia! Current Tank Info: 80g tank, re-starting a reef after a zoanthid nudibranch plauge, followed by months of steady and unstoppable STN/RTN, crashed; stayed FOWLR for a couple years, currently an aiptasia dominated reef tank with fishies and BERGHIA

05/10/2007, 12:17 AM	#477
HBtank Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Huntington Beach, CA Posts: 2,957	I checked around and it seems they are the same when it comes to size/attachments.... But are they exactly the same? It seems that when I looka round the OR 2700 is rated higher and might have some other differences....? __________________ 80g Aiptasia dominated reef tank.. with fish and now a bunch of berghia! Current Tank Info: 80g tank, re-starting a reef after a zoanthid nudibranch plauge, followed by months of steady and unstoppable STN/RTN, crashed; stayed FOWLR for a couple years, currently an aiptasia dominated reef tank with fishies and BERGHIA

05/10/2007, 09:56 AM	#480
HBtank Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Huntington Beach, CA Posts: 2,957	Does anyone know if the Octopus 2000 and OceanRunner 2700 are the exact same pumps or if one is better? __________________ 80g Aiptasia dominated reef tank.. with fish and now a bunch of berghia! Current Tank Info: 80g tank, re-starting a reef after a zoanthid nudibranch plauge, followed by months of steady and unstoppable STN/RTN, crashed; stayed FOWLR for a couple years, currently an aiptasia dominated reef tank with fishies and BERGHIA

05/12/2007, 03:03 PM	#496
medic29 Premium Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Pesotum, IL Posts: 2,478	What I did....for the NW200, is pull the outer slip pipe off the skimmer and used a black pvc/rubber coupler 1 1/2" to slip over that and tightened it with a couple of zip ties, then placed 1 1/2" pvc in the other end of the coupler, then used a 1 1/2" tee and finished plumbing it with pvc to the gate valve, etc. It looks like it should be 1 1/4, but it is metric and it is bigger than 1 1/4, but a bit smaller than 1 1/2". HTH __________________ Rick Current Tank Info: 20 gal display w/10 gal sump.

05/10/2007, 08:46 PM	#484
GobyJohnKenobi Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Atlanta Posts: 413	I'm new to the world of skimmer mods, but after reading this thread I bought a 110 recirc and decided to give a few mods a try. So far I have reamed out both the hose barb and the 90 degree section of the air supply to the venturi with a 1/8" bit. I notched the gasket with the same 1/8" bit where it was covering the air hole and glued it into place. I ported the pump output by easing over the shoulders and smoothing all the edges. The final mod I want to try is the mesh wheel. I finally have the Enkamat. I'd really like to do this right the first time, so I'm wondering what the best configuration would be for my skimmer. I'm thinking of removing the first needle wheel entirely, leaving the needles on the second wheel, and attaching two layers of Enkamat with heavy fishing line. I also plan on putting a needle valve on the air intake line to dial in the air flow. Does this sound reasonable for this model? I'm thinking that two layers is all this body and pump could reasonably handle without further mods, and that removing the first needle wheel should cut the weight of the impeller down to where it should start reliably. Have I understood the information so far? Would these mods allow it to handle a 70 gallon tank? I would also like to gravity feed the skimmer from a line T'd off the overflow from the tank. Any pointers there greatly appreciated!

05/11/2007, 10:38 AM	#485
davidabrown66 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 231	So did some more modding last night. I'm still using the reamed venturi waterway to 5/8" with the 3/8" air draw. I cut off the top set of NW and added a 3rd layer of Enkamat. I also reamed out the 90 degree pvc on the output of the pump to the body since there was a restriction there on one end, and did a little grinding on the volute. I'm now up to about 28 SCFH, and I'm starting to get good dry foam. I think I'll have to do some venturi work to get this thing to pull 35 SCFH. It appears that it matters where the venturi valve is placed in relation to the restriction and output of the venturi to the input of the pump. Should the air introduction be at the restriction for better vaccum or just after the transition from restriction to opening where the water goes from low pressure (excellerated) back to normal pressure just before entering the input of the NW pump? Traditional venturi's work like the latter, but it would appear that aspirating NW skimmer need the former. I wish I had more venturi's to test with. I've ordered some metric to standard plumbing fittings to maybe put together my own venturi with 1" fittings that convert to metric on the other end so I can still use the connections that came with the pump. I will try reaming out just one side (pump input side) of the stock venturi to 5/8" so it opens up just prior to the 3/8" air input, and see If I can get more vaccum. At this point, I'm happy with the performance, but would'nt buy one of these to run it without mods. I think others have posted 5-7 SCFH for a DNW-200 before mods right out of the box, and it really doesn't start producing anything until you reach at least 15 SCFH, and it just gets better from there and should be able to handle 1200 LPH or roughly 43 SCFH with an 8"w x 29"h skimmer body like a ER.

05/11/2007, 11:05 AM	#487
squin Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: St. Petersburg, FL Posts: 143	davidabrown66, Did you happen to pick up a Kill-A-Watt? I'm interested to see what kind of wattge readings you are getting? I have failed to produce the kind of results that kroe and others have achieved of higher airflow and acceptable wattage? I know its doable. I just haven't found that happy place. Still waiting on a replacement venturi before I do major surgery to my existing venturi. To date my best results are with the airway slightly enlarged and not drilled straight through. Also opened up the pump discharge elbow and polished the volute. This gets me a steady 15 SCFH at 100 watts. I can drop my mesh modded impellar in and get 23 SCFH, but wattage jumps to 126 W. My tank is lightly loaded so I run the water level pretty high in the skimmer at the base of the neck and I get a nice dark skimmate.

05/11/2007, 06:50 PM	#489
GobyJohnKenobi Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Atlanta Posts: 413	Thank you so much for the advice, David! So the best way to go is to leave the impeller stock and tie the two layers of Enkamat on top? I can do that. I'm thinking of possibly removing all but the first and last rows of needles to help contain the Enkamat. I'm looking for more rock solid reliability than rip-roaring performance here. And I agree that an air meter is probably a must have. Nah. You aren't alone here. It just takes a week to read the octopus threads to catch up with ya. LOL Thanks again.

05/11/2007, 10:42 PM	#490
kroe Premium Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Wallingford, CT Posts: 1,211	I wouldn't leave both wheels... even removing the pins you will get higher wattage than you want. Personally I like to remove the first needle wheel, cut a ring out of a bucket lid the same size as the NW and drill holes to zip tie the mesh to. Drill a hole in the center so it slides onto the impeller, put a couple drops of CA, and slide one of the NWs with all the protruding parts broken off (so it's just a retaining ring) right up to the bucket lid to keep it in place. Wait for the glue to dry and put your mesh on. Low wattage, lots of air, and not any less reliable than stock.

05/12/2007, 10:46 AM	#493
carlos_fb Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Michigan Posts: 879	Please delete!

05/12/2007, 10:50 AM	#494
jmbecker Registered Member Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 28	does any one have pics of the Gutter Guard mod or mesh mod and how it is done

05/12/2007, 01:54 PM	#495
carlos_fb Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Michigan Posts: 879	I got the 1.5" parts and they are huge! there is no way that will fit the pipe in the skimmer. I'm thinking it might be 1 1/4" which is the size of the original drain pipe of the skimmer. What do you guys think?

05/12/2007, 06:48 PM	#497
GobyJohnKenobi Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Atlanta Posts: 413	Kroe, That sounds like a very unique mod - the disc mesh wheel. Ingenious. I would think that you should leave at least three needles on the impeller to ziptie the plastic disc to for stability and longevity. Or are you sandwiching the disk between the two remaining hubs with their needles removed and using cyanoacrylate to hold the three pieces together- second hub and shaft to disc to first hub? I gotta see a pic of this. I'm liking the idea.

05/12/2007, 07:02 PM	#498
GobyJohnKenobi Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Atlanta Posts: 413	jmbecker, There are some great pics of the mod further back in this thread along with a great deal of info. And Enkamat definitely seems to be the way to go. I kinda suspect that you've found them already. BTW- I really like 36x24 tanks. Custom?